Push-Button on Trunk Lid Lip for Closing Trunk Does Not Work

[buckeyecam]

I have read and searched all the trunk related issues here with the Phaeton....and hate to add yet another....
I have a 2004 Phaeton W12 - Four Seater with 65K miles - all maintenance current

The trunk has always operated normally - then at one point the interior "close" switch didn't respond after 1 press. After 3 presses it responded but then the trunk become out of sync and wouldn't open properly.
When I activated either the key fob or the drivers door switch the trunk would unlatch and latch about 3 times but would never operate the hyrdo assist. The trunk was technically opened by an 1/4" but you had to lift it from that "almost closed" position to fully open.
Once I got the trunk opened fully I tried the sync trick with no luck (tried it several times actually).

Yesterday the micro badge switch started working and opened the trunk perfectly. Unfortunately the interior close switch does not respond at all now. You can get the trunk to close by pressing the micro badge switch though.
So as it is right now:
It will open with the key fob, driver's door switch and the micro badge switch. However, it will only close by pressing the micro badge switch. (not good since my wife cannot reach the micro switch).
Any thoughts?

[Zaphh]

Get taller wife ?

[buckeyecam]

It is a possibility to take that route.
Although it would probably be cheaper to fix the switch.

[PanEuropean]

Any thoughts?

First take a close look at the pushbutton on the edge of the trunk lid and see if it is internally lit. It should be internally lit right after the trunk lid is opened (it might 'go to sleep' if the trunk lid is left open longer than 10 or 15 minutes).

If it is internally lit and does not respond to being pressed for 1 second or so, then the problem is most likely with your trunk lid controller. There is a post in the Forum FAQ/TOC that illustrates replacement of the controller.

If it is not internally lit, the problem is most likely a wiring disconnect somewhere, either at the connection to the switch or perhaps damage to the wiring harness that enters the trunk lid. Have a look at the post discussing 'Retrofitting a Warning Triangle' and the post discussing damage to the trunk lid wiring harness (both are in the Forum FAQ/TOC) for more information about those components.

Michael

[buckeyecam]

The switch is lit..
I have previously read the post on how to replace that controller.

[PanEuropean]

Have a look at this discussion, you might get some troubleshooting ideas from it:

Microswitch behind Trunk Lid Logo (for opening power trunk) does not work.

Apropos of the switch being illuminated but the trunk lid not closing, I suggest you troubleshoot things in the following manner:

1) Press gently but firmly on the push-button for 1 second, see if that makes a difference.

2) Run a diagnostic scan on controller 46 and see if any faults are reported. The J605 is a slave of controller 46.

3) If no faults, check the switch itself for correct function using a multimeter. Disassembly instructions for getting access to the switch can be found in the "Retrofitting a Warning Triangle" post, which is listed in the FAQ/TOC.

4) Make sure that the connectors within the trunk lid have been put in the proper slots - there is a post in the FAQ/TOC describing a problem by which 2 apparently identical connectors get swapped around, have a look in the FAQ/TOC for any links there that include the word 'trunk', and you will probably find the post describing the connector reversal problem.

5) If the switch checks out OK, then see if the same multimeter check proves satisfactory operation further down the wiring harness (probably at the J605 controller connector - have a look at the attached wiring diagram to determine exactly where to look). The goal here is to identify or rule out any wiring problems in the trunk lid wiring harness.

Michael

[buckeyecam]

I will try the switch again holding for at least 1 sec.
I may try and re sync 1 more time since I did not try it again after the micro switch starting working for some reason.

I am waiting on my rosstech to arrive so I can scan to see what codes (if any) are present before I go much further than pressing buttons....

[PanEuropean]

Here is the wiring diagram I referred to in the post directly above.

[PanEuropean]

Have a very careful look at this post: Microswitch behind Trunk Lid Logo (for opening power trunk) does not work.

I realize that it does not address your problem (which is with the square switch on the lip of the trunk lid, not the microswitch behind the logo), and I regret that there are a few photos missing that I don't have the originals of, but, the story told there might be of use to you.

Michael

[buckeyecam]

Update....
Nothing seems to make a difference EXCEPT if you rub the switch from left to right it works every time

[Zaphh]

It then seems that you could try to get another switch (maybe from a salvage yard) rather than finding a taller wife. The switch is easy to get to and to remove. Just grab the wide plastic trim that runs across the boot lid and pull it frankly.

P.

[buckeyecam]

Ordered a replacement switch today.
With any luck that will solve the mystery

[PanEuropean]

Ordered a replacement switch today.

Hi Again:

That sounds like a good troubleshooting decision. I'm happy to hear that you seem to have nailed down the switch itself as the cause of the problem. Even if the switch costs you $100, that will be a heck of a lot cheaper than having to replace the controller (J605), which is what I was a little bit worried might have been the cause of the problem.

When you get the switch, have a look at the post "How to Retrofit a Warning Triangle" (it is in the FAQ list), that contains all the instructions for getting access to replace that switch. In the meantime, try and pick up a "trim tool" (sometimes called a 'bone') to use to remove the trunk lid liner. The trim tool is kind of essential if you want to remove the liner without scratching the paint on the inside of the trunk lid. There is a post in the FAQ that provides more details about trim tools.

One request from all of us: We try to work on a first name basis here in the Phaeton forum, simply because doing that tends to keep the tone of the forum more friendly. So, if you could sign your posts with your first name, that would be much appreciated, it would help set an example for newcomers.

Michael

[PanEuropean]

Here's a picture showing what a trim tool looks like.

[buckeyecam]

The switch cost $46 US delivered so I figure for that amount I would just start there.
I have already removed the switch to see if there was anything gross and obvious wrong with the switch. Nothing noticeably wrong so I just ordered a replacement.

Sean

[PanEuropean]

The switch cost $46 US delivered...

Hi Sean:

Wow, that is a pleasant surprise! I thought it would be closer to $100.

Michael

[buckeyecam]

I thought so as well.

Sean