TT-RS Brakes & Pads

[J662]

Looking for some insight on a good brake upgrade. Something good for both street and a little bit track.

Would changing pads, lines and fluid be considered a decent upgrade/mod?

I know there have been some posts somewhere but...

At least the car doesn't have brake dust issues. Ha.



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[- Jeremy -]

I bought some 600+ degree fluid and a bleeding kit from ECS Tuning before the car arrived. I've been waiting for the weather to warm up a little before performing the bleed so I can't comment on the effectiveness yet. I don't mind the stock pads so I'm going to wait for them to wear down a bit before replacing them. However, they're the same as the 2010 STI so they're easy to find online in any compound you desire. The pedal feel is slightly mushy so I'm hoping that the fluid change will help, but it would likely take some new lines to firm it up. I just don't know if I'm willing to make that swap.

I'm definitely planning on buying this rear rotor upgrade kit to increase the size by 20mm and get drilled rotors to match the front. I just need to get off my lazy ass and place the order.

http://racing-shop-germany.com/K-Spo...inten-330x22mm

- Jeremy -

[DesertTTRS]

I installed stock size rear drilled rotors,removed backing plates,installed Pagid RS4-2 Blue compound pads - waiting for front stainless lines (have rears) to flush and fill w/ Motul.

[J662]

I installed stock size rear drilled rotors,removed backing plates,installed Pagid RS4-2 Blue compound pads - waiting for front stainless lines (have rears) to flush and fill w/ Motul.

Where can I find those stainless lines and pads? Did you buy them online? Thanks!


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[DesertTTRS]

Pads from LPI Racing Livermore CA Phone (925)292-5522 P/N Pagid 2487_RS4-2_1690 for Subaru STI. Rear rotors and stainless rear lines from Twin T Development Las Vegas (702)917-5055

[pal]

J662- are you hoping to improve any particular aspect the brakes? Pedal feel? Stopping distance? Noise? Fade resistance?

Fluid - Motul RBF 600 or Brembo LCF 600+ are great racing fluids that will help with reducing fade when repeatedly pushed e.g., on a track. But a racing fluid also tends to be more hygroscopic and should be flushed more frequently.

Pads- lots of choices here. If you say what you are looking for, people can offer you options based on experience or pad specs.

Lines- stainless lines are a great upgrade for consistent pedal feel as they dont expand and contract like rubber lines.

Rotors - Weight is a consideration as is venting style. I tend to stay away from aftermarket drilled rotors as if not drilled right and chamfered properly, they will start to crack at the holes. Seen it many times on track.

Calipers - Piston size front to rear to get the right bias and cooling capacity are important here. I have a square StopTech BBK at all 4 corners of my M Coupe and it has reduced pedal pressure needed to stop the car, stopping distances are shorter as I can brake deeper and later and it preserbes the fluid well that I can do 2-3 track days before a flush/bleed.

[DrDomm]

I suggest the Stoptech BBK...doubt you "need" it on the rear, though. SS lines. Motul 600. Performance Friction 01 pads.

That combo worked great on my TTS.

[996cab]

J662,
I will do the following...

Fluid - ENDLESS RF650
This is sold in 0.5ltr bottles and you will need 5x to fully and 'properly' flush out old for this. The key advantage with this fluid I found is that it is stable and progressive in use. Most other fluids are digressive in use.

The bleeding cycle is reportedly longer in comparison to the competition. I have just stated using ENDLESS Rf650 and can report that it 'feels' so re-assuring when braking VERY late on track...for example braking after the pit lane straight at Brands Hatch...the track drops down at the end of the straight and I used to hate that particular straight...no more with the ENDLESS RF650 fluid...I was giggling each time I braked later with total confidence...!

Pads
For the fronts, I will take a look at Performance Friction (PFC) Z-rated pads - reportedly excellent for streets and good enough for light track use. I have the PFC01 which is too powerful for me even on track using street tyres so I will be giving the PFC08 compound a try next. They are reportedly just as good as the PFC01, not as powerful though however produces less heat and dust.

For the rears, I went for Pagid RS-19 and would advise this to anyone who wants a stable braking. It essentially shift braking bias to the rear a little - which is a good thing on the TT-RS as it stops the rears from wobbling.

Lines
Stainless lines are a no brainer if you want to get a consistant feel...that is what I found anyway.

Rotors
I would still keep OEM all round and try the above fluid, steel lines and pad changes first.

Calipers
I would still keep OEM all round and try the above fluid, steel lines and pad changes first.

WB

[J662]

J662,
I will do the following...

Fluid - ENDLESS RF650
This is sold in 0.5ltr bottles and you will need 5x to fully and 'properly' flush out old for this. The key advantage with this fluid I found is that it is stable and progressive in use. Most other fluids are digressive in use.

The bleeding cycle is reportedly longer in comparison to the competition. I have just stated using ENDLESS Rf650 and can report that it 'feels' so re-assuring when braking VERY late on track...for example braking after the pit lane straight at Brands Hatch...the track drops down at the end of the straight and I used to hate that particular straight...no more with the ENDLESS RF650 fluid...I was giggling each time I braked later with total confidence...!

Pads
For the fronts, I will take a look at Performance Friction (PFC) Z-rated pads - reportedly excellent for streets and good enough for light track use. I have the PFC01 which is too powerful for me even on track using street tyres so I will be giving the PFC08 compound a try next. They are reportedly just as good as the PFC01, not as powerful thoigh however produces less heat and dust.

For the rears, I went for Pagid RS-19 and would advise this to anyone who wants a stable braking. It essentially shoft braking bias to the rear a little - which is a good thing on the TT-RS as it stops the rears from wobbling.

Lines
Stainless lines are a no brainer if you want to get a consistant feel...that is what I found anyway.

Rotors
I would still keep OEM all round and try the above fluid, steel lines and pad changes first.

Calipers
I would still keep OEM all round and try the above fluid, steel lines and pad changes first.

WB

Appreciate the info. That's exactly the solution I'm looking for.


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[R5T]

Looking for some insight on a good brake upgrade. Something good for both street and a little bit track.

[J662]

Those are killer. Where can you buy that setup?


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[JohnLZ7W]

Those are killer. Where can you buy that setup?


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OEMPlus carries them, prices are around $20k for the setup.

http://www.oemplus.com/brake-convers...mic-p-497.html

[J662]

OEMPlus carries them, prices are around $20k for the setup.

http://www.oemplus.com/brake-convers...mic-p-497.html

Omg 20k!


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[Black BeauTTy]

Omg 20k!


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Let's organize a group buy and get 10% off, that'll do it!

[joshsmith]

Those are killer. Where can you buy that setup?


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Looks unreal!! Wish we could've gotten that as an option over here in Aus - I'd have gotten it for way cheaper!!

OEMPlus carries them, prices are around $20k for the setup.

http://www.oemplus.com/brake-convers...mic-p-497.html

Even the option for the RS5 carbon ceramics are about 15k... Not sure why this is 20k!!! That is HUGE money but for 20k I'd be doing a lot of other things including upgrading pads/rotors and have change!!

[J662]

Let's organize a group buy and get 10% off, that'll do it!

Haha. That would then make it an affordable 19,800. What a bargain.


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[Black BeauTTy]

Haha. That would then make it an affordable 19,800. What a bargain.


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LOL, you're off a decimal place...it'll be a "reasonable" 18K! Who's in?

[J662]

LOL, you're off a decimal place...it'll be a "reasonable" 18K! Who's in?

Oh oops. 18k is much better! I'm in.


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[joshsmith]

What do you guys think of the standard braking package? I think it's very powerful but something lacks.. It's not as bity as I like and it lacks some serious feel through my pedal..

Does anyone else feel this?

Surprisingly these pads don't appear to wear down much if at all! (I drive her hard hehe).

I've been recommended the Ferodo RS2500 (I think that's what it's called - can't remember) haha.

Would changing the pads make such a difference to the feel in the pedal, braking power and bityness?

[- Jeremy -]

What do you guys think of the standard braking package? I think it's very powerful but something lacks.. It's not as bity as I like and it lacks some serious feel through my pedal..

Does anyone else feel this?

Surprisingly these pads don't appear to wear down much if at all! (I drive her hard hehe).

I've been recommended the Ferodo RS2500 (I think that's what it's called - can't remember) haha.

Would changing the pads make such a difference to the feel in the pedal, braking power and bityness?

Yep. They have good modulation but very little bite and they fade very easily under heat. They can't really clamp hard like I want them to. So I've ordered some Carbotech XP12's for the front and XP8's for the rear. Along with some 1521's (front) for the street. Race pads on the street are pretty unbearable for most people. Luckily, swapping out the pads on the front is a 15 min job per wheel so I don't mind doing it for track days.

I went with the Carbotechs because they have a non-corrossive compound that is also pretty easy on the rotors. Most racing brakes like the Ferodos or Hawks will chew up your rotors pretty quick and also leave a nasty layer of dust everywhere that turns corrossive when wet.

- Jeremy -

[joshsmith]

Yep. They have good modulation but very little bite and they fade very easily under heat. They can't really clamp hard like I want them to. So I've ordered some Carbotech XP12's for the front and XP8's for the rear. Along with some 1521's (front) for the street. Race pads on the street are pretty unbearable for most people. Luckily, swapping out the pads on the front is a 15 min job per wheel so I don't mind doing it for track days.

I went with the Carbotechs because they have a non-corrossive compound that is also pretty easy on the rotors. Most racing brakes like the Ferodos or Hawks will chew up your rotors pretty quick and also leave a nasty layer of dust everywhere that turns corrossive when wet.

- Jeremy -

Hmm very interesting..

I'm happy to have race pads for the road; the more race the beter is the way I see it

[- Jeremy -]

Hmm very interesting..

I'm happy to have race pads for the road; the more race the beter is the way I see it

Like this?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=th4TLez3i3E

But at least you get a little light show at night:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=At4sORiH4a0

- Jeremy -

[- Jeremy -]

On another note, my Goodridge steel lines came in yesterday. They look good. No idea how they fit yet, though. I'll try to get them on this weekend.



- Jeremy -

[JohnLZ7W]

Keep us posted on the brake lines. I've heard they need a bit of work to get them to fit properly

[996cab]

IT is nice to dream however why spend 50% of the value of the car and hard earned cash on brakes alone...for an Audi TT?

Erm, does not make sense to me...and am not shy to spend however I will find it difficult to justify $20k on brakes alone for an Audi TT.

I give those brakes a certainly on an Audi TT.

[eddiey]

For replacement brakes pads without a wear sensor, what did you do with the brake pad wear sensor plug?

1. Splice the existing wires in order to loop the sensor so it's constantly reading pads is good so not to trigger brake warning light?
2. Purchase a plug that loops the signal without having to splice the wires yourself? Is there such a plug for the 2012 TT RS? ECStuning has a plug but doesn't work for the TTRS?

[TTracing]

Driving with the Carbotech 1521(front) for 3 weeks,now.

They,definitely,don't have the OEM grasp and power.
For everyday driving, they're ok, however...

The big plus,no dust,no dust at all.The rear wheels,still OEM pads,dirty after 2 weeks...the front still shiny.
And no noise,besides the sheshee of a pad trying to grab a rotor...

[mageus]

For replacement brakes pads without a wear sensor, what did you do with the brake pad wear sensor plug?

1. Short and splice the sensor PLUG wires, not the wires leading to the car. That way you can use a sensor if you decide to go back to stock pads.

[eddiey]

I've heard there are 2 different pad compounds on OEM front brakes for the TTRS? The dealer quoted $550 for a set of front pads. The OEMplus.com site has them for $103.00? Why the price difference?

[Poverty]

lol, dealers arent called stealers for no reason mate.

[bluesun68]

I've heard there are 2 different pad compounds on OEM front brakes for the TTRS? The dealer quoted $550 for a set of front pads. The OEMplus.com site has them for $103.00? Why the price difference?

Are you sure those are for the TT-RS and not the regular TT?

[mageus]

Are you sure those are for the TT-RS and not the regular TT?

+1.

There are no $100 OEM TTRS pads. However, the pads are the same as 2010 STI (or CTS-V, camaro, etc). So, it's possible to find aftermarket pads that fit for <$100.

BTW, I put EBC yellowstuff on for the street. Went for a spirited drive in the mountains. They did fair, but felt a little fade on a very twisty part. Sounds like TTracing's experience with the Bobcats - great for the street, but just doesn't cut it for aggressive use.

Decent street pads (EBC yellow, CT Bobcat, Hawk HPS) are ~$120-$180 a pair.

[Poverty]

EBC pads are terrible

[Marty]

I've had horrible experiences with EBC redstuff pads squealing and their customer service lacking in the past.

[tdi-bart]

ceramic brakes are not 100% PnP, no matter which model you got them from i believe.

i think rs4 is the easiest to make fit (all you need is a spacer?) here is a setup for $5k http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-RS4-RS5...#ht_1561wt_193

rears i heard are a lot of work to change to ceramic