VWVortex


+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Inner cv boot torn.

  1. Member Scirocco16's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 3rd, 2012
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    361
    Vehicles
    '87 Scirocco 16V
    04-14-2012 11:37 AM #1
    Well, in the process of getting my scirocco's miscellaneous problems sorted, I noticed that my inner cv boot on the drivers side has a big rip and is zip-tied in place on the axle. I hear it could ruin my cv joint if not taken care of pronto. At one place in the Bentley, I noticed it said you could replace the inner boot without taking the axle out. How is it done, and would it be wrong to just replace the boot? I haven't heard or felt anything strange while driving the car, so I assume my cv joint isn't damaged? Could someone give me some pointers on this? I'm kind of a noob so obviously I have lots of questions.

  2. Member LoDub1.8T's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 18th, 2008
    Location
    Nashville, TN.
    Posts
    2,361
    Vehicles
    2L 16v mk1 scirocco, on digi
    04-14-2012 02:57 PM #2
    Once under the car, grab the shaft of the axle an move it up an down. If it moves a good amount you should just replace the entire axle. Sometimes the joint can be bad an not cause vibration or noise.

    As far as changing the boot in the car, it can be done but is ALOT easier once out, where you can place it on a bench or in a vise.

    It can and will damage the joint if it is not addressed. The rotating of the axle makes the grease leave the boot which will dry out the joint. Once the joint is dry it begins scaring the joint surfaces as there is nothing lubricating them.

  3. Member Scirocco16's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 3rd, 2012
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    361
    Vehicles
    '87 Scirocco 16V
    04-14-2012 03:12 PM #3
    I looked at it some more and it looks like the outer boot on that axle is ripped open too. So I suppose I should just go ahead and find an axle. How difficult and involving is it to replace the axle? Should I take it to a qualified mechanic with the right tools? I suppose my transaxle seal is out too because there's a lot of oil on the bottom of the transaxle around the joints too.

  4. Member Blaines_Rocco's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 8th, 2011
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    137
    Vehicles
    1986 Scirocco 16v
    04-14-2012 04:20 PM #4
    It's generally recommended if your boots are bad just go ahead and replace the whole CV axle... It'll just save you some pain, and generally when your boots are as bad as you say they are there isn't much point in not replacing the whole thing.

    Now I would watch this

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jydxp...eature=related

    and remember that the hub nut is a 30mm and it has to be replaced once you replace the CV axle. Not sure if a axle comes with a replacement nut or not but GermanAutoParts.com has them.

  5. Member LoDub1.8T's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 18th, 2008
    Location
    Nashville, TN.
    Posts
    2,361
    Vehicles
    2L 16v mk1 scirocco, on digi
    04-14-2012 08:11 PM #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Scirocco16 View Post
    I looked at it some more and it looks like the outer boot on that axle is ripped open too. So I suppose I should just go ahead and find an axle. How difficult and involving is it to replace the axle? Should I take it to a qualified mechanic with the right tools? I suppose my transaxle seal is out too because there's a lot of oil on the bottom of the transaxle around the joints too.
    As far as doing this yourself it is easy providing you have the right tools.

    Also as far as your output flange seals, if it's gear oil then yes its the flange seals, if it's motor oil there is a very good chance the distributor is leaking oil. Very common on the 16v's

  6. 04-14-2012 10:04 PM #6
    - Don't mix greases. Clean out all old CV grease if reusing/rebuilding CV Joints.

    - The 30mm Axle Nut is supposed to be a one time use item. Cheap enough to get a new one if it's time for the old one to come off.

    - You can source CV Joint Kits online (and locally). they come w/ new boots and lubricant (as well as clamps). http://www.parts4vws.com/catalog/index.asp

    - If you pull your axle out you are disturbing enough of the front end to require a Front End Alignment afterwards. You should prepare ahead of time either to reset it your self (it can be done at home in a relative level driveway...) or dial it in enough to get you to a local shop to hook it up to a 'machine'. (It's not really complicated, it's experience that makes it seem easy.)

    - Redline makes some groovy synthetic CV grease. http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=82&pcid=17

    - Some folks will advocate Rebuilt Axles; they have often a Lifetime Return policy. Get a bad one, swap it out... I'm of the Scirocco Care and Feeding Program that requires I don't put no-name, hacked at rebuilt stuff on my car. but thats just me, no judgment. that being said, if you source the good stuff, at a reasonable price, and install it, keep a reasonable eye on it during it's usable life- you'll work out OK.


    Dems me thinks at the moment.

  7. Member Scirocco16's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 3rd, 2012
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    361
    Vehicles
    '87 Scirocco 16V
    04-14-2012 10:59 PM #7
    I guess I'm going to replace the axle sometime in the near future. I figure I might as well drive it until I notice some noise or vibration. I know my distributor is leaking, so that's probably where a lot of the oil comes from.

  8. Member LoDub1.8T's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 18th, 2008
    Location
    Nashville, TN.
    Posts
    2,361
    Vehicles
    2L 16v mk1 scirocco, on digi
    04-14-2012 11:00 PM #8
    Not trying to start a debate but if you remove the axle an only remove the ball joint cinch bolt you will not need an alignment.

  9. 04-14-2012 11:06 PM #9
    Quote Originally Posted by LoDub1.8T View Post
    Not trying to start a debate but if you remove the axle an only remove the ball joint cinch bolt you will not need an alignment.

    Loosen the Inner CV from the Transaxle, then main Axle nut, and then unhook the ball joint and pull the whole hub/Shock/Spring assembly away from the centerline of the car.

    Allows enough room to pull the Axle out without changing the geometry of the Front End, right?

  10. Member LoDub1.8T's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 18th, 2008
    Location
    Nashville, TN.
    Posts
    2,361
    Vehicles
    2L 16v mk1 scirocco, on digi
    04-14-2012 11:12 PM #10
    Quote Originally Posted by TBerk View Post
    Loosen the Inner CV from the Transaxle, then main Axle nut, and then unhook the ball joint and pull the whole hub/Shock/Spring assembly away from the centerline of the car.

    Allows enough room to pull the Axle out without changing the geometry of the Front End, right?
    If you leave the ball joint attached to the control arm, remove the cinch bolt from the spindle that pinches the ball joint in place it wont change the suspension geometry. The ball joint only fits in the spindle one way. I have done hundreds of these cars in this manor with NO affect to the alignment.

  11. 04-15-2012 12:09 AM #11
    Thx, My hands remember but my Brains starting to forget...

  12. Member punchbug's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 15th, 2000
    Location
    Ontario's deep south
    Posts
    7,405
    Vehicles
    Assorted German Scrapmetal and a really old aircooled trike project
    04-15-2012 12:22 AM #12
    Quote Originally Posted by LoDub1.8T View Post
    If you leave the ball joint attached to the control arm, remove the cinch bolt from the spindle that pinches the ball joint in place it wont change the suspension geometry. The ball joint only fits in the spindle one way. I have done hundreds of these cars in this manor with NO affect to the alignment.
    Yup, this. And do you need to pull the K bar? I think maybe. I think I got so I could do it in under an hour. Oddball tools are that big 30mm socket, maybe some pipe to convince that axle nut to come off, and the ever popular triple square for the axle bolts. Clean the head of those bolts well with a pick, and tap the bit in. Long extensions and some wobble ones enable you to do those from outside the car (ie, not laying under it) IIRC, the bolt on the pinch clamp for the ball joint is a one use too...or am I on crack? Anyway, it is a good job to be able to do yourself, since you will do it if you ever need to replace the clutch or transaxle.

  13. Member Scirocco16's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 3rd, 2012
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    361
    Vehicles
    '87 Scirocco 16V
    04-15-2012 01:32 AM #13
    Thanks all! So I guess I'll replace the axle whenever it becomes top priority. Too many things on my list right now and I'm afraid it's growing. I guess that's pretty much expected with these cars from what I read. But man they're fun when they work. I've already found that out somewhat.

    Glad to know I can possibly do it in a few hours with the right tools, and that I shouldn't need to have it aligned.

    If it would be easy and cheap to just slap a new boot on, I'd consider it urgent; that's kind of why I started this thread. But if I might as well do the whole axle, then I can probably get some more miles out of it before its shot.

    If you have any more tips and advice, I'd sure appreciate it as I'll definitely be referring to this thread when I do it.
    Last edited by Scirocco16; 04-15-2012 at 01:35 AM.

  14. Member LoDub1.8T's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 18th, 2008
    Location
    Nashville, TN.
    Posts
    2,361
    Vehicles
    2L 16v mk1 scirocco, on digi
    04-15-2012 02:44 AM #14
    Before removing the axle nut an breaking free the ball joint loosen the axle from the trans first. Please for your safety when you put the car up put jack stands under it!

    If you put a small flat screw driver between the caliper an caliper hanger into the slot in your rotor it will keep the axle in one spot an prevent it from turning when you are trying to break the bolts that secure the axle to the trans loose.

    As i mentioned in my first post, get under the car an move the axle in an up an down motion to see if there is any play. If there is no play in the joint ( inner or outer) then the joint is fine an can be rebooted. It really just depends on how much grease has left the boot. This could save you some money on the repair.

    Also as I saw someone mentioned before, IF the joint is ok an can be rebooted, ensure that you clean out the joint well so you dont mix the old an new grease.

    -Rob

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts