So what's the secret to doing the front oil seal on these 8v motors?
Got me an 88 slegato gettin the spa treatment in my garage and I'm at a loss on how to get the front oil seal done cause there's noothing stopping the engine from turning when I try to loosen the big 19mm bolt that the pulley bolts to and behind the pulley is the lower timing belt gear.
Can't get that bolt off... same on my 85... I ended up replacing the timing belt on the 85 because torquing on that bolt stripped a pile of teeth off the belt! I've got the bentley and in this case its useless.
I tried an impact gun, various methods of trying to stop engine from turning but can't seem to figure this one out!
Anybody on the vortex do their front oil seal? ANy help is much appreciated...
course, there's not much room or clearance underneath to get at the bolt when the tires are on the ground... but perhaps there's enuf room in the engine bay to get at it from the top...
I did have a go at it with the driver's wheel on the ground, and a C clamp putting pressure on the pass side brake pad, which let my put a lot of force on that bolt, but it still wouldn't budge
unfortunately all my buds are busy turning their own wrenches this weekend...
funny how the bentley manual doesn't give any info on removing the bolt. it gives torque factors, and pics of special tools to remove and install the seals, but no help on the nut...
what do you guys n gals do to get the front seal replaced? or more specifically what do you do to get that damned crank nut loose?
The tires don't need to touch the ground if you have someone applying the brakes. But if you are under the car on jack stands please do not trust them, whenever I'm under the car without tires and wheels on I have the wheels under the front jacking points and the car on stands as well as the jack placed under transmission.
well, in gear and holding brakes didn't work (with the car up on jackstands, wheels off)
so I did the old tried and true "rope trick" -- took #1 plug out, stuffed as much rope inside as possible, then turned the motor till she wouldn't turn no more, and then used a long breaker bar on the bolt -- presto!
once that was off, a few taps got the lower cam gear off, only to find the cam hear had nearly sheer'd itself off the crank... that little nub that keeps the cam gear from spinning freely on the crank, had moved about the equivalent of one tooth!
I promptly scored a new gear from napa and have her new timing belt, and all new front seals (cam, intermediate, & crank) !!!
Was there any damage to the crank snout key way? Even a slightly deformed key way will allow the crank gear to move and damage the gear/throw off timing.
Many have drilled the end of the crank and used dowel pins to prevent movement of the pulley.
My personal experience is that is happens more frequently on engine with a heavy front pulley.
Another way to get it off is to make a bracket that uses the bolt holes from the pulley and holes on the 2sides of it on the block, this type f bracket is sometimes used to secure the crank in timing belt service, here is an example of a home made solution, not vw but you get the idea.
Old sciroccos never die....they just go faster....sometimes....... www.ziggituning.com
thankfully, there was no damage to the crank or keyway at all... it is quite possible the key inside the lower timing gear was damaged while trying to get the damned thing off, before using the 'rope trick' ...
the pulley and timing gear are both of the bone stock type... not sure what you mean by a heavy pulley...
and that bracket idea is golden! never even thought to do that...
well, I'm just finishing up a few more things, and hoping to fire her up today