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    Thread: Mk6 tdi motor mount options

    1. Member Guack007's Avatar
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      09-20-2012 04:39 PM #26
      I'm sure if you search you'll find some reviews

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      09-20-2012 07:48 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by DankNugz View Post
      Which mount did you install?

      Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
      Just the ECS insert and after about 200 miles the vibration at idle has gone down alot reverse is another story.

    3. Member DankNugz's Avatar
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      09-20-2012 09:38 PM #28
      http://www.autotech.com/product/engi...t-mkvi-gti-2t]

      ^ That looks like the best option to tighten it up and add the least possible vibration, and yes 20 bucks is a great deal.

      http://store.blackforestindustries.c...oarmin091.html

      ^That would be the next best option for the best price(70a poly insert). 35 bucks and you can get a 90a hardness one for 5 bucks more, but I would not go any harder than 70a from what was said about the ECS mount above

      As far as our mysterious driveline movement goes, it can probably be attributed to both the dogbone mount and the dual mass flywheel. Everyone on here said after installing some sort of mount, the movement lessened but was still there, so it cant just be the mounts, and I don't believe we can tighten the mounts situation anymore without rattling our cars to pieces.

      Like I said before, all this talk about the DMF really makes me want to go to a single mass flywheel when it comes time to do a clutch. Would it really add that much vibration to the car? I don't see how it could be any worse than the older mk4 TDIs and they have a standard single mass flywheel, don't they?
      The MK2 Golf TDI build thread

      Quote Originally Posted by ravera View Post
      How could you forget the most important point of all? Arguing on an internet forum. You'll never win with your silly pushrods.
      You can use my VAG COM for a case of beer - check my location and PM me

    4. Member DankNugz's Avatar
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      09-20-2012 09:50 PM #29
      A dual-mass flywheel is actually two masses that are "sprung" together and allow for pulses to be absorbed while still delivering power smoothly through the spinning flywheel (i.e. the flywheel absorbs the surges of pistons delivering their power, rather than transmitting it to the clutch/trans).
      A single-mass flywheel does not absorb these surges
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfNjA...eature=related



      What we are feeling is the dual mass flywheel absorbing the "surge" created when quickly going from no-load decelerating to mid-load accelerating. Assuming the range of movement for the dual mass flywheel pieces relative to each other is what is shown in the video(looked to be about 135 degrees), lets just say when creating the symptom we are all describing, the masses of the flywheel move a total of 90 degrees relative to each other. Imagine if your engine mount was broken and the engine rotated 90 degrees on the axes of the axles. Considering the pieces of the flywheel weigh a lot less than an engine mounted in the bay, that 90 degrees of flywheel "lash" should not feel like an engine hopping around. That's how you get our clunk, and that's why I think it may be normal. I am by no means an expert, but that is the best logical explanation I could come up with.
      The MK2 Golf TDI build thread

      Quote Originally Posted by ravera View Post
      How could you forget the most important point of all? Arguing on an internet forum. You'll never win with your silly pushrods.
      You can use my VAG COM for a case of beer - check my location and PM me

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      09-21-2012 11:00 AM #30
      Quote Originally Posted by DankNugz View Post
      http://www.autotech.com/product/engi...t-mkvi-gti-2t]

      ^ That looks like the best option to tighten it up and add the least possible vibration, and yes 20 bucks is a great deal.

      http://store.blackforestindustries.c...oarmin091.html

      ^That would be the next best option for the best price(70a poly insert). 35 bucks and you can get a 90a hardness one for 5 bucks more, but I would not go any harder than 70a from what was said about the ECS mount above

      As far as our mysterious driveline movement goes, it can probably be attributed to both the dogbone mount and the dual mass flywheel. Everyone on here said after installing some sort of mount, the movement lessened but was still there, so it cant just be the mounts, and I don't believe we can tighten the mounts situation anymore without rattling our cars to pieces.

      Like I said before, all this talk about the DMF really makes me want to go to a single mass flywheel when it comes time to do a clutch. Would it really add that much vibration to the car? I don't see how it could be any worse than the older mk4 TDIs and they have a standard single mass flywheel, don't they?
      This guy went from the AutoTech to The HPA Mount: (Of course it is a 2.5, not a TDI)

      http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthr...unt&p=73523674

      I think the BFI is probley the best bet to try out because it is cheap, and can easily be removed if you don't like the feel, unlike the HPA where you have to destroy the original mount, and if you dont like it you have to buy a new oem one, $60, and press it in... Although, I have heard of the inserts breaking after 10-20k miles.

      The MK4s do have a DMF, my friend swapped his DMF out on his MK4 a few years ago for a SMF. What sucks about SMFs for our cars, is there are only 2 options available, and 1 kit cost $800, the other is $1200. I hear with a SMF, you don't want to go with a lighter flywheel, or it will be really bad. There aren't alot of MK6ers that have done a SMF swap, os there isn't alot of info available. The only person I have talked to about a MK6 SMF was on TDI Club, and he put a SBC SMF, Diff, and DG Short Shifter on his 2010 TDI Cup, and now, 7000 miles later, is having to replace 3 syncros I hear it only adds vibration at idle, but after living with this HPA mount for 1 week, I can tell you, any amount of vibration over stock at idle is incredibly annoying!

      Also, after driving a week with my HPA mount, the movement/clunk isn't any better then it was before on the stock mounts. I don't think any kind of dogbone reinforcement would help with the issue I am having atleast. The only improvement I feel with the mount is when starting from a stop in 1st or R, or when shifting above 3000rpm. Other then that, it really doesn't' feel that much different, and is totally not worth the extra NVH.
      Last edited by whiplash willy; 09-21-2012 at 11:50 AM.

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      09-21-2012 11:49 AM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by DankNugz View Post
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfNjA...eature=related



      What we are feeling is the dual mass flywheel absorbing the "surge" created when quickly going from no-load decelerating to mid-load accelerating. Assuming the range of movement for the dual mass flywheel pieces relative to each other is what is shown in the video(looked to be about 135 degrees), lets just say when creating the symptom we are all describing, the masses of the flywheel move a total of 90 degrees relative to each other. Imagine if your engine mount was broken and the engine rotated 90 degrees on the axes of the axles. Considering the pieces of the flywheel weigh a lot less than an engine mounted in the bay, that 90 degrees of flywheel "lash" should not feel like an engine hopping around. That's how you get our clunk, and that's why I think it may be normal. I am by no means an expert, but that is the best logical explanation I could come up with.
      DankNugz,

      I am glad I have found someone else who is having this issue, and that it bothers them as much as it bothers me! I hope we can both find a solution to this problem, or 100% conclude it is normal...

      BTW, your youtube link is broken.

      Also, when decelerating, how do you think the DMF masses are relative to each other? Are they at the 0 point, + point (Same as Accelerating), or - point.

      And as far as your issue goes, do you feel it all of the time, or just some of the time? For me, I feel it only some of the time when I press the accelerator from coasting, or let off the accelerator while cruising. It doesnt' seem to matter if I just barley press, or lift off the throttle, or really step on it, it will clunk either way. It also doesn't seem to matter if I am between 1000rpm and 2000rpm when coasting, or between 2000 and 3000.

      It also seems to happen less often when I am on a flat or inclined surface, and more often when I am on a decline, and/or, the passenger side of the car is lower then the driver side. What situations do you experience it more in.

      I as well would like to hear from more people who have done SMF swaps and seen if that has fixed the issue.

      In my searches, other people have complained about a similar issue on newer cars with DBW and DMFs. Especially with Subarus and BMWs...
      Last edited by whiplash willy; 09-21-2012 at 11:51 AM.

    7. Member DankNugz's Avatar
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      09-21-2012 12:13 PM #32
      The HPA kit looks like an interesting design and I would consider it if I had a gas job, but no way for the diesel.

      As far as mounts go, I think im going with the 70a BFI insert and if that vibrates too much ill spend the 20 bucks to try out the autotech one.

      I've seen people over on TDIclub that were talking about using a either a VR6 flywheel with a G60 clutch or vice versa, but I need to do some more research on that one.

      I was already planning on upgrading the clutch when it needs to be replaced, because I am doing a DPF delete with a malone tune and I know the stock TDI clutch can't hold too much torque over stock. Im curious how much the vibration changes when running a stock weight single mass flywheel (yes, I would never go with a lightened flywheel on a diesel, as it needs to have a good amount of mass to overcome the tighter compression stroke that a gas motor doesn't need. I think if you ran a lightened flywheel you'd feel every compression and ignition stroke, and every cylinder pressure spike).

      Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
      The MK2 Golf TDI build thread

      Quote Originally Posted by ravera View Post
      How could you forget the most important point of all? Arguing on an internet forum. You'll never win with your silly pushrods.
      You can use my VAG COM for a case of beer - check my location and PM me

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      09-21-2012 01:29 PM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by DankNugz View Post
      The HPA kit looks like an interesting design and I would consider it if I had a gas job, but no way for the diesel.

      As far as mounts go, I think im going with the 70a BFI insert and if that vibrates too much ill spend the 20 bucks to try out the autotech one.

      I've seen people over on TDIclub that were talking about using a either a VR6 flywheel with a G60 clutch or vice versa, but I need to do some more research on that one.

      I was already planning on upgrading the clutch when it needs to be replaced, because I am doing a DPF delete with a malone tune and I know the stock TDI clutch can't hold too much torque over stock. Im curious how much the vibration changes when running a stock weight single mass flywheel (yes, I would never go with a lightened flywheel on a diesel, as it needs to have a good amount of mass to overcome the tighter compression stroke that a gas motor doesn't need. I think if you ran a lightened flywheel you'd feel every compression and ignition stroke, and every cylinder pressure spike).

      Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
      The VR6 flywheels are for the 5-speed transmissions, as well as most of the reasonably priced SMF conversion kits ($about 4-500). Unfortunately for our 6-speed transmissions, there are only 2 kits available:

      http://www.idparts.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=76_102

      The SBC Kit for $1,195 and the Valeo kit for $739. I have heard bad things about the valeo kit...

      Almost all of the info you can find on SMF conversions are for the 5 speed trannys, not much on our 6 speed trannys unfortunately. Not only are the parts are expensive, but then the labor isn't cheap either. That would suck to buy the $1,200 SBC kit, pay $500+ for the install, then turn out not to like the rattle it may produce it idle.

    9. Member DankNugz's Avatar
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      09-21-2012 02:37 PM #34
      That youtube video is linked in a previous post on this thread.

      1200 bucks is pretty damn pricey for a flywheel kit, but I may consider it when the time comes. The labor is a non issue for me because I will be doing it myself at my roommate's shop.

      As far as our theories on the actual movement of the DMF go, let's say during hard acceleration(high load, going uphill, etc) the difference in position for the 2 masses is +45-60 degrees. During deceleration, the position of the masses(relative to each other) may be -45 degrees. So when you go from decel to accel, the masses of the flywheel have to move a total of 90 degrees(on springs) before that torque even gets to the transmission. Once the DMF shifts to accel mode, it then has to go through the trans(as explained above, there is always going to be some transmission lash), and then it hits the diff (also has built in lash). For our purposes, let's say the dogbone mount is "decompressed" during decel and "compressed" during accel. Now that torque hits the axels, and moves the dogbone mount from a "decompressed" position to a "compressed" position, which adds to total driveline lash.

      At all the "points of added lash" that I mentioned above, the most movement is manifested in the DMF, and that's why I think that's the main cause of our "clunk", and why the dogbone inserts don't seem to do much for it.

      Im still getting some kind of insert, because I do drive my car pretty hard and would like that mount to last regardless of what the cause of our clunk is.

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      The MK2 Golf TDI build thread

      Quote Originally Posted by ravera View Post
      How could you forget the most important point of all? Arguing on an internet forum. You'll never win with your silly pushrods.
      You can use my VAG COM for a case of beer - check my location and PM me

    10. Member DankNugz's Avatar
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      09-21-2012 02:43 PM #35
      I don't notice it all the time, but I trust it does happen whenever I tap the gas pedal from decel. I think the people who don't notice it, simply don't notice it, because like I said a few posts ago, I have felt this movement since day 1 and I just figured it was the nature of the dogbone mount they put in the diesels to isolate vibration, but obviously that's not the case since people have installed inserts and still experience the symptom.

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      The MK2 Golf TDI build thread

      Quote Originally Posted by ravera View Post
      How could you forget the most important point of all? Arguing on an internet forum. You'll never win with your silly pushrods.
      You can use my VAG COM for a case of beer - check my location and PM me

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      09-21-2012 04:08 PM #36
      DankNugs,

      That is cool you have access to a shop like that to do your own work! I no longer have time, nor do my friends, to do the larger mait jobs on my car anymore (Married + 15mo old!)

      Your description in post 34 makes total sense though on the source of the noise.

      I revived an on old thread on the R32 forum about the same issue, and alot of those guys experience the clunk, and also believe it is DMF related:

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...1#post79057601

      It would still be good to hear from some people who did SMF conversions though!

    12. Member DankNugz's Avatar
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      09-21-2012 04:47 PM #37
      Wheather I go with the SMF or keep the stock flywheel, I do plan on doing the clutch and almost everything else on this car myself, with the exception of the timing belt, because when I saw the belt routing I almost cried lol.

      I would not do the clutch if I didn't have access to a lift, and yes I am very lucky I have that now that I don't work on cars for a living anymore.

      I just came up with a perfect example of how to reproduce the symptom on my way home from work. Accelerate hard in 2nd gear(getting to at least 2500 rpm) and let off the gas pedal quickly. The front end drops from the drop in torque, then immediately after that I felt a slight clunk and it happens all the time, but I have just gotten used to it.

      I thought "huh it feels like my engine is bouncing off springs when changing from accel to decel"

      Well, it is on springs, the springs in the DMF.

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      Last edited by DankNugz; 09-21-2012 at 04:49 PM.
      The MK2 Golf TDI build thread

      Quote Originally Posted by ravera View Post
      How could you forget the most important point of all? Arguing on an internet forum. You'll never win with your silly pushrods.
      You can use my VAG COM for a case of beer - check my location and PM me

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      09-21-2012 05:31 PM #38
      Quote Originally Posted by DankNugz View Post
      I just came up with a perfect example of how to reproduce the symptom on my way home from work. Accelerate hard in 2nd gear(getting to at least 2500 rpm) and let off the gas pedal quickly. The front end drops from the drop in torque, then immediately after that I felt a slight clunk and it happens all the time, but I have just gotten used to it.
      I'll try that on my way home...

      So lets just say it the clunk is from the DMF. Is it normal? Or if it is a symptom of a failing DMF, say one that has excessive play in it? Unfortunately the only way I know of to check for DMF play, is to remove the starter, and check the DMF through that hole in the bell housing. But I dont know how accurately it can be checked that way.

      Example of checking for play through starter hole:

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vaNY1nqd7i8

      Here is a vid that shows a worn vs new DMF:

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kO07u4_sU6M

      I know there is a way to measure it by degrees of rotation (like less then X degrees of movement is good) but i think you need to pull the DMF for that. I remember reading somewhere that others measured it by marking each mass and measuring the mm of movement, but I don't know the details on that.

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      09-21-2012 10:38 PM #39
      034 Motorsports has "solid rubber" mounts.

      Tried... BSH mounts.... hated them. I have 40,000 miles on them and hate every mile of it. when it;s time for a clutch change, stock mounts are going in.

      Black Forest Industries used to offer "Street" bushings for their mounts, which were still poly, but a slightly harder durometer than the stock rubber. They stopped offering them quickly as somehow they felt it was not worth the expense of offering it.
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      09-25-2012 11:31 AM #40
      Quote Originally Posted by BsickPassat View Post
      034 Motorsports has "solid rubber" mounts.

      Tried... BSH mounts.... hated them. I have 40,000 miles on them and hate every mile of it. when it;s time for a clutch change, stock mounts are going in.

      Black Forest Industries used to offer "Street" bushings for their mounts, which were still poly, but a slightly harder durometer than the stock rubber. They stopped offering them quickly as somehow they felt it was not worth the expense of offering it.
      I have heard bad things about the 034 mounts wearing out early. Plus the 034 mounts require you to remove the subframe and press them in.... My HPA 75a Red mount is actually starting to get to the point where I may be able to live with it. Really it only rattles at idle when it is around 800rpm. When my idle is at 900 it is barley noticeable, and when at is at 1000rpm during regen, there is no vibrations. It does have a very slight vibe, which is barley noticeable when you are getting close to lugging as well. The only other time it is noticeable is the harsh noise my engine makes during startup, which is hard to describe. Also, my wife didn't notice any NVH in the car either, however she wouldn't notice if I painted my car yellow!

      I am going to try to increase my idle to 900rpm, and see if that helps, but if not, the current rattle at 800rpm idle is enough to make me want to go back to stock, however pressing in the stock mount is MUCH harder then removing it, which is a PITA! I spent 6 hours over the weekend trying to press the stock mount back in, and failed! I ended up breaking the plastic ring around the stock mount (There goes $60). HPA says they have been able to push in the stock lower mount without having to remove the subframe, and one of their techs is going to give me advice on how to do it.

      HPA does have awesome customer service, and I wouldn't hesitate buying anything from them in the future! I would say their 75a Red mount (once broken in) does vastly improve the response and feeling of the car when starting from a stop, and when shifting above 2500rpm. I am just really sensitive to vibes. So performance wise, their mount is a great improvement over stock, and easy to press in and remove (If only the stock one was that easy).

      As far as NVH on a TDI, I would say for people who aren't super sensitive to vibes, the increase in performance may be worth the startup noises and vibes at low idle. For the 2.5 and 2.0 TSI, im sure those engines are much smoother then the TDI, and there would probley be little to no additional NVH, in my opinion.

      However, think long and hard before you remove your stock dogbone mount, because it really is a huge PITA to get back in, and it is possible you may even have to drop your subframe to get the $60 stock one back in!

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      09-25-2012 05:54 PM #41
      Quote Originally Posted by whiplash willy View Post
      I have heard bad things about the 034 mounts wearing out early. Plus the 034 mounts require you to remove the subframe and press them in.... My HPA 75a Red mount is actually starting to get to the point where I may be able to live with it. Really it only rattles at idle when it is around 800rpm. When my idle is at 900 it is barley noticeable, and when at is at 1000rpm during regen, there is no vibrations. It does have a very slight vibe, which is barley noticeable when you are getting close to lugging as well. The only other time it is noticeable is the harsh noise my engine makes during startup, which is hard to describe. Also, my wife didn't notice any NVH in the car either, however she wouldn't notice if I painted my car yellow!

      I am going to try to increase my idle to 900rpm, and see if that helps, but if not, the current rattle at 800rpm idle is enough to make me want to go back to stock, however pressing in the stock mount is MUCH harder then removing it, which is a PITA! I spent 6 hours over the weekend trying to press the stock mount back in, and failed! I ended up breaking the plastic ring around the stock mount (There goes $60). HPA says they have been able to push in the stock lower mount without having to remove the subframe, and one of their techs is going to give me advice on how to do it.

      HPA does have awesome customer service, and I wouldn't hesitate buying anything from them in the future! I would say their 75a Red mount (once broken in) does vastly improve the response and feeling of the car when starting from a stop, and when shifting above 2500rpm. I am just really sensitive to vibes. So performance wise, their mount is a great improvement over stock, and easy to press in and remove (If only the stock one was that easy).

      As far as NVH on a TDI, I would say for people who aren't super sensitive to vibes, the increase in performance may be worth the startup noises and vibes at low idle. For the 2.5 and 2.0 TSI, im sure those engines are much smoother then the TDI, and there would probley be little to no additional NVH, in my opinion.

      However, think long and hard before you remove your stock dogbone mount, because it really is a huge PITA to get back in, and it is possible you may even have to drop your subframe to get the $60 stock one back in!
      What is NVH again?

      Im definately not getting a press in mount, and not messing with taking the stock one out. Im probably going to try out the BFI 70a insert and if I don't like that (from what you said, if you can deal with the 75a press in one like you said, I should be able to deal with the insert no problem) I can just spend 20 bucks and get that autotech "insert bracket". Hell I may be able to make one the same as theirs, but 20 bucks is a good deal.

      Im fine with feeling my engine a little more, I just don't want to be rattled out of my drivers seat along with all my interior screws.

      To press in that mount, I have a feeling a wheel bearing press set(not cheap, but im sure you can rent one somewhere) may be able to pull that off with the subframe still in.

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      Quote Originally Posted by ravera View Post
      How could you forget the most important point of all? Arguing on an internet forum. You'll never win with your silly pushrods.
      You can use my VAG COM for a case of beer - check my location and PM me

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      09-26-2012 10:55 AM #42
      Quote Originally Posted by DankNugz View Post
      What is NVH again?

      Im definately not getting a press in mount, and not messing with taking the stock one out. Im probably going to try out the BFI 70a insert and if I don't like that (from what you said, if you can deal with the 75a press in one like you said, I should be able to deal with the insert no problem) I can just spend 20 bucks and get that autotech "insert bracket". Hell I may be able to make one the same as theirs, but 20 bucks is a good deal.

      Im fine with feeling my engine a little more, I just don't want to be rattled out of my drivers seat along with all my interior screws.

      To press in that mount, I have a feeling a wheel bearing press set(not cheap, but im sure you can rent one somewhere) may be able to pull that off with the subframe still in.

      Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
      NVH is Noise Vibration Harshness.

      Yea, although the mount feels nice, the rattling drives me crazy! I just hope the few rattles that have developed since the poly mount has been installed will go away once I go back to stock! I really dont' want to have to remove the subframe, that would really suck! I also don't want to have to try pressing in the stock mount again for another 6 hours, just to fail again....I am going to take it in to a local guru and see if they can do it without dropping the subframe, and how much they will charge. This was quite the expensive mistake!

      $200 for Mount + $60 For Oem Mount that I broke + Another $60 for the 2nd OEM mount on order..... Plus time. And possibly more if the Guru installs it... At this point I would pay another $500 just to get it back to stock, and not have to deal with it anymore....

      Its really too bad the HPA mount has vibes at idle. If only it didn't vibe at idle, I would perfer it to stock....

    18. Member GASDAG's Avatar
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      09-26-2012 11:24 AM #43
      Quote Originally Posted by whiplash willy View Post
      At this point I would pay another $500 just to get it back to stock, and not have to deal with it anymore....
      LOL sounds like me with my cheap $499 coilovers... Luckily I found local help to remove them and was able to sell them at a huge loss. "If I had known then what I know now..." Sounds like my TDI mounts are staying stock!

    19. Member DankNugz's Avatar
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      09-26-2012 12:21 PM #44
      $500 coilovers sound like a horrible idea to begin with lol. That's why I asked on vortex, so I wouldn't regret past lack of knowledge.

      NVH is Noise Vibration Harshness.



      Yea, although the mount feels nice, the rattling drives me crazy! I just hope the few rattles that have developed since the poly mount has been installed will go away once I go back to stock! I really dont' want to have to remove the subframe, that would really suck! I also don't want to have to try pressing in the stock mount again for another 6 hours, just to fail again....I am going to take it in to a local guru and see if they can do it without dropping the subframe, and how much they will charge. This was quite the expensive mistake!



      $200 for Mount + $60 For Oem Mount that I broke + Another $60 for the 2nd OEM mount on order..... Plus time. And possibly more if the Guru installs it... At this point I would pay another $500 just to get it back to stock, and not have to deal with it anymore....



      Its really too bad the HPA mount has vibes at idle. If only it didn't vibe at idle, I would perfer it to stock....
      Yes that is a lot of money just on a stupid motor mount that didn't even fix the problem that prompted you to get it.

      If you weren't on the other side of the country I'd say come by my house, my roommate just bought an on car wheel bearing press set last week. Im almost certain that would work to get the stock mount back in place.

      I may be able to deal with your rattle at idle, but im not going to risk taking the stock mount out, it just sounds like a bad idea from your story.

      Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
      The MK2 Golf TDI build thread

      Quote Originally Posted by ravera View Post
      How could you forget the most important point of all? Arguing on an internet forum. You'll never win with your silly pushrods.
      You can use my VAG COM for a case of beer - check my location and PM me

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      09-27-2012 11:58 AM #45
      Quote Originally Posted by DankNugz View Post
      $500 coilovers sound like a horrible idea to begin with lol. That's why I asked on vortex, so I wouldn't regret past lack of knowledge.



      Yes that is a lot of money just on a stupid motor mount that didn't even fix the problem that prompted you to get it.

      If you weren't on the other side of the country I'd say come by my house, my roommate just bought an on car wheel bearing press set last week. Im almost certain that would work to get the stock mount back in place.

      I may be able to deal with your rattle at idle, but im not going to risk taking the stock mount out, it just sounds like a bad idea from your story.

      Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
      Thanks DankNugs, I would totally take you up on your offer, If I was closer....

      Hopefully I can get the stock dogbone mount in soon, although once I do, I am sure I will stop worrying about idle vibration, and go back to worrying about this clunk!

    21. Member DankNugz's Avatar
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      09-27-2012 05:19 PM #46
      So I just ordered my BFI yellow(70a) insert, I hope it feels as good as I expect it to.

      That not only explains what I thought was the loose dogbone mount, but also addresses the vibration I have always gotten under low gear, high load situations. It almost feels like an axel inbalance, but I bet you its just the DMF hitting the second stage and transferring the torsional vibration to the car instead of dampening it.
      Since we're on the topic of the DMF, I wanted to ask you guys about the vibration I feel during hard acceleration. It has always been there, but seemed to get worse lately, and it got way worse after I swapped out wheels (went from stock TDI wheels with 225/45/17 Continental ContiProContact DWS to 225/40/18 Eagle F1 tires on MK5 huffs). Granted, the tires on the new wheels are old (built in 08) and have a considerable amount of road noise, but this shaking is bad during hard accel.

      It seems to be worst in 4th gear, starting at about 2000 rpm, with the pedal almost to the floor. As soon as I mash the gas, the steering wheel starts shaking violently (like it makes me want to let off the gas) and smoothes out around 25-2700 rpm. If I let off the gas early, it instantly stops shaking. I can deal with how it felt with the stock wheels on, but if I get new tires and its still this bad, I don't know if I will keep the huffs or not because it is a pretty scary shake.

      It is definately not a tire imbalance. My stock wheels were a little out of balance, and I dealt with it because thats what I get for a free mount and balance. As soon as I mounted the huffs, the vibration from the tire imbalance went away and all the sudden my steering wheel shakes violently from accelerating? I don't buy that the wheels are the cause, I think they just make it more noticable.

      From all our ideas about this DMF, I attributed that to the steering wheel shake(not too bad) with the stock wheels. Now I am afraid that maybe this is a sign of the DMF starting to fail? I hope not
      The MK2 Golf TDI build thread

      Quote Originally Posted by ravera View Post
      How could you forget the most important point of all? Arguing on an internet forum. You'll never win with your silly pushrods.
      You can use my VAG COM for a case of beer - check my location and PM me

    22. Member GASDAG's Avatar
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      09-27-2012 05:55 PM #47
      Yeah that sounds weird. I also went to 18x8's with 225/40/18 kumho max summer tires, and even with free lifetime balances and 3-4 rebalancings at discount tire over a 2 month period, I could never get them balanced and eliminate the steering wheel vibration at highway speed 60+ mph.
      Put stock wheels back on with 225/45/17 goodyear assurance fuel max (which is what we want for a tdi, duh) and new tires on stock wheels = zero vibration and 45mpg hwy for me. Sold the 18's with the summer tires.

      If you are ONLY feeling vibration at a certain ENGINE speed, and not VEHICLE speed, then I think your issue may be deeper. Whether it's all the way at the clutch/flywheel, axle, hub, any of that who knows... I would suggest putting stock wheels back on and having the dealer look at it, assuming you are not too modded to hell and into warranty-voided land. take the tech on a test drive with you to recreate the issue. i found on more than one warranty repair issue, the tech could not recreate the issue I brought it in for, and luckily I could recreate it for him, and got it fixed under warranty.

    23. Member DankNugz's Avatar
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      09-27-2012 06:28 PM #48
      Quote Originally Posted by GASDAG View Post
      Yeah that sounds weird. I also went to 18x8's with 225/40/18 kumho max summer tires, and even with free lifetime balances and 3-4 rebalancings at discount tire over a 2 month period, I could never get them balanced and eliminate the steering wheel vibration at highway speed 60+ mph.
      Put stock wheels back on with 225/45/17 goodyear assurance fuel max (which is what we want for a tdi, duh) and new tires on stock wheels = zero vibration and 45mpg hwy for me. Sold the 18's with the summer tires.

      If you are ONLY feeling vibration at a certain ENGINE speed, and not VEHICLE speed, then I think your issue may be deeper. Whether it's all the way at the clutch/flywheel, axle, hub, any of that who knows... I would suggest putting stock wheels back on and having the dealer look at it, assuming you are not too modded to hell and into warranty-voided land. take the tech on a test drive with you to recreate the issue. i found on more than one warranty repair issue, the tech could not recreate the issue I brought it in for, and luckily I could recreate it for him, and got it fixed under warranty.
      I'm past warranty, I put a sh!t ton of miles on my car. Got 66k now. Only mods are short ram intake, and GTI style catback that deletes the sulfur cat and goes up to the exhaust throttle, the rest is aesthetics. It has always had a slight shake during any highway acceleration, and got worse at certain loads/rpms. For most of the time, I just convinced myself it was a diesel and it was normal. Now that I learned how the DMF works, it made sense that it was normal, but after installing these wheels, its right in my face and now I'm not quite sure what I am experiencing is normal.

      I could go over to the dealer with the car as it sits, my local dealer has been very helpful and mod-friendly, and it may be worth the diag fee for peace of mind/certainty of what the problem really is. I have to think on this one.
      The MK2 Golf TDI build thread

      Quote Originally Posted by ravera View Post
      How could you forget the most important point of all? Arguing on an internet forum. You'll never win with your silly pushrods.
      You can use my VAG COM for a case of beer - check my location and PM me

    24. Member DankNugz's Avatar
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      09-27-2012 07:39 PM #49
      http://www.schaeffler.com/remotemedi..._zms_de_en.pdf

      I found this. I don't know how much it applies to our specific flywheels, but it seems to be as much info as I'll ever need on dual mass flywheels.

      Also, I just ran out for dinner, tried to make the shaking occur, and no dice. I ran up 1,2,3,4 and it was nice and smooth, no steering wheel shake. It only seems to happen when already at highway speeds. For example, I'm doing 60 stuck behind a truck and I hit 4th to pass him quickly, my steering wheel starts shaking so bad it feels like its gonna fall off. It happened at least 2 or 3 times during my driving today, and the car sits for 3 hours and its gone. This one will be fun to reproduce if I do decide to go to the dealer.
      The MK2 Golf TDI build thread

      Quote Originally Posted by ravera View Post
      How could you forget the most important point of all? Arguing on an internet forum. You'll never win with your silly pushrods.
      You can use my VAG COM for a case of beer - check my location and PM me

    25. Member GASDAG's Avatar
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      09-28-2012 08:24 AM #50
      66k??? Wow. In ~one year? IM surprised its running at all with that kind of intensive use. 300 mi. daily commute? I have 22k and one year older. 15 mi. per day. Anyway what r u seeing going wrong w the car other than the vibration? With those miles that quickly maybe you should do a clutch & flywheel job just for the helluvit. Then enjoy the next 60k miles. what if u sell it in 2014 with 200k miles on it lol. I wonder what your hwy mpg is now that your engine is fully broken in. They say our engines aren't broken in until 60k, and mpg improves with more time and miles.
      Last edited by GASDAG; 09-28-2012 at 08:27 AM.

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