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Doing it. Got new tensioner water pump belt and thermostat today also some kind of blue coolant. Wish me luck never done this before. Very determined to fix my own car though. Lots of bently reading and brain picking :-)
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I'll second that.
I've found that it's extremely helpful to have a helper on hand for the install. Helper holds the crankshaft, using an adjustable wrench (because you can get that nice-n-tight on the crank bolt.)
No helper? Crank likes to spin (usually backwards) when you pull the belt around the IM shaft & cam sprocket.
Oh, and: looks like you could probably use a right engine mount there, too. That lower timing cover looks to be real, real close to the mount arms on the rail.
NOW is the time to replace that mount (and, maybe all of them), as replacing the right mount requires removal of the timing belt.
(Just did that - again - today....)
Well I did it. Is the intermediate shaft sprocket supposed to have so much play? And it was extremely simple to get belt back on I don't know if it's right now that I'm reding your posts. The car starts and runs but I still have a slight squeal and now some weird sound along with it. Now I'm thinking that all this was caused by the shaft sprocket all along as the PO said the timing belt was new. Ugh guess I gotta take it all out again. And do motor mounts as well.
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I am not sure what you mean by the IM shaft sprocket has play in it, but no, it shouldn't. Like the bolt holding the sprocket on is loose, or like the whole shaft is loose in the block? If the shaft is loose in the block, the PO tightened the belts too much and the IM shaft bearings are toast. Hopefully that's not it.
The belt should go on pretty easily if everything is lined up right. The hard part is keeping everything lined up. Like posted above, it's common for the crank to move when putting the belt over the cam pulley. If the car runs well, you probably got it. I missed by one tooth on an 8v once. Car started, idled, and drove around town fine. Tried to go up a steep hill though, and ZERO power.
It's hard to diagnose a sound over the internet, but take a look at the idler pulley on the water pump. They make a squealing/scratchy noise sometimes. Look to see if any of the pulleys (or belts) are rubbing on the plastic belt covers. It's common for belt covers to warp with age. Mine are wared and the crank pulley rubs it making a quiet scratchy noise. It's not a big deal, but it's annoying. And yeah, motor mount looks bad. Check the others while your in there. One bad one usually puts its load on the others causing them to fail too.
Last edited by kaltblutig; 04-22-2012 at 11:28 PM.
Thanks. I hate to say it but the sprocket that's attached to the dizzy it's one that the timing belt wraps around and I can literally move it side to side. So maybe it is the bearing. It doesn't look like it has a bolt though. It looks like it has a bearing built into it almost like the tensioner /idler It doesn't seem to be leaking any oil out of it though so idk I'm going to pullin all apart again and start over. I ordered all new mounts and new oil pan valve cover and intake mani gaskets. Also cam seal an that shaft sprocket seal. I probably shoulda ordered a bearing too. How to I keep it from spinning while trying to take it off?
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Took it all apart and found that the sprocket for the im shaft was loose. As a result the key way on it rubbed a groove in the shaft so when it's tightened all the way it can still wobble side to side. I haven't the money or knowledge to disassemble an entire engine to put a new shaft so I think I'm going to have a spot weld put in the recessed area and then grind it flat so the sprocket sits flush again. I think it will work as its only turned by the rotation of the timing belt. If it were the crank shaft I'd be in trouble. I guess I'll see how it turns out. The Intermediate shaft won't just pull out if I take out seal will it?
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Post pics, please.
The upside, though: you don't have to tear down the engine to replace the IM shaft - only need to remove the oil pan & water pump. Then, remove the seal carrier (just two screws), and slide the shaft out.
I'm not sure that you can do it in-car, though - I don't think the shaft will exactly clear the body....
Oh. That's so great. Thank you. I don't think it would clear the body either however I was planning on putting in new motor mounts so maybe it's possible to take than off and lower the motor and trans down just enough for it to clear and change mounts at the same time?
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Or, you could do it a little more old-school....
Pull pics off of phone to your computer. Upload to Photobucket, Picassa, Skydrive, or any other photo-hosting service.
(You don't need to do everything from your iPhone, you know... )
if the belt and tensioner was JUST replaced, then i would also inspect the IM shaft for play as well.. usually the only reason that a tensioner will fail that quickly, is from having the timing belt WAY TOO TIGHT on the engine..
then it wipes the IM shaft bearing out, and also takes the tensioner out.
if the tensioner flies apart, worst case scenario, it trashes your head..
Checked. Shaft is good no play. I believe that someone never tightened the bolt all the way or something. I am going out now. Finally got all new gaskets and seals as well as a new sprocket for I m shaft. We will see how all this turns out.
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New sprocket is on. Problem fixed. Next issue. How bad is it if the timing is a tooth out? I think this time when I set the timing it is out a bit. It started right up but it back fired a bit til it warmed up. I was told if its out it can bend the valves. Should I just make sure the flywheel mark is good and then check the cam gear to see where it is? I turned the distributor a bit and back fire is gone. I also just added a TT high rev chip so idk if that has anything to do with it.
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Adjusted the mechanical timing was out a bit thank god not too bad. When I took the belt off and hand turned the cam I felt it go down a little and touch something. The piston I am guessing. So I'm thinking if I was out of time by that much my motor would be toast. Took care of it though. Question. P O painted a mark on flywheel and the tdc mark that is notched in it was about an inch or two from his painted mark so I went with the stamped one. When I do the timing light should I use his painted mark to set it a 6* btdc ? I'll be doing that in the morning.
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an inch past TDC is probably 15* or more, thats probably where he timed it to. its no secret that older VW engines respond well to advanced ignition timing..
im running an 8v engine, but i run probably 18-20* timing, and it will run on regular..