Let me guess, next is a TT RS engine. Please tell me it is!
Gah, Silcon you're typing speed puts me to shame.
Well this is this proper way to lower a car cause you are not reducing the amount of travel of suspension. At least from what I understanding your doing using TT-RS spindles, but not sure what shock setups you are using. You don't normal get this type suspension setup unless your build a custom setup or have a race car.
I know when I made special dropped spindles and got custom shocks made for my 1990 Volvo 760 Turbo. Retained good ride quality while being lower at the same time but maintaining a suspension travel only 1/2" less then stock.
They are good tires though, from what I hear. I've heard good and bad things about the RE-11... wanted them for my last car but ended up going with Michelin Pilot Super Sports instead. I don't know much about the AD08's though.
Anyway, there will always be arguments over which is THE best. There are a lot of good options out there. As long as you're running one of the well-documented premium brands in a street/track compound (~TW200) you should be okay, whether it's Michelin, Pirelli, BFGoodrich, Bridgestone, Yokohama, etc. Maybe one is a tad better here and there but there are a lot of variables... track conditions, track temps, weight of the car, suspension setup, and that's just the basics... and most of us aren't good enough to really find the minute grip differences between two or three different sets of similar street/track premium tires anyway. Do your own research and run what you're comfortable with, that's the important thing.
Last edited by jsausley; 04-25-2012 at 01:41 AM.
2016 Audi S5 | Daytona Gray | 6MT | Black Optics Plus | Sport Differential | Technology Package | Black Alcantara | Carbon Atlas
While I seach the breaker yards for a crashed TT RS can you give us a heads up to what you replaced at both the from and back. I am asuming that you have replaced uprights and control arms at the front? what about the rear if anything? I assume also you are running the VWR suspension?
Last edited by Blatman; 04-25-2012 at 09:35 AM.
Fully loaded four door Golf R Rising Blue, APR Stage III+, VW Racing BBK, KW Club SportSuspension, VWR Wheels, Engine Mounts, HPA Haldex adjustable Diff controller, Stealth tuned DSG, 42DD catch can, Palmer Performance iPhone dash display. custom Sportech cat-less TBE, Intake Manifold TV delete, RS4 FPR, Toyo R888's.
Guys, I'll get more information when I have a second to do so. I'm headed to Miami for our race and then another event right after so it may be a bit before I have details.
I should have some good updates later this week when I have a chance to work on more information!
A big part of the MaxR build will focus around tightening up a few soft areas around the engine and transmission. The factory Golf R is designed to work for a wide range of customers in loads of different situations. Comfort is always a big concern and one way of making things a bit more comfortable is to give up performance. VW did this was by using soft Engine, Transmission and Subframe mounts. They are not necessarily poor from the factory, don't get me wrong, but there is plenty of room for improvement for the enthusiast.
The factory mounts allow quite a bit of engine movement when accelerating quickly off the line and between shifts. On front wheel drive cars, you'll even experience wheel hop in slippery conditions which can ultimately lead to broken components. To reduce the slop, we changed the mounts.
First item to be replaced were the stock subframe mounts as seen here.
These two pieces are pressed into the subframe and allow for quite a bit of movement. This part alone makes the creates improvement for the money. Engine vibration is kept to a minimum so you still have a very comfortable ride and movement between shifts and take up off the line is much improved.
Here's a shot with the new mount installed:
Next up on the list are the engine and transmission mounts. These will add a bit more in cabin vibration, which for some may not be ideal, but others report it makes them feel more connected to the car. Vibration is still minimal compared to some solid race mounts, which are overkill for almost even fully built, track dedicated, race cars. Replacing these two parts finishes up where the subframe mount left off. Both the engine and transmission will be unable to rock as much as stock under heavy take offs and between shifts, which can really make a difference when you're trying to get every last bit out of the car.
Here's the stock engine mount vs the new engine mount:
Last edited by Arin@APR; 02-07-2014 at 04:12 PM.
these mounts look soo kill, to bad i'm not really a VW techy so i could actually appreciate what these things do and how they feel,so much to know about the new R with so little time , hard enough affording the R with all the mods , now this too .....never ending ...i love it ! lol