I know someone has pulled an FSI in here![]()
#1
So who out here has pulled their/an FSI engine and either rebuilt it or put a new/used one back in?
I'm not talking about switching engine codes or even transmissions, just a straight engine swap.
Long story short buddy blew his engine 2 hours after picking it up, not his fault. It was pure negligence on previous owner. Anyways, it seems the cheapest option is to get a used engine and do the swap.
Extent of damage we can see from pulling valve cover:
Hydraulic cam tensioner exploded and chain has no tension
Intake camshaft has a blown out bearing
How many valves are bent is the question
Timing belt is flappy loose
Most likely going to find metal shavings in the oil pan
So obviously a rebuild would be far more expensive because we need a new head, block needs minimum honed maybe bored and sleeved... Need all new gaskets, possibly new rods and pistons. New oil pump and pick up tube... and probably more I'm forgetting.
Anyways main question:
What would be the level of difficulty of swapping motors?
Would most likely have a Bentley manual and a VW tech helping when necessary, but the real issue is the means to the end.
Most likely going to be using jacks, stands and ramps. The tech friend says extremely difficult without a 4-point lift and the adapter plate to drop the motor out from the bottom with the trans still attached... Improbable or just a real **** sucker to do?
#2
I know someone has pulled an FSI in here![]()
#3
got mine done at the dealer..went to visit one day and it looked difficult..I wouldn't do this in my driveway on stands/ramps..
UCEURO
#4
Pull the front clip off as described in the Apr diy.
http://www.goapr.com/support/trans_fsi_ic_manual.pdf
Then:
disconnect harness/starter/alt/battery
remove shift linkages
disconnect coolant lines
disconnect fuel and evap lines
remove exhaust
remove turbo discharge
remove noise pipe
remove axles
remove pen mount
remove upper mounts
Ive pulled motors at junk yards with minimal tools and still took no more then 90 mins with everything attached. Just make sure you disconect everything before you try to slide it out. It sucks to have to remove things while the engine is half out. Good luck on the fix
#5
How the dealer does it is impossible without a 4-point lift, trans jack with adapter plate and some other tools, but that is the quickest as far as shop labor time, hence why they do it that way. But taking off the front clip and using an engine hoist is the easiest way without the dealer tools...
Ah thank you very much good sir! I will probably keep this thread once we get the engine and everything, the closest engine we found is about 92 miles away, so how to transport it is the biggest question. And we need the $2k for the engine and the extra $300 in gaskets or whatnot and then to have $500 sitting around as backup money for those "problems" you run into on a project like this. And we hope the turbo is still good... I'll talk him into a K04 or GT3071R or something if the turbo is bad because there is no better time to replace it
Oh, and I guess we will have a block/head various engine parts for sale for cheaps, although most of it will probably be toast...
#6
Not a problem.
LMK if you have any questions.
Im always looking for engine cores so lmk when you pull everything apart.
#7
Awesome thanks man. And while we do this I plan to take 1000 pictures of each step lol
not quite, but I think I'm going to use this opportunity to make a very in depth engine pull/install DIY for the FSI.
Everything is going to be labeled before we take the engine out, and everything is going to be labeled on the other engine as well...
And when we are tearing the old engine apart I'll send you pictures of the extent of the damage; it's pretty bad...
Hydraulic cam tensioner grenaded and all that due to oil pressure loss, the head definitely needs rebuilt if it can be saved, and we haven't looked at the block or the pistons yet, but I will definitely let you know what's going on when we do it.![]()
#9
Unitronic Stage III w/ PT5558BB Turbo (What a difference UNI is from APR!!)Unitronic.ca,HPFP Upgrade Stage 1 pump, 3in.TBE, BSH throttle pipe/27mm RSB/Endlinks , Forge 007 DV , RalcoRC SS, 42Draft Design CNC Shifter bushings, N2MB WOT box, BFI stage 2 motor/tranny mounts, 034 Dogbone, Koni FSD shocks, Neuspeed springs/25mm FSB, Whiteline Anti-lift kit/Front control arm bushings, 18x8.5 VMR VB3s, JBL stereo, CTS Turbo 2.0t FSI Big turbo kit!
#10
I pulled mine and rebuilt the bottom end when I put on the big turbo. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...GTX3071r-build
.doTuning
#11
#12
Instead of a new engine, pull the cylinder head off and look at the cylinder walls. If they're ok - and they probably will be, replace only the head and timing belt system. Do NOT hone the cylinders - will cause more problems than its worth. Just clean off the tops of the pistons. Should be much less time and probably less money than dealing with an unknown junkyard engine.
#13
#14
Ok, so are you saying we should buy a new head from VW? That's $1850 (with my employee discount) when we can get an engine with about 25k for $2500... seeing as how there's 140k on the bottom end already...
Once we get it to his house, we are going to tear apart the engine to see what can be used/sold and go from there...
Will have pics up when we get the car back to his place. Hopefully by this weekend.