Vag com logging..what gear?

[GLiMKIV]

I will be doing a couple logs today and I can't remember if I do it in 3rd or 4th gear since I have a six speed.

Thanks

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[GLiMKIV]

Well, I did 4th gear logging. What do you all think? This was all done at low boost.





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[jon-vw]

Go 3rd gear to redline starting at just under 3000rpms

[groggory]

Also, read my vag com FAQ

[GLiMKIV]

Go 3rd gear to redline starting at just under 3000rpms

Ok. When I dyno it do 4th right?

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[groggory]

Ok. When I dyno it do 4th right?

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4th is great....but 3rd works fine too.

[groggory]

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9842192/LOG-...RPM_Boost.xlsx

[GLiMKIV]

Looks good! Definitely looks better then my graph. LOL

[groggory]

Looks good! Definitely looks better then my graph. LOL

Couple of tips for you for next time...

1) Use a scatter plot or scatter plot with smooth lines. Do not use a line graph. This allows you to let each element on the graph have its own independent x-axis.

2) Always reference the values to a useful control variable. In our case, always reference RPM. Otherwise you can't superimpose the graphs.

3) Always use all of the data you are given. In this case, two of your blocks were recording timing. So all I did was pull out the data from both, sort by RPM, then use ALL of the data. This gives you more data points and in turn, a better more accurate graph.

4) If you choose blocks that don't have a control variable, then choose another block that DOES have a control variable. That way you have some way to make the data mean something.

When I say control variable, I don't always mean RPM. You may want to log one block for timing pull and another block for boost. Then use boost as your control variable and graph timing pull as a function of what boost you're currently running.

:-) All high school math stuff. But really handy for analyzing data.

......

On another note, that's looking pretty good! You should do another pull but capture your lambdas. Then do another pull and capture your per-cylinder timing pull.

[GLiMKIV]

Wow, I appreciate all the input! Great stuff! You were talking about timing, I thought I sent you another log that showed timing.

Check your PM.

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[groggory]

Waiting on graphs of:

115+031

Let's see what those AFR's are looking like.

If everything's good, let's bump up the timing a degree or two and see if we can squeeze some more power out of this setup.

...Also, why are you only pushing to 20 PSI? You have a GT35r. Why don't you bring it to 26 PSI for starters?

[GLiMKIV]

Waiting on graphs of:

115+031

Let's see what those AFR's are looking like.

If everything's good, let's bump up the timing a degree or two and see if we can squeeze some more power out of this setup.

...Also, why are you only pushing to 20 PSI? You have a GT35r. Why don't you bring it to 26 PSI for starters?

My friend it will have to wait until like Monday because I was using a friends cable today and he needs it because he's going out of town. He said he can get me the cable back on Monday. I gotta buy the cable myself.

In regards to running 20 PSI. I run that around town and so forth. My Hi PSI is set to 26 PSI. Would it be better when I do my logging again that I do it at 26 PSI instead?

[groggory]

Tune at 26, then dial it back

[GLiMKIV]

Tune at 26, then dial it back

Ok. I'll do that and we'll go from there. I'll set it to 26 and do my logging.

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[groggory]

Here are his logs.

My cliff notes are:

* Your AFR looks good in actuality...but your software is asking for some a really bizarre AFR curve. What software are you running again?
* You are pulling no timing...so that's really good. This means you have the potential to do some timing advance to gain some power. Don't do it yet til we do more logging to ensure your setup is @ 100%
* What turbo are you running? Your boost curve seems to ramp up a little slow.
* The logs are showing your boost max out at 22 PSI. That's normal. That's as high as the MAP sensor will read. Above that I'd just have you take a video of your boost gauge with your tach in the background. If you are telling me you're pulling 26 PSI at those high revs, I believe you. No big deal here.




http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9842192/Gene...1-115-xxx.xlsx
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9842192/Gene...0-115-xxx.xlsx

[GLiMKIV]

Thanks for the fast graphing!

Software that I'm using is Uni's 830cc Mafless file. As far as the timing goes, that last pull was with the timing advanced +1.5 in UniSettings. I'm on a GT35r (.63ar). I did a 3rd gear pull at 2400 rpm's ish. I hit 26psi on the nose. How fast should it be fully spooled? Plus I may even have the gain on the EBC set a little low. That's the great thing about the Greddy EBC, I'm able to hold that amount literally forever.

[groggory]

Thanks for the fast graphing!

Software that I'm using is Uni's 830cc Mafless file. As far as the timing goes, that last pull was with the timing advanced +1.5 in UniSettings. I'm on a GT35r (.63ar). I did a 3rd gear pull at 2400 rpm's ish. I hit 26psi on the nose. How fast should it be fully spooled? Plus I may even have the gain on the EBC set a little low. That's the great thing about the Greddy EBC, I'm able to hold that amount literally forever.

Ah, didn't realize you were on a GT35 turbo. That'll explain the spool. That spool looks fine to me then. Maybe up the gain a bit and see if that brings the spool up a little faster.

I'd be willing to go out on a limb and say you could up the timing to +3 and see where that takes you. You are getting near zero timing pull as it is. It's ok to have a little timing blip on the radar here and there. That just means you're performance tuned.

I'm really curious about that crazy AFR request curve. I have the Uni 830 MAF'less tune too and I've never seen my AFR request look like that. On the same token, your AFR actual is a little low too. I'd go do an exhaust leak check and make sure you don't have any pre-o2 leaks.

[GLiMKIV]

Ah, didn't realize you were on a GT35 turbo. That'll explain the spool. That spool looks fine to me then. Maybe up the gain a bit and see if that brings the spool up a little faster.

I'd be willing to go out on a limb and say you could up the timing to +3 and see where that takes you. You are getting near zero timing pull as it is. It's ok to have a little timing blip on the radar here and there. That just means you're performance tuned.

I'm really curious about that crazy AFR request curve. I have the Uni 830 MAF'less tune too and I've never seen my AFR request look like that. On the same token, your AFR actual is a little low too. I'd go do an exhaust leak check and make sure you don't have any pre-o2 leaks.

It's funny that you mention about an AFR leak. I installed the Greddy EBC and about two days after my car would be running super rich at idle. I've had the EBC installed for about 2-3 weeks now. Just about two days ago my AFR would go back to about 14.5-14-7 a few seconds after coming to a complete stop from it running 10.0 on my AFR gauge. Could this be a sign of a bad front O2 possibly? I'll check for any exhaust leaks in the coming days.

I'll also up the timing to +3 and go from there with some more logging.

[groggory]

It's funny that you mention about an AFR leak. I installed the Greddy EBC and about two days after my car would be running super rich at idle. I've had the EBC installed for about 2-3 weeks now. Just about two days ago my AFR would go back to about 14.5-14-7 a few seconds after coming to a complete stop from it running 10.0 on my AFR gauge. Could this be a sign of a bad front O2 possibly? I'll check for any exhaust leaks in the coming days.

I'll also up the timing to +3 and go from there with some more logging.

Don't play with timing advance just yet...let's see if we can get that AFR to behave properly...then we'll think about pushing the tune. Go do an exhaust leak check and let's make sure that the o2 sensor is getting good data.

Just keep in the back of your head that there is likely room to push the tune farther.

One rule to tuning is don't move forward til everything's working perfectly exactly where you are.

[GLiMKIV]

Don't play with timing advance just yet...let's see if we can get that AFR to behave properly...then we'll think about pushing the tune. Go do an exhaust leak check and let's make sure that the o2 sensor is getting good data.

Just keep in the back of your head that there is likely room to push the tune farther.

One rule to tuning is don't move forward til everything's working perfectly exactly where you are.

Sounds good. I'll see if I can check for any exhaust leaks today if possible and get back to you with my results.

[GLiMKIV]

I checked for leaks before the oxygen sensors. I got less than a 1/4 turn from two bolts on the downpipe on the exhaust housing. No other leaks, visibly.

Could it be a lazy front o2? Meaning because it's slow to respond?

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[groggory]

I checked for leaks before the oxygen sensors. I got less than a 1/4 turn from two bolts on the downpipe on the exhaust housing. No other leaks, visibly.

Could it be a lazy front o2? Meaning because it's slow to respond?

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You can't VISIBLY check for leaks

Go do a seafoam test per my faq

[GLiMKIV]

What I meant by leak was I tried a smoke test to see if anything was coming out of the exhaust.

What I noticed was when my car is running 12in/hg of vacuum at idle my car runs rich. When it's at 14/15 it's perfect. Could that be something to look into?

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[groggory]

What I meant by leak was I tried a smoke test to see if anything was coming out of the exhaust.

What I noticed was when my car is running 12in/hg of vacuum at idle my car runs rich. When it's at 14/15 it's perfect. Could that be something to look into?

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Are you running aftermarket cams?

[GLiMKIV]

Are you running aftermarket cams?

Factory cams for now.

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[groggory]

Factory cams for now.

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Then yes, that's a problem.

You should be running somewhere above 18 in Hg at idle.

Go pressure test your intake. Make sure there aren't any leaks.

If you find a leak, fix it.

If your idle is still not 18 or above, then start checking check valves to make sure they're working right.

If you find a problem, fix it.

If that still doesn't fix it then likely you're having some misfires and that's causing a load. A load will drop your idle vacuum. LOTS of reasons for that to happen, so let's just cross that bridge when we reach it.

[GLiMKIV]

Then yes, that's a problem.

You should be running somewhere above 18 in Hg at idle.

Go pressure test your intake. Make sure there aren't any leaks.

If you find a leak, fix it.

If your idle is still not 18 or above, then start checking check valves to make sure they're working right.

If you find a problem, fix it.

If that still doesn't fix it then likely you're having some misfires and that's causing a load. A load will drop your idle vacuum. LOTS of reasons for that to happen, so let's just cross that bridge when we reach it.

Ok, I'll start checking that this weekend and give you my results.

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[GLiMKIV]

I got to thinking last night and you said to check "check valves" to make sure they are working correctly. I've removed a lot of emissions components since I went BT back in 2008. My vacuum has always been between 14-16 in Hg since then. Could this be because I may have removed a/some check valve(s)? I will check this afternoon or tomorrow for those intake leaks. What check valves should I be looking for?

Thanks!

[groggory]

I got to thinking last night and you said to check "check valves" to make sure they are working correctly. I've removed a lot of emissions components since I went BT back in 2008. My vacuum has always been between 14-16 in Hg since then. Could this be because I may have removed a/some check valve(s)? I will check this afternoon or tomorrow for those intake leaks. What check valves should I be looking for?

Thanks!

If you've done deletes, please describe them. Preferably draw a diagram of your current vac setup too

Those deletes should not have dropped your idle vacuum

[GLiMKIV]

I checked the torque of my manifold and they needed to be torqued. The only check valve that I have is for my brake booster. I can take actual pictures of my vacuum setup if you would prefer or I can draw it.

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[groggory]

I checked the torque of my manifold and they needed to be torqued. The only check valve that I have is for my brake booster. I can take actual pictures of my vacuum setup if you would prefer or I can draw it.

Sent from a technologically advanced device.

If that's the case then you have leaks in your vac system. Maybe one of the ports you plugged on your intake manifold went bad...I dunno. But you would benefit from an intake pressure test

Have you run the seafoam test to check for exhaust leaks?

Have you pressure tested your intake to 12 PSI to check for vac leaks?

[GLiMKIV]

If that's the case then you have leaks in your vac system. Maybe one of the ports you plugged on your intake manifold went bad...I dunno. But you would benefit from an intake pressure test

Have you run the seafoam test to check for exhaust leaks?

Have you pressure tested your intake to 12 PSI to check for vac leaks?

I have not run the seafoam test yet to check for leaks. I am going to hit up my local hardware store to get some stuff to cap off my 2.5" intercooler piping to my intake and see where I may have a leak. My stepfather has a compressor so I'll see if I can head over to his place to continue diagnosis.

[GLiMKIV]

So I leak tested it and the map sensor had a huge leak. I fixed that and rechecked, could not verify another leak. Started up the car and still runs rich, even after its completely warmed up. Have not done seafoam yet.

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[groggory]

So I leak tested it and the map sensor had a huge leak. I fixed that and rechecked, could not verify another leak. Started up the car and still runs rich, even after its completely warmed up. Have not done seafoam yet.

Sent from a technologically advanced device.

Go do the seafoam too.



After both are done go read block 032 in vag com. Note the values, then clear your codes (even if you don't have any codes).

This will reset your fuel trims back down to zero.

Drive for an hour or so and then see what your block 032 values are.

If they are +/- 10%, then go do a 3rd gear pull logging blocks 115 and 031. Post up the logs. For this run do an 1800 RPM -> 6000 RPM WOT pull. Don't let up on the gas at all at any point or it'll mess up the data.

[GLiMKIV]

OK, sounds good. I'll see if my buddy will let me hold on to his VAG COM until mine shows up. Will keep you posted.