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    Thread: My 20v Timeline And Build

    1. Member formerly silveratljetta's Avatar
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      06-19-2012 08:50 PM #141
      I would find a way to get that IE clutch fork to work. Maybe grind a little material off of the pinion brace

    2. Member SB_GLI's Avatar
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      06-19-2012 09:29 PM #142
      So why do you think the rear main seal was leaking already? What are you gonna do this time around to make sure you don't have to drop the tranny again?

    3. Member One-Eight GTI's Avatar
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      06-19-2012 09:29 PM #143
      Quote Originally Posted by formerly silveratljetta View Post
      I would find a way to get that IE clutch fork to work. Maybe grind a little material off of the pinion brace
      It will involve grinding material off the IE clutchfork... Its the tig welds that are binding it up, also if you look where the bottom of the clutch fork is rubbing it actually sticks up more there than the part thats not rubbing... Not sure what I'm gonna do yet..

      I'll post a pic tomorrow about what I'm talking about, we are getting a massive down pour now and I got soaked just running in from garage
      Brute 20mm Connecting Rods, ACL Bearings, Wiseco 83mm Pistons, FSI Crank, AEB Head, CatCams 3658, PagParts GT3076R Bottom Mount V-Banded Turbo Kit, PagParts Garret 550HP Core, VF Engineering Motor Mounts, SEM IM, Labonte W/M, 70mm TB, Tial Q BOV, Tial Wastgate, Turbosmart Dual Stage Boost Controller, Peloquin LSD, Clutchmasters FX400, 910cc Injectors, IE Surge Tank, Eurodyne with Maestro.... PAGPARTS Clear Water Dubs

    4. Member One-Eight GTI's Avatar
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      06-19-2012 09:31 PM #144
      Quote Originally Posted by SB_GLI View Post
      So why do you think the rear main seal was leaking already? What are you gonna do this time around to make sure you don't have to drop the tranny again?
      There is oil droplets on my garage floor and when you look up there there is oil running down from it... Al over at PPT is sending me an 09A rear main that has a spring in it so seals better than the teflon seal... There have been other people on the forums that have had the same problem and went with this seal and no more troubles
      Brute 20mm Connecting Rods, ACL Bearings, Wiseco 83mm Pistons, FSI Crank, AEB Head, CatCams 3658, PagParts GT3076R Bottom Mount V-Banded Turbo Kit, PagParts Garret 550HP Core, VF Engineering Motor Mounts, SEM IM, Labonte W/M, 70mm TB, Tial Q BOV, Tial Wastgate, Turbosmart Dual Stage Boost Controller, Peloquin LSD, Clutchmasters FX400, 910cc Injectors, IE Surge Tank, Eurodyne with Maestro.... PAGPARTS Clear Water Dubs

    5. Member SB_GLI's Avatar
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      06-19-2012 09:39 PM #145
      I meant why do you think the seal started leaking already, not what makes you think there's an oil leak. I'd just hate to have to pull a tranny again for the same issue, ya know? Good deal that there's a better seal.

    6. Member One-Eight GTI's Avatar
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      06-19-2012 09:44 PM #146
      Quote Originally Posted by SB_GLI View Post
      I meant why do you think the seal started leaking already, not what makes you think there's an oil leak. I'd just hate to have to pull a tranny again for the same issue, ya know? Good deal that there's a better seal.
      I think it might have to do with the fact that I've had that new rear main seal in my garage for the last 2 years... I used the plastic guide that comes with it and made sure that the crank was oil free, but it just leaked anway Its not the first time this has happened to BT guys in the forum, bad luck I guess... It won't leak again once I get the new seal in
      Brute 20mm Connecting Rods, ACL Bearings, Wiseco 83mm Pistons, FSI Crank, AEB Head, CatCams 3658, PagParts GT3076R Bottom Mount V-Banded Turbo Kit, PagParts Garret 550HP Core, VF Engineering Motor Mounts, SEM IM, Labonte W/M, 70mm TB, Tial Q BOV, Tial Wastgate, Turbosmart Dual Stage Boost Controller, Peloquin LSD, Clutchmasters FX400, 910cc Injectors, IE Surge Tank, Eurodyne with Maestro.... PAGPARTS Clear Water Dubs

    7. Member schwartzmagic's Avatar
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      06-19-2012 11:17 PM #147
      Quote Originally Posted by One-Eight GTI View Post
      It will involve grinding material off the IE clutchfork... Its the tig welds that are binding it up, also if you look where the bottom of the clutch fork is rubbing it actually sticks up more there than the part thats not rubbing... Not sure what I'm gonna do yet..

      I'll post a pic tomorrow about what I'm talking about, we are getting a massive down pour now and I got soaked just running in from garage
      Another IE fail

    8. Member formerly silveratljetta's Avatar
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      06-19-2012 11:22 PM #148
      Quote Originally Posted by schwartzmagic View Post
      Another IE fail
      x2 IE should have cleaned up the tig welds before sending the parts out for anodize

    9. Member MKIII_96's Avatar
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      06-20-2012 08:07 AM #149
      it says right in the product description for the fork that you might have to grind some material off for it to fit right.

    10. Member One-Eight GTI's Avatar
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      06-20-2012 08:27 AM #150
      Quote Originally Posted by schwartzmagic View Post
      Another IE fail
      Quote Originally Posted by formerly silveratljetta View Post
      x2 IE should have cleaned up the tig welds before sending the parts out for anodize
      I wouldn't say that, I'm sure when they did the reinforcing they didn't design it to be used with the pinion brace so the welds on the side of the fork wouldn't matter... And like MKIII Said, it does say some removing of material might be needed..

      It is what it is, the tranny had to come off anyway to fix the seal so I'll grind the hell out of the brace and get it to work hopefully
      Brute 20mm Connecting Rods, ACL Bearings, Wiseco 83mm Pistons, FSI Crank, AEB Head, CatCams 3658, PagParts GT3076R Bottom Mount V-Banded Turbo Kit, PagParts Garret 550HP Core, VF Engineering Motor Mounts, SEM IM, Labonte W/M, 70mm TB, Tial Q BOV, Tial Wastgate, Turbosmart Dual Stage Boost Controller, Peloquin LSD, Clutchmasters FX400, 910cc Injectors, IE Surge Tank, Eurodyne with Maestro.... PAGPARTS Clear Water Dubs

    11. Member One-Eight GTI's Avatar
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      06-20-2012 11:57 AM #151
      Here is the pic I was talking about.... Where its rubbing its a little higher on the left side vs the right... I'll just take the grinder to the thing and grind down that area and also the welds on the pinion brace side

      Brute 20mm Connecting Rods, ACL Bearings, Wiseco 83mm Pistons, FSI Crank, AEB Head, CatCams 3658, PagParts GT3076R Bottom Mount V-Banded Turbo Kit, PagParts Garret 550HP Core, VF Engineering Motor Mounts, SEM IM, Labonte W/M, 70mm TB, Tial Q BOV, Tial Wastgate, Turbosmart Dual Stage Boost Controller, Peloquin LSD, Clutchmasters FX400, 910cc Injectors, IE Surge Tank, Eurodyne with Maestro.... PAGPARTS Clear Water Dubs

    12. 06-20-2012 01:08 PM #152
      In order to reinforce those clutch forks, we have to weld a steel plate to them. That of course will make the clutch fork thicker, and it would be tough to guarantee fitment with every single aftermarket clutch and transmission accessory on the market. Some of the aftermarket pressure plates are thicker than OE style, so clearancing is needed. That is typically just a small amount of material removed from the bottom of the fork. The pinion braces take up a good amount of space in the bell housing, and sit very close to the fork. In the case of using one of those, additional clearance can be needed, and in this case IS needed.

      They are TIG welded with great penetration, so the welds do not protrude hardly at all.

      Please check the clearance before doing the final assembly,so you don't have to pull the trans out several times. We have notes on the product listing about the clearancing that can be needed.

      -Cass
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    13. Member 18T_BT's Avatar
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      06-20-2012 01:51 PM #153
      Quote Originally Posted by Cassidy@Integrated View Post
      In order to reinforce those clutch forks, we have to weld a steel plate to them. That of course will make the clutch fork thicker, and it would be tough to guarantee fitment with every single aftermarket clutch and transmission accessory on the market. Some of the aftermarket pressure plates are thicker than OE style, so clearancing is needed. That is typically just a small amount of material removed from the bottom of the fork. The pinion braces take up a good amount of space in the bell housing, and sit very close to the fork. In the case of using one of those, additional clearance can be needed, and in this case IS needed.

      They are TIG welded with great penetration, so the welds do not protrude hardly at all.

      Please check the clearance before doing the final assembly,so you don't have to pull the trans out several times. We have notes on the product listing about the clearancing that can be needed.

      -Cass

      1st - how is a single mass FW and PP thicker then the stock/oe FW/PP? We aren't talking about twin discs here

      2nd - if it is a precision cut piece, when it's welded, why is it crooked like the picture above?

      3rd - since it's thicker than an OEM, are all of them going to need clearanced unless used on OE clutch kit set up? If that's the case, don't bother coating them red, that's for sure!

      4th - what does OE mean to you? Does that mean single mass FW or dual mass FW like OEM?

    14. Member One-Eight GTI's Avatar
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      06-20-2012 02:33 PM #154
      Quote Originally Posted by 18T_BT View Post
      1st - how is a single mass FW and PP thicker then the stock/oe FW/PP? We aren't talking about twin discs here

      2nd - if it is a precision cut piece, when it's welded, why is it crooked like the picture above?

      3rd - since it's thicker than an OEM, are all of them going to need clearanced unless used on OE clutch kit set up? If that's the case, don't bother coating them red, that's for sure!

      4th - what does OE mean to you? Does that mean single mass FW or dual mass FW like OEM?
      I'm not to worked up about the whole deal but I will say I think that the pic above doesn't do justice as to how much this thing is crooked, so here is a few more so other people that buy these things are aware of some potential grinding

      Table is level so no tricks here


      Me holding level up some so it shows how much difference there really is


      Me just letting level do its thing
      Brute 20mm Connecting Rods, ACL Bearings, Wiseco 83mm Pistons, FSI Crank, AEB Head, CatCams 3658, PagParts GT3076R Bottom Mount V-Banded Turbo Kit, PagParts Garret 550HP Core, VF Engineering Motor Mounts, SEM IM, Labonte W/M, 70mm TB, Tial Q BOV, Tial Wastgate, Turbosmart Dual Stage Boost Controller, Peloquin LSD, Clutchmasters FX400, 910cc Injectors, IE Surge Tank, Eurodyne with Maestro.... PAGPARTS Clear Water Dubs

    15. Member formerly silveratljetta's Avatar
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      06-20-2012 02:35 PM #155
      some good info being thrown around in here. I would grind it down and send back to IE for anodize

    16. Member One-Eight GTI's Avatar
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      06-20-2012 02:37 PM #156
      Quote Originally Posted by formerly silveratljetta View Post
      some good info being thrown around in here. I would grind it down and send back to IE for anodize

      Screw that I want to drive this thing, only put 100 miles on it this summer since getting it back together, don't want to wait that long.... As soon as Al gets the rear main in he will send it to me along with another release bearing (mine is fine but not chancing removing this damn tranny again for a cheap part)
      Brute 20mm Connecting Rods, ACL Bearings, Wiseco 83mm Pistons, FSI Crank, AEB Head, CatCams 3658, PagParts GT3076R Bottom Mount V-Banded Turbo Kit, PagParts Garret 550HP Core, VF Engineering Motor Mounts, SEM IM, Labonte W/M, 70mm TB, Tial Q BOV, Tial Wastgate, Turbosmart Dual Stage Boost Controller, Peloquin LSD, Clutchmasters FX400, 910cc Injectors, IE Surge Tank, Eurodyne with Maestro.... PAGPARTS Clear Water Dubs

    17. Member MKIII_96's Avatar
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      06-20-2012 07:06 PM #157
      APTuning just came out with a solid steel clutch fork. Not just an oem one with some piece welded on. Its like $250 bucks tho. I dont think its on their site yet but its on their facebook page for sure. Looks super beefy

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      06-20-2012 07:18 PM #158
      cut two piece of steel and weld them on your shift fork, make sure they go inside the fork or that will happen, takes 20 min to do including welding.

    19. Member One-Eight GTI's Avatar
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      06-20-2012 07:42 PM #159
      Quote Originally Posted by MKIII_96 View Post
      APTuning just came out with a solid steel clutch fork. Not just an oem one with some piece welded on. Its like $250 bucks tho. I dont think its on their site yet but its on their facebook page for sure. Looks super beefy
      Thats a little steep in price
      Quote Originally Posted by xtremvw3 View Post
      cut two piece of steel and weld them on your shift fork, make sure they go inside the fork or that will happen, takes 20 min to do including welding.
      Yeah I might try doing that, this IE one needs to much grinding done
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    20. Banner Advertiser pete@integrated's Avatar
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      06-20-2012 10:46 PM #160
      Quote Originally Posted by 18T_BT View Post
      1st - how is a single mass FW and PP thicker then the stock/oe FW/PP? We aren't talking about twin discs here

      2nd - if it is a precision cut piece, when it's welded, why is it crooked like the picture above?

      3rd - since it's thicker than an OEM, are all of them going to need clearanced unless used on OE clutch kit set up? If that's the case, don't bother coating them red, that's for sure!

      4th - what does OE mean to you? Does that mean single mass FW or dual mass FW like OEM?

      1-They are all over the place... Some of the aftermarket ones will even hit the inside of the bellhousing itself over top of the pinion, depends how hammered the guy was who measured up that particular flywheel usually. Google it- tons of clearance issues on 02a/j's - they are just really tight- then you add a decently thick brace to the fork which is normally tight anyways, and this is what you get.


      2- It's laser cut, but the factory arm is NOT flat at all, so it has to be bent into shape to fit. The factory arm is also not consistently cut out along the edges as it is just a stamping... Then it's not exact an exact science of bending the heck out of things to make it work... If you want exact, buy the $300 billet ones- we'd be happy to make them, except they will be $300 and nobody will buy them, and it's not possible to add much more meat in there anyways, so for all that money it's not really doing all that much more.


      3- No, but it does depend on the clutch / flywheel you are using.

      If you weld it up on the inside, you lose much of the strengthening- and you can't brace it near the throw out bearing which is where the arm experiences the most stress. We weld them solid on the inside to add as much meat as possible, and then use the thickest brace plate possible- the thick stuff isn't ultra easy to shape over that bump, as you can see.

      As far as the sides go, they fit just fine in stock bellhousings without the pinion brace. That bellhousing is just tight as hell and when you start adding things and putting extra everything in there, clearances MUST be checked and the trans turned over, everything wiggled around- as soon as the trans goes on. I would do this even with a stock fork, as I said- it's not that unusual for the clutches to also hit the bellhousings.



      The real solution is to get an 02m and be done with all of this.
      Last edited by pete@integrated; 06-20-2012 at 10:58 PM.
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      06-20-2012 10:50 PM #161
      Quote Originally Posted by One-Eight GTI View Post
      Thats a little steep in price


      Yeah I might try doing that, this IE one needs to much grinding done

      Zing it on a belt sander or shoot it back to us and I would be happy to sort it out for you and have the guys respray it as well.
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    22. 06-20-2012 11:10 PM #162
      Some sidenotes on seals....
      If it doesn't have a spring....I don't use the thing.
      I dont use any of the new style cam seals with no spring either. I just get old 8v cam seals and use them. The trick is to pack the back side of the seal with grease. I use some trans lube that dissolves in oil but you can use your typical molly. Packing the backside of the seal with grease helps keep the spring intact when installing the seal. I've done boatloads of seals like this over the years and never had one come back.

    23. 06-20-2012 11:11 PM #163
      Quote Originally Posted by pete@integrated View Post
      Zing it on a belt sander or shoot it back to us and I would be happy to sort it out for you and have the guys respray it as well.
      Quality service right there!

    24. Member One-Eight GTI's Avatar
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      06-21-2012 08:08 AM #164
      Quote Originally Posted by pete@integrated View Post
      The real solution is to get an 02m and be done with all of this.
      Thats not gonna happen till this transmission explodes... I already have 900 in LSD, 800-900 for the clutch, 100 and some for your brace and something for Vaps brace, Not everyone is made of money If I could do it all over again I might of bought a used 02M and bought the LSD ect , too late for that now...

      Quote Originally Posted by pete@integrated View Post
      Zing it on a belt sander or shoot it back to us and I would be happy to sort it out for you and have the guys respray it as well.
      I'll take care of it Pete, I'm not too concerned with the cosmetics of the brace as no one can see it anyway, Thanks for the offer though
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    25. Member 18T_BT's Avatar
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      06-21-2012 02:32 PM #165
      Quote Originally Posted by pete@integrated View Post
      1-They are all over the place... Some of the aftermarket ones will even hit the inside of the bellhousing itself over top of the pinion, depends how hammered the guy was who measured up that particular flywheel usually. Google it- tons of clearance issues on 02a/j's - they are just really tight- then you add a decently thick brace to the fork which is normally tight anyways, and this is what you get.


      2- It's laser cut, but the factory arm is NOT flat at all, so it has to be bent into shape to fit. The factory arm is also not consistently cut out along the edges as it is just a stamping... Then it's not exact an exact science of bending the heck out of things to make it work... If you want exact, buy the $300 billet ones- we'd be happy to make them, except they will be $300 and nobody will buy them, and it's not possible to add much more meat in there anyways, so for all that money it's not really doing all that much more.


      3- No, but it does depend on the clutch / flywheel you are using.

      If you weld it up on the inside, you lose much of the strengthening- and you can't brace it near the throw out bearing which is where the arm experiences the most stress. We weld them solid on the inside to add as much meat as possible, and then use the thickest brace plate possible- the thick stuff isn't ultra easy to shape over that bump, as you can see.

      As far as the sides go, they fit just fine in stock bellhousings without the pinion brace. That bellhousing is just tight as hell and when you start adding things and putting extra everything in there, clearances MUST be checked and the trans turned over, everything wiggled around- as soon as the trans goes on. I would do this even with a stock fork, as I said- it's not that unusual for the clutches to also hit the bellhousings.



      The real solution is to get an 02m and be done with all of this.

      So, you are blaming it on the brace? That's what is causing your shift fork to hit the PP? That doesn't sound right to me. I've installed numerous clutches on 02J's and none of them have come close to doing this. Granted I don't use pinion braces or multi disc clutches. I find it hard to believe that I am just lucky.


    26. Member One-Eight GTI's Avatar
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      06-21-2012 06:06 PM #166
      Quote Originally Posted by pete@integrated View Post
      the factory arm is NOT flat at all, so it has to be bent into shape to fit. The factory arm is also not consistently cut out along the edges as it is just a stamping... Then it's not exact an exact science of bending the heck out of things to make it work...

      the thick stuff isn't ultra easy to shape over that bump, as you can see.
      Pete, don't mean to beat a dead horse but I just looked at my factory clutchfork and it looks pretty damn isometrical... I don't know if you got a hell of a price on a bunch of clutch fork factory rejects and bought them and welded the plates on to make them reinforced or what but look at the pics below comparing yours with my factory one with 100,000 miles on it... In the pic you can see that the fork you sent me musta been screwed up big time as the reinforced plate hits that bump in the fork... Look at the factory one, it shouldn't hit at all, Maybe when the insides got all welded in it distorted them or something



      Brute 20mm Connecting Rods, ACL Bearings, Wiseco 83mm Pistons, FSI Crank, AEB Head, CatCams 3658, PagParts GT3076R Bottom Mount V-Banded Turbo Kit, PagParts Garret 550HP Core, VF Engineering Motor Mounts, SEM IM, Labonte W/M, 70mm TB, Tial Q BOV, Tial Wastgate, Turbosmart Dual Stage Boost Controller, Peloquin LSD, Clutchmasters FX400, 910cc Injectors, IE Surge Tank, Eurodyne with Maestro.... PAGPARTS Clear Water Dubs

    27. Member schwartzmagic's Avatar
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      06-21-2012 10:22 PM #167
      Oooofffffffff

      Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2

    28. Member One-Eight GTI's Avatar
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      06-21-2012 11:03 PM #168
      Quote Originally Posted by schwartzmagic View Post
      Oooofffffffff
      No this is OOOOFFFF

      Took of flywheel to get to rear main seal and look what I found... Keep in mind my ARPFlywheel bolts with red locktite where still torqued and not loose whatsoever



      This is my Brand new 2.0 crank above, guess what I'm doing this weekend

      here is the back of my flywheel, NOTICE THE OVALED HOLES, and remember my bolts were still tight




      Maybe its just me jumping to conclusions because I'm pi$$ed off but the only way I can think of this happening is from my pressure plate smacking against a little red piece in my bellhousing and jarring my flywheel ect

      Pulling my engine this weekend hopefully and sending crank to Al over at PPT to machine it true again, and order more seals and a new flywheel ect
      Brute 20mm Connecting Rods, ACL Bearings, Wiseco 83mm Pistons, FSI Crank, AEB Head, CatCams 3658, PagParts GT3076R Bottom Mount V-Banded Turbo Kit, PagParts Garret 550HP Core, VF Engineering Motor Mounts, SEM IM, Labonte W/M, 70mm TB, Tial Q BOV, Tial Wastgate, Turbosmart Dual Stage Boost Controller, Peloquin LSD, Clutchmasters FX400, 910cc Injectors, IE Surge Tank, Eurodyne with Maestro.... PAGPARTS Clear Water Dubs

    29. 06-22-2012 06:17 AM #169
      That is very odd and I hate it for you
      I don't think the IE part could have caused that. That looks like loose bolts but if they were tight..they were tight...I am very interested to find the culprit of that..good luck man!

    30. 06-22-2012 06:48 AM #170
      Are the bolts too long? If they were to bottom out you would just be torquing the bolt to the hole and the flywheel would be loss, might feel tight but the head of the bolt wouldn't be torgued against the flywheel.

    31. Member SB_GLI's Avatar
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      06-22-2012 08:03 AM #171
      Oh man Brad. That really sucks.

    32. Member One-Eight GTI's Avatar
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      06-22-2012 08:11 AM #172
      Quote Originally Posted by Twopnt016v View Post
      That is very odd and I hate it for you
      I don't think the IE part could have caused that. That looks like loose bolts but if they were tight..they were tight...I am very interested to find the culprit of that..good luck man!
      Yeah I don't know what the hell caused this because those bolts were tight, red locktite does wonders, used my impact to get them off...

      Quote Originally Posted by hnhracing View Post
      Are the bolts too long? If they were to bottom out you would just be torquing the bolt to the hole and the flywheel would be loss, might feel tight but the head of the bolt wouldn't be torgued against the flywheel.
      No they were the same bolts I've already used previously, there ARP so you can use them again

      Quote Originally Posted by SB_GLI View Post
      Oh man Brad. That really sucks.
      I know, I hope I can get it going by mid July so I can hang out with you guys again this year
      Brute 20mm Connecting Rods, ACL Bearings, Wiseco 83mm Pistons, FSI Crank, AEB Head, CatCams 3658, PagParts GT3076R Bottom Mount V-Banded Turbo Kit, PagParts Garret 550HP Core, VF Engineering Motor Mounts, SEM IM, Labonte W/M, 70mm TB, Tial Q BOV, Tial Wastgate, Turbosmart Dual Stage Boost Controller, Peloquin LSD, Clutchmasters FX400, 910cc Injectors, IE Surge Tank, Eurodyne with Maestro.... PAGPARTS Clear Water Dubs

    33. 06-22-2012 08:35 AM #173
      If you used those bolts before that should rule that out also. I was having issues with some ecs lug nuts coming loose on my front wheels with spacers. They would come loose(torqued properly) and the wheel spacer and rotor has scaring marks just like that.

    34. Member sabbySC's Avatar
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      06-22-2012 08:50 AM #174
      Dirt between the mating surfaces perhaps?
      CTS gt3071r and more

    35. Member 18T_BT's Avatar
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      06-22-2012 01:12 PM #175
      That's not dirt my man

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