My 20v Timeline And Build

[formerly silveratljetta]

I would find a way to get that IE clutch fork to work. Maybe grind a little material off of the pinion brace

[SB_GLI]

So why do you think the rear main seal was leaking already? What are you gonna do this time around to make sure you don't have to drop the tranny again?

[One-Eight GTI]

I would find a way to get that IE clutch fork to work. Maybe grind a little material off of the pinion brace

It will involve grinding material off the IE clutchfork... Its the tig welds that are binding it up, also if you look where the bottom of the clutch fork is rubbing it actually sticks up more there than the part thats not rubbing... Not sure what I'm gonna do yet..

I'll post a pic tomorrow about what I'm talking about, we are getting a massive down pour now and I got soaked just running in from garage

[One-Eight GTI]

So why do you think the rear main seal was leaking already? What are you gonna do this time around to make sure you don't have to drop the tranny again?

There is oil droplets on my garage floor and when you look up there there is oil running down from it... Al over at PPT is sending me an 09A rear main that has a spring in it so seals better than the teflon seal... There have been other people on the forums that have had the same problem and went with this seal and no more troubles

[SB_GLI]

I meant why do you think the seal started leaking already, not what makes you think there's an oil leak. I'd just hate to have to pull a tranny again for the same issue, ya know? Good deal that there's a better seal.

[One-Eight GTI]

I meant why do you think the seal started leaking already, not what makes you think there's an oil leak. I'd just hate to have to pull a tranny again for the same issue, ya know? Good deal that there's a better seal.

I think it might have to do with the fact that I've had that new rear main seal in my garage for the last 2 years... I used the plastic guide that comes with it and made sure that the crank was oil free, but it just leaked anway Its not the first time this has happened to BT guys in the forum, bad luck I guess... It won't leak again once I get the new seal in

[schwartzmagic]

It will involve grinding material off the IE clutchfork... Its the tig welds that are binding it up, also if you look where the bottom of the clutch fork is rubbing it actually sticks up more there than the part thats not rubbing... Not sure what I'm gonna do yet..

I'll post a pic tomorrow about what I'm talking about, we are getting a massive down pour now and I got soaked just running in from garage

Another IE fail

[formerly silveratljetta]

Another IE fail

x2 IE should have cleaned up the tig welds before sending the parts out for anodize

[MKIII_96]

it says right in the product description for the fork that you might have to grind some material off for it to fit right.

[One-Eight GTI]

Another IE fail

x2 IE should have cleaned up the tig welds before sending the parts out for anodize

I wouldn't say that, I'm sure when they did the reinforcing they didn't design it to be used with the pinion brace so the welds on the side of the fork wouldn't matter... And like MKIII Said, it does say some removing of material might be needed..

It is what it is, the tranny had to come off anyway to fix the seal so I'll grind the hell out of the brace and get it to work hopefully

[One-Eight GTI]

Here is the pic I was talking about.... Where its rubbing its a little higher on the left side vs the right... I'll just take the grinder to the thing and grind down that area and also the welds on the pinion brace side

[Cassidy@Integrated]

In order to reinforce those clutch forks, we have to weld a steel plate to them. That of course will make the clutch fork thicker, and it would be tough to guarantee fitment with every single aftermarket clutch and transmission accessory on the market. Some of the aftermarket pressure plates are thicker than OE style, so clearancing is needed. That is typically just a small amount of material removed from the bottom of the fork. The pinion braces take up a good amount of space in the bell housing, and sit very close to the fork. In the case of using one of those, additional clearance can be needed, and in this case IS needed.

They are TIG welded with great penetration, so the welds do not protrude hardly at all.

Please check the clearance before doing the final assembly,so you don't have to pull the trans out several times. We have notes on the product listing about the clearancing that can be needed.

-Cass

[18T_BT]

In order to reinforce those clutch forks, we have to weld a steel plate to them. That of course will make the clutch fork thicker, and it would be tough to guarantee fitment with every single aftermarket clutch and transmission accessory on the market. Some of the aftermarket pressure plates are thicker than OE style, so clearancing is needed. That is typically just a small amount of material removed from the bottom of the fork. The pinion braces take up a good amount of space in the bell housing, and sit very close to the fork. In the case of using one of those, additional clearance can be needed, and in this case IS needed.

They are TIG welded with great penetration, so the welds do not protrude hardly at all.

Please check the clearance before doing the final assembly,so you don't have to pull the trans out several times. We have notes on the product listing about the clearancing that can be needed.

-Cass

1st - how is a single mass FW and PP thicker then the stock/oe FW/PP? We aren't talking about twin discs here

2nd - if it is a precision cut piece, when it's welded, why is it crooked like the picture above?

3rd - since it's thicker than an OEM, are all of them going to need clearanced unless used on OE clutch kit set up? If that's the case, don't bother coating them red, that's for sure!

4th - what does OE mean to you? Does that mean single mass FW or dual mass FW like OEM?

[One-Eight GTI]

1st - how is a single mass FW and PP thicker then the stock/oe FW/PP? We aren't talking about twin discs here

2nd - if it is a precision cut piece, when it's welded, why is it crooked like the picture above?

3rd - since it's thicker than an OEM, are all of them going to need clearanced unless used on OE clutch kit set up? If that's the case, don't bother coating them red, that's for sure!

4th - what does OE mean to you? Does that mean single mass FW or dual mass FW like OEM?

I'm not to worked up about the whole deal but I will say I think that the pic above doesn't do justice as to how much this thing is crooked, so here is a few more so other people that buy these things are aware of some potential grinding

Table is level so no tricks here


Me holding level up some so it shows how much difference there really is


Me just letting level do its thing

[formerly silveratljetta]

some good info being thrown around in here. I would grind it down and send back to IE for anodize

[One-Eight GTI]

some good info being thrown around in here. I would grind it down and send back to IE for anodize

Screw that I want to drive this thing, only put 100 miles on it this summer since getting it back together, don't want to wait that long.... As soon as Al gets the rear main in he will send it to me along with another release bearing (mine is fine but not chancing removing this damn tranny again for a cheap part)

[MKIII_96]

APTuning just came out with a solid steel clutch fork. Not just an oem one with some piece welded on. Its like $250 bucks tho. I dont think its on their site yet but its on their facebook page for sure. Looks super beefy

[xtremvw3]

cut two piece of steel and weld them on your shift fork, make sure they go inside the fork or that will happen, takes 20 min to do including welding.

[One-Eight GTI]

APTuning just came out with a solid steel clutch fork. Not just an oem one with some piece welded on. Its like $250 bucks tho. I dont think its on their site yet but its on their facebook page for sure. Looks super beefy

Thats a little steep in price

cut two piece of steel and weld them on your shift fork, make sure they go inside the fork or that will happen, takes 20 min to do including welding.

Yeah I might try doing that, this IE one needs to much grinding done

[pete@integrated]

1st - how is a single mass FW and PP thicker then the stock/oe FW/PP? We aren't talking about twin discs here

2nd - if it is a precision cut piece, when it's welded, why is it crooked like the picture above?

3rd - since it's thicker than an OEM, are all of them going to need clearanced unless used on OE clutch kit set up? If that's the case, don't bother coating them red, that's for sure!

4th - what does OE mean to you? Does that mean single mass FW or dual mass FW like OEM?

1-They are all over the place... Some of the aftermarket ones will even hit the inside of the bellhousing itself over top of the pinion, depends how hammered the guy was who measured up that particular flywheel usually. Google it- tons of clearance issues on 02a/j's - they are just really tight- then you add a decently thick brace to the fork which is normally tight anyways, and this is what you get.


2- It's laser cut, but the factory arm is NOT flat at all, so it has to be bent into shape to fit. The factory arm is also not consistently cut out along the edges as it is just a stamping... Then it's not exact an exact science of bending the heck out of things to make it work... If you want exact, buy the $300 billet ones- we'd be happy to make them, except they will be $300 and nobody will buy them, and it's not possible to add much more meat in there anyways, so for all that money it's not really doing all that much more.


3- No, but it does depend on the clutch / flywheel you are using.

If you weld it up on the inside, you lose much of the strengthening- and you can't brace it near the throw out bearing which is where the arm experiences the most stress. We weld them solid on the inside to add as much meat as possible, and then use the thickest brace plate possible- the thick stuff isn't ultra easy to shape over that bump, as you can see.

As far as the sides go, they fit just fine in stock bellhousings without the pinion brace. That bellhousing is just tight as hell and when you start adding things and putting extra everything in there, clearances MUST be checked and the trans turned over, everything wiggled around- as soon as the trans goes on. I would do this even with a stock fork, as I said- it's not that unusual for the clutches to also hit the bellhousings.



The real solution is to get an 02m and be done with all of this.

[pete@integrated]

Thats a little steep in price


Yeah I might try doing that, this IE one needs to much grinding done

Zing it on a belt sander or shoot it back to us and I would be happy to sort it out for you and have the guys respray it as well.

[Twopnt016v]

Some sidenotes on seals....
If it doesn't have a spring....I don't use the thing.
I dont use any of the new style cam seals with no spring either. I just get old 8v cam seals and use them. The trick is to pack the back side of the seal with grease. I use some trans lube that dissolves in oil but you can use your typical molly. Packing the backside of the seal with grease helps keep the spring intact when installing the seal. I've done boatloads of seals like this over the years and never had one come back.

[Twopnt016v]

Zing it on a belt sander or shoot it back to us and I would be happy to sort it out for you and have the guys respray it as well.

Quality service right there!

[One-Eight GTI]

The real solution is to get an 02m and be done with all of this.

Thats not gonna happen till this transmission explodes... I already have 900 in LSD, 800-900 for the clutch, 100 and some for your brace and something for Vaps brace, Not everyone is made of money If I could do it all over again I might of bought a used 02M and bought the LSD ect , too late for that now...

Zing it on a belt sander or shoot it back to us and I would be happy to sort it out for you and have the guys respray it as well.

I'll take care of it Pete, I'm not too concerned with the cosmetics of the brace as no one can see it anyway, Thanks for the offer though

[18T_BT]

1-They are all over the place... Some of the aftermarket ones will even hit the inside of the bellhousing itself over top of the pinion, depends how hammered the guy was who measured up that particular flywheel usually. Google it- tons of clearance issues on 02a/j's - they are just really tight- then you add a decently thick brace to the fork which is normally tight anyways, and this is what you get.


2- It's laser cut, but the factory arm is NOT flat at all, so it has to be bent into shape to fit. The factory arm is also not consistently cut out along the edges as it is just a stamping... Then it's not exact an exact science of bending the heck out of things to make it work... If you want exact, buy the $300 billet ones- we'd be happy to make them, except they will be $300 and nobody will buy them, and it's not possible to add much more meat in there anyways, so for all that money it's not really doing all that much more.


3- No, but it does depend on the clutch / flywheel you are using.

If you weld it up on the inside, you lose much of the strengthening- and you can't brace it near the throw out bearing which is where the arm experiences the most stress. We weld them solid on the inside to add as much meat as possible, and then use the thickest brace plate possible- the thick stuff isn't ultra easy to shape over that bump, as you can see.

As far as the sides go, they fit just fine in stock bellhousings without the pinion brace. That bellhousing is just tight as hell and when you start adding things and putting extra everything in there, clearances MUST be checked and the trans turned over, everything wiggled around- as soon as the trans goes on. I would do this even with a stock fork, as I said- it's not that unusual for the clutches to also hit the bellhousings.



The real solution is to get an 02m and be done with all of this.

So, you are blaming it on the brace? That's what is causing your shift fork to hit the PP? That doesn't sound right to me. I've installed numerous clutches on 02J's and none of them have come close to doing this. Granted I don't use pinion braces or multi disc clutches. I find it hard to believe that I am just lucky.

[One-Eight GTI]

the factory arm is NOT flat at all, so it has to be bent into shape to fit. The factory arm is also not consistently cut out along the edges as it is just a stamping... Then it's not exact an exact science of bending the heck out of things to make it work...

the thick stuff isn't ultra easy to shape over that bump, as you can see.

Pete, don't mean to beat a dead horse but I just looked at my factory clutchfork and it looks pretty damn isometrical... I don't know if you got a hell of a price on a bunch of clutch fork factory rejects and bought them and welded the plates on to make them reinforced or what but look at the pics below comparing yours with my factory one with 100,000 miles on it... In the pic you can see that the fork you sent me musta been screwed up big time as the reinforced plate hits that bump in the fork... Look at the factory one, it shouldn't hit at all, Maybe when the insides got all welded in it distorted them or something

[schwartzmagic]

Oooofffffffff

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2

[One-Eight GTI]

Oooofffffffff

No this is OOOOFFFF

Took of flywheel to get to rear main seal and look what I found... Keep in mind my ARPFlywheel bolts with red locktite where still torqued and not loose whatsoever



This is my Brand new 2.0 crank above, guess what I'm doing this weekend

here is the back of my flywheel, NOTICE THE OVALED HOLES, and remember my bolts were still tight




Maybe its just me jumping to conclusions because I'm pi$$ed off but the only way I can think of this happening is from my pressure plate smacking against a little red piece in my bellhousing and jarring my flywheel ect

Pulling my engine this weekend hopefully and sending crank to Al over at PPT to machine it true again, and order more seals and a new flywheel ect

[Twopnt016v]

That is very odd and I hate it for you
I don't think the IE part could have caused that. That looks like loose bolts but if they were tight..they were tight...I am very interested to find the culprit of that..good luck man!

[hnhracing]

Are the bolts too long? If they were to bottom out you would just be torquing the bolt to the hole and the flywheel would be loss, might feel tight but the head of the bolt wouldn't be torgued against the flywheel.

[SB_GLI]

Oh man Brad. That really sucks.

[One-Eight GTI]

That is very odd and I hate it for you
I don't think the IE part could have caused that. That looks like loose bolts but if they were tight..they were tight...I am very interested to find the culprit of that..good luck man!

Yeah I don't know what the hell caused this because those bolts were tight, red locktite does wonders, used my impact to get them off...

Are the bolts too long? If they were to bottom out you would just be torquing the bolt to the hole and the flywheel would be loss, might feel tight but the head of the bolt wouldn't be torgued against the flywheel.

No they were the same bolts I've already used previously, there ARP so you can use them again

Oh man Brad. That really sucks.

I know, I hope I can get it going by mid July so I can hang out with you guys again this year

[Twopnt016v]

If you used those bolts before that should rule that out also. I was having issues with some ecs lug nuts coming loose on my front wheels with spacers. They would come loose(torqued properly) and the wheel spacer and rotor has scaring marks just like that.

[sabbySC]

Dirt between the mating surfaces perhaps?

[18T_BT]

That's not dirt my man