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    Thread: So much hate towards temp gauge.

    1. Member vwlippy's Avatar
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      04-20-2012 09:37 AM #1
      So, a few months ago temp gauge stopped working. I replaced coolant temp sensor first since it was cheap and easy to replace. No fixy.

      Next, off to the dealer. I assumed they would replace the thermostat - based on what I've read on here. NOPE, they said my after run/secondary water pump failed. They replaced, car worked fine for 3+ months.

      Yesterday, temp gauge dies. 24 hrs its working again.

      Seriously... why would they design a temp gauge to stop working when something was wrong with the cooling system. Dumbest idea ever. Thats when you need the gauge the MOST!

    2. Member Rub-ISH's Avatar
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      04-20-2012 09:53 AM #2
      did they change the thermostat? most likely that is still and issue if they didn't
      Quote Originally Posted by Hunter S Thompson
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    3. Member vwlippy's Avatar
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      04-22-2012 01:09 AM #3
      No they didn't. It worked fine for 3 months after I got it back, but that has to be the problem now.

    4. Member Travis Grundke's Avatar
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      04-22-2012 09:25 AM #4
      It's the thermostat. Add it to the list of items that are guaranteed to fail on this puppy. Based on the number of people with this issue I think it's time to start pushing Audi of America for a service campaign on this part.

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      04-22-2012 02:41 PM #5
      Is this an easy replacement?
      #KeepFightingMichael

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      04-22-2012 03:21 PM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by everfresh59 View Post
      Is this an easy replacement?
      Hahahaha. It's an Audi.
      Quote Originally Posted by MachnickiA3 View Post
      stick that in your "fleshy patch"

    7. Member vwlippy's Avatar
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      04-23-2012 12:17 AM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by everfresh59 View Post
      Is this an easy replacement?
      Not really. You have to remove the alternator to get to it. blah

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      04-23-2012 12:49 AM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by vwlippy View Post
      Not really. You have to remove the alternator to get to it. blah
      So it's the labor that rapes you in the end...
      #KeepFightingMichael

    9. Member Travis Grundke's Avatar
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      04-23-2012 11:04 AM #9
      From the discussions I've been following the cost is between $400-$600.

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      04-23-2012 11:46 AM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by Travis Grundke View Post
      From the discussions I've been following the cost is between $400-$600.
      Probably safe to say that this should be swapped when doing timing belt replacement... which sucks, since I had mine done last year...
      #KeepFightingMichael

    11. Member rick89's Avatar
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      04-23-2012 11:51 AM #11
      My temp gauge is acting funny as well. Somtimes it works and sometimes it does not.

    12. Member vwlippy's Avatar
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      04-23-2012 11:54 AM #12
      Quote Originally Posted by everfresh59 View Post
      Probably safe to say that this should be swapped when doing timing belt replacement
      Sounds like a good idea.

    13. Member Travis Grundke's Avatar
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      04-23-2012 01:12 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by everfresh59 View Post
      Probably safe to say that this should be swapped when doing timing belt replacement... which sucks, since I had mine done last year...
      You know, I'm coming up on the timing belt anyhow - that's a *great* idea.

    14. Member Rub-ISH's Avatar
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      04-23-2012 03:42 PM #14
      not only does the alternator come out...but usually they will pull the intake manifold as well
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    15. Member SilverSquirrel's Avatar
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      04-23-2012 06:27 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by Rub-ISH View Post
      not only does the alternator come out...but usually they will pull the intake manifold as well
      not too bad on the 3.2 engine. remove the airbox, (drain the coolant) disconnect some hoses and wires, and you can get to the tstat housing.
      Audi is the girl who was really cute in high school, but now puts on way too much makeup in order to try and hang out with the hot girls.

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      04-23-2012 07:23 PM #16
      can this also be done if you decide to clean the intake valves?
      #KeepFightingMichael

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      04-24-2012 04:12 PM #17
      My temp gauge just crapped out also... BUT I have a check engine light also. Since I don't have a Vag-com I can't check the code but I do have an Appt. with the dealer tomorrow. Hopefully I won't get raped.

    18. 04-24-2012 09:11 PM #18
      I did the thermostat replacement myself (on the 2.0 BPY engine). A few things I would have done differently;

      1) Remove both battery cables (negative first), your alternator connects directly to the battery. Use WD-40 to free the alternator bushings. I tried multiple hours refusing to use any chemicals on my alternator and the bushings are stuck to the extend that I guarantee you no human being is able to free them as described in the repair manual. Just a little bit is enough.
      2) you will need to disconnect turbo air charge line; don't remain underneath it while disconnecting (unless you care for an oil-shower)
      3) I used rhino ramps, getting underneath the car will be required.
      4) some quick-disconnects are not that quick or simple; a second hand is helpful (he/she taps on them lightly while you are yanking the connection)

      and good luck, I spent 7+ hours. If you know what you are doing and have all the tools (XZN bits will be required too) it should be a 2 hour job. Take your time filling and adding coolant; it is easy to create an air-lock situation and you may ruin the head gasket...
      Last edited by ma2kster; 04-25-2012 at 08:43 AM.

    19. 04-24-2012 09:18 PM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by Spitzbergen View Post
      My temp gauge just crapped out also... BUT I have a check engine light also. Since I don't have a Vag-com I can't check the code but I do have an Appt. with the dealer tomorrow. Hopefully I won't get raped.
      At the outset the bad thermostat causes Pending-DTCs, then (I assume with a preset number of unsatisfied ECT conditions) it becomes permanent, and CEL comes on. I have vag-com, and was able to diagnose in detail; the fact is even-though the ECT is 75- 80 degrees (read through the MVB using vag-com) the instrument cluster gauge would go straight down to Cold... I think this is designed intentionally to tell/show the driver that there is something wrong with the engine cooling. In short, the symptoms definitely sounds like the thermostat; I was given a quote of $530 in the Washington DC area. Then I did the job myself, was $35 + coolant and lots of shop towels realized... Furthermore it took me two weeks to find a shop to accept the recovered coolant. It is highly toxic and very bad for the environment, shouldn't be dumped anywhere (please). Autozone or Advanced Auto doesn't take it either...
      Last edited by ma2kster; 04-24-2012 at 10:07 PM.

    20. Member vwlippy's Avatar
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      04-25-2012 09:15 AM #20
      Quote Originally Posted by ma2kster View Post
      I think this is designed intentionally to tell/show the driver that there is something wrong with the engine cooling.
      Yeah, except this is when you need to be able to read the gauge the most!

    21. 04-25-2012 10:59 AM #21
      Quote Originally Posted by vwlippy View Post
      Yeah, except this is when you need to be able to read the gauge the most!
      I haven't experienced an overheat situation (thank God), and I'm assuming the gauge quits working and points towards the "Cold" limit when the thermostat is stuck open/or prematurely open. I agree with you that the gauge is most needed when the temperature is abnormal. Perhaps, it is an exaggerated display of the normal than cooler operating temperatures. I'm sure it doesn't work the same-way when you have an overheating engine. I think the ECU keeps count of time since engine start-up/warm-ups and if the ECT doesn't reach a target value within a preset time then you start getting these DTCs (first pending DTC). I remember seeing a reference to this somewhere on the VCDS screen.

    22. Member mike3141's Avatar
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      04-25-2012 12:52 PM #22
      The thermostat may not be stuck open when the system kills the temp gauge. The ECU programming monitors the coolant temperature and will kill the gauge if the coolant doesn't follow the profile that the ECU expects based on external temp, revs, etc. What usually happens is that the thermostat weakens over time and may open too soon or too late. We're now seeing the results mostly on '06 models (my previous '06 included).

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      04-26-2012 09:09 AM #23
      I have the same issue. I will try a coolant swap with G12 first before going to the t-stat. Since usually you swap the coolant during a t-stat change I'm guessing that at least half of the reported temp gauge issues are actually coolant related and no t-stat.

      Read the last few posts of this thread

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea.....-HELP!/page2

    24. 04-26-2012 09:36 AM #24
      My 06 just started having this symptom as well!!!
      84K on her so far.

    25. Member SilverSquirrel's Avatar
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      04-26-2012 09:39 AM #25
      Quote Originally Posted by Barn01 View Post
      I have the same issue. I will try a coolant swap with G12 first before going to the t-stat. Since usually you swap the coolant during a t-stat change I'm guessing that at least half of the reported temp gauge issues are actually coolant related and no t-stat.

      Read the last few posts of this thread

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea.....-HELP!/page2
      the last post is the only factual one... the nonsense about the coolant's physical properties have nothing to do with this issue.
      you are wasting g12 without doing the thermostat.

      replace thermostat.
      fill with fresh g12 or better 50/50, and move along.
      Audi is the girl who was really cute in high school, but now puts on way too much makeup in order to try and hang out with the hot girls.

    26. Member vwlippy's Avatar
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      04-26-2012 10:55 PM #26
      Back from the dealer. No surprise, thermostat was replaced.

      Also, while it was there they replaced the PCV valve (which I had already replaced on my own last year) and the Intake Manifold Flap Actuator for free under warranty.

      I think the PCV valve is a little different than the one I replaced. Maybe they updated the part again?

    27. Member Travis Grundke's Avatar
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      04-27-2012 07:59 AM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by vwlippy View Post
      Back from the dealer. No surprise, thermostat was replaced.

      Also, while it was there they replaced the PCV valve (which I had already replaced on my own last year) and the Intake Manifold Flap Actuator for free under warranty.

      I think the PCV valve is a little different than the one I replaced. Maybe they updated the part again?
      How much for the t-stat replacement?

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      04-27-2012 09:24 AM #28
      Thermostat good, sensor bad. Along with an oil change cost me a little over $200.00. I also got a new crank case breather valve and intake flap motor replaced under warranty. Thank you Audi.

    29. Member Travis Grundke's Avatar
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      04-27-2012 10:52 AM #29
      The dealership will always want to replace the sensor first - it will work for a week or so, then you'll be back to the same problem.

      It's the thermostat, guaranteed.

      This problem is affecting just about everyone that's creeping over the 75,000 mile mark.

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      04-27-2012 11:01 AM #30
      isn't a t-stat like 40$...
      #KeepFightingMichael

    31. Member mike3141's Avatar
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      04-27-2012 11:29 AM #31
      The trick is getting access to it.....

    32. Member vwlippy's Avatar
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      04-27-2012 03:32 PM #32
      Quote Originally Posted by mike3141 View Post
      The trick is getting access to it.....
      Exactly.
      I think the part is listed for $47, plus charges for a seal and coolant. Expect to drop about $500. Thankfully I had a $50 off coupon I received in the mail.

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