upgrade that bar to the garbage or make it smaller if you want to kick out the rear end more in corners.
#1
So I'm going to be dropping the k-frame to mess with the steering rack. It would be a good time to remove the front swaybar if I so choose. Anyone have auto-x experience before and after removing the front sway bar?
I am running an Neuspeed front bar, Shine rear bar, KW V3s with 512 lb/in front springs and 350 lb/in rear springs. Corner weights are near perfect and the front/rear balance is a horrific 62/38. This was after relocating the battery to the passenger side rear of the hatch, but before pitching the A/C system and power steering system (this weekend).
I've been auto-x'ing for the past 5 years, but I've always had the front bar on there. The car tends to understeer a little more than oversteer when pushed hard, but when the conditions are right, the rear end steps out a little.
WWVD? (what would Vortex do?)
-Wayne
#2
upgrade that bar to the garbage or make it smaller if you want to kick out the rear end more in corners.
Forced convection.... Now we grillin.
Some times she goes, some times she doesn't.... Way of the road
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#3
I wouldn't lose the front sway bar completely - just reinstall the stock front sway bar.
If you don't have a stock front sway bar you can have mine (it would be awesome if you would help me install my new one though)
#4
Poop. I wish I would've asked earlier. I think putting a stock front bar back in would'e been a good intermediate step (if I still had it). I reinstalled the k-frame last night and left the Neuspeed swaybar in there. I figured I'd leave it since I just changed the springs to a 25% higher rate. I probably shouldn't change too many variables at one time.
I can definitely give you a hand when you install yours.
When are we gonna see you at some local auto-x's?
#5
When my suspension stops sucking. One of my rear coilovers is leaking a bit (Koni should warranty it) and the damping adjuster on one of the front coilovers is seized. I need to have all my coilovers rebuilt.
Despite having under 15,000 miles on my:
R32 control arm bushings
New stock front control arm bushings
Balljoints
Tie rod ends
Motor mounts
Subframe bushings
Steering rack bushing,
I still have a disgusting clunking/popping in the front end. It happens when I let off the gas or accelerate hard. One of my axles is new too. The whole front end is just crap![]()
Last edited by EnIgMa '06; 04-25-2012 at 09:53 PM.
#6
Wayne - I noticed that you have changed out your springs on the KW V3s a couple of times. Do you have any of the old springs? I'm looking to up the spring rates on my Konis (and switch to linear springs).
#7
Yes, I have the stockers. They are 60mm I.D. springs. Fronts are 70kg/mm (400 lb/in) and 170mm (6.7") free length. The rears are 50kg/mm (250 lb/in) and 200mm (7.9") free length. If those are an upgrade for you and the numbers work out, they're yours.
-Wayne
#8
Hmmmm OK, let me look into it. Are they linear springs, or progressive?
I still need to get my coil overs rebuilt (scared of how much it may cost).
#9
Linear rate. I don't have any extra helper springs though...
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