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    Thread: IDF Tubular Control Arm Thoughts/Review

    1. Member 01Jetta20VT's Avatar
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      06-29-2012 11:47 PM #26
      Quote Originally Posted by son of planrforrobert View Post


      I'd be interested in seeing a step-by-step on installing your subframe setup.
      We have a customer scheduled in a few weeks for a subframe, we will definitely do a write up!

      Quote Originally Posted by arethirdytwo View Post
      1. Car in air

      2. Wheels off

      3. Dogbone off

      4. Remove splash guards (torx)

      5. Remove 02 harness cover on trailing edge of subframe (if you have one)

      6. Remove the six nuts holding your balls joints to your control arms.

      7. Place jack under the subframe with some padding if you don't want to mar anything.

      8. Pull the four steering rack bolts.

      9. Loosen the four stretch bolts in the subframe (I think they are like 21/19)

      10. Allow subrame to drop some yet remain supported by the jack.

      11. Wiggle loose the steering rack from the subframe, sometimes it's a bit stuck on there.

      12. Remove four subframe bolts and make sure the control arms and balljoints are separate.

      13. Lower jack.

      Then go have some sex.

      Opps you said installation. Do that backwards
      There's quite a bit more to it than that

    2. Member plastic_bullet's Avatar
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      06-30-2012 12:00 AM #27
      Like what? And what do they cost?

    3. Member arethirdytwo's Avatar
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      06-30-2012 12:06 AM #28
      Haha. Please continue? Don't make my tired ass go make a subframe out in 10 minutes video. Are we talking a sectioned subframe? If that's that case... throw in a notch, some tierod clearance I'd never play with the sectioned subframe without R/TT spindles.

      Quote Originally Posted by 01Jetta20VT View Post
      We have a customer scheduled in a few weeks for a subframe, we will definitely do a write up!



      There's quite a bit more to it than that

    4. Member 01Jetta20VT's Avatar
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      06-30-2012 09:56 AM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by arethirdytwo View Post
      Haha. Please continue? Don't make my tired ass go make a subframe out in 10 minutes video. Are we talking a sectioned subframe? If that's that case... throw in a notch, some tierod clearance I'd never play with the sectioned subframe without R/TT spindles.
      Yes sectioned... You also need to make room for the rack to move up inside the firewall, where the column connects. You dont need R/TT spindles either, the subframe not only lets you go lower, but it brings the geometry back ion check, getting rid of the positive camber with airlift struts.



      You can trim the stock rubber seal and flip it.^



      This is without R spindles running airlift slam xls ^


    5. Member arethirdytwo's Avatar
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      06-30-2012 09:58 AM #30
      Nice. Any side shots?

    6. Member 01Jetta20VT's Avatar
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      06-30-2012 10:08 AM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by arethirdytwo View Post
      Nice. Any side shots?
      I dont have any with his wheels on. This is the only half decent shot I have...


    7. Member arethirdytwo's Avatar
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      06-30-2012 10:12 AM #32
      Nice. I'd have to bow out, maybe a half inch section? If I went down an inch I would have to trim/section my skirts and bumper. I'd also have to actually tub the inner wells. Would be fun though

    8. Member 01Jetta20VT's Avatar
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      06-30-2012 02:18 PM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by arethirdytwo View Post
      Nice. I'd have to bow out, maybe a half inch section? If I went down an inch I would have to trim/section my skirts and bumper. I'd also have to actually tub the inner wells. Would be fun though
      With a half inch section, you wouldn't need to trim the firewall for the steering rack

    9. Member DUBgoon's Avatar
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      07-18-2012 09:33 PM #34
      Quote Originally Posted by 01Jetta20VT View Post
      We have a customer scheduled in a few weeks for a subframe, we will definitely do a write up!
      Any update on a write up?
      Quote Originally Posted by TeamZleep View Post
      Old guy walked up and said: "You know washing your car doesn't make it faster, right?"
      I popped the hood and replied: "Yeah... But that turbo does."

    10. Member son of planrforrobert's Avatar
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      10-06-2012 08:01 PM #35
      Reviving this. I made it through the car show season with ZERO issues with these control arms. The car made it to SoWo, Cult Classic, VAG Fair, and h2oi (with trips to First Class Fitment and Toys 4 Tots still coming). They've 100% held and I would recommend them to anyone.

    11. Former Advertiser
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      10-27-2012 11:41 PM #36
      Anymore info on these IDF Subframes?

      would like more info / photos.

      This extra 1 inch of clearence you speak of. I assume thats without motor mount spacers? So just the subframe alone will give you the ability to lay frame rail?

      Very Interested

    12. Member Twilliams83's Avatar
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      10-28-2012 01:45 AM #37
      Quote Originally Posted by CULVER View Post
      Anymore info on these IDF Subframes?

      would like more info / photos.

      This extra 1 inch of clearence you speak of. I assume thats without motor mount spacers? So just the subframe alone will give you the ability to lay frame rail?

      Very Interested
      i believe you run motor mount spacers with these.
      ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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    13. Junior Member
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      02-25-2013 02:33 AM #38
      Did anyone else have to clean out a load of weld splatter from the thread holes? These things took so long to come, I figured they'd be perfect on arrival. Now I've got to go grab a tap to clean out all the **** in the threads. Awesome work.

    14. Member Chriskugel's Avatar
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      02-26-2013 03:00 AM #39
      Quote Originally Posted by SamS3 View Post
      Did anyone else have to clean out a load of weld splatter from the thread holes? These things took so long to come, I figured they'd be perfect on arrival. Now I've got to go grab a tap to clean out all the **** in the threads. Awesome work.
      Mine shall be here friday Ill let you know if they have "a load of weld splatter"

    15. Member son of planrforrobert's Avatar
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      02-26-2013 11:58 AM #40
      Mine had a little bit of splatter in them, but it was nothing a small wire brush and some compressed air couldn't fix.

    16. Junior Member
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      02-26-2013 03:18 PM #41
      Apparently it's not spatter but beads from bead blasting. Still, a bit frustrating. Hopefully yours are ok.

    17. Junior Member
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      02-26-2013 03:19 PM #42
      Yeah I'll try and get a small wire brush in there.

    18. 09-23-2013 12:37 AM #43
      Anyone have a copy of the instructions specifying how far to thread the rose joints in?

    19. Member
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      04-22-2014 01:04 PM #44
      I'm interested in getting these for my 2000 MK4.
      I'm about stock ride height, but
      1. have to replace my LCA bushings and
      2. want to be able adjust camber.

      Questions:
      1. How many miles do you(s) have on them?
      2. How do you think they will hold up as a daily driver with winters/salt etc?
      3. It seems cheaper and easier to do these than the TT LCAs. Can the TTs be done without doing other parts?

      Thanks in Advance,
      TomJV

    20. Member
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      05-08-2014 07:43 PM #45
      Well, they're in. It took me most of two days. (Ha! :45. I guess I'm a loser! LOL)
      I agree that the job is "straight forward". I mean it's only a few nuts and bolts right? I've done a million brake jobs, strut swaps motor mounts(no clutches or head work), but this one was a PITA I think. I did run into some probs though.

      First off, the product:
      My IDF LCas came in a couple of days. I gather they keep one set in stock, because they had them ready to go.
      Out of the box IDF LCAs look impressive and high quality. I'd recommend them based on site and feel. The customer service is a bit tight lipped, but the guy is actually very nice when you get used to his style.

      Next, the job:
      -The rubber boots, while necessary are just a PITA to put on(like all rubbers).
      They go on though(like all rubbers).

      -The instructions tell you to measure 1 9/16" (I believe) from the center of the heim to the arm. It's tricky and not exact. The heims have the rubbers on them and they move every which way(which is what they're supposed to do. The conical shims are loose and moving all around also.
      It gets done though.

      -The arms don't just slide in. You have to twist/adjust the heims to get both sides to slide in. First, I simply unscrewed one side until they went in. After thinking it over and doing the other side, I decided to unscrew both heims an equal amount(rather than just one the full amt). I therefore had to re-do the first one. No big deal.
      It got done though.

      -I found the OEM LCA connection to the ball joint a PITA to get apart. I just needed another 1/4" and it would have popped off. It fought me the whole way. I wound up tapping the triangular ball joint pad with a ball peen(it rotates) and that got it.
      They came off though.

      Next, the problems:
      1. The passenger side forward control arm bolt hits the oil pan(doesn't come out). You have to drop the subframe or jack the motor. I opted for the latter, which worked fine. It just took an extra bit of time to undo the doggie and motormount bolt.

      2. The driver side control arm link attachment hole was not threaded correctly on my product. It took me a couple of trips to some stores and calls to customer service to finally figure it out. I didn't want to just crank it in etc. I wound up buying a 10mm x 1.5 ptich tap(not the easiest thing to find. Most tool stores don't sell any taps let alone metric ones. Service Star had it! A true old fashioned hardware store) and cleaning out the threads. This worked fine.

      3. Lastly, the front wheels wound up really splayed! So much so, I couldn't drive it. I had to figure out how to do a pseudo alignment. The tie rods are a rusted mess so it took me a while to get it going. I wound up unscrewing them quite a bit and adjusting the ball joints. How much can you go?

      In the end, the car drives weird! A couple of times around the block was not inspiring, on the contrary, it was unnerving. I'm gonna limp to the alignment guy ASAP and see if he can get it going. I didn't notice any extra noise yet though. The knocking sound I had (prolly from the OEM LCA bushings) seems to be gone, horray!










      TomJV
      Last edited by tomjv; 05-14-2014 at 12:46 PM.

    21. Member
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      05-09-2014 01:52 PM #46
      Well I had the aligment done. Actually, I had it pretty close. The guy got up on his haunches because I wanted the r/s camber adjusted. "It's toe only on these cars, sir. That's aftermarket!" Calm down clown! First off, don't call me "sir". I've been coming here for 20 f*&*ing years, my name is "Tom". Second, excuse me for not realizing that the camber adjustment only comes with the MK3 because it's stock. FINE! So I paid $40 extra. WTF . . . Mavis.

      Anyway, what really matters, HOW IT DRIVES!

      1. Excessive Vibration, NOT! Right off the bat I can tell you(s), the car rides like stock, noise-wise. There's no huge increase in cabin noise and road noise etc. There is some extra "feeback", but it's minimal and totally drivable as a DD. As someone said, the LCAs are most noticeable on bumps with short wave length and high amplitude, like poor expansion joints. Speed bumps, no prob. It's not like the steering wheel is vibrating, but it's "there". If someone put them in your car, you probably wouldn't notice them for a few miles and then you wouldn't think something was broken.

      The car definitely steers quicker and is more responsive. The front end feels lighter. Understeer feels decreased. Overall you feel more connected and confident. Are they worth $600? I'm not going to make that call. I like them and am glad (so far) I did them. I'd recommend them to anyone who considers themselves a driving enthusiast. That said, I'm gonna buy a set of spare heims to have on had, just in case.

      Additional: I now have about 100 miles of highway and local miles on them. I can say, I notice them most when doing the local roads that are a mess around here. The roads that the state has seen fit to only blacktop the outer half with a skip coat and over the winter has chipped off and been repatched in spots. It's now a mess and I find it annoying even in my bone stock normally quiet Honda Ridgline. On these streets, I indeed notice the difference. I'M STILL NOT DISSATISFIED. Just putting it out there.

      TomJV

      I have about 300 miles on these parts now. I have knocking when I brake or accelerate (launch). I thought about it and recalled that I reused the stretch bolts on the LCAs (front and rear). I torqued them all to 52ft/lbs. It didn't feel like it was tight enough to me. It certainly wasn't as tight as I had to loosen them. Anyway, I turned them a 1/4 turn more each(the rears in particular, turned easy) and the noises decreased. I'm gonna call VW today and replace the 4 bolts and re-torque and stretch them properly to see if this helps.

      Aside from all that, the arms are great! The car is just WAY tight. It holds a line better that ever at speed.
      It's harsh on roads that look like acne potmarks, yes. I can feel expansion joints more, yes.
      On twisty parkways (here in NY), on throttle or off, the car holds it's line. If you see a pothole, just flick your wrist and you move 6" over, then hold your new line NP.
      I took a clover leaf the other day(nobody was around and there was a big ugly gaurd rail) at like 60. Zero understeer. I could have pushed it more. I can see why the track guys like these. The front end feels rock solid. The original poster said he could "feel the tires breaking loose", I concur. You can feel the front tires walking across the pavement. The rears are sticking. I mean the tires are the weak point now. The car is very predictable.

      TomJV
      Last edited by tomjv; 05-14-2014 at 07:29 AM.

    22. Member
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      05-19-2014 05:25 PM #47
      I said:
      I have about 300 miles on these parts now. I have knocking when I brake or accelerate (launch). I thought about it and recalled that I reused the stretch bolts on the LCAs (front and rear). I torqued them all to 52ft/lbs. It didn't feel like it was tight enough to me. It certainly wasn't as tight as I had to loosen them. Anyway, I turned them a 1/4 turn more each(the rears in particular, turned easy) and the noises decreased. I'm gonna call VW today and replace the 4 bolts and re-torque and stretch them properly to see if this helps.

      UPDATE:
      I went to VW and bought new LCA bolts for $25. Installed the bolts and all noises are gone.
      TomJV

    23. Member plastic_bullet's Avatar
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      05-23-2014 09:22 PM #48
      I just want to thank you for following through with updates. It seems like nobody ever does.

      So for you sir, uh... I mean Tom.



      Sent from my Apple II using ProTERM.

    24. Member
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      05-29-2014 04:26 PM #49
      Hey NP,
      I hate reading dead end threads too!
      TomJV

    25. Member Vee-DubbVR6's Avatar
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      05-29-2014 04:51 PM #50
      great feedback, Tom - thank you!

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