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    VWVortex


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    Thread: 90 Quattro Sedan Rebuild

    1. n00b
      Join Date
      Apr 22nd, 2012
      Location
      Colorado Springs
      Posts
      6
      Vehicles
      1980 Datsun 280ZX, 1987 Toyota MR2 MK1, 1990 Audi 90 Quattro
      04-22-2012 05:19 PM #1
      Hello guys, I am new to the forum and I have quite a few questions about my new car. It is a 1990 Audi 90 Quattro sedan with the DOHC 20 valve engine. I purchased it non-running figuring that it "should" be a simple fix, of course I was wrong. I was able to get it running after about 2 hours worth of work but there was a nasty tick coming from the engine. Right away I figured that it was a valve due to it being an interference engine and the PO said he did the timing belt recently. After a bit of dissecting I discovered that both intake valves for cylinder number 4 made contact with the piston and destroyed both themselves and the head. Initially I had a difficult time sourcing a head for my price range (I'm 17 without a job, still in high school) but a friend of mine sourced me a good one for $120. So now I am in the process of replacing the piston, and getting the head back on. I do have a few questions though.
      1. How do I time the cams? I had to use the cams from the old head and I don't know how to time them.
      2. In order to remove the oil pan, do I have to remove the sway bar mounts? Or am I simplily able to slide it out?

      Thanks in advance, I am still trying to figure out how to upload pictures. -Jared

    2. Member
      Join Date
      Nov 19th, 2008
      Location
      Atlanta-Chicago
      Posts
      814
      Vehicles
      92 verde rado gernade(dd),90Q 20v, red rado 24v build
      04-22-2012 07:20 PM #2
      Why are removing the pistons? If the valves just tap them, and didn't hurt them. I would leave the pistons alone. If want take pistons out, need raise the engine with a engine brace and remove the oil pan or remove the whole engine from car. Get a bentley book or cd first. It will have torque spec and timing too. As far for cylinder head, I recommend new valve stem seals put in. Top end like to burn oil from worn valve stem seals. Bottom end are almost bullet proof.If you dont have the tools, buy some! Also recommend get the cylinder head built by machine shop for valve stem seals and check it's striaght and pressure and leak test it too. also go to 20v.org it has good information on 20v stuff. Also check out motorgeek.com, there plenty info on there forums.

    3. n00b
      Join Date
      Apr 22nd, 2012
      Location
      Colorado Springs
      Posts
      6
      Vehicles
      1980 Datsun 280ZX, 1987 Toyota MR2 MK1, 1990 Audi 90 Quattro
      04-22-2012 08:05 PM #3
      Good questions and advice! I did forget to include some details. I'm removing the piston for cylinder number four due to a 2mm gouge that was put into it due to the broken valve. When I measured the new head for warp there wasn't any and the valve seals are practically brand new. I was worried that I would have to slightly hoist the engine in order to remove the pan. Once I figure out how to upload pictures I'll post some of the damage to the head and piston. All the other pistons are in good shape so I'm not going to touch them. -Jared

    4. n00b
      Join Date
      Apr 22nd, 2012
      Location
      Colorado Springs
      Posts
      6
      Vehicles
      1980 Datsun 280ZX, 1987 Toyota MR2 MK1, 1990 Audi 90 Quattro
      04-23-2012 09:37 PM #4
      How about a full walk-around video? I mention the issues that I have as well as some questions. It might help explain the issue a bit better. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PPil...60AUAAAAAAAAAA

    5. Member
      Join Date
      Nov 19th, 2008
      Location
      Atlanta-Chicago
      Posts
      814
      Vehicles
      92 verde rado gernade(dd),90Q 20v, red rado 24v build
      04-24-2012 07:42 AM #5
      Nice beetle. few things you want to do when you have it apart. Upgrade the injectors. Original hatichi injectors are junk. Either 034 7A upgrade or there few guys selling there setup too. Some guys are using the metal head gasket instead of the paper gasket. More durable. It from 20vt. Also make sure you have heat shield on those bag of snake, it will kill your throttle position sensor, that no longer made. Also use some sealant with new valve cover gasket from leaking again. Also, you have euro quad lights. make sure there have relay harness in them, it give them more power for headlights and doesnt kill your light switch, lastly you can run higher wattage bulbs with relay harness,

    6. n00b
      Join Date
      Apr 22nd, 2012
      Location
      Colorado Springs
      Posts
      6
      Vehicles
      1980 Datsun 280ZX, 1987 Toyota MR2 MK1, 1990 Audi 90 Quattro
      06-18-2012 12:27 AM #6
      Thanks for the info man! I am still working on removing the oil pan. I removed all of the bolts from the oil pan and it moves, but it won't come out. Any ideas on how to get it off?

    7. n00b
      Join Date
      Apr 22nd, 2012
      Location
      Colorado Springs
      Posts
      6
      Vehicles
      1980 Datsun 280ZX, 1987 Toyota MR2 MK1, 1990 Audi 90 Quattro
      07-15-2012 02:35 AM #7
      Nevermind, figured out all the issues on my own except for a few. The engine is complete again and I just have to static time the distributor and shes all set to go. The only problem I currently have is the timIng belt sits really close to the valve cover. Every time I move it flush with the cam timing gear it always moves back. Weird

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