2012 GOLF R Leather Interior Cleaner/Protectant Products

[.:R Driven]

Hello All,

As the title states. I bought a Golf R and it's my first leather I would like some opinions on product to keep it clean and soft for many years to come. I've narrow it down to the two products below. I know Lenox has been around for years.

Sonax Leather Foam 400 ML


Product link below
http://www.autogeek.net/sonax-leather-foam.html

Lexol 3-in-1 Leather Care Spray - 16 oz


Product link below
http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-3-Leathe.../dp/B002ZBPX1S

I have this anyone ever use it on leather?



Gold R rear seat. Had this car about 2 weeks now

[BORA RSI]

I love Sonax. Cleans and protects great.

[.:R Driven]

I love Sonax. Cleans and protects great.

How long have you been using it? does it do a great job keeping the leather soft.

[Jman5000]

1Z's vinyl conditioner, or 303 protectant are both good options because you're protecting the leather's clearcoat.

This clearcoat blocks stuff like body oil, grime, and liquid from getting into the hide, so rubbing oily lotions on it will do nothing but provide a temporary change before evaporating - and setting a stage to only collect grime.

Treat the clearcoat and it'll stay flexible and provide a good look, longer.

[David802]

I've been using Lexol for a year or so and it does a great job, keeps the leather very soft and supple. I do prefer the 2 step process though, you can get it at autozone. It seems like the general internet consensus is that you can't clean and condition at the same time. I've never read positive review on a leather care product that was an all in 1 cleaner/conditioner. Here's a picture of what I use.



P.S. You must post pictures of the R.

[trainwrecks]

1Z's vinyl conditioner, or 303 protectant are both good options because you're protecting the leather's clearcoat.

This clearcoat blocks stuff like body oil, grime, and liquid from getting into the hide, so rubbing oily lotions on it will do nothing but provide a temporary change before evaporating - and setting a stage to only collect grime.

Treat the clearcoat and it'll stay flexible and provide a good look, longer.

X2......clean with a 10:1 woollite and protect with 303 and your leather will thank you, thats what i do........$0.02

[.:R Driven]

I ordered the Sonax and the 3in1 Lenox and 1 gallon of 303. I will to get a feel for which I will like.

The 303 is a great product

[.:R Driven]

The Golf R as requested



I wanted to be present for the PDI. I did not have to wash the car


That's right 2 of them










Someone is learning


First Official Golf R REVO Flashed/Testing 4.20.12 @ Summit Park Raceway Track



First Wash





And these guys

[.:R Driven]

Please chime in

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...8#post77131678

[vr6fanatic]

I've been using Lexol for a year or so and it does a great job, keeps the leather very soft and supple. I do prefer the 2 step process though, you can get it at autozone. It seems like the general internet consensus is that you can't clean and condition at the same time. I've never read positive review on a leather care product that was an all in 1 cleaner/conditioner. Here's a picture of what I use.



P.S. You must post pictures of the R.

I also use this and I have been for years now.

Sweet R

[718Dub]

I have an Audi s4 with the leather recaro seats and use lexol. Works great.

Love that car and crazy that you can wash your car in a "public" garage like that.

[FliGi7]

I don't use anything special or dedicated for "leather" as I find it unnecessary and improper marketing. As already stated in here, the leather in our (and most) vehicles has a vinyl topcoat, which is the surface you're actually treating and caring for. It doesn't absorb foam or conditioner as one would come to expect based on the products on the market. I can't say it doesn't absorb anything at all as I can't prove that, but it can certainly be stated that it doesn't absorb anything to the point that leather conditioners actually have any effect other than leaving a shine on the surface that will just rub off on your clothing until it's gone.

In light of this, I clean my leatherette seats twice a year with 10:1 Woolite/Water and a soft leather/vinyl scrub brush (something like a soft fingernail brush) and follow up with a mix of about 6-10:1 303/Water solution as a UV protectant for the vinyl topcoat on the material. I've had my car 3.5 years and the seats are indistinguishable from brand new. Contrary to popular belief, the key to keeping your seats in good condition has much more to do with keeping them clean than "conditioned".

[trainwrecks]

I don't use anything special or dedicated for "leather" as I find it unnecessary and improper marketing. As already stated in here, the leather in our (and most) vehicles has a vinyl topcoat, which is the surface you're actually treating and caring for. It doesn't absorb foam or conditioner as one would come to expect based on the products on the market. I can't say it doesn't absorb anything at all as I can't prove that, but it can certainly be stated that it doesn't absorb anything to the point that leather conditioners actually have any effect other than leaving a shine on the surface that will just rub off on your clothing until it's gone.

In light of this, I clean my leatherette seats twice a year with 10:1 Woolite/Water and a soft leather/vinyl scrub brush (something like a soft fingernail brush) and follow up with a mix of about 6-10:1 303/Water solution as a UV protectant for the vinyl topcoat on the material. I've had my car 3.5 years and the seats are indistinguishable from brand new. Contrary to popular belief, the key to keeping your seats in good condition has much more to do with keeping them clean than "conditioned".

well said sir....

[pwaug]

I don't use anything special or dedicated for "leather" as I find it unnecessary and improper marketing. As already stated in here, the leather in our (and most) vehicles has a vinyl topcoat, which is the surface you're actually treating and caring for. It doesn't absorb foam or conditioner as one would come to expect based on the products on the market. I can't say it doesn't absorb anything at all as I can't prove that, but it can certainly be stated that it doesn't absorb anything to the point that leather conditioners actually have any effect other than leaving a shine on the surface that will just rub off on your clothing until it's gone.

In light of this, I clean my leatherette seats twice a year with 10:1 Woolite/Water and a soft leather/vinyl scrub brush (something like a soft fingernail brush) and follow up with a mix of about 6-10:1 303/Water solution as a UV protectant for the vinyl topcoat on the material. I've had my car 3.5 years and the seats are indistinguishable from brand new. Contrary to popular belief, the key to keeping your seats in good condition has much more to do with keeping them clean than "conditioned".

+2 Same here--clean twice a year with 15:1 Woolite and soft brush, wipe down regularly with a damp towel (let it air dry) and twice a year apply Optimum Protectant which is water based and adds UV protection. Very important to keep the leather hydrated--no oils, lanolin etc My six year old Passat leather is like new.

[.:R Driven]

Thanks for everyones input on this

[pwaug]

From another post by TOGWT :

Hydration – when leather tanner’s talk about conditioning leather they are referring to re-hydration; in order to restore or maintain fluid balance (transpiration and evaporation of moisture); not the replenishment or replacement of the fat liquoring, oils and / or waxes.
Water molecules are smaller than the molecules found in polyurethane top coats, so it can permeate the finish in vapour form. This is essential to restore the suppleness and maintain leathers natural flexibility and keeps the leather at its optimum physical performance level, along with softness and strength.

Modern finished leather needs to be kept hydrated with moisture to ensure the leather remains flexible and maintains its soft tactile feel. This is done by regularly wiping the surface with a damp 100% cotton micro fibre towel and by using aqueous (water- based) leather care products. There is no reason to use oil-based leather care products to condition or feed leather hides .

[.:R Driven]

From another post by TOGWT :

Hydration – when leather tanner’s talk about conditioning leather they are referring to re-hydration; in order to restore or maintain fluid balance (transpiration and evaporation of moisture); not the replenishment or replacement of the fat liquoring, oils and / or waxes.
Water molecules are smaller than the molecules found in polyurethane top coats, so it can permeate the finish in vapour form. This is essential to restore the suppleness and maintain leathers natural flexibility and keeps the leather at its optimum physical performance level, along with softness and strength.

Modern finished leather needs to be kept hydrated with moisture to ensure the leather remains flexible and maintains its soft tactile feel. This is done by regularly wiping the surface with a damp 100% cotton micro fibre towel and by using aqueous (water- based) leather care products. There is no reason to use oil-based leather care products to condition or feed leather hides .

I think I'll do some research on all 3 of these products