VWVortex.com - The long-awaited "MkII FAQ/DIY Thread
Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up


    Page 2 of 20 FirstFirst 12345612 ... LastLast
    Results 26 to 50 of 488

    Thread: The long-awaited "MkII FAQ/DIY Thread

    1. Member Batan's Avatar
      Join Date
      Dec 15th, 2000
      Vancouver, BC
      10-31-2002 12:21 PM #26
      Rear disc brakes on 8V GTI
      Came on 8V GTI stock in 85/86
      When 16V came out, the 8V GTI lost it's rear discs to drums.
      8V stock power(NA non-Cali cars):
      85 100HP
      86 to Digifant - 102HP
      Digifant - 105HP
      16V stock power
      1.8 16v - 123Hp in NA(139 in Europe)
      2.0 16V - 134Hp in NA(? in Europe?)

    2. Senior Member PowerDubs's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 22nd, 2001
      10-31-2002 12:41 PM #27
      All Coupes and all GLIs were made in Germany. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]


    3. 10-31-2002 03:37 PM #28
      this is the greatest thread ever. Keep 'em coming guys.

    4. 10-31-2002 05:14 PM #29
      How To Strip and Polish Factory Teardrop Wheels

    5. Banned
      Join Date
      Jan 26th, 2002
      10-31-2002 06:03 PM #30
      Lay Flat Rear Wiper....
      1. 13mm socket, loosen retaining nut thats on the wiper, this holds to the spindle. then remove arm.
      2. Remove trim panel from inside hatch.
      3. Loosen retaining nut from the lever. Rotate the motor splines 180 degrees.
      4. Replace wiper arm, and align properly to bottom of rear window.
      5. Bolt wiper back on, and your done!
      Havent done this myself, dont like the look that much, but a lot do, so enjoy and good luck!

    6. Member Fettes Brot's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 25th, 2001
      Calgary, AB
      2017 VW Golf R 6spd, 2017 Honda Pilot Touring
      10-31-2002 06:10 PM #31
      Restoring faded bumpers:
      Kiwi Leather Shoe Dye

    7. 10-31-2002 07:12 PM #32
      how to polish an intake manifold:

    8. Member Rassig's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 4th, 2001
      Chicago, IL
      '86 GTI 8v
      10-31-2002 10:58 PM #33
      Q: What are the options for headlights on my A2?
      A: Stock Quad Round http://the16v.com/images/vw/djk/lites/djkround.jpg
      Stock Rectangular (Aero) http://the16v.com/images/vw/86/86front.jpg
      Single Round http://the16v.com/images/vw/djk/lites/djk91_lrp.jpg
      Single Round w/badgless grill http://the16v.com/images/vw/djk/lite...badgeless2.jpg
      Rallye Golf conversion http://the16v.com/images/vw/djk/lite...16v_rallye.jpg
      Add to that:
      Clear e-code aeros: Vortex mod Cullen's site http://www.vwonline.info ; http://www.parts4vws.com ; http://www.pgperformance.com ; http://www.amimotorsports.com
      Smoked e-code aeros: http://www.futrellautowerkes.com ; http://www.amimotorsports.com

      [Modified by niels_dale, 10:13 PM 10-31-2002]

    9. Member nickinboston's Avatar
      Join Date
      Sep 7th, 2001
      1991 GTI 16v
      10-31-2002 11:04 PM #34
      The starter used on German made car and Mexican made car is the almost the same and will work on either car without any modification at all. You can use the starter from a German made 8v on a Mexican made 16v and vice versa. To determine if you car is German made or Mexican made look at your VIN and if it begins with WVW its German and if it begins with 3VW its mexican.
      The reason I note this is because when I priced starters the one for a German car was $100 cheaper than the one for a Mexican made car.

      vedubya (1:18 PM 11-1-2002): hey dude you might want to add 1VW - pennsylvania to your A2 FAQ post, just a suggestion

      [Modified by nickinboston, 8:48 PM 11-1-2002]

    10. Member
      Join Date
      Oct 23rd, 2001
      1989 Cabriolet, 1984 633CSi, 1971 240z, 2006 EX500
      11-01-2002 01:53 AM #35
      okay, here's my contribution, the new used car shopper's checklist. stolen from one of my own posts a while back.
      Most of it's basic used car shopping. Assuming a stick here. Autos, well... skip the MT parts and substitute appropriate AT observations
      So you wanna buy your first A2/Mk2?
      1) Look for RUST. that includes bubbled paint. replaceable panels okay, unit-body bad.
      - a) cowl (around front windshield)
      - b) B/C pillars (around side windows on body)
      - c) strut towers (rear and front. Open trunk/hatch, open hood.
      - d) wheel wells (towards the back, where the tires will throw water)
      2) walk around the car.
      - a) kick the wheels at the top, front and back. any movement?
      - b) are the tires nice and evenly worn down? believe it or not, bald tires are your friend, as that means the suspension/alignment are good enough to wear em out. Watch out for any uneven wear patterns, or brand new tires when everything else looks neglected.
      - c) look at the door, hatch and hood seams. Are all the body panels lined up, or have they been pulled off and rehung (out of perfect factory square)?
      - d) is the paint basically all the same color? Generally one side will have faded slightly more than others, so a gradual fade pattern is okay, but keep an eye out for individually resprayed panels, or other signs of accident repair, particularly if the owner claims it's never been in an accident.
      3) Look under the hood.
      - a) any big oil drips?
      - b) if not, does it look steam cleaned? i.e. is it TOO clean, like someone's covering up a leak? ideally you want to see signs of maintenance having been done.
      - c) open the coolant reservoir. nice and green/red/amber? any metallic stuff?
      - d) pull the dipstick. Oil topped up? either clear-amber or black? any milkiness? Feel it. nice and slippery, or at all gritty?
      - e) open the oil filler cap, same question.
      - f) grab the clutch cable. slight slack? grab the lever it's attached to. come up to level, then get firm?
      - g) how do the battery cables look? any corrosion?
      - h) any signs of repaired cables, hoses, etc?
      4) Head inside.
      - a) sunroof? any hints of water inside?
      - b) headliner? It's often falling off. Realize that if it's falling off at all, it's going to finish falling off. you'll nee to remove it and scrape all the foam off before you can spray new adhesive to reattach.
      - c) clutch pedal. can you feel the engagement point? does it move straight in and out or wobble side to side a bit? how's the brake pedal feel?
      - d) shifter. is the pattern clean or are you making spaghetti? (cheap quick fix, but good bargaining point). Stick it in 3rd, any side to side movement? any back and forth slop?
      - e) shifter again. Is reverse lockout working or can you shove it straight over? (cheap not quite as quick fix, better bargaining point.)
      Drive test:
      1) insert key. wiggle. loose or snug?
      2) turn to run position: did you hear the fuel pump run and then shutoff?
      3) try to start the car. should fire right up. Any clouds out the tailpipe at start? Any slightly sweet smells? Fuel smell?
      4) let the car idle a bit. nice and stable? right around 1000rpm? oil and alternator lights go out pretty fast? (the rest should have gone out as soon as you started it).
      5) blip throttle to 3000rpm and let it drop. Any puff of smoke out the back?
      6) start driving. go into first okay? did it grind when you went for second gear? Make sure to go through all gears. was 5th harder to get into/wanting to pop out/making horrible noises? Any whining noises up front while moving? Any clicking noises when you crank the wheel all the way left/right?
      7) temp gauge moving up yet? Does it get off the bottom/cold engine section?
      8) is the heater working? If it has A/C, do you get cold blast of air?
      9) take it up to speed. Listen for changes in sounds. Also, as you get up to higher speeds, any shake/shimmy/rattling coming from either front or back end?
      10)brake. hard. Any shimmy/shake? Any clunking noise?
      11) end drive. leave engine running and pop the hood again. Coolant hoses firm, but not bulging at the ends? Any funny noises/smells? Is the idle still at normal speed?
      guess I can edit if I remember what it was I forgot.
      *edit: 2002/11/4 added some stuff about brake warp and wheel balance...

      [Modified by negativl, 8:32 PM 11-4-2002]

    11. 11-01-2002 07:36 AM #36
      When changing your starter, SUPPORT THE ENGINE WITH A JACK ON THE OILPAN. You starter is incorporated into the front motor mount!

    12. 11-01-2002 12:44 PM #37
      Front Brakes:
      All Mk2's came equipped with 9.4" brakes and 20mm MC except 88 up GLI which has 10.1" brakes and 22mm MC
      That's incorrect.
      My 89 Jetta GLI 16v was rolling on 9.4". The switch was made in the early to middle of the 1989 MY. And specifically, it was the 16v GLIs that rolled on 10.1s.
      Borrowed from Adirondack's (excellent) site:
      Jetta 2, GLI 16V, '87- mid '89 (thru chassis #K_240000) get 9.4" discs.
      Jetta 2, GLI 16V, mid '89 (from chassis #K_240001) thru '92 get 10.1" discs.
      Everything else was dead on though except for the corresponding change in the list of donor cars.
      for a great thread.

    13. 11-01-2002 01:46 PM #38
      Ok I've got a really dumb question that maybe Dutchman could add to his post.
      Ok here it is.
      Are the "big doors" actually bigger? Or is it just the window that is bigger without the wing window?
      same size. so swapable....... [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    14. 11-01-2002 03:29 PM #39
      Q: What does GTI, GLI and so on mean?
      L = Luxe (base model)
      LS = Luxe Special, couple more do-dads
      GT = Grand Tourisme, better equipped & usually a larger engine than
      the "L" series
      GL = Grand Luxe (geared for more luxury), basically == GT
      GTI/GLI = Originally, the fuel injected version of a GT/GL which means it
      produced a lot more power. With most cars FI, the GTI/GLI
      designation means a more powerful engine than a GT/GL model,
      sometimes also with a better suspension. Note that originally,
      GLI != Jetta, as the case in the USA.
      SL = Serie Limite' (limited series), like the Karmann series in US.
      Really a variation on a GT.
      GTX = Same as GTI/GLI but used in Europe and elsewhere.
      G40/60 = GT version with VWs G-type supercharger. The number is the width
      of the G-charger (lader in D) coil in millimeters. For those who
      aren't aware, the G40 is used on some Polos, the G60 on Passats
      and Corrados.
      VR6 = Cars based on the new staggered 6 cylinder engine (in-line-V-6).
      SLC = Sport Luxury Coupe, the VR6 equipped Corrado in the US.
      Syncro = VWs version 4WD distributes its torque with a "visco-gear"
      (It's a special silicone gel that stiffens if the relative
      motion (shear) increases)

    15. 11-01-2002 08:10 PM #40
      **sticky door handles**
      go to a bicycle shop and buy "TRI-FLOW", or if they have, "campagnolo spray oil"
      squirt all pivots, enjoy smooth entry every time

    16. Moderator The Red Baron's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 30th, 2000
      Toronto, Canada
      2016 Golf R
      11-02-2002 01:39 AM #41
      for every moment of triumph, for every instance of beauty,
      many souls must be trampled - hunter s thompson

    17. 11-02-2002 01:08 PM #42
      Idle Problems:
      Vacuum Hoses
      All grounds
      Air Intake Boot
      O2 Sensor
      Fuel Pressure Regulator

    18. Member vr6Cop's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 1st, 2000
      Music City
      11-04-2002 01:19 PM #43
      "Mk" (as in Mk1, Mk2, etc) is pronounced "Mark" and not "Em Kay"
      Cheers, Adrian
      726 bottles of beer on the wall.

    19. 11-04-2002 04:41 PM #44
      And when you are done with the inside it's time to take care of the outside....
      and you will be almost there.

      and to top it off.......some tunes for the road......


      your life is complete

      [Modified by chinobox, 1:44 PM 11-4-2002]

    20. Member nickinboston's Avatar
      Join Date
      Sep 7th, 2001
      1991 GTI 16v
      11-04-2002 05:20 PM #45
      Idle Problems:
      Vacuum Hoses
      All grounds
      Air Intake Boot
      O2 Sensor
      Fuel Pressure Regulator
      Also: Idle Problems with 2.0 16v (motronic)
      This can be done by removing the harness and testing the continuity between the first and third terminal where the harness used to be. When the switch is closed there should be continuity. When its open there should NOT be continuity. An easier way of doing this is to open the switch and let it close slowly...you should hear a click. If you don't its either a faulty switch or adjusted too far open. Loosen the bolt 8 or 9mm (?) and adjust the screw by turning it with a small screw driver.

    21. Member
      Join Date
      Apr 26th, 2002
      2016 Golf Sportwagen
      11-05-2002 02:44 AM #46
      I think, for all intensive purposes, these items should always be in your stock of tools/parts.
      Replacement clutch cable.
      Small vice-grips.
      My clutch cable went this weekend and luckily I was saved by a friend that had a pair of those handy grips. Drove home without a problem [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    22. 11-06-2002 10:26 AM #47
      If you are not able to remove your dash after unscrewing everything inside the car, don't forget to remove the 2 screws under the hood under the plastic tray

    23. Member Kierowca's Avatar
      Join Date
      Dec 27th, 1999
      Rhode Island
      85 Scirocco, 2013 GTI
      11-06-2002 12:20 PM #48
      Corrado g60 steelies.... $41 a piece from the tire rack.
      The caps can be bought from the dealer.
      center cap part # 871 601 171
      lug cap # 321 601 173 A
      from the tire rack for $41 a piece..

    24. 11-06-2002 12:46 PM #49
      Step by step pix of an 020 (ACH/AGB) tranny teardown & re-assembly.
      http://=http://f1.pg.photos.ya...hotos in 020 tranny folder. Captions not added yet, will be in time.
      updated Yahoo photos link

      Modified by OhioBenz at 7:50 PM 2-15-2004

    25. 11-07-2002 06:05 PM #50

      1. According to some people, a 1992- VW Jetta GLI has a dual exhaust manifold, and it uses a 55 mm cat. I have a 1992 VW Jetta CARAT, and it has the dif. engine than the GL's, has more hp, and torque. My question is, if they both have the same manifolds, and they take the same replacement cats, from TT, can I use a GLI exhaust on my Jetta Carat. Or are there some other diffrences.
      If the cats are the same size, then it will fit fine. The underside of all jettas are the same (well except for the syncros)

      hey, are you sure your Carat doesn't have a dual downpipe? Take a look, it just might...
      BTW, the 8v dual downpipe is different and incompatible with the 16v dual downpipe.

      Thats wrong. All the dual downpipes are the same, whats different between the 16v and the 8v on the exhaust side is the bolt pattern on the exhaust manifold to the head. So a 16v exhaust manifold wont for on an 8v, but a 16v dual downpipe will work with an 8v dual exhaust manifold.

      was reading the 16v forums here are a few
      16v intake manifold sizes
      16v head on an 8v block
      differences between 1.8 and 2.0 heads

      Intake sizes: 40mm (1.8l 16v ), 42mm (2.0l 16v ), 50mm
      16v head on an 8v block wont work without different pistons and maybe some other stuff
      Differences between 16v 1.8 and 16v 2.0 heads: click here (careful its a big pic)

      If I'm wrong with any of this, lemme know [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      [Modified by Jetta2dr, 6:07 PM 11-7-2002]

    For advertising information click HERE

    Page 2 of 20 FirstFirst 12345612 ... LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts