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    Thread: The long-awaited "MkII FAQ/DIY Thread

    1. 11-01-2002 07:36 AM #36
      When changing your starter, SUPPORT THE ENGINE WITH A JACK ON THE OILPAN. You starter is incorporated into the front motor mount!

    2. 11-01-2002 12:44 PM #37
      quote:
      Front Brakes:
      All Mk2's came equipped with 9.4" brakes and 20mm MC except 88 up GLI which has 10.1" brakes and 22mm MC

      That's incorrect.
      My 89 Jetta GLI 16v was rolling on 9.4". The switch was made in the early to middle of the 1989 MY. And specifically, it was the 16v GLIs that rolled on 10.1s.

      Borrowed from Adirondack's (excellent) site:
      Jetta 2, GLI 16V, '87- mid '89 (thru chassis #K_240000) get 9.4" discs.
      Jetta 2, GLI 16V, mid '89 (from chassis #K_240001) thru '92 get 10.1" discs.

      Everything else was dead on though except for the corresponding change in the list of donor cars.

      for a great thread.


    3. 11-01-2002 01:46 PM #38
      quote:
      Ok I've got a really dumb question that maybe Dutchman could add to his post.
      Ok here it is.
      Are the "big doors" actually bigger? Or is it just the window that is bigger without the wing window?

      Thanks


      same size. so swapable.......

    4. 11-01-2002 03:29 PM #39
      Q: What does GTI, GLI and so on mean?

      L = Luxe (base model)
      LS = Luxe Special, couple more do-dads
      GT = Grand Tourisme, better equipped & usually a larger engine than
      the "L" series
      GL = Grand Luxe (geared for more luxury), basically == GT
      GTI/GLI = Originally, the fuel injected version of a GT/GL which means it
      produced a lot more power. With most cars FI, the GTI/GLI
      designation means a more powerful engine than a GT/GL model,
      sometimes also with a better suspension. Note that originally,
      GLI != Jetta, as the case in the USA.
      SL = Serie Limite' (limited series), like the Karmann series in US.
      Really a variation on a GT.
      GTX = Same as GTI/GLI but used in Europe and elsewhere.
      G40/60 = GT version with VWs G-type supercharger. The number is the width
      of the G-charger (lader in D) coil in millimeters. For those who
      aren't aware, the G40 is used on some Polos, the G60 on Passats
      and Corrados.
      VR6 = Cars based on the new staggered 6 cylinder engine (in-line-V-6).
      SLC = Sport Luxury Coupe, the VR6 equipped Corrado in the US.
      Syncro = VWs version 4WD distributes its torque with a "visco-gear"
      (It's a special silicone gel that stiffens if the relative
      motion (shear) increases)


    5. 11-01-2002 08:10 PM #40
      **sticky door handles**

      go to a bicycle shop and buy "TRI-FLOW", or if they have, "campagnolo spray oil"

      squirt all pivots, enjoy smooth entry every time


    6. Moderator The Red Baron's Avatar
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      11-02-2002 01:39 AM #41
      vwot.org

      In a closed society where everybody's guilty, the only crime is getting caught.
      In a world of thieves, the only final sin is stupidity. - Hunter S Thompson

    7. 11-02-2002 01:08 PM #42
      Idle Problems:
      -----------------------------------------------

      Check:

      Vacuum Hoses
      All grounds
      Air Intake Boot
      O2 Sensor
      Fuel Pressure Regulator


    8. Member vr6Cop's Avatar
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      11-04-2002 01:19 PM #43
      "Mk" (as in Mk1, Mk2, etc) is pronounced "Mark" and not "Em Kay"
      Cheers, Adrian
      726 bottles of beer on the wall.

    9. 11-04-2002 04:41 PM #44
      And when you are done with the inside it's time to take care of the outside....
      and you will be almost there.


      http://www.autopia-carcare.com/

      and to top it off.......some tunes for the road......


      http://www.caraudioforum.com/


      your life is complete




      [Modified by chinobox, 1:44 PM 11-4-2002]


    10. Member nickinboston's Avatar
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      11-04-2002 05:20 PM #45
      quote:
      Idle Problems:
      -----------------------------------------------

      Check:

      Vacuum Hoses
      All grounds
      Air Intake Boot
      O2 Sensor
      Fuel Pressure Regulator


      Also: Idle Problems with 2.0 16v (motronic)
      CHECK THAT YOUR IDLE SWITCH IS CORRECTLY ADJUSTED
      This can be done by removing the harness and testing the continuity between the first and third terminal where the harness used to be. When the switch is closed there should be continuity. When its open there should NOT be continuity. An easier way of doing this is to open the switch and let it close slowly...you should hear a click. If you don't its either a faulty switch or adjusted too far open. Loosen the bolt 8 or 9mm (?) and adjust the screw by turning it with a small screw driver.


    11. Member
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      11-05-2002 02:44 AM #46
      I think, for all intensive purposes, these items should always be in your stock of tools/parts.

      Replacement clutch cable.
      Small vice-grips.

      My clutch cable went this weekend and luckily I was saved by a friend that had a pair of those handy grips. Drove home without a problem


    12. 11-06-2002 10:26 AM #47
      If you are not able to remove your dash after unscrewing everything inside the car, don't forget to remove the 2 screws under the hood under the plastic tray

    13. Member Kierowca's Avatar
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      11-06-2002 12:20 PM #48
      Corrado g60 steelies.... $41 a piece from the tire rack.
      The caps can be bought from the dealer.
      center cap part # 871 601 171
      lug cap # 321 601 173 A

      from the tire rack for $41 a piece..



    14. 11-06-2002 12:46 PM #49
      Step by step pix of an 020 (ACH/AGB) tranny teardown & re-assembly.

      http://=http://f1.pg.photos.ya...hotos in 020 tranny folder. Captions not added yet, will be in time.

      updated Yahoo photos link



      Modified by OhioBenz at 7:50 PM 2-15-2004


    15. 11-07-2002 06:05 PM #50
      quote:

      1. According to some people, a 1992- VW Jetta GLI has a dual exhaust manifold, and it uses a 55 mm cat. I have a 1992 VW Jetta CARAT, and it has the dif. engine than the GL's, has more hp, and torque. My question is, if they both have the same manifolds, and they take the same replacement cats, from TT, can I use a GLI exhaust on my Jetta Carat. Or are there some other diffrences.

      If the cats are the same size, then it will fit fine. The underside of all jettas are the same (well except for the syncros)

      quote:

      hey, are you sure your Carat doesn't have a dual downpipe? Take a look, it just might...
      BTW, the 8v dual downpipe is different and incompatible with the 16v dual downpipe.

      Thats wrong. All the dual downpipes are the same, whats different between the 16v and the 8v on the exhaust side is the bolt pattern on the exhaust manifold to the head. So a 16v exhaust manifold wont for on an 8v, but a 16v dual downpipe will work with an 8v dual exhaust manifold.

      quote:

      was reading the 16v forums here are a few
      16v intake manifold sizes
      16v head on an 8v block
      differences between 1.8 and 2.0 heads

      Intake sizes: 40mm (1.8l 16v ), 42mm (2.0l 16v ), 50mm
      16v head on an 8v block wont work without different pistons and maybe some other stuff
      Differences between 16v 1.8 and 16v 2.0 heads: click here (careful its a big pic)


      If I'm wrong with any of this, lemme know


      [Modified by Jetta2dr, 6:07 PM 11-7-2002]


    16. 11-07-2002 07:05 PM #51
      www.4130-products.com/step


      [Modified by scottba2gti, 6:54 PM 11-7-2002]


      [Modified by scottba2gti, 6:56 PM 11-7-2002]


    17. 11-08-2002 02:06 AM #52
      why studs as that is like the dark ages. try this one on for size. replace all those stupid striping studs with m8 stainless steel allen heads. do not over tighten specially if you have a steel valve cover. also the A3 golf/jetta also had the rubber valve cover gasket.
      c-ya

    18. 11-08-2002 02:23 AM #53
      remove and clean throttle body idle adjustment screw and replace "o" ring as needed. some may look as they don't come out it's just there full of carbon as they do come out. on some gti/gli there is also another "o" ring on the head near the intake manifold instead of the metal pipe for the vacuum there is a 90 degree plastic part. that is for the short list that might apply for both. as I know more about cis &(e) then digi.

    19. Senior Member Big Dac With Fries's Avatar
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      11-08-2002 09:00 AM #54
      quote:
      Maybe someone will answer this post here... Anyone done a Ghetto Cold air intake with dryer hose or something? Any pics, or step by step instructions would be nice.

      one more time . .Hey Yo . . . .
      Okay, this only works for Digi2, what I did, after some serious consideration and research, is to remove the "horn" that is attached to the front of your airbox. Simply put, remove the lower half and you'll figure out that it just clips into place.
      If you think of it, VW did a pretty good job of locating the air intake, as you may have noticed, on dork hondas, their "custom intake" be it from AEM, RActive or whoever, will often place the filter right behind the Headlight. Sure, making the filter scrape the ground may result in a 0.0000001 degree of colder air, but it also amounts to more road crap and water being sucked up. (Providng you have a daily driver) I believe it was autozone.com that did a R+D test on what location on the vehicle the air turbulence is greatest. It was proven via air speed sensor that below the headlight/grille assembly proved most turbulent, therefore would be the most effective place to draw air from.
      Back to Dubs . . . The stock setup is actually quite effective as the air does not have a compex route full of bends and kinks to travel, be it as on a 97 civic. If you've looked at the "horn" assembly, you'll see that it gos from roughly 3" down to 1" and back to 3". The purpose of this is to muffle the intake sound, that we love oh so much. By removing the "horn" you'll dramatically increase sound, BUT your source for fresh air will be 1.5" behind the stock location, leaving an "air gap". this "gap" will suck in engine air, which is bad. After removing the "horn" i replaced it with a piece of 3" silicone intercooler pipe, so that it would still draw air from the stock location, only it wouldnt be as restrictive. (it flows 3" all the way).
      Doing so, I also sealed off the hot air intake and removed the vaccuum actuated assembly in the lower half of the airbox, and swiss cheesed the many ribs inside.
      DRIVING IMPRESSION: You wont get that extra 24 bhp or drop that 2 secs off your 1/4 mile, but the sound alone is worth the effort. I'm sure there is a minimal bhp gain somewhere (in the decimal area). With a regular light foot, the car sounds stock, over 3000 rpm and mash the gas, it sounds like you got an outboard marine motor in place of the Digi 8v . . . in a good way.
      On a final note, on the subject of using aluminum, it conducts heat rapidly, so it would be more easily affected by high engine temps as opposed to sheet steel. Sure, steel is heavier, but it is also cheaper, easier to weld, and if it has a constant flow of cold air going through it, it will stay cold. see www.teamdelsol.com under the how-to section. It tells you how to do it for a DelSlo, but i'm sure us VW driving geniuses could adapt a way to use the smae principles, materials etc . . .

      Want to roll your fenders or Lamin-X your lights in clear or yellow for THE ABSOLUTE CHEAPEST PRICE IN THE GTA? IM me!
      "I was thinking about what a friend had said, I was hoping it was a lie."

    20. 11-08-2002 11:46 AM #55
      California misconceptions!!!!

      Golf/Jetta's 8v 88-89 ARE DIGIFANT II !!!!!! in Cali
      Golf/Jetta's 8v 90-92 ARE DIGIFANT I !!!!!! in Cali. This includes GL, Wolfsburg GL and CARAT models!!! They each have the same Engine.

      PF engines were available on Cali cars. I own one bought in the state of California and is smoggable.


      [Modified by oceanjetta, 4:50 PM 11-8-2002]


    21. Senior Member ValveCoverGasket's Avatar
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      11-08-2002 01:12 PM #56
      lotsa info on timing a 16v. and explainations of ignition timing and flywheel marks. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=562661
      HTH someone

    22. Member upon3's Avatar
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      11-08-2002 04:36 PM #57
      The Difference Between a BBS RM and a BBS RS

      It is a BBS RM and it is a cast 2-piece wheel. The two pieces consist of the outer "lip" or "rim" and the inside half and are held together with 30 bolts. The center cap is plastic and snaps in. These wheels were available on the '91-92 16v GTIs. They are notoriously soft, and were very expensive from the dealer when they would need replacing. You can find a clean, straight set nowadays for about $400 - $500 if you are very lucky. Any less, and the wheels probably need some work.

      It is a forged 3-piece wheel that consists of an outer "lip" and an inner "lip" plus the center section. The center cap is aluminum and threaded, and attaches by screwing on to the wheel. These are very light (15 pounds each), very strong and very rare wheels, especially in the U.S. where they were never offered on any factory VW. They were offered on a few European VWs, however. These are considered some of the most sought after wheels for the "old school" VW crowd. New, these wheels retailed for about $900 a piece in 15 x 7 or 7.5" versions in a 4-bolt/100mm pattern. If you can find these wheels today, in ANY condition, expect to pay at least $250 a piece, and probably higher. Most people that have them don't want to part with them. You can also find these wheels on some older 3-series E30 BMWs, too, but they almost always have gold center sections.


      [photos removed for bandwidth savings]


      Modified by upon3 at 11:45 AM 11-6-2004


    23. Member
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      11-08-2002 05:35 PM #58
      Okay, the only background is that there are 1, 3 and 4 wire Oxygen sensors.
      1 wire have signal only, and ground through the exhaust pipe. They are used on 85-87 CIS A2s (with no knock sensor), as I've just learned from Kierowca.
      3 wire is what all factory A2 engine management systems use. There is a signal wire, and 2 (non polarity, either goes to either connector) heater wires that enable the system to enter closed-loop mode faster. These also ground via the exhaust system.
      4 wire is used on newer cars, and adds a ground connection wire to improve signal quality.

      Nearly all the O2 sensors are made by either Bosch or various Japanese conglomerates, and they all have standardized threads. This means the sensors for all exhaust systems will fit into each other's sockets. The only difference is the number of wires (1/3/4) and the wiring connector (socket/plug) on the end. More to the point, this means that a Bosch 3 wire O2 sensor on a Ford is the identical sensor as that on a VW.

      (The 1wire universal sensor is either Bosch 11025 or 11027, I have no idea what the difference is as I've never used one. about $20 either way.)

      All this matters because if you ask the parts counter, Bosch has NEVER listed a "universal" or "generic" 3wire O2 sensor. However, the Ford 3wire sensor has NO electrical connector, just bare wires. This can therefore be easily used as a replacement for any other Bosch 3 wire sensor. There are 2 different Ford types that can be used, the only difference is the LENGTH of the plain wiring.

      (these are Bosch short part#s, btw. The long number adds some digits before the 5 digit number, but it's not relevant if you're not placing the order directly to Bosch. The parts people at the auto store can look it up with the short #)
      13913 is the SHORT wiring sensor, with a few inches of wire.
      13953 is the LONG wiring sensor, with about twice as much (8-10 inches) of wire.
      The price for either of these is generally between $40-50.

      The price for a VW factory sensor is over 100. If you don't feel comfortable cutting and splicing the old VW wiring onto the plain "Ford" wiring, you can pay Bosch $60+ to do it for you. Other wise, cut the old sensor at the sensor itself (give yourself as much length as you can to play/work/messup). Then cut 2 of the wires slightly shorter, so the joints are not all lined up (one half an inch back, the other an inch back, for example). Solder them, or at least crimp them. Do not just twist them together or you'll be going back under to reconnect them. Cover with a liberal ammount of electrical tape, and secure it away from the exhaust. Done. Go spend money you saved on a shifter rebuild kit, or beer or something.


      *edit: Kierowca edumacated me.


      [Modified by negativl, 11:30 PM 11-8-2002]


    24. Member Kierowca's Avatar
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      11-08-2002 05:44 PM #59
      quote:
      Okay, the only background is that there are 1, 3 and 4 wire Oxygen sensors.
      1 wire have signal only, and ground through the exhaust pipe. They are not used in any US A2s that I've been able to research, but are common on BMWs and some other cars.

      85-87 Cis A2 cars with no knock sensors.... use the single wire O2 sensor.


    25. 11-08-2002 10:32 PM #60
      For the folks who want the black plastic trim, the trim on your A, B, and C pillars and the trim that connects the C pillars. Go to an auto parts store or auto paint store and get Dupli Color Vinyl & Fabric Color. Remove your trim, clean it with dishwasing liquid in water or Plastic prep, spray and you have black trim. Did this to the White C pillars in my car a couple of years ago and still looks good and color matches the other trim perfectly.

    26. 11-09-2002 10:40 AM #61
      If your oil light and buzzer come on, and your oil level is fine, you might have the wrong type of oil filter. My car's light and buzzer would come on every time I came off the highway, at around 2400 rpm. I would rev pass 3000 or so and it would stop. This happened consistently with a Fram and quaker state oil filter from an oil change at a shop. I alternated shop change, and then changing the oil myself with a bosch or mann oil filter, and evertime the light and buzzer would never surface with the proper oil filter.

      Also use heavier 20w50, or 15w40 for summer and the same or 10w30 for winter.


    27. Member
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      11-09-2002 02:36 PM #62
      After waxing your car, if you accidentally got some mixed up in your windshield squirters, a pin and some high pressure water work wonders for getting the wax out.

    28. 11-09-2002 08:15 PM #63
      quote:
      Vehicle Indentification Number
      DIGIT: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
      ---------------------------------
      EXAMPLE: W V W D B 4 5 0 5 L K 2 4 5 6 7 8
      ---------------------------------
      WMI.. VDS........ VIS............

      WMI = World Manufacture Index
      VDS = Vehicle Descriptor Section
      VIS = Vehicle Identifier Section

      1 - Manufacturing Country
      W - Germany
      1 - USA
      3 - Mexico
      9 - Brazil

      2 - Manufacturer
      B - VW of Brazil
      V - Volkswagen

      3 - Vehicle Type
      1 - Pickup
      2 - MPV (Multi Purpose Vehicle)
      W - Passenger Car

      4 - Series
      1985-95 Jetta
      K - 2 Door Base
      M - 2 Door Custom
      P - 4 Door Base
      R - 4 Door Custom GL / Caret / Economy
      S - 4 Door GLS / CustomT - 4 Door GLI / GLX


      [Modified by 2035cc16v, 7:54 AM 10-31-2002]


      I know that the 4-series cant be finished, because my Jetta has an "E", there? and carfax pulls it up as a Jetta? just a bit confused?


    29. 11-09-2002 08:47 PM #64
      When I had a 16v, I was wondering about the difference between a 1.8 and 2.0 head until I stumbled on this bit of info while reading European Car mag's Project GTI.

      True that stock, the 1.8 16v valve head flows better and has higher compression, but the 2.0 liter 16v head has more material to remove and thus room to work.


    30. Senior Member PowerDubs's Avatar
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      11-09-2002 09:47 PM #65
      quote:
      I stumbled on this bit of info while reading European Car mag's Project GTI.

      True that stock, the 1.8 16v valve head flows better and has higher compression, but the 2.0 liter 16v head has more material to remove and thus room to work.



      Actually, Euro-car has been known to make alot of errors..... the 1.8 & 2.0 16v heads have the same CR.....and the 2.0 head has more material because of different coolent passages, so you can NOT remove as much material to make it the same as the 1.8 head.....the extra material just allows a wider choice of shape, within limits...

      -Josh
      06 VW - 6.0 W12 444hp/413tq all motor - stock | 05 VW 4.2 V8 335hp + intakes & exhaust =?
      04 VW - 3.2 VR6 330hp all motor - far from stock | 03 VW 2.8 VR6 201hp + ecu flash = ?
      01 ZRX1200 - not stock

    31. Member JethroWV's Avatar
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      11-11-2002 07:44 AM #66
      A common Mk2 problem that has been popping up recently a good bit is non-working rear window defrosters. 9 times out of 10 the problem has to do with the ground wire for the window. This wire corrodes or breaks. Running a new wire to a good ground (Note: on Golfs/GTI's the hatch is not grounded) will correct this problem.


      [Modified by 1987&2001Jettas, 9:09 AM 11-11-2002]
      I am the Volkswagen Special Tool

      Team Zip-Tie: Women love us. Cones fear us.

    32. Member JethroWV's Avatar
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      11-11-2002 09:08 AM #67
      Mk2 Common Interior Leaks

      There are three main places water can get into the inside of your car from.

      1) The cover over the raintray under the hood becomes brittle over the years and cracks. These cracks can allow water to dump into the fresh air intake normally located under this cover. Plugged drainholes in this tray can cause the same problem. The drainholes are located in the corners of the tray by the fenders. Clean the drainholes and replace the cover if neccessary.

      2) The vapor barriers inside the doors become unsealed or torn. The way to diagnose this problem is to feel the bottoms of your door panels after it rains. If the door barriers are bad the door panel will be wet to the touch. This problem is easily corrected as well. Go to a hardware store and get a roll of 3 mil. plastic and a squeezable tube of tub and tile caulk/adhesive. Cut new pieces of plastic for each door that are larger than the door by a few inches on each side. Run a bead of the caulk around the door about 1 1/2 inches in from the edges. Apply the plastic to the door cutting only as big of an opening as you need for each item passing though it. (door handle, window crank shaft, etc...) You can also run a bead around these items to seal the plastic to the door. Make sure you leave enough slack in the plastic for the recessed area of the door panel.

      3) The drain tubes from the sunroof area can become clogged. You can use a pipe cleaner to try to gently unplug these. I'm sure there is another method for these as well, but I have yet to have to deal with the problem.

      I am the Volkswagen Special Tool

      Team Zip-Tie: Women love us. Cones fear us.

    33. Member JethroWV's Avatar
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      11-11-2002 11:07 AM #68
      quote:
      what if 6 wires work but everything else doesnt

      Then the other wires are broken. If you can find the location of the break, they sell a repair paint at most parts stores. You should get a stencil and the paint. Take your time and you should be good to go.

      I am the Volkswagen Special Tool

      Team Zip-Tie: Women love us. Cones fear us.

    34. 11-11-2002 11:55 AM #69
      16v cars and Wolfsburg Editions:

      No 16v GTI's were ever designated as a Wolfsburg Edition from the factory, the likelihood of dealer installed Wolfsburg badges exist but this is extremly rare and is not a factory addtion.

      No 16v GLI's from 87-88 and 90-92 were ever designated as a Wolfsburg Edition from the factory, the likelihood of dealer installed Wolfsburg badges exist but this is extremly rare and is not a factory addtion.

      The only 16v car that was a factory Wolfsburg Edition was the Helios Blue GLI offered in 1989. This car is idetified by color coded BBS RA wheel centers, the "Blizzak" (blue striped) power Recaro seats, and a sunroof that leaks like a sive. This car was a special edition of which only 1500 example were produced for the US. It should also be noted that the CIS-E management system the Helios Edition uses is wired through a Central Electric II fuse box, making certain aspects of the cars wiring harness incompatible with every other 16v produced.

      Also note that some early 1990 GLI's had small bumpers but did recieved the 2 liter CIS-Motronic engine and Central Electric II wiring harness.


    35. 11-12-2002 12:42 AM #70
      quote:
      Could someone please post info on converting/installing a 4k trans on a 16v motor?

      Remove 16V transmission.
      Swap 100mm drive flanges from 16V transmission onto 4K Transmission.
      Replace 16V clutch disc with 8V clutch disc.
      Install 4K transmission.


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