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    Thread: SAI Delete DIY Guide Almost complete

    1. Member 2003gtivr62.8liter's Avatar
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      04-22-2012 07:25 PM #1
      Disclaimer: I am not a ase certified technician and do not take any responsibility if things don't go right.

      Ok here is some of it. I bought the block off plate from INEngineering. You can probably do this without taking off the bumper beam & lock carrier, but I did just because.

      First I located the SAI pump motor which is right behind the radiator. After locating that I then traced all the lines/hoses and found out where they all went.

      Second I took out the Bracket holding pump motor. It has 2 bolts in the oil pan and 1 bolt in the cylinder block. They are right under the oil filter housing. You will have to disconnect the Harness connector on the pump.

      Disconnect half of the pressure hose on the side of the engine so you have less hose to remove from the bottom. These hoses are disconnected by pushing in and pulling. Remove pump from the bottom thru and around radiator hoses.

      Next, take out your intake tubing to gain better access to the Combi-valve. It is kind of a pain in the ass but not to bad.

      Now you can gain access to the Combi-valve you have a radiator hose that needs to be disconnected. It might be a pain, but keep at it and take your time to take it off as you will still need it. There are 3 bolts one is on top, one is on bottom and the other is in the middle of the radiator hose and the Fitting Flange on the Combi-Valve. The one in the middle was the real only pain.

      You will have to disconnect the ground wire and relocate it. I relocated mine right on top of the Valve cover. (hopefully that works) (Any ideas on where else it could be moved to are welcome).

      Install the block off plate and the hose.

      The only thing that I have left to do is the vaccum plug leading into the SAI Solenoid Valve(N112). Has anyone done this before? Can I just delete that whole solenoid valve or just plug it?


      Where the bracket is located.


      Combi-valve.


      SAI Pump motor. You can disconnect the hose in the middle to make removal easier.


      Side view of the lines afterwards.


      What it looks like with the combi-valve.


      Better pic of Block off Plate with hose connected.


      SAI Solenoid Valve on the left. Can I just take that compeletly off or just plug that hole?
      2003 VW GTI VR6 24v; Stage1 port R32 Head, ABD C.A.I., Techtonics Tuning 2.5" Highflow DP, Cat, Cat-Back w/ Borla Muffler,Neuspeed Power Pulleys; Stage 1+ Clutch Kit w/ LW Flywheel; TT 264/260 Cams; UM Tune; ECS Short Shift, Forge Side2side, 42dd shift bushings, VF Engineering mounts, H&R Rear Sway Bar, Neuspeed Upper Strut Bar, FK Rear Upper Stress,KW V2 Coils, Yellow Optima, Conti DW's, OE Euro Tails, Raxles...so on

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      Jetta TDI 03, Corrado 24v 90.
      04-22-2012 07:48 PM #2
      Remove the whole plastic box with both solenoid under the intake. Cut the 2 connectors and put 300omhs 10W resistors instead. Make sure you don't cut the connector too short so you can weld them back if you need to. Keep everything in a box in case you need to reinstall everything. Once the plastic box and the solenoids have been removed you'll have to figure out the vacuum lines but this part is quite easy, make sure you reconnect the FPR vacuum line and that there's no vacuum leaks anywhere.

    3. Member 2003gtivr62.8liter's Avatar
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      04-22-2012 08:04 PM #3
      Sounds good. Man I hate to mess with electrical ****
      2003 VW GTI VR6 24v; Stage1 port R32 Head, ABD C.A.I., Techtonics Tuning 2.5" Highflow DP, Cat, Cat-Back w/ Borla Muffler,Neuspeed Power Pulleys; Stage 1+ Clutch Kit w/ LW Flywheel; TT 264/260 Cams; UM Tune; ECS Short Shift, Forge Side2side, 42dd shift bushings, VF Engineering mounts, H&R Rear Sway Bar, Neuspeed Upper Strut Bar, FK Rear Upper Stress,KW V2 Coils, Yellow Optima, Conti DW's, OE Euro Tails, Raxles...so on

    4. Member 2003gtivr62.8liter's Avatar
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      04-23-2012 12:07 AM #4
      So what you are saying is to completely remove these solenoids correct?

      Another question is since I already have the Unitronic Stage 2 will I still throw a CEL?
      2003 VW GTI VR6 24v; Stage1 port R32 Head, ABD C.A.I., Techtonics Tuning 2.5" Highflow DP, Cat, Cat-Back w/ Borla Muffler,Neuspeed Power Pulleys; Stage 1+ Clutch Kit w/ LW Flywheel; TT 264/260 Cams; UM Tune; ECS Short Shift, Forge Side2side, 42dd shift bushings, VF Engineering mounts, H&R Rear Sway Bar, Neuspeed Upper Strut Bar, FK Rear Upper Stress,KW V2 Coils, Yellow Optima, Conti DW's, OE Euro Tails, Raxles...so on

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      Jetta TDI 03, Corrado 24v 90.
      04-23-2012 09:52 AM #5
      Yes these and the black plastic box. Take a look at the 1.8T sai delete DIY it's really similar. Resistors "should" prevent from trowing codes. But I can't guarantee it will. In my case, I get N112 circuit open error code I need to check if something as gone wrong with the connection to the resistor.

      You could remove the black plastic box and vacuum lines and leave the solenoids connected and tuck them somewhere.
      Last edited by madonion; 04-23-2012 at 09:56 AM.

    6. Member 2003gtivr62.8liter's Avatar
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      04-23-2012 01:47 PM #6
      Now I was looking in the Bentley and there is a relay for the sai. Should I get rid of that also? Considering I am taking I out.
      2003 VW GTI VR6 24v; Stage1 port R32 Head, ABD C.A.I., Techtonics Tuning 2.5" Highflow DP, Cat, Cat-Back w/ Borla Muffler,Neuspeed Power Pulleys; Stage 1+ Clutch Kit w/ LW Flywheel; TT 264/260 Cams; UM Tune; ECS Short Shift, Forge Side2side, 42dd shift bushings, VF Engineering mounts, H&R Rear Sway Bar, Neuspeed Upper Strut Bar, FK Rear Upper Stress,KW V2 Coils, Yellow Optima, Conti DW's, OE Euro Tails, Raxles...so on

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      Jetta TDI 03, Corrado 24v 90.
      04-23-2012 07:38 PM #7
      Personally I wouldn't remove the relay, but you could do it if you make sure it's not used for anything else than the pump. Just make sure you find a way to insulate the SAI pump connector. I used a big piece of eat shrink with glue in it.

    8. 04-23-2012 07:57 PM #8
      You can remove the SAI relay. Chip tuning along with resistoring is need to keep the CEL off and fuel trims adapting.

    9. Member jaso028's Avatar
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      04-24-2012 08:51 AM #9
      Nice!!
      glad to see someone making a nice DIY on this..

      removing that SAI frees up some nice space...
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    10. Member GRN6IX's Avatar
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      04-24-2012 02:58 PM #10
      The other solenoid is for your intake changeover valve, don't remove that one.

    11. Member jaso028's Avatar
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      04-24-2012 03:03 PM #11
      dont some tunes allow you not to use the solenoids?
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    12. Member 2003gtivr62.8liter's Avatar
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      04-25-2012 12:32 AM #12
      ^. That's what I thought. Could have sworn unitronic does it with the stage 2 software.
      2003 VW GTI VR6 24v; Stage1 port R32 Head, ABD C.A.I., Techtonics Tuning 2.5" Highflow DP, Cat, Cat-Back w/ Borla Muffler,Neuspeed Power Pulleys; Stage 1+ Clutch Kit w/ LW Flywheel; TT 264/260 Cams; UM Tune; ECS Short Shift, Forge Side2side, 42dd shift bushings, VF Engineering mounts, H&R Rear Sway Bar, Neuspeed Upper Strut Bar, FK Rear Upper Stress,KW V2 Coils, Yellow Optima, Conti DW's, OE Euro Tails, Raxles...so on

    13. Member jaso028's Avatar
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      04-25-2012 07:54 AM #13
      Meant to say resistors, but I think you knew what I meant.. lol
      I remeber something with the UM tune I have saying it eliminates the SAI, but I always here it run. So I dont think it did..
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      04-25-2012 06:55 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by GRN6IX View Post
      The other solenoid is for your intake changeover valve, don't remove that one.
      Oops... good thing you mentioned this. I deleted mine thinking it wasn't used. I wonder how the change over was acting while it was plugged directly on a vacuum line with no solenoid, no check valve. I will reinstall it tonight.

    15. Member 2003gtivr62.8liter's Avatar
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      04-26-2012 01:12 AM #15
      So it sounds like I should not delete the IMT just relocate it
      2003 VW GTI VR6 24v; Stage1 port R32 Head, ABD C.A.I., Techtonics Tuning 2.5" Highflow DP, Cat, Cat-Back w/ Borla Muffler,Neuspeed Power Pulleys; Stage 1+ Clutch Kit w/ LW Flywheel; TT 264/260 Cams; UM Tune; ECS Short Shift, Forge Side2side, 42dd shift bushings, VF Engineering mounts, H&R Rear Sway Bar, Neuspeed Upper Strut Bar, FK Rear Upper Stress,KW V2 Coils, Yellow Optima, Conti DW's, OE Euro Tails, Raxles...so on

    16. Member jaso028's Avatar
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      04-26-2012 07:40 AM #16
      so did you end up putting the resistors on yet? if so you have pics of that and how that works?
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    17. Member 2003gtivr62.8liter's Avatar
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      04-26-2012 11:50 AM #17
      No not yet. I have been busy with work and school. Hope to get back at it tomorrow.
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    18. Member jaso028's Avatar
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      04-26-2012 12:00 PM #18
      are you getting a CEL without them????
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    19. Member 2003gtivr62.8liter's Avatar
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      04-26-2012 08:46 PM #19
      Don't know haven't had a chance to do anything with the car
      2003 VW GTI VR6 24v; Stage1 port R32 Head, ABD C.A.I., Techtonics Tuning 2.5" Highflow DP, Cat, Cat-Back w/ Borla Muffler,Neuspeed Power Pulleys; Stage 1+ Clutch Kit w/ LW Flywheel; TT 264/260 Cams; UM Tune; ECS Short Shift, Forge Side2side, 42dd shift bushings, VF Engineering mounts, H&R Rear Sway Bar, Neuspeed Upper Strut Bar, FK Rear Upper Stress,KW V2 Coils, Yellow Optima, Conti DW's, OE Euro Tails, Raxles...so on

    20. Member jaso028's Avatar
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      04-27-2012 07:16 AM #20
      Oh lol
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      04-28-2012 12:09 PM #21
      Anyone else as red and brown wires going to the n112 solenoid ? Diagrams show it should be blue/yellow, brown/yellow.

    22. Member 2003gtivr62.8liter's Avatar
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      04-28-2012 04:46 PM #22
      Ok so I have called every place I can think of except the VW dealer. Where can I get the 330 ohm resistors from? Right now I am thinking of just disconnecting it and just tucking it somewhere out of the way. This is the last thing before it will be complete.
      2003 VW GTI VR6 24v; Stage1 port R32 Head, ABD C.A.I., Techtonics Tuning 2.5" Highflow DP, Cat, Cat-Back w/ Borla Muffler,Neuspeed Power Pulleys; Stage 1+ Clutch Kit w/ LW Flywheel; TT 264/260 Cams; UM Tune; ECS Short Shift, Forge Side2side, 42dd shift bushings, VF Engineering mounts, H&R Rear Sway Bar, Neuspeed Upper Strut Bar, FK Rear Upper Stress,KW V2 Coils, Yellow Optima, Conti DW's, OE Euro Tails, Raxles...so on

    23. Member 2003gtivr62.8liter's Avatar
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      04-28-2012 04:50 PM #23
      Quote Originally Posted by madonion View Post
      Anyone else as red and brown wires going to the n112 solenoid ? Diagrams show it should be blue/yellow, brown/yellow.
      I will check my wires when I get home after work and let u know.
      2003 VW GTI VR6 24v; Stage1 port R32 Head, ABD C.A.I., Techtonics Tuning 2.5" Highflow DP, Cat, Cat-Back w/ Borla Muffler,Neuspeed Power Pulleys; Stage 1+ Clutch Kit w/ LW Flywheel; TT 264/260 Cams; UM Tune; ECS Short Shift, Forge Side2side, 42dd shift bushings, VF Engineering mounts, H&R Rear Sway Bar, Neuspeed Upper Strut Bar, FK Rear Upper Stress,KW V2 Coils, Yellow Optima, Conti DW's, OE Euro Tails, Raxles...so on

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      04-28-2012 07:12 PM #24
      Never mind, diagrams are correct. I had the wrong connector.
      Last edited by madonion; 04-28-2012 at 07:20 PM.

    25. Member GRN6IX's Avatar
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      04-29-2012 08:40 AM #25
      Quote Originally Posted by 2003gtivr62.8liter View Post
      Ok so I have called every place I can think of except the VW dealer. Where can I get the 330 ohm resistors from? Right now I am thinking of just disconnecting it and just tucking it somewhere out of the way. This is the last thing before it will be complete.

      http://lmgtfy.com/?q=330+ohm+resistors

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