Wastegate ... where should rod be set?

[rains]

Looking down at my wastegate, there is about 75% of the threaded rod towards the driver's side (or wastegate diaphragm), and about 25% of threaded rod towards the passenger side.

Is it currently cranked?

Where should the rod be set, ideally? I don't want it be cranked or any of that BS, I just want it to be where it _should_ be.

[STOICH]

Only good way is to get pressure on the actuator rod and see when it cracks. In that respect, I believe it's around 6-7PSI stock; somewhere around there.

That said, I've noticed around 12-13 threads between the end of rod and the adjustment nut (first nut). Not how I would adjust, but it may ease your mind.

[rains]

very helpful, thanks a lot. I'll see if I can dig out a vacuum/ pressure gauge, see when she cracks

Thanks a ton

[bootymac]

I used this picture as a reference when adjusting my WG actuator

[rains]

I used this picture as a reference when adjusting my WG actuator

right where mine is now. Cheers

[doug@frankenturbo.com]

OP

the others posting here are just trying to be helpful, but don't go by pictures of someone else's turbo. Far better is to use a pump and gauge and set your own unit to the factory-specified 6psi crack pressure. Another route would be to unplug the N75 from power and see what boost the car holds. You should see no more than that 6psi number.

[jason bouchard]

this is a great thread, that being said its different for every model of car, What would be the correct PSI for an Audi TT K04 225?

(I'm still working on getting that wastgate on Doug, and thanks again for that )

[Cryser]

OP

the others posting here are just trying to be helpful, but don't go by pictures of someone else's turbo. Far better is to use a pump and gauge and set your own unit to the factory-specified 6psi crack pressure. Another route would be to unplug the N75 from power and see what boost the car holds. You should see no more than that 6psi number.

+1 pictures don't work that well since everyone's piping isn't the same, especially if they have a FMIC. From the factory unpower the N75 and set it to 5PSI.

[976-RADD]

Here's a helpful video, though I'm not sure how relevent it is to various stages of modded 1.8t's.

[jason bouchard]

cool video, thank you



I am still wondering if anyone knows the Stock PSI setting for the Stock wastegate for a audi TT 225Q Ko4 turbo???

Thx

[Twopnt016v]

Should be 6psi. Use a gauge to set it to 6psi or... remove the line from the n75 to to the WG. Take a piece of vac hose and extend the line from the WG to the intake manifold. Anywhere on the manifold will work, just toss a T in somewhere if you need to. You can leave the n75 lines loose, they don't need to be capped or anything. Now go drive the car and if you can boost past 6psi then the rod is set for 6psi. If you boost past 6psi then adjust the rod and go for another drive until you can boost past 6psi. Once you achieve your goals, hook everything up as it was and your good to go!

The biggest thing is to get the rod where it should be and leave it. Clamping down on it to much also removes travel from the flapper resulting in high egt's etc. since the flapper can't open all the way up. ...

[jason bouchard]

I have a tune ans my tuner said Dont change the wastegate setting but I have to replace my canister. . .

I dont wanna blow my 100k stock turbo having it improperly set.

Warrenty225 said that was prob the reason his turbo blew, because of the wastegate being improperly adjusted

[travis_gli]

OP

the others posting here are just trying to be helpful, but don't go by pictures of someone else's turbo. Far better is to use a pump and gauge and set your own unit to the factory-specified 6psi crack pressure. Another route would be to unplug the N75 from power and see what boost the car holds. You should see no more than that 6psi number.

This

[jason bouchard]

Well I hooked up a hand pressure pump and the new canister connected to the turbo, isn't moving I gave it as much as 20 psi to the nipple on the top of the waste gate actuator can and the arm doesn't move at all . . . this is the new canister it holds the pressure and there is NO leaks, I even put a new line directly to the nipple

[Twopnt016v]

Well I hooked up a hand pressure pump and the new canister connected to the turbo, isn't moving I gave it as much as 20 psi to the nipple on the top of the waste gate actuator can and the arm doesn't move at all . . . this is the new canister it holds the pressure and there is NO leaks, I even put a new line directly to the nipple

Well start adjusting the WG actuator rod...

[jason bouchard]

I did that, but i'm having issues with the wastegate not opening, It will open with spring pressure but not with the n75 really. . . so thats why I checked it with a pressure hand pump and it wont move

[warranty225cpe]

If you hooked up a hand pump, and managed to get 20 psi into it, and it didn't move, then it's set way too tight. Loosen it til it is affected by the pressure and adjust from there.

[jason bouchard]

i did that with the nuts completely loosened and there was no movement idk but maybe I broke it some how

[doug@frankenturbo.com]

sounds to me like there's a puncture or leak in the actuator canister. It's probably a goner. Oh well. There's more where that came from.

[jason bouchard]

well atleast I got the old one out and the new bolts should be easy to remove. . . Eithe way thumbs up to your help and insight, I think I'd be sunk without you hahah

[jason bouchard]

well I pulled it off and its broken/frozen, I can pull it by hand but the arm wont move with pressure hand pump at all