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    Thread: Wastegate ... where should rod be set?

    1. Member rains's Avatar
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      04-23-2012 09:20 PM #1
      Looking down at my wastegate, there is about 75% of the threaded rod towards the driver's side (or wastegate diaphragm), and about 25% of threaded rod towards the passenger side.

      Is it currently cranked?

      Where should the rod be set, ideally? I don't want it be cranked or any of that BS, I just want it to be where it _should_ be.
      Quote Originally Posted by VadGTI View Post
      This thread is now about car cakes.
      Quote Originally Posted by Cousin Eddie View Post
      Things I learned today: You don't have to pass grade 12 English to Manage a Honda dealership.

    2. 04-23-2012 09:27 PM #2
      Only good way is to get pressure on the actuator rod and see when it cracks. In that respect, I believe it's around 6-7PSI stock; somewhere around there.

      That said, I've noticed around 12-13 threads between the end of rod and the adjustment nut (first nut). Not how I would adjust, but it may ease your mind.


    3. Member rains's Avatar
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      04-23-2012 09:55 PM #3
      very helpful, thanks a lot. I'll see if I can dig out a vacuum/ pressure gauge, see when she cracks

      Thanks a ton
      Quote Originally Posted by VadGTI View Post
      This thread is now about car cakes.
      Quote Originally Posted by Cousin Eddie View Post
      Things I learned today: You don't have to pass grade 12 English to Manage a Honda dealership.

    4. Member bootymac's Avatar
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      04-24-2012 09:28 AM #4


      I used this picture as a reference when adjusting my WG actuator

    5. Member rains's Avatar
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      05-07-2012 09:47 PM #5
      Quote Originally Posted by bootymac View Post


      I used this picture as a reference when adjusting my WG actuator
      right where mine is now. Cheers
      Quote Originally Posted by VadGTI View Post
      This thread is now about car cakes.
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      Things I learned today: You don't have to pass grade 12 English to Manage a Honda dealership.

    6. Banner Advertiser doug@frankenturbo.com's Avatar
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      05-08-2012 12:37 AM #6
      OP

      the others posting here are just trying to be helpful, but don't go by pictures of someone else's turbo. Far better is to use a pump and gauge and set your own unit to the factory-specified 6psi crack pressure. Another route would be to unplug the N75 from power and see what boost the car holds. You should see no more than that 6psi number.
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    7. Member jason bouchard's Avatar
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      05-08-2012 01:19 AM #7
      this is a great thread, that being said its different for every model of car, What would be the correct PSI for an Audi TT K04 225?

      (I'm still working on getting that wastgate on Doug, and thanks again for that )

    8. 05-08-2012 01:23 AM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by doug@frankenturbo.com View Post
      OP

      the others posting here are just trying to be helpful, but don't go by pictures of someone else's turbo. Far better is to use a pump and gauge and set your own unit to the factory-specified 6psi crack pressure. Another route would be to unplug the N75 from power and see what boost the car holds. You should see no more than that 6psi number.
      +1 pictures don't work that well since everyone's piping isn't the same, especially if they have a FMIC. From the factory unpower the N75 and set it to 5PSI.

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      05-08-2012 01:07 PM #9
      Here's a helpful video, though I'm not sure how relevent it is to various stages of modded 1.8t's.

      "Yeah, I pissed myself, but that's only because I only had 20 minutes for recess." Duane Peters

    10. Member jason bouchard's Avatar
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      05-09-2012 12:36 AM #10
      cool video, thank you



      I am still wondering if anyone knows the Stock PSI setting for the Stock wastegate for a audi TT 225Q Ko4 turbo???

      Thx

    11. 05-09-2012 06:33 AM #11
      Should be 6psi. Use a gauge to set it to 6psi or... remove the line from the n75 to to the WG. Take a piece of vac hose and extend the line from the WG to the intake manifold. Anywhere on the manifold will work, just toss a T in somewhere if you need to. You can leave the n75 lines loose, they don't need to be capped or anything. Now go drive the car and if you can boost past 6psi then the rod is set for 6psi. If you boost past 6psi then adjust the rod and go for another drive until you can boost past 6psi. Once you achieve your goals, hook everything up as it was and your good to go!

      The biggest thing is to get the rod where it should be and leave it. Clamping down on it to much also removes travel from the flapper resulting in high egt's etc. since the flapper can't open all the way up. ...
      Last edited by Twopnt016v; 05-09-2012 at 06:36 AM.

    12. Member jason bouchard's Avatar
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      05-09-2012 02:40 PM #12
      I have a tune ans my tuner said Dont change the wastegate setting but I have to replace my canister. . .

      I dont wanna blow my 100k stock turbo having it improperly set.

      Warrenty225 said that was prob the reason his turbo blew, because of the wastegate being improperly adjusted

    13. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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      05-09-2012 02:59 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by doug@frankenturbo.com View Post
      OP

      the others posting here are just trying to be helpful, but don't go by pictures of someone else's turbo. Far better is to use a pump and gauge and set your own unit to the factory-specified 6psi crack pressure. Another route would be to unplug the N75 from power and see what boost the car holds. You should see no more than that 6psi number.
      This

    14. Member jason bouchard's Avatar
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      07-08-2012 05:21 PM #14
      Well I hooked up a hand pressure pump and the new canister connected to the turbo, isn't moving I gave it as much as 20 psi to the nipple on the top of the waste gate actuator can and the arm doesn't move at all . . . this is the new canister it holds the pressure and there is NO leaks, I even put a new line directly to the nipple

    15. 07-08-2012 05:22 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by jason bouchard View Post
      Well I hooked up a hand pressure pump and the new canister connected to the turbo, isn't moving I gave it as much as 20 psi to the nipple on the top of the waste gate actuator can and the arm doesn't move at all . . . this is the new canister it holds the pressure and there is NO leaks, I even put a new line directly to the nipple
      Well start adjusting the WG actuator rod...

    16. Member jason bouchard's Avatar
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      07-08-2012 05:52 PM #16
      I did that, but i'm having issues with the wastegate not opening, It will open with spring pressure but not with the n75 really. . . so thats why I checked it with a pressure hand pump and it wont move

    17. 07-08-2012 08:06 PM #17
      If you hooked up a hand pump, and managed to get 20 psi into it, and it didn't move, then it's set way too tight. Loosen it til it is affected by the pressure and adjust from there.

    18. Member jason bouchard's Avatar
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      07-08-2012 08:42 PM #18
      i did that with the nuts completely loosened and there was no movement idk but maybe I broke it some how

    19. Banner Advertiser doug@frankenturbo.com's Avatar
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      07-08-2012 10:57 PM #19
      sounds to me like there's a puncture or leak in the actuator canister. It's probably a goner. Oh well. There's more where that came from.
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    20. Member jason bouchard's Avatar
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      07-08-2012 11:00 PM #20
      well atleast I got the old one out and the new bolts should be easy to remove. . . Eithe way thumbs up to your help and insight, I think I'd be sunk without you hahah

    21. Member jason bouchard's Avatar
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      07-09-2012 03:05 PM #21
      well I pulled it off and its broken/frozen, I can pull it by hand but the arm wont move with pressure hand pump at all

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