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    VWVortex


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    Thread: GAS To Diesel MK2 ..............

    1. 04-24-2012 04:17 AM #1
      Haven't started in on the gasser yet , still collecting parts for the build

      Donor car 1985 1.6TD , only using Pump , T3 Turbo , and Tranny ,,,, I have a 1.9 long block (AAZ)

      Candidate Car 1990 small bumper Jetta Gli

      Will have a complete 9A Motor and trans and a 1.6TD long block soon for sale

      Question ,,, what are some good things to pull from the donor 85 ????

      Cluster, throttle cable , cold start cable , ??????

      Gas tank ??? whole thing???

      thanks

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      04-25-2012 04:46 AM #2
      Thats basically it, the whole gas tank isnt nessecary, just the fuel sender unit for your fuel guage.. and before you remove the gas pump from the gasser, use it to empty the gasoline out of the tank.. then fill it with diesel and show us pics of the results cheers

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      04-25-2012 04:48 AM #3
      Oh and I forgot the Glow plug relay, you'll need that too!!

    4. 04-25-2012 05:27 AM #4
      Aren't the filler necks different on the tanks ,,,, the only reason I am curious about the whole tank was someone said a diesel MK2 tank and filler neck are one piece unlike MK1 , I just have been super swamped and haven't taken the time to look .

      Thanks for the input

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      04-25-2012 07:23 PM #5
      There is a plastic reducer inside the filler neck that must be taken out. When I put a diesel in my 86 jetta I was able to use a screw driver and a pair of pliers to get it out. You have to break it into pieces to get it out.
      Last edited by ohfllifer; 04-25-2012 at 07:25 PM.
      ‘Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not.’

    6. 04-25-2012 09:35 PM #6
      One last concern the Tach from the diesel , what is that ran off

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      04-26-2012 04:30 AM #7
      On 1.6 diesels the tach is mechanically driven by a cable connected to the trans.. 1.9's have a sensor operated tach.. Apparently you can use the cable driven one with the 1.9 trans just replace the sensor with the mechanically driven unit.. good luck!!

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      04-26-2012 10:42 AM #8
      the tach gets its signal from the W terminal on the alternator... They are definitely not mechanically driven

      The Speedo gets it signal from a gear/cable at the transmission
      Last edited by trips_b; 04-26-2012 at 10:44 AM.

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      04-26-2012 02:39 PM #9
      Quote Originally Posted by dieselover View Post
      On 1.6 diesels the tach is mechanically driven by a cable connected to the trans.. 1.9's have a sensor operated tach.. Apparently you can use the cable driven one with the 1.9 trans just replace the sensor with the mechanically driven unit.. good luck!!
      lmfao... wrong..

      NEITHER engine uses a cable driven from the trans. that would be the SPEEDOMETER.

      the 1.6 and 1.9 idi both get their tach signal from the W signal off the alternator..

      as far as the tank restrictor, bring a funnel with you for the first few times you fill it up. but yes, as was mentioned, you can break the plastic restrictor out of the fill neck with a screw driver, and pair of pliers..

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      04-26-2012 05:24 PM #10
      If I was doing this, I would not waste any time attempting to wire the GP circuit as original. It simply does not need to be automatic in any way. A spring loaded momentary toggle switch to operate a Ford starter relay which in turn controls the GP power would do very well. You can learn to know how long the glow plugs need power at various temperatures. The time must be long enough but after that is not critical and with Bosch Duraterm plugs, a little extra glow time should not be a problem.

    11. 04-26-2012 06:39 PM #11
      When I pulled the Tach out I swear there was only one cable going to it , so will I need to add wire from the Diesel Tach to worK

      Has anyone heard that diesel fuel lines are bigger than gasoline lines



      How much wiring do I need to pull from the 1.6 D

      are the connection in the dash the same from 1.6 D to 16v ?

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      04-27-2012 10:33 AM #12
      The 1 cable on the instrument cluster is your Speedo cable and it plugs in directly behind the Speedo.

      Your 85 is CE1 and your 90 is more than likely CE2. Meaning your going to have a fair bit of wire splicing to do. Short of pulling and swapping the entire harnesses and fuse panel.

      Personally I would pull the entire engine management harness from the 85 and splice it into your 90. except for the lighting harness

      You'll have to do some splicing for the cluster being CE1 is dual plugs and CE2 is 1 plug. Also having to add your tach signal from the W terminal on the alternator

      im not familiar with CE2 but if you haven't bookmarked the page http://www.a2resource.com/ you should it'll be your best asset for this swap

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      04-27-2012 08:56 PM #13
      And, another thing, a tach is useless on an old IDI diesel. I would not spend any time with a tach until the big part is done which would be getting the car functional. I do not have a tach. The engine is self indicating in that acceleration (if you can call it that) drops off long before valve float occurs. I have never experienced valve float with my diesel and do not drive it gently a fair amount of the time. The engine is very tough and durable in that revving it up until acceleration drops off has had no adverse effects.

      Edit: With a turbo, things might be different.

      If you can transplant a diesel gauge cluster, you get a large, impressive looking and accurate digital clock, as large as the speedometer and in my estimation, far more useful than a tach.
      Last edited by Tinker Toy; 04-27-2012 at 09:02 PM.

    14. 04-27-2012 10:09 PM #14
      The tach is a must for on this build ,,,, I'm using a laggy T3 Turbo and the Pump has a 1.9 cam plate and Governor Mod done to it , so just want to keep it on the safe side if I have the option to do so.

      My first build 1.6/aaz head T3 gov pump , NO TACH ,,, thing will spin to the Moon , at those RPM's the motor will not last long. though I try no to drive like that often.

      This weekend I am going to pull the cluster from my 90 gas ,,,, what are the visual difference from Ce1 to Ce2 ,,,,, from the website given above the Ce1 cuts off at 1990 and my car is a 89 build date sold in 1990.

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      04-28-2012 12:02 AM #15
      the quickest way to tell would be to look at your fuse panel. They are both different right down to the fuse numbering ie. fuse 1 on ce1 is 30A rad fan, and its 19 one ce2

    16. 04-28-2012 11:18 PM #16
      Would a CE2 Cluster/ w / Tach make anything easier

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      04-28-2012 11:53 PM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by 84GLIRacer View Post
      Would a CE2 Cluster/ w / Tach make anything easier
      diesel cluster?

    18. 04-29-2012 02:20 AM #18
      Yes Diesel Cluster

      I have a CE1 D Cluster with tach , but the car it's going into is CE2

      Just wondering if I score on a CE2 D Cluster W/tach it will save me from a bunch of wiring

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      04-29-2012 01:29 PM #19
      Yes, it should basically be plug and play at that point. But you may still need to add the tach signal wire. All diesel cars were prewired for this even if the had the clock instead of the tach, however I highly doubt that the gas cars have this wire.

      The tach signal on diesels is also part of the dynamic oil pressure sytem. You can however just run a wire from the 'W' terminal on your alternator directly to the instrument cluster.

      Other things to watch out for are going to be the stop solenoid wire. its switched from the ignition and lets the fuel flow when provided 12v and its what shuts the engine off via cutting off the fuel. You can bypass this through the ignition and have a toggle switch on your dash for the solenoid. But you'd have to be careful not to hit when your driving lol

      As well your going to need to set up your glow plugs, like mentioned in your thread previously. There is no need to wire it back up stock per say. Many people do the ford/tractor starter relay mod, I have and i like it. The relay itself should be plug and play and there should be a terminal on the back of the fuse panel for the 12v feed to glow plugs, you'll have to run a wire from that terminal to either a relay setup as mentioned or do a stock setup - fuse panel -> 50A fuse -> glowplug 4 -> 3 -> 2 -> 1

      I still personally think one of the best ways is to take out the harness that has all the engine management (oil pressure sensors, coolant sensor <-which is also for your glow plugs, stop solenoid, tach signal, etc) from your donor car all the way back to the ce1 fuse panel. Then splice it into the ce2, the gasser is also going to have extra wires that will have to be deleted in its engine management harness like MAF sensor, cold start, injector rail, etc

      Good luck

      btw i am definatley not an authority on this and there are people that have done this before keep searching and reading get yourself a manual if you dont already, and get at er! things will make more sense as your doing it and nothing ever works perfectly the first time, dont get frustrated

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      04-29-2012 01:33 PM #20
      Quote Originally Posted by trips_b View Post
      Yes, it should basically be plug and play at that point. But you may still need to add the tach signal wire. All diesel cars were prewired for this even if the had the clock instead of the tach, however I highly doubt that the gas cars have this wire.

      The tach signal on diesels is also part of the dynamic oil pressure sytem. You can however just run a wire from the 'W' terminal on your alternator directly to the instrument cluster.

      Other things to watch out for are going to be the stop solenoid wire. its switched from the ignition and lets the fuel flow when provided 12v and its what shuts the engine off via cutting off the fuel. You can bypass this through the ignition and have a toggle switch on your dash for the solenoid. But you'd have to be careful not to hit when your driving lol

      As well your going to need to set up your glow plugs, like mentioned in your thread previously. There is no need to wire it back up stock per say. Many people do the ford/tractor starter relay mod, I have and i like it. The relay itself should be plug and play and there should be a terminal on the back of the fuse panel for the 12v feed to glow plugs, you'll have to run a wire from that terminal to either a relay setup as mentioned or do a stock setup - fuse panel -> 50A fuse -> glowplug 4 -> 3 -> 2 -> 1

      I still personally think one of the best ways is to take out the harness that has all the engine management (oil pressure sensors, coolant sensor <-which is also for your glow plugs, stop solenoid, tach signal, etc) from your donor car all the way back to the ce1 fuse panel. Then splice it into the ce2, the gasser is also going to have extra wires that will have to be deleted in its engine management harness like MAF sensor, cold start, injector rail, etc

      Good luck

      btw i am definatley not an authority on this and there are people that have done this before keep searching and reading get yourself a manual if you dont already, and get at er! things will make more sense as your doing it and nothing ever works perfectly the first time, dont get frustrated

      you can remove the WHOLE gasser harness, and whats left, you will need for your diesel anyways..

      then you can power the stop solenoid with the coil power wire like i did..

    21. 04-30-2012 04:21 AM #21
      Well I have been on the hunt for a CE2 D cluster w/tach , not having a lot of luck , one for 150 , just don't want to to drop that right now ,,,, so

      to keep things simple I would still need a CE2 cluster W/clock now ,,,, can a aftermarket Tach be used IE: Large Autometer ,,,,, to the W terminal
      Last edited by 84GLIRacer; 04-30-2012 at 08:53 AM.

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