Max dizzy advance for 1.6

[type17]

Hey you guys, I know the stock setting for a 1.6 is 3 after top, but what's the max I can go on this motor?

[type17]

Anyone?

[antichristonwheels]

359 degrees btdc

[Eistreiber]

359 degrees btdc

well played!


To answer the OP's question; it depends... on a lot. Fuel grade, load, temp, how much you like replacing pistons. All are relevant variables.

If you don't have a knock sensor ignition (an older 1.6L won't, that should be '79 or earlier IIRC) set to factory specification.

OTOH it's your car, if you trust your ears advance until it knocks under load; back off a few degrees from that and run with it. Be aware that before you hear any knocking you'll have already beat your rod bearings, damage can happen before you hear it.

There's easier ways to get more power, if that's what you're after. I'd look at a 1.8L hydraulic, and maybe a G-grind cam, better exhaust, stuff like that.

[type17]

Fascinating information.

[Eistreiber]

Fascinating information.

Not sure but I think you're being sarcastic, I was not.

Given the info you provided (1.6L engine), the years involved (for Sciroccos, and you ARE in the Scirocco forum...) are pre- 1980, at least.

I know those cars do not have (stock) knock sensor ignition, so setting ignition timing is setting it for all rpm, load, vacuum, and other variables (as adjusted by the vacuum advance). That means what you set is what you run, and the engine has only limited means to protect itself if you get it wrong.

The only reason to advance timing is to gain power. To put it more accurately, to regain power that is wasted by timing being too retarded. If the engine fires too late, some power is lost. But if it fires too early, the pressure wave hits the piston as it is still coming up to TDC; this is detonation, and can be ID'd by your gasoline engine sounding like a diesel. For a while, then you have holes in your piston crowns. The noise goes away, so does compression.

I said tune by ear, at your own risk. I meant exactly that. Your car, your call; and I told you how to do it. Your risk, clear?

If you don't know what you're doing, or expect a simplistic answer to a complex problem... I recommend setting to spec for now; go do some research and learn enough to understand the variables involved and consequences of being wrong, and decide how much time/ money you're willing to risk on getting right a process that you seem to have little understanding of.

[ydrogs]

decide how much money you're willing to risk

1.6l engine = $25

[Eistreiber]

1.6l engine = $25

1.7l solid not much more, 1.8L hydraulic a bit over that, but still doable.


Time/ effort to swap driveline (get an FF transaxle while yer at it): PRICELESS.

Heya, Gordy! +

[83mk2scirocco]

Is this about a distribator rotor?Fuel distribator dizzy?
Or should the question have realy said what is the max ignition timming for
a 1.6?

[J. Daniel]

There seems to be an assumption here that ignition timing just short of detonation will produce maximum power.
Undoubtedly true with a forced induction engine running on pump gas.
Probably not true on a low compression normally aspirated engine. (1.6L VW four)
I'd bet you could run 45° WOT advance and it wouldn't ping with 91 octane gas where the engine would probably make max power closer to 30° WOT advance.

Bear in mind that WOT advance is NOT mechanical advance plus vacuum advance. Vacuum advance isn't advanced when there's no manifold vacuum such at WOT.

Personally, I'd disconnect any vacuum advance or retard and with the engine running 3000-3500 RPM set the advance to 30° maybe plus/minus a couple °. Need an adjustable timing light but that shouldn't be hard to find.