2.0t bucks at higher RPMs

[CE-13]

I bought this car a few days ago. Long story short, in 3rd and 4th reving over 4000 rpms causes it start to stutter/buck(misfire?) I get a flashing CEL. From what iv gathered new sparkplugs, coilpacks, boostleak test, seems like the right thing to try first. Normal driving I have 0 issues what so ever. I plan on have autozone get me the CEL code tomorrow. Its a 2.0 with a garret t3 turbo w/ intercooler @ 8psi.. list goes on and on. Basically feels like ist trying to decide if its a 2.0 or a 2.0t after 4000rpm

-update: So looking closely at at gauges when this happens. In order this is what happens. Boost drops and trys to regain, begins to sputter, if i stay on it i get a Flashing CEL. A leak somewhere? I personally think it has to do with the GReddy (Bov) maybe not closing completely. Any input? Car has also randomly been taking about 3 seconds to turn over, but this is only after letting it sit for an hour or more. Turning the key to the second notch doesnt yelled different results.

-update: my upside down video
Video- http://www.flickr.com/photos/5780098...in/photostream

EDIT(4-30): 1997 VW Golf GTI 2.0L ABA. <132,000 miles. FK 60/40 cup kit. Front and rear upper strut bars. R32-look smoked projectors with Audi OEM HID swap. Custom turbo kit w/ Garrett/Turbonetics T3 60trim. GReddy Type-S BOV (DV). Black FMIC with DIY piping. 210cc Passat AEB injectors w/ 4bar FPR. Audi OEM Ronal R8's. European VR6 lip. Auto-to-manual swap from donor car. Peloquin LSD. .75 Diesel 5th gear. Transmission rebuilt <10,000 miles ago. Redline MTL synthetic fluid used. Green-to-red dash LED swap w/ full custom LED cluster lighting. MK4 tape deck with VW iPod adapter and custom cupholder mount. All receipts for the last 4 years. I am a Maintenance Mechanic by trade, so this car has NEVER been neglected of anything.
Would make a great track/autocross/hill-climb/weekend fun car. I have used it as a daily driver for many years, but it's time to move on for me. It starts, stops and drives 100% great. I have had ZERO reliability issues with the car as a daily driver.

[emkaytree]

Before you blow money at cheap no brand/bad brand parts at autozone (they do have some oem things but don't think a coil would be one, could be wrong.) I would spray test it first. Open garrage at night. Pull in car. Pop hood prop, dim lights motor still running. Spray coil and wire area once to detirmine where it is arching. It may be arching from a wire, or the coil. Even the rotor inside cap can arc I believe. You can open the distributor cap now and inspect the rotor. If it's burned, she's done.

1stvwparts.com
europartsdirect.com
mjmautohaus.com

ignore chineseautoparts.com

[CE-13]

Yeah. I don't plan on getting parts from autozone, just a free engine code

[emkaytree]

If nothing visibly arches, and the rotor inside distro cap looks good, replace the coil.

[CE-13]

But just to clarify it loses its "umph" after you climb above 4000k. Then I get an instant flashing Cel light. But only in 3rd and 4th. 1st and 2nd are perfect... I don't dare to do it in 5th (nice long gear)

[emkaytree]

Flashing cel is like 100% ignition related man. Chillax. Do what I suggested. React as suggested. Report back.

[CE-13]

thanks for the help im new to vws, grew up with them tho. Dad loves em. And i love my first, i hope to keep it around for years and year to come. will report back. would you still suggest still getting the code? or skip because of the flashing cel pointing toward ignition

[CE-13]

if i was to get new plugs what kind gap should i be looking at?

[corrado1013]

If you have a 2.0t you should search the FI forum for the recommended plug gap and heat range. Not gonna be the same as the NA specs..

[Sallad]

Everything was done right...

Apparently not.

When the Ignition Control Module started to fail on my 16v, it would cause a similar situation, it felt like the spark was cutting in and out.

[JohnStamos]

What is your A/F reading when this happens? Sounds like one of 2 issues. Going pig rich and misfiring, or going super lean and lean missing.


What diverter valve are you using? What management? Where is your maf placement before the turbo EXACTLY?



Also, I need a COMPLETE engine breakdown to know where to even start. DO NOT buy stock spark plugs, and do not gap them to stock specs. You need eithe r1/2 heat ranges colder then stock, but that depends on your complete setup.

[CE-13]

A/f ratio according to the my aftermarket gauge is rich. Im using a Greddy bov. And heres a picture of the set up. Turbo is between the block and firewall. Has a nice in big intercooler up front.

[corrado1013]

Not saying I know much about turbos, but that BOV setup looks kinda iffy. At least it's diverted though..

[CE-13]

yeah. i really dont have the time to trouble shoot. The shop i took it to before said that it wasnt actually misfiring from what they could tell. But i tightened up what i could until the ****ty adapeter on my wrench fell of and some how managed to fall between the radiator fan blades to the bottom of the fan casing.tried for an hour to fish it out with no luck. its not hurting anything so ill let it be for now But back on topic. Any idea what a shop would charge to check and repair leaks in the turbo system? Im starting to think there is a turbo leak because it happens at peak boost and it feels like the car is switching from a 2.0t to a 2.0 back and forth 2-3 times a second. still fast as hell, just dont want the issue

[CE-13]

I could pm a video link later if anyone is interested

[VW_MK3_270]

Damn dude. Rock'n the stock fuel rail on a turbo setup. Thats what I would like to do. Do you know what injectors you got and if it has an inline fuel pump?

As far as your current issue goes... I'm not really too sure. Its probably spark or fuel. The fact that it only happens in 3rd and 4th is kind of strange. Did you try looking for an arc at the coil or inspect the distributor?

Hope you get it worked out.

[CE-13]

this is what the original owner says.


1997 VW Golf GTI 2.0L ABA. <132,000 miles. FK 60/40 cup kit. Front and rear upper strut bars. R32-look smoked projectors with Audi OEM HID swap. Custom turbo kit w/ Garrett/Turbonetics T3 60trim. GReddy Type-S BOV (DV). Black FMIC with DIY piping. 210cc Passat AEB injectors w/ 4bar FPR. Audi OEM Ronal R8's. European VR6 lip. Auto-to-manual swap from donor car. Peloquin LSD. .75 Diesel 5th gear. Transmission rebuilt <10,000 miles ago. Redline MTL synthetic fluid used. Green-to-red dash LED swap w/ full custom LED cluster lighting. MK4 tape deck with VW iPod adapter and custom cupholder mount. All receipts for the last 4 years. I am a Maintenance Mechanic by trade, so this car has NEVER been neglected of anything.
Would make a great track/autocross/hill-climb/weekend fun car. I have used it as a daily driver for many years, but it's time to move on for me. It starts, stops and drives 100% great. I have had ZERO reliability issues with the car as a daily driver.

[AJmustDIE]

Sounds like a boost leak, not hard to believe either since I see exhaust tubing and regular hose clamps. Also that DV line looks weird..

Not to mention.. what kind of management is this thing running?

[CE-13]

would a boost leak cause a flashing CEL though?

[emkaytree]

Sure wouldn't.

Still thinking ignition. If this distro and rotor look ok, start throwing yard coils and icm's in it.

Of course after inspecting plugs and wires. Test wires with a multimeter I think, not sure the settings, maybe someone knows? Would like to know myself. Ty.

How old's that timing belt? Old ones just getting out of spec length will cause some poor detonation before total shtf.

[AJmustDIE]

Boost leak means going incredibly rich, going incredibly rich means cylinder over-saturation and misfiring to the point where it starts bucking. So yes it could be related, just saying. Def would scan it though and see what code comes up when the CEL starts flashing if possible.

[CE-13]

cylinder 2 misfire code

[VW_MK3_270]

cylinder 2 misfire code

What next? Change plug and wire?

[vw_dubi_mk3]

I have this same problem with my aba 2.0t. Where does the BOV divert too? Back to the turbo intake and before the MAF?

[CE-13]

Ill have to check where it goes to but i think its what you are saying. Honestly will $500 and a mechanic be any good? I really have no time to work on it. i go to school 7-3 and work 4-12ish and it takes 30mins to get home from school and 20 to get to work leaving me with 10 mins to spare in my average day. I did notice today when it happened that the boost gauge was bouncing from 5-9psi. So tightened what i could and double clamped things that look weaker than others. From what i could tell the low end is now more responsive and it idles a little smoother, but it still had stuttering in 3rd and 4th at high rpms. Maybe the BOV cant handle the 9psi

[CE-13]

up

[vw_dubi_mk3]

Well I would figure out where your BOV is diverting. Because it needs to divert to the turbo intake after the MAF.

That was my problem the BOV was right before my throttle body and is wasn't diverted. So it was blowing off half of the air the MAF metered. There for it ran super rich and would miss in higher rpms.

[CE-13]

alright ill take a look at it and report back

[WakusPakus]

coilpack on a 2.0?

[CE-13]

Piping as follows. Intercooler to maf... in between these is the welded pipe going to the bov, the bov diverts to just before the actually turbo. Car definitely running rich (gasoline smell) sensor says the same.

[CE-13]

Took a video of it earlier if anybody wants a look. 3rd gear pull.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/5780098...in/photostream

[CE-13]

So looking closely at at gauges when this happens. In order this is what happens. Boost drops and trys to regain, begins to sputter, if i stay on it i get a Flashing CEL. A leak somewhere? I personally think it has to do with the GReddy (Bov) maybe not closing a completely. Any input? Car has also randomly been taking about 3 seconds to turn over, but this is only after letting it sit for an hour or more. Turning the key to the second notch doesnt yelled different results.