How about polishing the concrete? It can be really sharp looking if done right. They do it at places like Home Depot, etc., but it can be done nicer.
I have RaceDeck in my garage, which I like. Also another option.
Adam
#1
I'm thinking of having my garage floor finished. I've had experience using the epoxies from HD or Lowes, but they all seem to chip or come up after a couple years. I want something that will last for +10 years.
Does anyone have experience with Garage Innovations of Seattle? Or can someone recommend a company that does hi end garage coating at a reasonable price? I'm willing to spend around $1k for the labor and materials.
OR if someone knows where I can buy some polyaspartic coating, I'll do it myself.
Last edited by shimmy2244; 04-28-2012 at 04:34 PM.
-brandon
#2
How about polishing the concrete? It can be really sharp looking if done right. They do it at places like Home Depot, etc., but it can be done nicer.
I have RaceDeck in my garage, which I like. Also another option.
Adam
#3
This is relevant to my interests. I was wanting to put a finish on the floor in my garage before I move into my house.
#4
Looks like Rhino Lining now has a DIYer kit. Comes with everything needed, but its still epoxy type.
-brandon
#5
PM Armydubvr6 aka Josh... I heard hes bought material for a garage floor.![]()
#6
I did a lot of research before I chose my race deck. In 2005 I figured I could do epoxy for around $1500 for a 750sqft shop. Prices probably changed by now but I don't see why you couldn't of under $1000 for a normal sized garage. I was very close to doing it, but consulted a professional company before I pulled the trigger and this is what they told me. They actually talked me out of it.
The first two things you need to know is A)How old is the slab of concrete in the garage? and B) Do you do not have a vapor barrier under it? That can be one of the causes of chipping and flaking. What will happened if you don't have it is, the epoxy will encapsulate the water in the concrete and not allow it to breath. The vapor barrier will not allow water in if you do have it. What I learned about my slab was it didn't a vapor barrier cause it seeped with water every time it rained. I was told that I would have a problem with in 2-3 years. Also old concrete might have oil and chemicals absorbed into it for years so that can also be a way that it won't chip or bubble over time.
If you do have a vapor barrier, it's a newer slab this I would do epoxy. These are what my plans were to do the floor in my shop:
1)Start by renting a floor sander at Home Depot and sand the concrete down really good. This will allow the concrete primer to stick to the floor the best.
2)With a wet dry van, vacuum the floor really well.
3)Apply a nice thick coat of concrete primer. After you sand down the concrete, a lot of it will absorb into the concrete because it is very porous..
4)Apply 2 coats of epoxy or one thick coat. The the thicker the better, but since it is expensive 1 thick or 2 thin coats should be fine. If you do 2 coats put the second coat on when the first coat is still kind of tacky, then sprinkle the plastic chips on that coat.
5)Use clear coat. Of corse the thicker the better it will look and protect.
6)Wait 5-7 days for everything to cure before you drive on it.
———————————————————————— MEISTER WERKS ~ Automotive Styling—————————————————————————
• POWDER COATING • VINYL GRAPHICS • CUSTOM CENTER CAPS • WHEEL REFINISHING • MOUNTING & BALANCING TIRES •
~~~~~~~ Bilstein • AirLift • Bar Riders • Air Zenith • K-Sport • Accu-Air • CNC Plasma Cutting • Simply Spacers ~~~~~~~
#7
Great info Dave! thanks!
My garage does have a vapor barrier. It would be such less of a hassle to pay someone to just do this for me. Not to mention they will warranty the work some. My garage is little less than 750sqft, so I'd end up spending over $600 in materials/tools alone for a good epoxy. But there is still some self gratification for doing it myself and its an easy job to do. I'm really researching this polyaspartic stuff. Seems to last much longer and adhere better.
-brandon
#8
———————————————————————— MEISTER WERKS ~ Automotive Styling—————————————————————————
• POWDER COATING • VINYL GRAPHICS • CUSTOM CENTER CAPS • WHEEL REFINISHING • MOUNTING & BALANCING TIRES •
~~~~~~~ Bilstein • AirLift • Bar Riders • Air Zenith • K-Sport • Accu-Air • CNC Plasma Cutting • Simply Spacers ~~~~~~~
#9
Found this stuff. I'm gonna get two kits. That should be enough to cover my garage.
http://www.epoxymaster.com/index.php
-brandon
#10
I've done quite a few garages. From my experience, it's all about the prep work, & you got to let the concrete dry before you paint, & then you got to let the floor dry before you drive on it. Expect the garage to be out of commission for about a week or more, depending on the weather.
Best time to do the floor is in the summer when we get our 2-4 weeks of no rain.
I have never sanded, just used degreaser, then acid, then a good rinse, & let it dry, this process can takes hours. Wear crap cloths, & shoes, they will be trashed after. Of course you need to move EVERYTHING out of the garage. I've done 2 medium thickness coats. For a small 1 car it runs about $150 for everything.
#11
It's also worth doing a little homework on www.garagejournal.com (another of my favorite forums). They have an entire section just on floor coverings, with tons of helpful info. Some of the manufacturers even post on there.
Adam
#12
I didn't know you could get this detailed with epoxy. Pretty cool stuff!
![]()
———————————————————————— MEISTER WERKS ~ Automotive Styling—————————————————————————
• POWDER COATING • VINYL GRAPHICS • CUSTOM CENTER CAPS • WHEEL REFINISHING • MOUNTING & BALANCING TIRES •
~~~~~~~ Bilstein • AirLift • Bar Riders • Air Zenith • K-Sport • Accu-Air • CNC Plasma Cutting • Simply Spacers ~~~~~~~