01M has slow shift from 3rd to 4th...no codes

[2.Slow_&_CC]

I've searched the archives and haven't been able to identify a similar problem. I have an 01M and when it shifts from 3rd to 4th, the car forcefully lowers rpms (slows the car down slightly), and then finally shifts. Overall the shifting takes about 3-5 seconds when doing the shift. It really feels like the brakes are being applied while the shift is taking place.

I changed the fluid about 10k miles ago, and no problems. I rechecked fluid levels and it seemed perfect. Fluid had a slight brown translucent color, but did not smell burnt.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. As stated above, I am not getting any codes either. Could this be a torque converter problem?

[2.Slow_&_CC]

Also, I'm wondering if its not the transmission at all, but maybe the MAF sensor? All other shifting feels fine. I reset the throttle body, but that didn't help. I'll clean the MAF soon and see if that helps.

[2.Slow_&_CC]

I cleaned the MAF last night and no change in the hard shifting. However, I did unpluf the MAF completely and drove it that way and there was no change in the driving behavior either. I think I remember somebody stating if you unplug the MAF and there is no difference, your MAF is bad. Anybody know the answer to this?

[CoolAirVw]

I've searched the archives and haven't been able to identify a similar problem. I have an 01M and when it shifts from 3rd to 4th, the car forcefully lowers rpms (slows the car down slightly), and then finally shifts. Overall the shifting takes about 3-5 seconds when doing the shift. It really feels like the brakes are being applied while the shift is taking place.

based on what your describing it sounds like a bind up. I have fixed one doing this with a solenoid.

The k1 clutch has to be off in 4th or else it will work in opposition of the b2 clutch. Basically the B2 clutch tries to stop a drum that the k1 is forcing to spin. So if the k1 stays on as b2 comes on then there is a bind up. Bind up on auto trans usually feels like putting on the brakes although a real quick bind up may just be a quick jerk.

n88 solenoid is responsible for turning on the k1 clutch. If n88 sticks "on" it can cause exactly what your describing.

It cant be garenteed but its real cheap to try. Location of n88 solenoid is in the thread below.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=334614

If you want to try a solenoid email this guy....

http://www.kansascitytdi.com/

[Stangrcr1]

Quite the description CoolAir.

Any codes?

And I have heard the same about the MAF, but don't know that it is true...

[2.Slow_&_CC]

based on what your describing it sounds like a bind up. I have fixed one doing this with a solenoid.

The k1 clutch has to be off in 4th or else it will work in opposition of the b2 clutch. Basically the B2 clutch tries to stop a drum that the k1 is forcing to spin. So if the k1 stays on as b2 comes on then there is a bind up. Bind up on auto trans usually feels like putting on the brakes although a real quick bind up may just be a quick jerk.

n88 solenoid is responsible for turning on the k1 clutch. If n88 sticks "on" it can cause exactly what your describing.

It cant be garenteed but its real cheap to try. Location of n88 solenoid is in the thread below.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=334614

If you want to try a solenoid email this guy....

http://www.kansascitytdi.com/

Thanks for the suggestion. I ended up dropping it off at a tranny shop since this is above and beyond my capabilities. I will let you know what their answer/suggestion is.

Before this, I did replace the MAF, but that did not fix the issue.

[2.Slow_&_CC]

well, bad news from the shop. After spending about 3 hours trying to diagnose the problem (and ensure it wasn't a random sensor), they recommended either to keep driving, or do an entire rebuild since otherwise they would potential fool around here or there and not actually fix the problem. They've definitely identified as something internal, and after dropping the pan noticed a sheen to the fluid indicating something is breaking down.

Unfortunately, they want $2500 for the rebuild, which is more than I'm willing to spend. I put a feeler on the classified to see if there is any interest.

[Stangrcr1]

I spent over $2k on my daughter's 01M rebuild and I did all the work.

These trans are not cheap.

Trying a solenoid and changing the fluid is way cheaper to at least try.....

I have a sheen on my nutsack, so what. I would tell them they have no idea what they are looking at. I have definitely identified a shop not to go to.

[VaBeachwesty]

based on what your describing it sounds like a bind up. I have fixed one doing this with a solenoid.

The k1 clutch has to be off in 4th or else it will work in opposition of the b2 clutch. Basically the B2 clutch tries to stop a drum that the k1 is forcing to spin. So if the k1 stays on as b2 comes on then there is a bind up. Bind up on auto trans usually feels like putting on the brakes although a real quick bind up may just be a quick jerk.

n88 solenoid is responsible for turning on the k1 clutch. If n88 sticks "on" it can cause exactly what your describing.

It cant be garenteed but its real cheap to try. Location of n88 solenoid is in the thread below.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=334614

If you want to try a solenoid email this guy....

http://www.kansascitytdi.com/

I know the thread is old but what CoolAirVw is describing (Bind up) is happening on my 2nd to third gear shift on my 01M. Do you have any idea what solenoid could be affecting the bind up in my shift? Any help would be appreciated.

[CoolAirVw]

I know the thread is old but what CoolAirVw is describing (Bind up) is happening on my 2nd to third gear shift on my 01M. Do you have any idea what solenoid could be affecting the bind up in my shift? Any help would be appreciated.

I've never fixed a similar problem on the 2-3, but it is possible.

The n89 controls the B2 clutch. B2 is on in 2nd and if it stays on when the K3 comes on in 3rd it would cause a bind. So theoretically if hte n89 was sticky then it might cause this.

[CoolAirVw]

The following is a Rant for no good reason as lots of time has passed since this post.

After spending about 3 hours trying to diagnose the problem (and ensure it wasn't a random sensor), they recommended either to keep driving, or do an entire rebuild since otherwise they would potential fool around here or there and not actually fix the problem. They've definitely identified as something internal, and after dropping the pan noticed a sheen to the fluid indicating something is breaking down.

Unfortunately, they want $2500 for the rebuild, which is more than I'm willing to spend. I put a feeler on the classified to see if there is any interest.

Good grief! It would take 1 hour and a $30 dollar part to try the solenoid I suggested. Why do folks ask for help then not take the advice when its given??

Trans shop didn't want to "fool around and not fix it".. of course not! Why try to fix it for 90 bucks when they can sell him a rebuild for $2500!

They've definitely identified as something internal, and after dropping the pan noticed a sheen to the fluid indicating something is breaking down.

Hogwash! "sheen to the fluid"???? Oh come on now!! All Vw's have dark fluid because noone changes the fluid as Vw calles it lifetime fluid. They didn't say there was fine metal, they didn't say there was metal chunks, they didn't say there was clutch material.





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[CoolAirVw]

Trying a solenoid and changing the fluid is way cheaper to at least try.....

I have a sheen on my nutsack, so what. I would tell them they have no idea what they are looking at. I have definitely identified a shop not to go to.

I just noticed that Strangercr1 had basically the same sentiments I have, and is much more able to convey in no uncertain terms what I was trying to say!