Why is my 8v not running

[cll2993]

I just rebuilt my 8v and have all but the vacuum line on the side to the booster and one in the front to some emissions device hooked up.. Its cranking and is getting fuel and spark.. and timing is dead on

[AnAgentOrange]

Plug those vacuum leaks

[cll2993]

Plug those vacuum leaks

will it completely not start at all?

[AnAgentOrange]

That's a lot of unmetered air it's receiving from that booster line. Definitely could be. But can't go further without fixing what we know to be wrong

[cll2993]

where should the distributor marks be pointing?

[Esevw]

where should the distributor marks be pointing?

To piston #1, farthest left when your looking at the motor.

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[cll2993]

To piston #1, farthest left when your looking at the motor.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk

ok I think that may be my problem I have it and the rotor pointing towards #4/ transmission

[cll2993]

I got the motor to start last week and it would idle (poorly) and die after about 20 secs. Now after sitting for a week it wont do anything.. but when i spray starter fluid it acts like it wants to but doesnt. whats going on?? i have all the vac leaks plugged now

[ps2375]

With #1 cylinder @ TDC, the rotor in the dizzy should be pointed at about 1 o'clock and that should correspond to the mark on the dizzy body. And the mark on the cam sprocket should be level with the VC gasket surface.

Check that first.

[cll2993]

the cam mark lines up and so does the dizzy

[ps2375]

And cylinder 1 is at TDC, meaning the FW mark lines up also? Do you have the firing order correct and the rotation of the dizzy as CW?

[cll2993]

1342. crank is tdc also

[ps2375]

compression?

[cll2993]

I'm not sure what it is.. I'll get a tester and check it within a couple days

[ps2375]

the cam mark lines up and so does the dizzy

Which cam mark, the one on the inside or the outside? I'd have to go look in my Bently Manual to be sure which one it needs to be.

[AnAgentOrange]

Which cam mark, the one on the inside or the outside? I'd have to go look in my Bently Manual to be sure which one it needs to be.

It's the inward facing mark. Ask how I know, lol

[cll2993]

It's the one on the inside

[Guidofester]

Yes. The timing mark on the cam pulley is towards the cylinder head. The other mark is used when the pulley is installed on the intermediate shaft. The cam and the intermediate shaft use the same pulley.

Some times when I'm trying to get a car to start that refuses to start I will adjust the distributor while cranking the car over to see if it will make an attempt to fire up.

Keep us posted.

[cll2993]

The compression is 160 170 160 150... So I have spark compression gas and air.. So I think tomorrow I'll fill up the tank will high octane gas and some water treatment stuff.. The car sat for 2 years then I got it got it running but it was knocking do I rebuilt it and since then I've put a gallon of gas in it and it idled a for a little while on that.. Could it be a gas issue maybe?

[threecaster]

I'm guessing we're talking MKII DigifontII here...

If you have:

Cam Sproket Inside Mark level with the top of the head
Intermediate Sproket outside dot lined up with Main Pulley Notch (+/- 1/2 tooth)
Installed: Main Pulley, Tensioner, Timing Belt, Dist. Squid Assy (1, 3, 4, 2) {CW rotation} Air Box (with MAF) All Sensor connections, All Vacuume lines, and Idle stablizer, and PCV
(NOTE: alternator, air con, water pump and power steering belts are optional for short testing runs)
Distributor installed with connector towards your right hand, when facing the vehicle.

Neutral Safety or Clutch Interlock switches

Proper amount of Motor Oil with pressure sensors connected.

A GOOD WELL CHARGED BATTERY

Make sure the vacuume to the Fuel Pressure Regulator is as short to the throttle body as practical. Sometimes vac lines get stopped uo.

Ensure sparkplug wires (including the coil) are in good condition, firmly seated and routed away from ground sources.

Check your Idle Adjustment Screw O-ring

Check all Electrical Grounds and Bonding Straps are installed, all other connections are clean and firmly seated (especially CPU, can be rather fussy...).

If she has sat up a while, make sure birds are not living in the exhaust pipe, or bees in the fuel lines.

NOW

if you have all of that, and you have new clean gas, air and spark, and still all cranky and no starty...

pull the blue coolant sensor connector off and give her a crank.

If she starts and runs, run her above 3000 rpms three times and it should reset the CPU.
At least I think it's three, maybe five. My buddy said he thought it was 3200 for five times...

For best results, consult Bentley, or the internets.

If it runs with it off, and dies when you plug it back in, then you maybe have a bad sensor somewhere.

If still no fire then consult on how to check MAF, Hall Effect, Throttle Switches, both Coolant sensors (sometimes three) and Coil triggering.

If all else fails, be patient. Avoid any urges for "exploratory surgery", but specific inspections or tests may be required.

Good Luck.

Your mileage may vary.

EDIT: I think Bentley says something that the compression for all of the cylinders has to be within a certain range. I did not read it closely at the time, but 20 psi maybe a lot of difference.
Any experienced gearheads care to comment? (how about head bolt tightness?)

[JettaKid90]

EDIT: I think Bentley says something that the compression for all of the cylinders has to be within a certain range. I did not read it closely at the time, but 20 psi maybe a lot of difference.
Any experienced gearheads care to comment? (how about head bolt tightness?)

1.8 litre:
New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 13 bar (145 to 188)
Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5 bar (108 psi)
Maximum permissible difference between any two cylinders . . . . 3.0 bar (43 psi)


Cylinder head bolts (engine cold):
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 ft lbs
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 ft lbs
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 1/2 turn (180°)

[cll2993]

Now my fuel pump relay is clicking rapidly and won't stop the fuel pump won't kick on or anything.. I put another one on it and the same thing

[JettaKid90]

From what your saying, there might be a short to ground in the wire from the relay to the pump itself cousing that affect. A diagram and a nice DMM will do the job.

[cll2993]

I figure there's probably a short in 12v or ground