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Thread: Readiness issues again! Ugh

  1. Member expated's Avatar
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    04-29-2012 11:40 PM #1
    Status: 96 Jetta GLX VR6 Mileage 151K

    Failure: Readiness monitors incomplete

    Readiness Codes:Complete: Misfire, Fuel and Comp.
    Incomplete: Catlyst, Evap,Sec Air, O2 Snsr and O2 Htr.

    Verified and replaced the following: Replaced dead Secondary Air Pump and dead solenoid. Kombi valve was replaced last year but verified functionality while replacing pump and solenoid.

    Car has been driven 300 miles since the replacements. Last year when the Kombi valve was replaced it look almost 550 miles for the Readiness to set. THAT SEEMS LIKE A LOT OF MILES! Could a lazy upstream O2 prolong readiness? The current O2’s are original.

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    04-30-2012 12:30 AM #2
    Quote Originally Posted by expated View Post
    Status: 96 Jetta GLX VR6 Mileage 151K

    Failure: Readiness monitors incomplete

    Readiness Codes:Complete: Misfire, Fuel and Comp.
    Incomplete: Catlyst, Evap,Sec Air, O2 Snsr and O2 Htr.

    Verified and replaced the following: Replaced dead Secondary Air Pump and dead solenoid. Kombi valve was replaced last year but verified functionality while replacing pump and solenoid.

    Car has been driven 300 miles since the replacements. Last year when the Kombi valve was replaced it look almost 550 miles for the Readiness to set. THAT SEEMS LIKE A LOT OF MILES! Could a lazy upstream O2 prolong readiness? The current O2’s are original.

    The O2 Heater Test must complete before the O2 Sensor Test will complete, which must be completed before the Cat Test will complete. I don't know about the SAI Test, since I've never had a car with SAI. If the O2 Heater power supply line is broken, or the O2 Heater (part of each O2 sensor) fails, the O2 Heater, O2 Sensor, and Cat Tests will never complete.

    The O2 Heater Test will complete in one drive cycle if the O2 Heater is good. The O2 Sensor and Cat Tests take several drive cylces to complete (after the O2 Heater Tests completes).

    It's not just the number of miles you driven since the ECU was reset and the Map erased, it takes miles driven at specific speeds, and the engine running for a specific minimum time period and coming up to a minimum temperature for a drive cycle to count. If you disconnect the battery or use a OBDII scanner to erase the Map, then took the car for a drive, and went 1000 miles steady speed on the freeway (stopping only when necessary for gas, and only as long as it took to fill the gas tank) and not letting the engine coolant temperature to drop to cold), only one drive cycle would be recorded, and the Readiness Tests would not be completed.

  3. Member GTIRACER2.0t's Avatar
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    04-30-2012 03:10 AM #3
    Quote Originally Posted by germancarnut51 View Post
    The O2 Heater Test must complete before the O2 Sensor Test will complete, which must be completed before the Cat Test will complete. I don't know about the SAI Test, since I've never had a car with SAI. If the O2 Heater power supply line is broken, or the O2 Heater (part of each O2 sensor) fails, the O2 Heater, O2 Sensor, and Cat Tests will never complete.

    The O2 Heater Test will complete in one drive cycle if the O2 Heater is good. The O2 Sensor and Cat Tests take several drive cylces to complete (after the O2 Heater Tests completes).

    It's not just the number of miles you driven since the ECU was reset and the Map erased, it takes miles driven at specific speeds, and the engine running for a specific minimum time period and coming up to a minimum temperature for a drive cycle to count. If you disconnect the battery or use a OBDII scanner to erase the Map, then took the car for a drive, and went 1000 miles steady speed on the freeway (stopping only when necessary for gas, and only as long as it took to fill the gas tank) and not letting the engine coolant temperature to drop to cold), only one drive cycle would be recorded, and the Readiness Tests would not be completed.

    Thata good to know as Im experiencing the same thing. Thanks

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    04-30-2012 06:16 AM #4
    Have a look here, the ODB2 drive cycle is explained in one of the first chapters:

    http://www1.snapon.com/Files/Diagnos...CodeCharts.pdf

    There is also a similar writeup here:

    http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2815417

    After I reset my codes, EVAP wouldn't set readiness for 3-4 days despite driving what I thought was the drive cycle. I read somewhere that the test would only run if you have between 1/4 and 3/4 tank of gas, so sure enough I filled up a bit, ran it on the highway, and the test passed. There must be some small condition not being met that's preventing it from running. Good luck!

  5. Member expated's Avatar
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    04-30-2012 06:35 AM #5
    Germancarnut51, as always thank you for your thoughts! My plan is to check O2 heater circuit this morning. This part of readiness seems pretty straight forward I'm just surprised that if there is a problem with that O2 heater circuit why doesn't it throw a code?

  6. Member expated's Avatar
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    04-30-2012 06:36 AM #6
    Thanks Cyan de. I'm very familiar with this crazy drive cycle but thanks!


    Quote Originally Posted by cyan|de View Post
    Have a look here, the ODB2 drive cycle is explained in one of the first chapters:

    http://www1.snapon.com/Files/Diagnos...CodeCharts.pdf

    There is also a similar writeup here:

    http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2815417

    After I reset my codes, EVAP wouldn't set readiness for 3-4 days despite driving what I thought was the drive cycle. I read somewhere that the test would only run if you have between 1/4 and 3/4 tank of gas, so sure enough I filled up a bit, ran it on the highway, and the test passed. There must be some small condition not being met that's preventing it from running. Good luck!

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    04-30-2012 12:47 PM #7
    Quote Originally Posted by expated View Post
    Germancarnut51, as always thank you for your thoughts! My plan is to check O2 heater circuit this morning. This part of readiness seems pretty straight forward I'm just surprised that if there is a problem with that O2 heater circuit why doesn't it throw a code?
    Can't throw codes until Readiness Tests are completed.

  8. Member expated's Avatar
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    04-30-2012 02:26 PM #8
    Hey Germancarnut51, Okay so regarding the O2 Heater (pins 1 and 2 of the harness) when the engine is on shouldn't I see Battery across these pins constantly? I’m checking the right connector on the bracket located at the rear of the engine on the passenger side. Initially for the first minute I have battery then after that the voltage is jumping all over the place from 0 all the way to 8 volts. I haven’t removed the connector from the harness yet to see if this is a function of O2 itself. What do you think?

  9. Member expated's Avatar
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    05-02-2012 11:50 PM #9
    Replaced UPSTREAM O2 today and then ran car for about 80 miles. Nothing yet but the s.ame lack of Readiness. Starting to wonder if it will ever clear........Appointment tomorrow with a man with a VAG

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    05-03-2012 01:14 AM #10
    Quote Originally Posted by expated View Post
    Hey Germancarnut51, Okay so regarding the O2 Heater (pins 1 and 2 of the harness) when the engine is on shouldn't I see Battery across these pins constantly? I’m checking the right connector on the bracket located at the rear of the engine on the passenger side. Initially for the first minute I have battery then after that the voltage is jumping all over the place from 0 all the way to 8 volts. I haven’t removed the connector from the harness yet to see if this is a function of O2 itself. What do you think?
    The voltage supply should be constant and stable, since the same line supplies the ECU.

    You could have a bad connection, or a bad O2 sensor, or a bad ECU.

  11. Member expated's Avatar
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    05-03-2012 02:31 PM #11
    You could have a bad connection, or a bad O2 sensor, or a bad ECU.[/QUOTE]

    Well I'm not buying a bad O2 with the same problem re-occurring.
    But where is the voltage being supplied from? The ECU or a relay on the relay/fuse box?
    What is puzzling is that I don’t have Heater Relay (Relay Position 13 per the Bentley Manual) so I’m going to assume that the voltage is supplied by Relay Position 12 Fuel pump relay or the ECU. Bentley manual is nothing but a good paper weight at this point in time. Here’s a pic of my fuse relay box. I’m going to grab the meter and due a little checking…

    Last edited by expated; 05-03-2012 at 03:28 PM.

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