1. dont do the neuspeed thing. i had it... it suks.
get the hpa or the 034 core. its a complete solution.
why do you think that the UM mani isnt "noob friendly"?
the process to install either mani is the same.
#1
Hi All,
I currently own a completely stock 2006 Jetta 2.5L manual with 57K miles which is my daily driver. I do a lot of driving, did about 17K last year so I wouldn't want any of the mods to affect the reliability of my car. As I spend at least 2 hours a day in my car it great if it could have a little more umpfff. I plan on installing the majority of the mods myself even though I have little to no experience in this matter.
Based on this forum (thank you everyone in VW Vortex for making it such a great community), here are the mods I'm planning in the order of installation.
1. Neuspeed Engine Torque Arm Insert REV.2 - $39.95 + Silicone Spray $5 - thoughts? different brand? engine vibrations? Is it safe without a aftermarket pendulum mount?
http://www.neuspeed.com/91/11/0/1319...sert-rev2.html
2. Neuspeed P-Flo Intake - $299.95 - looking for a good fit with the C2 or even UM SRI, for what I've read this is it, please advise. I wouldn't want to have excessive noise and I'm not sure if this produces a good amount of cabin noise.
http://www.neuspeed.com/91/11/0/1532...ntake-kit.html
3. C2 SRI - 999.99 - Seems like a good bolt on solution, considering UM but it seems like even though with UM SRI + Tune might product a bit more HP it's not as noob friendly. Still not sure if I need a catch can or not. Haven't really seen any stock vs SRI dynos, I've only seen after, please link if you have that info. Interested how much low range HP/TQ would I get vs stock. I would follow NLS's DYI, looks like a challenge and the DIY doesn't give as much detail as I would like. Might need professional installation with this unless there's someone in the NYC area that's willing to meet up for some beer and help me out.
4. C2 SRI Tune 2 $299- If I DYI I would probably send out the ECU, do you think driving to the C2 dealer with the SRI installed and getting the reprogram or the other way around would be ok?
5. I'm completely out of ideas in terms of exhaust & possible exhaust headers. I'm looking for a street drivable solution without waking up the neighbors or introducing too much drone. Please advise.
Any other ideas? So far without any exhaust mods it would come out to about $1700.
With 150HP stock, how much HP/TQ estimated am I looking at without touching the exhaust so far?
Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated and I know the majority of these topics have been discussed already but the information is all over the place and its hard for me to make an informed decision based on them.
Thanks.
#2
1. dont do the neuspeed thing. i had it... it suks.
get the hpa or the 034 core. its a complete solution.
why do you think that the UM mani isnt "noob friendly"?
the process to install either mani is the same.
#3
1- Agree with thygreyt - go for the whole core
2- P-flo is on sale right now for $200/$220 at NAM - http://www.namotorsports.net/Neuspee...ber=NS65.10.99 - Also there is one in classifieds right now i saw for under $200.
3 + 4 - My C2 is in the mail, will answer all those questions when i get it and install itand im on long island, so i could maybe help you out. I'm personally driving out to NLS for the tune because it's an excuse to drive HOME with the tune
, and i wanna meet the NLS guys.
5 - I just installed the USP downpipe w/cat onto my otherwise stock exhaust.. nice bump in power, not alot of bump in noise.. liking it so far!
Misc - I just put in the BFI motor & tranny mounts.. they're not broken in yet but OMG, talk about a difference. Right now there is alot more vibration (hope that goes away) but the crispness and feel are amazing.
'08 Rabbit- P-Flo, Torque Insert, C2 SRI+Tune, USP DP w/HF Cat, Lightweight Flywheel, BFI Engine&Trans Stage 1 Mounts
#4
Doesn't the UM mani displace where the intake goes which might require some further mods? Is it the same setup with the VC vent and down draft tube as C2 without getting the catch can which is quite expensive. It is also 300$ more but I'm still considering UM. Any links to HPA and 034 Core Intake? I'm assuming the HPA is the following http://www.hpamotorsport.com/cai.htm but can't seem to find 034.
#5
Ok, maybe I misunderstood thegreyt and Zaytri, you meant you don't like the torque insert or the CAI?
Zaytri did you get this one? http://uspmotorsports.com/product_in...roducts_id=364 I would get the one with the cat if anything to avoid touching it every year.
Last edited by twotech; 05-01-2012 at 12:24 AM.
#7
Ok, makes sense, I guess the mani install would go along with the filter without the intake. This is just a straight up filter isn't it? And if yes what filter is it? Any drawbacks of doing it this way? Will the filter fit with the battery in its original spot?
Last edited by twotech; 05-01-2012 at 12:40 AM.
#8
Yeah, we mean the torque insert... the p-flo is fine, that's what i have
Link to HPA
Link to 034
There is a group buy going on for the 034 core over on the MKV forum.
And that is the test pipe - do a search on here, USP has a thread where they were offering a discount on the test pipe with and w/o cat, dunno if the discount is still available![]()
'08 Rabbit- P-Flo, Torque Insert, C2 SRI+Tune, USP DP w/HF Cat, Lightweight Flywheel, BFI Engine&Trans Stage 1 Mounts
#10
#11
#12
I've looked around on the web an can't seem to find a video of a USP test-pipe with a stock exhaust. Care to post a video of the sound your car is making now?5 - I just installed the USP downpipe w/cat onto my otherwise stock exhaust.. nice bump in power, not alot of bump in noise.. liking it so far!
Thank you for the clarification and links. HPA at 139$Yeah, we mean the torque insert... the p-flo is fine, that's what i have
Link to HPA
Link to 034
There is a group buy going on for the 034 core over on the MKV forum.is excessive but 034 is doable thank you for the recommendations. Neuspeed out 034 in.
True didn't think of this at first. Wouldn't want any CEL's, to me a CEL and engine sound are good indicator of something going wrong. This is my daily driver after all. I do have VAG-COM to check up on anything that comes up.What will the OP do with his MAF sensor in this scenario?
This is the first time I'm seeing these as well, the 034 looks promising but seems to me of lesser quality than the HPA.How is this the first time I have seen those mounts?
#13
#14
While, I'm doing all this I'll probably going to need some tools aswell. I have basic set of tools but I know I've had trouble with VW's before when doing some work on my brother's car. Any recommendations on a complete set so that I don't have to worry about tight spaces etc.
#15
i suggest you should invest in a set of some triple squares. they come in handy when working on vag vehicles in general.
#16
This is the triple square set i have - They're found all over the place on the car and these make your life simple.
Link
Breaker bar is good to have if you don't already have one.. My torque wrench has already paid for itself, and a nice set of tools of your choice.. im a craftsman guy personally.![]()
'08 Rabbit- P-Flo, Torque Insert, C2 SRI+Tune, USP DP w/HF Cat, Lightweight Flywheel, BFI Engine&Trans Stage 1 Mounts
#17
Alright, to answer most of your questions here we go.
1. HEP mani is more expensive and would require modifying a short ram intake to fit or making a custom CAI. You cant just put a filter on the end like Fred did because he has a newer engine which is MAFless. You have an 06 like me so your MAF needs to stay.
2. Powerwise without an exhaust should be around 210-215 hp at the crank, roughly 185-190 at the wheels. Just a rough estimate, dont quote me on that. If you wanna see a dyno of my engine with just the mani installed on stock software and the after with the UM software to see the difference, check my link to my photobucket. I have a pic of the dynograph there.
3. 034 dogbone core is a cheaper option but also will make the dogbone much more solid and transfer a decent amount of vibration into the cabin. HPA is deffinately better made but is only one half of the core, you get both halves with the 034 and both are solid rubber inside. That ones up to you.
4. For exhaust, seems like youre not looking for anything too loud but want alittle more performance. Id say get the USP testpipe and just remove one of your suitcase mufflers. It will give you some power and not be too loud to bother anyone. Should give it a nice subtle growl still.
5. As for tools, deffinately get some triple squares like others suggested. Most importantly tho, if you ever think your gonna be doin your rear brakes yourself, go here http://www.metalnerd.com/cat05.htm and buy the 14mm triplesquare. Youll need it. I also got myself a Schwaben caliper retractor set to push in the piston while doing the brakes. Works on many other VWs too.
Last edited by tay272; 05-01-2012 at 07:23 AM.
http://s529.photobucket.com/albums/d...abbit%20build/
2006 Sage Green Rabbit 5spd| UM SRI manifold | UM 93 SRI tune | NLS Cai | Custom Eurojet exhaust | USP testpipe | ECS lightweight crank pulley | BSH motor/trans mounts |034 Dogbone core| NLS SS w/42DD bushings | GTI brake swap w/SS lines | Koni yellows w/H&R race springs | GTI rear sway |
#18
We have TONS of SRI's on the shelf waiting for new owners
Glad to see you are going with our manifold and tune! If you have any questions whatsoever or want more information about any of our products, don't hesitate to give me a shout at 502-379-7082 or email me at the address in my signature.
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C2Motorsports.com
For all of your forced induction and software needs!
Bennett@C2Motorsports.com
502.895.3660
#19
Some Info for you:
On software only with the stock intake manifold we can see the high torque in the midrange
created by the longer runners of the oem part.
When we change to the SRI, midrange 'peakiness' is lost, and high rpm torque is recovered (above 5000rpm). This is the goal of the SRI, to recover high rpm torque.
Chart #1 is stock car compared to UM software on a stock car. (stock intake manifold both charts) Note: the stock baselines in chart #1 and chart #2 are the same data.
Chart #2 is Full stock compared to UM SRI with UM software.
Chart #3 is a software comparison: notice the mid-range dip in torque that can occur if you do not choose proper software for use with an SRI. (Blue line is UM software)
I hope this information helps you (and others) considering an SRI for their 2.5L cars.
-Jeffrey Atwood
Last edited by Fred@UnitedMotorsport; 05-01-2012 at 09:28 AM.
UNITED Motorsport
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#20
Thank you for the great info everyone.
I know this has been discussed in detail already but I do see that C2's HP claims now say that they are "dyno proven", care to post the dyno's or does this still refer to C2/UM & UM/C2 combos? I still can't seem to find them. I don't mean to bring up that whole discussion again, if the dynos are still not available I'll have to live with it.
Thank you for the UM dyno's and explanation Jeffrey. Care to share who's software was the red line in a post or PM?
Is anyone running UM SRI with a unmodified intake or one that required almost no mod (cutting the silicone tube a bit etc.) if so which intake did you use?
Is there a DIY for a UM SRI, can't seem to find one? I realize that C2 and UM SRI install would be similar, what differences can be encountered besides the intake placement? I know they injectors have to be rotated.
NLS, if you are reading this, any chance you could send me a PM with the cost and approximate time needed for a pro SRI + software install if I did decide to make it down to PA? Thanks
Questions, questions, too many questionsAgain, all you help is greatly appreciated.
Last edited by twotech; 05-01-2012 at 10:17 AM.
#21
1. don't go with the neuspeed torque arm insert. people have pointed out that these inserts eventually break apart, and you'll just end up spending more $ in the long run once this happens. 034 has a group buy going on and it's super cheap to get their puck...around $45 in comparison to HPA's $180 puck.
2. neuspeed pflo is a great product, go to namotorsports.net and get it for $220.
3. i'm not going to chime in on the C2 vs UM SRI discussion, but why is C2 considered more noob friendly?
5. like someone else said before, your best bet is to just cut out the middle suitcase muffler and the car will sound great under throttle with no drone and it won't be too loud overall.
i'd also certainly recommend looking into the BFI tranny mount insert and the BFI motor mount. Aside from tuning, in my opinion these are the best upgrades i've done. the car is a blast to drive now...
Last edited by LampyB; 05-01-2012 at 10:30 AM.
#22
almost forgot...another great mod to do for only $35 are the 42DD metal shifter bushings. they make a big difference tightening up the slop in the shifter. you can combine the 42DD bushings with another cheap set of bushings from Verdict Motorsport together and it's great.
42DD Shifter Bushings - $35 ('06 VW Jetta 2.5l Manual)
Verdict Shift Bracket Bushings - $25
#23
x2 on the bushings, makes a world of difference. Also think about getting new mounts all around or mount inserts like Lampy said. Your engine will rock like a mother if you dont tighten things up with the SRI on there.
http://s529.photobucket.com/albums/d...abbit%20build/
2006 Sage Green Rabbit 5spd| UM SRI manifold | UM 93 SRI tune | NLS Cai | Custom Eurojet exhaust | USP testpipe | ECS lightweight crank pulley | BSH motor/trans mounts |034 Dogbone core| NLS SS w/42DD bushings | GTI brake swap w/SS lines | Koni yellows w/H&R race springs | GTI rear sway |
#24
For the torque arm insert, do like Lampy said. If you don't want too much vibrations, go with the street version of the 034 mount and only install the lower part. its easy to install that way. Keep the other one for backup or sell it.
much cheaper than getting the HPA even though its a really nice piece. I find it too expensive.