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    Thread: '91 G60 Rado Build

    1. Member Slider388's Avatar
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      1992 Corrado SLC, 1973 International Scout II
      05-01-2012 01:36 AM #1
      Hey guys,
      long time lurker me finally bit the bullet on a 1991 Red Corrado G60 and decided to join vortex.
      I bought WVWDB4500MK009450 with 138,420 miles on the odo and I intend to perform a full restoration. Once that's done, I get to start tweaking and building

      The body's in pretty good shape, no rust in the wheel wells, a few scrapes on the body, the jack points are a bit jacked up (ha). There's no clear from the B pillar back, and a few small spots where corrosion is starting.
      The engine's had a new head gasket, timing belt, and waterpump at 120k, but I'm worried about the g-lader. I read the boost on the MFA before I bought it and it read 550 at idle, and 1520 at almost top 3rd gear, which is about 7.5 psi. I'm gonna guess it's been rebuilt at least once, otherwise the g-lader would probably be dead by now. A BBM rebuild kit is one of the first things I'm getting, I'm just scared that the billet will be damaged because of the high miles. Could anyone give me their opinion on this?
      Previous owner also put on adjustable FK street coilovers which I just raised 3/4" because he didn't have it lowered, he had it slammed. Wheels rubbing when you turn slammed.
      Interior is solid except for a chunk of foam missing from the driver seat.
      Also, I got 4 bbm rz 4x100 wheels with it, with two tires down to the steel and the other two might as well be racing slicks I also got four rusty steelies with two bad tires, two okay.

      Anyways, pics! I took most of these before I bought it and I'll obviously add as I work.






      Here she is after the drive home:


      Something tells me that the rear pass. rotor cover was stock it was so rusted it fell off on its own.


      Here's what I know has been replaced so far:
      -Suspension with adjustable FK street coilovers 12k ago
      -Waterpump/Timing belt/Head Gasket 18k ago
      -CV joints and driver side drive axle
      -Rear Rotors
      -Brake pads still have 50% left
      -2 New brake lines
      -All new motor mounts 10k ago
      -New starter 10k ago

      Here's my to-do list for the next few weeks/months (so far):

      -Get a Bentley - Ordered
      -Needs lifted approx 3/4" - Completed
      -Driver's door handle needs new striker - Ordered
      -Master brake cyl R&R - Ordered
      -G-Lader rebuild
      -Upgraded G-Lader Oil Line
      -Polish BBS's, replace stolen center cap
      -New tires (any recommendations? I'm considering getting some yokohama s drives)
      -E-brake cables R&R - Ordered
      -Antenna R&R
      -Speakers need wired up and radio needs replaced
      -Ashtray needs replaced
      -Exhaust has leak (Probably just gonna go with a techtonics catback)
      -Pass. Automatic seatbelt needs rebuilt
      -Coolant/ Oil flush, clean k&n air filter
      -Auto seatbelt spools need cleaned and lubed
      -Hood needs shocks or prop
      -Clean up vacuum lines
      -Paint! I dunno whether to stick with red or not. I have some time to decide though.

      She definitely needs some love, but hey, the sunroof doesn't leak and it even works!
      Let me know what you guys think!

    2. Member RedYellowWhite's Avatar
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      '90 Corrado 1.8 8V G60 (previously was 1.8 16V KR), '80 MK1 Golf GTI 1.6 8V EG aka "Heron"
      05-01-2012 03:25 AM #2
      Welcome
      Definately looks like it needs a lot of love I never understood why people leave Corrados so neglected


      -oe sunroofs (metal) don't tend to leak anyway
      -maybe consider euro-spec seatbelt conversion rather than trying to rebuilt to us-spec ones

      Good luck
      Quote Originally Posted by dogger View Post
      ... (Corrado) might be the greatest collection of bad VW ideas ever put into one car.
      My Corrado (sort of) build thread / On Database
      My MK1 build thread
      SpoonFedTuning

    3. Member
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      93 CORRADO VRT
      05-01-2012 12:56 PM #3
      Looks like it has potental, love the stock bbs wheels on it..
      GOT BOOST---

    4. Member vdubCorrado's Avatar
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      05-01-2012 01:14 PM #4
      i wouldn't assume the charger has been rebuilt because of the milage. i have had higher milage chargers still boosting that haven't been rebuilt. now by boosting i mean not fully. even found some spaghetti (Apex strips) in the silencer box on a boosting charger...

      not a bad start, keep it red though or otherwise a color change will not be worth your money and time cause you'll need to do all the jams and the engine bay. no one seems to understand how much paint work is when they jump into a color change.

      i also have a functioning set of auto belts if you end up needing to replace the driver side. good luck

    5. Member vwflygti's Avatar
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      05-01-2012 02:00 PM #5
      Just curious, what did you end up paying for the car?
      CHECK OUT MY BUILDS AT WWW.BUILDMYS4.COM
      2000 AUDI S4 RS6/54MM BILLET WHEELS
      1990 VW CORRADO ABA/16VT PRECISION 5857 .63 A/RCORRADO BUILD THREAD

    6. Member Slider388's Avatar
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      05-02-2012 12:11 AM #6
      Thanks for the feedback, I love the stock bbs wheels too!!

      Quote Originally Posted by RedYellowWhite View Post
      I never understood why people leave Corrados so neglected :
      Me either. The guy I bought it off really loved the car, but he did some retarded stuff. Lowered it too far, had 3 different size tires on the bbs', never once got it aligned. Stuff like that. I don't see how you could love a car and not want to fix everything correctly.

      Thanks for the tips on the chargers and paint. I'll crack the g-lader open in the next few weeks and hope for the best!

      I paid 1900$ for it, I feel that was a pretty fair price for what I got. Opinions?

      Right now I'm having some issues with the rear pass. rotor/hub. The wheel I took off was stuck on and I had to hit the tire with a sledge to break it free. Now I can't fit either steelies or bbs wheels back on. I can put them on the hub and thread all the bolts, I just can't get the wheel to seat properly on the hub, even though the mating surfaces are clean. Previous owner never said he had an issue with this and the last time he had the wheels off was 3 months ago. Tomorrow I'll sand down the center of the hub a bit and hopefully that's all it takes.

    7. Semi-n00b passthefetus's Avatar
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      05-02-2012 02:58 AM #7
      damn looks like fun

    8. Member 6BangSneezer's Avatar
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      05-02-2012 07:42 AM #8
      Congrats! But yes as RYW mentioned go for a set of eurobelts. Not cheap, but a solid improvement on the car

    9. Member vwflygti's Avatar
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      05-02-2012 09:15 AM #9
      I would say that's fair. I got mine with a nuked motor for $1200. Clean body and interior though....
      CHECK OUT MY BUILDS AT WWW.BUILDMYS4.COM
      2000 AUDI S4 RS6/54MM BILLET WHEELS
      1990 VW CORRADO ABA/16VT PRECISION 5857 .63 A/RCORRADO BUILD THREAD

    10. Member RedYellowWhite's Avatar
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      05-02-2012 09:39 AM #10
      I think you paid too much $$$ for it, just my opinion tho
      Quote Originally Posted by dogger View Post
      ... (Corrado) might be the greatest collection of bad VW ideas ever put into one car.
      My Corrado (sort of) build thread / On Database
      My MK1 build thread
      SpoonFedTuning

    11. Member vwflygti's Avatar
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      05-02-2012 10:46 AM #11
      Quote Originally Posted by RedYellowWhite View Post
      I think you paid too much $$$ for it, just my opinion tho
      Thats US dollars....
      CHECK OUT MY BUILDS AT WWW.BUILDMYS4.COM
      2000 AUDI S4 RS6/54MM BILLET WHEELS
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    12. Member RedYellowWhite's Avatar
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      05-02-2012 11:42 AM #12
      Quote Originally Posted by vwflygti View Post
      Thats US dollars....
      I am aware of it
      Quote Originally Posted by dogger View Post
      ... (Corrado) might be the greatest collection of bad VW ideas ever put into one car.
      My Corrado (sort of) build thread / On Database
      My MK1 build thread
      SpoonFedTuning

    13. Member vwflygti's Avatar
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      05-02-2012 11:52 AM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by RedYellowWhite View Post
      I am aware of it
      CHECK OUT MY BUILDS AT WWW.BUILDMYS4.COM
      2000 AUDI S4 RS6/54MM BILLET WHEELS
      1990 VW CORRADO ABA/16VT PRECISION 5857 .63 A/RCORRADO BUILD THREAD

    14. Member Slider388's Avatar
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      05-02-2012 02:16 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by 6BangSneezer View Post
      Congrats! But yes as RYW mentioned go for a set of eurobelts. Not cheap, but a solid improvement on the car
      I'm undecided about this. I know that eurobelts would be a lot more convenient, and call me crazy but I kinda like the auto ones. Enough that I can't justify buying euro belts right now. Maybe if the driver side craps out too that will change things.

      And yeah, maybe I did pay a little too much, but I'm pretty happy with it so far.

    15. Member RedYellowWhite's Avatar
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      05-02-2012 03:01 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by Slider388 View Post
      ...And yeah, maybe I did pay a little too much, but I'm pretty happy with it so far.
      And at the end of the day, that's ^^ all that matters
      Quote Originally Posted by dogger View Post
      ... (Corrado) might be the greatest collection of bad VW ideas ever put into one car.
      My Corrado (sort of) build thread / On Database
      My MK1 build thread
      SpoonFedTuning

    16. Member Sr. Karmann's Avatar
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      91 Corrado 2.0l 16v on MS3X, Parked like Jurassic... 83 Cabby 1.8l 16v... 88 Powerplay XLT-185
      05-02-2012 09:15 PM #16
      Welcome, good year
      Quote Originally Posted by crazynorweegian View Post
      Good luck, might want to get vaccinated for "while-I-am-in-there" syndrome.
      tek-euro.com SpoonFedTuning

      my Corrado's specs on corrado-database / My Corrado Build Thread / My Cabby Build Thread / My Boat Build: 18' Powerplay w/5.7l V8

    17. Member Slider388's Avatar
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      05-14-2012 12:35 PM #17
      Wheel issue was fixed by lots of delicate sanding/filing.
      A few days ago I did a major cleanout cause the previous owner left this car dirty as ****.

      See what I mean? Granted, the tools are mine...but still. I pulled the seats and vacuumed everything out, and I cleaned all of the plastics and glass. I ran new e brake cables but they won't work until I get new guide tubes.

      Then I got started on my G lader rebuild.
      Started pulling parts and found how bad the serpentine belt is. Glad I caught that in time.


      My rado as of right now:


      Engine bay sans charger:


      Ready to split the case:


      Pop


      Pulling oil seals:


      Old bearings and seals


      I love gear pullers. They're just so badass.


      Here's the displacer:


      And here's the two hairline cracks I found on the intake side of the case:


      Everythings in pretty great shape except for those two hairline cracks. I'm tempted to ignore them, but I don't want them to chip away at 15000 rpm. I think I've sourced a used case so I'll probably just use that to be safe.

    18. Member Sr. Karmann's Avatar
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      91 Corrado 2.0l 16v on MS3X, Parked like Jurassic... 83 Cabby 1.8l 16v... 88 Powerplay XLT-185
      05-15-2012 12:10 PM #18
      Nice to see you digging into the charger
      Quote Originally Posted by crazynorweegian View Post
      Good luck, might want to get vaccinated for "while-I-am-in-there" syndrome.
      tek-euro.com SpoonFedTuning

      my Corrado's specs on corrado-database / My Corrado Build Thread / My Cabby Build Thread / My Boat Build: 18' Powerplay w/5.7l V8

    19. Member HavokRuels's Avatar
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      05-16-2012 08:33 AM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by 6BangSneezer View Post
      Congrats! But yes as RYW mentioned go for a set of eurobelts. Not cheap, but a solid improvement on the car
      agreed, just make sure you get a kit with the seat belt receptacles, they are a bitch to get separately and most sellers don't want to remove them from the seats.

      G-lader rebuild would be my top priority aside from typical maintianence. All new vac lines and make sure the line going to the digi is exactly 1 meter in length if you replace it. Power wash the engine bay (makes a world of difference when working on anything, damn g60 grease latent bays)

      Inspect all wiring for dry rot and cracking especially the ISV harness. Check all connections for looseness and clean contacts and re-tighten any female connections.

      Avoid engine fires by inspecting fuel system and inspect relay panel under dash for any relays that may have signs of arcing (burnt discololration).

      Lastly, you may fall victim of typical small electrical components going bad but read up on testing wires and practice. Get familiar!

      I think your gonna be ok
      Guru Motorsports / europeein

    20. Member Slider388's Avatar
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      06-06-2012 10:01 PM #20
      Thanks for the tips! I definitely need to get my engine bay cleaned, I've been thinking about bringing it to a detailer to have it steam cleaned. I'm not too worried about the electrical side of things as I work as an electronics tech.

      Its taken me a while to update as the full time job/full time school combo takes its usual toll on the financial and timely side of things, but here we go.

      Our story picks up with two hairline cracks in the G lader case. I found a new case from a vortex member and was pleasantly surprised when I got it. The case was bead blasted, the intake side had been hand ported to about 68mm and streamlined a little on the inside, and it was in pretty good shape.
      Here's the new and old:


      Everything ready to go together:


      I did find a hairline crack in this one too! But I'll just have to live with it. The crack hasn't gone all the way through and there's no risk of anything breaking off to fod out the compressor.


      Look at those beautiful cases with all new bearings and seals!


      Taking shape:


      And presto!


      Even got the timing right on the first try!


      I had to remove the bottom charger support in order to fit the reinforcement plate back on.


      Engine bay with new lader:


      And that's that! I changed the serpentine and v belt along the way as they were both in pretty bad shape. It got a new oil filter along with some mobil 1 full synthetic 15w50 for the summer.
      I ran the charger in for about 300 miles, today I broke 500 miles since charger rebuild. Unfortunately, the highest reading I've been able to get on the MAF is 1650, or about 9 PSI, not the stock 12 it should be.
      For now I'm going to assume that vacuum/boost leaks are to blame. Anyone know of some good places to check? I guess I'll probably have to take the bumper off to check down by the intercooler.

    21. Member HavokRuels's Avatar
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      06-06-2012 10:09 PM #21
      Bumper is easy. 2 bolts underside of each frame rail with 17mm heads, disconnect directional and fogs and a few screws that may be attached to it in the fender well.


      Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad
      Guru Motorsports / europeein

    22. Member Slider388's Avatar
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      06-06-2012 10:21 PM #22
      Got a few more parts today. Replaced some small stuff like the clutch pedal cover and the dipstick holder tube.

      The stock exhaust resonator was hurt pretty bad, it was leaking in 3 or 4 different places. All of the hangers had ripped off too, I had to safety wire the exhaust in place when I got the car. I had the resonator cut out and got straight pipe welded in from the cat all the way back to the fuller. I love the sound, its not too loud when idling and its quiet on the highway, but can make myself heard if I want. Here's a shot of it:


      I got a new fuel filter and man that old one was nasty. Definitely long overdue.


      Yum


      I decided to give the whole bracket a good sanding and painting, along with all new hardware:


      Also, the emblems were in pretty bad shape:


      I sanded them down, gave them a few good black basecoats, and let that dry. Then I saturated some paper towel sheets with silver paint, and I pressed the emblems into them until the silver had coated just right. Here's the finished product:


      Here's what the car looks like now: The emblems made quite a difference imo.




      Here's my immediate to do list:
      -Steam clean/power wash engine bay
      -Clean ISV
      -Still need new front tires
      -Still need E brake guide tubes
      -Need to put in new brake master along with fluid flush and bleeding.
      -I found that my pass. CV boot cracked all the way around and most of the grease is gone, probably cause the previous owner had it slammed. What a pain. I'm considering replacing the axle too as the other one's already been replaced, but it's not giving me the dreaded click click clicking so I'll probably decide once I have it apart.
      -Also, I raised the car another 3/4" of an inch and the ride is just horrible. I guess it's just the ****ty cheap shocks, or maybe the previous owner was running them too low. I guess I'll have to save up for some konis.

    23. Member Slider388's Avatar
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      06-06-2012 10:25 PM #23
      Quote Originally Posted by HavokRuels View Post
      Bumper is easy. 2 bolts underside of each frame rail with 17mm heads, disconnect directional and fogs and a few screws that may be attached to it in the fender well.
      Thanks man, I'll definitely do that soon. Soapy water method should work just fine for finding leaks?

    24. 06-07-2012 12:24 AM #24
      Doing a really killer job!

    25. Member Toffeerado's Avatar
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      06-07-2012 01:01 AM #25
      never get enough of these builds.
      Quote Originally Posted by Radvr6T View Post
      A true built car is one in which the owner alone has done its work intirely!
      Not had a shop build the motor,Not had a shop paint it ,Not had a upolster do the interior,Not just supplied money for work of any kind for the vehicle!
      According to this guy no one builds cars.

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