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Thread: APR stage 1 vs APR stage 2

  1. 05-01-2012 03:48 AM #1
    Both cars MK6 one of them is apr stage 1 with stage 1 apr intake.. the other is also MK6 apr stage 2 with stage 2 apr intake and apr turboback exhaust. The stage 1 is much faster .. How is that possible? They are both manual but shifting is not the problem .. What can be the problem is stage 1 really faster then stage 2? Really curious because to go stage 2 from stage 1 is almost 2000$ more and still be slower lol..

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    05-01-2012 06:07 AM #2
    Maybe the stage 2 is running in the "Stock" program? This is kinda crazy. After I got mine upgraded to Stage 2+ with the full down pipe and all I smoked a friend of mines Stage 1. Mine is a 4 Door and his was a 2 door as well (weight). Good luck with the issue ^.^
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    05-01-2012 09:07 AM #3
    Stage II should be faster, but it might be a driver mod issue.
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    05-01-2012 09:28 AM #4
    Maybe stage 2 guy is a horrible driver?

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    05-01-2012 09:31 AM #5
    1. Something is wrong with the stage 2 car.
    2. The cost to upgrade to stage 2 is a $190 downpipe and free software. I dont know where you are getting 2k
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    05-01-2012 09:36 AM #6
    Are you talking about "slower" in 1/4 mile? if so that might be due to wheel spin, and stage 1 might have gutted his interier while stage 2 was on his way home from Lowes and decided to stop at the strip.

    I am putting my money on the Clutch slipping on the stage 2 car.
    Last edited by GoLfUnV; 05-01-2012 at 10:09 AM.

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    05-01-2012 09:46 AM #7
    Quote Originally Posted by nick0188 View Post
    1. Something is wrong with the stage 2 car.
    2. The cost to upgrade to stage 2 is a $190 downpipe and free software. I dont know where you are getting 2k
    i think he means go stage II with all suporting mods, intake t/b exhuast, fmic, ect.. that can total up to 2k real quick if all you did to go stage I is get flashed

    not sure what your problem is without running logs on both cars to make sure that they are both operating properly, could be anything from driver issue's, to one car being in 93 mode and the other in stock or evev worse vallet
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  8. 05-01-2012 12:21 PM #8
    Quote Originally Posted by v-dubIV View Post
    i think he means go stage II with all suporting mods, intake t/b exhuast, fmic, ect.. that can total up to 2k real quick if all you did to go stage I is get flashed
    The only required supporting mod for stage II is a downpipe

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    05-01-2012 12:38 PM #9
    If moving from stage 1 to stage 2 is costing $2000, you're doing it wrong. Even worst case scenario: $700 for APR downpipe, $200 for installation of downpipe, $200 for a reflash, you're looking at $1100 total. More typical numbers are much lower.. mine: $500 for downpipe, $140 for installation, $0 for reflash = $640.

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    05-01-2012 12:46 PM #10
    $140 for DP, free upgrade, free install because I diy'd it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy Clarkson
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  11. Senior Member Aonarch's Avatar
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    05-01-2012 12:46 PM #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle_m View Post
    The only required supporting mod for stage II is a downpipe
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy Clarkson
    (On the Monaro) *licks hood Mmm. Love it. I love it! Someone in Australia had a picture of me and said, "Lets build that bloke a car!"
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    05-01-2012 01:00 PM #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Aonarch View Post
    $140 for DP, free upgrade, free install because I diy'd it.
    exactly what I did too. The raceland downpipe was 190 at the time, so it could have went down. Either way, thats all you need for stage 2.
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  13. Senior Member Aonarch's Avatar
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    05-01-2012 01:11 PM #13
    I run the stock cat-back and it is fine.

    The real restriction is the cat, they typically have about ~3 lbs of back pressure.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy Clarkson
    (On the Monaro) *licks hood Mmm. Love it. I love it! Someone in Australia had a picture of me and said, "Lets build that bloke a car!"
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  14. 05-01-2012 02:29 PM #14
    APR intake, BB Catted DP w/ stock cat back made 242 hp and 282 tq (at the wheels) which is right at APR's #'s minus the +7ph/tq of a TBE. Went from stage 1 to stage 2 and the car is NOT slower! Was kinda bummed thought cause I bought the car with a stage 1 (dealer didnt know it was) so got a warranty till 130K and the whole time I was like there is no way this car is stock! Easiest way to tel was 3rd gear pulls, never fell on its face after 5k rpms. Took it to apr and found out I only had to pay 150 vs 599

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    05-01-2012 04:26 PM #15
    The stage 2 car have a boost gauge? Should be at 17-18psi.
    My car is much faster than it was w/stage 2. My whp numbers match up exactly with APRs as well.

    I vote that it's running the wrong program
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    05-01-2012 04:35 PM #16
    You know how I'm sure I actually got reflashed to stage 2? Within a week my clutch started slipping.

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    05-01-2012 06:46 PM #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle_m View Post
    APR intake, BB Catted DP w/ stock cat back made 242 hp and 282 tq (at the wheels) which is right at APR's #'s minus the +7ph/tq of a TBE. Went from stage 1 to stage 2 and the car is NOT slower! Was kinda bummed thought cause I bought the car with a stage 1 (dealer didnt know it was) so got a warranty till 130K and the whole time I was like there is no way this car is stock! Easiest way to tel was 3rd gear pulls, never fell on its face after 5k rpms. Took it to apr and found out I only had to pay 150 vs 599

    Heh, nice, i make roughly the same numbers *without* a dp, can't wait to get my B&B soon.
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    05-01-2012 07:09 PM #18
    Quote Originally Posted by intoflatlines View Post
    You know how I'm sure I actually got reflashed to stage 2? Within a week my clutch started slipping.
    That's the way to do it
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  19. 05-01-2012 08:05 PM #19
    Just curious as to what people are paying for an apr stage 1 and what it included? Is it just a reflash or what? I called a local shop and they wanted $600 plus $150 in labor and plus tax. Seemed like way too much.

  20. 05-01-2012 08:24 PM #20
    Quote Originally Posted by l3it3r View Post
    The stage 2 car have a boost gauge? Should be at 17-18psi.
    My car is much faster than it was w/stage 2. My whp numbers match up exactly with APRs as well.

    I vote that it's running the wrong program
    Thats a great point because his car when he first bought it was faster but he does not know how to switch programs because he bought the car wth all the mods already installed. Is it possible for the car to go in stock mode by itself?

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    05-01-2012 09:08 PM #21
    Quote Originally Posted by 2012mk6gti View Post
    Thats a great point because his car when he first bought it was faster but he does not know how to switch programs because he bought the car wth all the mods already installed. Is it possible for the car to go in stock mode by itself?
    Buy's modded car, doesn't know what mods do...

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    05-01-2012 09:11 PM #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Squirrel Nuts View Post
    Maybe stage 2 guy is a horrible driver?
    this

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    05-01-2012 09:14 PM #23
    acceleration or top speed?
    dyno them both and give evidence. otherwise is physical (wheel slippage) or driver (wheel slippage)

  24. 05-01-2012 09:30 PM #24
    It is not the driver he was getting 10 psi instead of 16-17

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    05-01-2012 09:54 PM #25
    Quote Originally Posted by 2012mk6gti View Post
    It is not the driver he was getting 10 psi instead of 16-17
    boost leak? bad DV...

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    05-01-2012 10:04 PM #26
    Quote Originally Posted by jhnr View Post
    boost leak? bad DV...
    or stock program..

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    05-01-2012 10:20 PM #27
    Quote Originally Posted by 2012mk6gti View Post
    It is not the driver he was getting 10 psi instead of 16-17
    that is because clutch is slipping, and who ever had car before didn't want new owner to know this.

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    05-01-2012 10:36 PM #28
    Stock boost is 10psi peak. Even with a slipping clutch your boost will spike well beyond 10psi and then flutter a bit and go back up when the clutch grabs. Put it in 91/93 octane mode with the appropriate fuel and run them again.

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    05-01-2012 11:39 PM #29
    Quote Originally Posted by e30kawi View Post
    Just curious as to what people are paying for an apr stage 1 and what it included? Is it just a reflash or what? I called a local shop and they wanted $600 plus $150 in labor and plus tax. Seemed like way too much.
    Everyone pays $600 for the ecu. Labor varies between free and approx. $150 depending on the shop. I don't see many shops that do free labor though
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    05-02-2012 09:34 AM #30
    Does anyone know what the actual hp/tg differences between stage1 and stage2 are?

  31. Senior Member Aonarch's Avatar
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    05-02-2012 10:08 AM #31
    Quote Originally Posted by wasim12 View Post
    Everyone pays $600 for the ecu. Labor varies between free and approx. $150 depending on the shop. I don't see many shops that do free labor though
    You could just remove it yourself.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy Clarkson
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  32. Member dstackmasta27's Avatar
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    05-02-2012 10:30 AM #32
    Quote Originally Posted by wasim12 View Post
    Everyone pays $600 for the ecu. Labor varies between free and approx. $150 depending on the shop. I don't see many shops that do free labor though
    After install labor ($80), taxes, and miscellaneous fees for security screws/sealant/owner's book my total was $730 and some change out the door. It would be more if the APR dealer you visit has switched their pricing back to the normal prices.

    I personally would rather pay for the install (which is a reasonable amount of work) than have a shop try to cut corners to provide the quality of a "free" install.

    In the end it was the best $730 I've spent in a long while
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    05-02-2012 10:31 AM #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Aonarch View Post
    You could just remove it yourself.
    OR this
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  34. Senior Member Aonarch's Avatar
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    05-02-2012 10:51 AM #34
    Quote Originally Posted by dstackmasta27 View Post
    OR this
    APR has a easy DIY on their website.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy Clarkson
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    05-02-2012 01:19 PM #35
    Quote Originally Posted by wasim12 View Post
    Everyone pays $600 for the ecu. Labor varies between free and approx. $150 depending on the shop. I don't see many shops that do free labor though
    you could just make a trip to the APR headquarters like I did and labor will be free
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