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    Thread: convertible top rear cable

    1. Member
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      05-01-2012 08:02 PM #1
      so, i have a dumb question. apparently i made up my rear cable too short twice in a row. and i'm confused about the total length of the cable. i used brian's write-up, but i think my mistake is where you say 90 inches eye to eye center. about how long will the cable be from end to end after it's built? mine keeps ending up too short.

      also, will i be able to attach both ends of the cable and pull the cable in it's entirety down over the lip and the top cover to get the tightening process started? thanks.

    2. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      05-01-2012 09:06 PM #2
      Buy longer eye bolts
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      05-01-2012 09:08 PM #3
      such a simple solution
      dink and flicka

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      05-02-2012 02:00 PM #4
      Quote Originally Posted by briano1234 View Post
      Buy longer eye bolts
      the ones i have are as long as the space will allow. i guess i'll go buy more cable and recut again. so 90 inches from end of looped cable to end of looped cable should work?

    5. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      05-02-2012 03:01 PM #5
      Okay how about this. Make one Eye up on one side only.
      Feed it in the channel and around the top.
      Place a Ferrule on the cable then through the eye-bolt and the open side of the ferrule, pull it tight, and crimp.

      The total length of the cable is 94 inches if you use 2 inch eyebolts, then the new cable length is 90 to the inside of the eye. I know it is hard to explain, but if you connect it on one side, feed it around the top and the other side, then make the other eye, you can't get the wrong length...

      Did you connect the eyebolt to the cable then insert it, as if it is too short, remember you don't have tension on the cable as yet. And the old addage is if the first one was too short, make the new one a tad longer...
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      05-02-2012 03:48 PM #6
      Okay how about this. Make one Eye up on one side only.
      Feed it in the channel and around the top.
      Place a Ferrule on the cable then through the eye-bolt and the open side of the ferrule, pull it tight, and crimp.

      that's what i'm going to try next i guess. i can't believe i'm having this much difficulty measuring and cutting the damned cable.

    7. Member moonkey's Avatar
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      05-04-2012 12:17 PM #7
      http://www.toplessrabbit.com/forums/...21e5e03e398538

      Just in case you haven't seen this. Ill be using this guide when i get my roof redone in the next few weeks.

      Im planning on making my own cables as well.


    8. Member moonkey's Avatar
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      05-04-2012 12:19 PM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by stronglikebull View Post

      .....that's what i'm going to try next i guess. i can't believe i'm having this much difficulty measuring and cutting the damned cable.

      Given the state of my tin snips i was thinking about using a cutting wheel on my dremmel to make things tidy.

    9. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      05-04-2012 05:17 PM #9
      Quote Originally Posted by moonkey View Post
      http://www.toplessrabbit.com/forums/...21e5e03e398538

      Just in case you haven't seen this. Ill be using this guide when i get my roof redone in the next few weeks.

      Im planning on making my own cables as well.

      Nope never seen that one at all.
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

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    10. 05-04-2012 05:28 PM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by briano1234 View Post
      Nope never seen that one at all.
      Haha.

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      05-10-2012 10:42 AM #11
      Is the rear cable 1/8" diameter or 1/16"? I know the side ones are 1/16", but I cant see the back one with my top still on. Thanks

    12. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      05-10-2012 10:51 AM #12
      1/8 is what you want to use.
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
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      05-10-2012 11:16 AM #13
      Perfect! Thanks.

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      05-10-2012 05:50 PM #14
      is there any reason why you should not use a vinyl coated 1/8" cable instead of messing around with a bare cable and a piece of tubing?

    15. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      05-10-2012 07:24 PM #15
      No, you can use what you like.... Vinyl clad won't rust as easily.
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
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    16. Member iamdagerman's Avatar
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      05-11-2012 12:56 PM #16
      Quote Originally Posted by briano1234 View Post
      1/8 is what you want to use.
      I see how it is! you gave me the hardest time when I asked that

    17. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      05-11-2012 03:35 PM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by iamdagerman View Post
      I see how it is! you gave me the hardest time when I asked that
      I said 1/8 to your first time, and you kept up saying are you sure?
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
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      05-11-2012 06:15 PM #18
      C'mon B.....tell us truly. Is it really 1/8? Are you sure? You're not just pullin' our leg are you?

      DW

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      07-14-2013 10:38 PM #19
      Reviving an oldie but goodie, did anyone ever decide to make SS cabriolet top cable sets to sell?

      Finding stainless steel anything around here is not happening much, ebay shipping kills on a dozen items from a dozen sources...

      I suppose making them from galvanized only costa ~ $10 in total, assuming I can track down some small bore vinyl hose--- 1/4" is as small as anyone carries locally, looks like you need 3/16" for the side cables. SS brake line for the rear cable will be an ebay deal as well from Dallas.

      Also, went with 10-32 X 2" eyebolts, just a tiny bit smaller but available in SS at Lowes. YMMV.

    20. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      07-15-2013 01:12 AM #20
      EZOn tops makes a rear cable that I have just used and endorse. It is primo mucho betta than anything I have seen other than the factory originals.

      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

      Where are my grounds ?
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      07-22-2013 11:48 PM #21
      Cool, my original cable (or at least the one that's in there) appears like newish factory unit, i spun the nuts off with my fingers when taking the old vinyl top off.

      Have the top on and centered up etc, but no matter what I do the center/rear bit pops out flush when I try to put the top down... Doesn't pop out completely as the corners/sides are set, seems like i'm missing something. Like glue... Cable has some adjustment left, but seems pretty darn tight. New top is cloth.

      Another thing: I'm pretty sure you need to use steel ferrules when making these tension cables
      (will be making some up tomorrow for my own use, although I'm sure someplace sells them)

      The aluminum ferrules sold at Hodepot etc don't work...clamp well enough,

      The factory cables used: Steel ferrules, or in the case of the rear cable, the swaged item was still steel.
      (referring to the side cables which is slightly OT, but the same applies to the DIY rear cable)

      Great how-tos though, i would not have attempted this without your threads.
      Last edited by piledriver; 07-22-2013 at 11:55 PM. Reason: typo

    22. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      07-23-2013 07:08 AM #22
      Have the top on and centered up etc, but no matter what I do the center/rear bit pops out flush when I try to put the top down... Doesn't pop out completely as the corners/sides are set, seems like i'm missing something. Like glue... Cable has some adjustment left, but seems pretty darn tight. New top is cloth.

      The cable isn't tight enough, or you have too much slop between the rear cable tray and the bead.

      One other thing I just ran across, is that the previous installed of the top, used rope caulk in the cable tray that prevented me from sitting the corners of the top I was installing. So be sure that your cable tray is devoid of crap, and that the width of the tray is equal. I have seen trays that were bent too wide, and then too close..... Just a FWIIW.

      Another thing: I'm pretty sure you need to use steel ferrules when making these tension cables
      (will be making some up tomorrow for my own use, although I'm sure someplace sells them)

      The aluminum ferrules sold at Hodepot etc don't work...clamp well enough,

      The factory cables used: Steel ferrules, or in the case of the rear cable, the swaged item was still steel.
      (referring to the side cables which is slightly OT, but the same applies to the DIY rear cable)

      Great how-tos though, i would not have attempted this without your threads.


      No they work fine and dandy if you follow the guides, I used a parallel wire crimper. I used the middle and the end or blue and red. A regular crimper as in a amp tool will not get it tight.

      You can also use a PUNCH and a hammer.

      Last edited by briano1234; 07-23-2013 at 08:39 AM.
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
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      07-23-2013 08:40 PM #23
      Thank you, i'll take another look at the tray and give the crimps a shot with a punch.

      Should the tray be a snug fit? Right now it's quite sloppy, but it doesn't look bent up, perhaps the vinyl was a little more forgiving... Should it snap in tighter? (should I try crimping it down a tad?)

    24. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      07-24-2013 06:26 AM #24
      Get the cable as tight as you can without bursting it.
      It is pulling out of the tray because of the following reasons.

      It wasn't seated correctly.
      The rear material wasn't trimmed to the seam.
      There is too much material in the tray.
      The tray has crap in it so the cable doesn't seat well.
      The tray was expanded (widened), This you can get smaller with the cable installed and tightened correctly. Open the top half way. Using a 2X4 Block and a hammer, SMACK the TRAY TIGHTER.
      BE WARNED IF you don't what it CAREFULLY you can hurt your top. ONLY SMACK THE WOOD and you can bend the rear cable tray tighter...

      Here is how easy a trimmed top rear cable goes in.
      A trimmed top








      Here is a tighten rear cable


      This little rivet does a lot.
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

      Where are my grounds ?
      I am a Commodian. I tell really Crappy jokes.

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      07-27-2013 04:19 PM #25
      Sorted, combination of 2 things did the trick: (one was a cheat, but a good one)

      1: spun cover tabs so that sewn seam was not behind cable, but just outside it on bottom of groove
      2: Slit a ~42" length of 1/4" vinyl tubing and slid it over the rear cable cable, greased it up, used a 3/16" hex T handle and a rubber mallet to walk it in every ~2 inches after snugging everything else up and tugging to position... Snapped into place and well secured now.

      The latter inspired by the new rubber-coated cable you showed above.

      I had been working wit a std 10mm wrench , the suggested 10mm flex head ratchet finally showed up, turned it into a 10 minute job.
      (At least the vcable tightening bit)

      ...Off to recrimp some side cables with a hammer and punch so I can finish this.
      Last edited by piledriver; 07-27-2013 at 04:21 PM.

    26. Member teknikALLEN's Avatar
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      07-29-2013 11:28 PM #26
      Quote Originally Posted by briano1234 View Post
      No, you can use what you like.... Vinyl clad won't rust as easily.
      Neither will coated stainless steel...

      Quote Originally Posted by briano1234 View Post
      1/8 is what you want to use.
      Is that with the Vinyl coating or bare?

      Additionally, is there and reason besides additional flexibility to use high count multi strand wire? Will extremely flexible wire cause any unseating issues in your opinion?

      Regarding the springs on the springs on the side cables, do you have an idea as to the maximum load and extended length for those?

      Would "Extension Spring Anchor Studs" be more useful than eye bolts?

      If any parts at the links above look suitable, please do not hesitate to mention it... I am trying to build a parts list for SS from the McMaster-Carr catalog.

      Sorry for the high jack... my thread went by the wayside and I could not generate more interest.
      Last edited by teknikALLEN; 07-30-2013 at 06:40 AM.

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      07-30-2013 07:27 PM #27
      I could never find the flat chain stuff, so I make the side front loop ~2" long to compensate
      This obviously moves the ferrule back so the cable flexes NOT at the ferrule (spreads flexing out)

      After I got the front all glued, the rear popped out again, i'm hoping cutting out for the rear window will give it what it needs for material.
      Last edited by piledriver; 07-30-2013 at 07:32 PM.

    28. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      07-30-2013 08:56 PM #28
      Quote Originally Posted by piledriver View Post

      After I got the front all glued, the rear popped out again, i'm hoping cutting out for the rear window will give it what it needs for material.
      It won't
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
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      08-03-2013 06:06 PM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by briano1234 View Post
      It won't

      Actually cutting out for the window did the trick in spades, looks like my top has already shrunk a bit or could have used an inch someplace. The center under the window unsurprisingly no longer has any tension on it, so it has no desire to pop out.. (cloth top FWIW) I also used liquid soap as cable lube this time so it washes out.

      I can also close the top again, I could not force it enough and have the rear strap stay in place.
      No longer an issue. Perhaps the top was not quite right...

      (I'm outside in 100+ F heat, under a shady tree at least)

      I wish I had at least rough cut out for the rear window prior to gluing the front, would have laid properly.
      Now I get to try that again..
      Last edited by piledriver; 08-03-2013 at 06:12 PM.

    30. Member teknikALLEN's Avatar
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      08-06-2013 01:41 PM #30
      Quote Originally Posted by piledriver View Post
      Reviving an oldie but goodie, did anyone ever decide to make SS cabriolet top cable sets to sell? Finding stainless steel anything around here is not happening much, ebay shipping kills on a dozen items from a dozen sources...
      I'm trying to source as much as I can from McMaster Carr. They have a bunch of stuff, ss vinyl clad cable, ss springs, 2 gas springs (struts, non stainless steel), and 4 Gas-Spring End Fittings (eyelets, zinc, non stainless steel) .

      I have part numbers for the gas springs (struts)
      "9416K337 (Same as 9416K15) Gas Spring with Threaded Ends 110 Force, 10.71" Extended Length, 3.94" Stroke In stock at $13.04 Each",
      and the Gas-Spring End Fittings,
      "9416K88 Zinc Eyelet End Fitting for M8 Thread Gas Spring with Threaded Ends, Zinc 0.32", 1.1", 0.31", 0.19". $1.62 Each".

      but as I asked above, I need more info:

      Quote Originally Posted by briano1234 View Post
      No, you can use what you like.... Vinyl clad won't rust as easily.
      Neither will coated stainless steel...

      Quote Originally Posted by briano1234 View Post
      1/8 is what you want to use.
      Is that with the Vinyl coating or bare?

      Additionally, is there and reason besides additional flexibility to use high count multi strand wire? Will extremely flexible wire cause any unseating issues in your opinion?

      Regarding the springs on the springs on the side cables, do you have an idea as to the maximum load and extended length for those?

      Would "Extension Spring Anchor Studs" be more useful than eye bolts?

      If any parts at the links above look suitable, please do not hesitate to mention it... I am trying to build a parts list for SS from the McMaster-Carr catalog.

      Sorry for the high jack... my thread went by the wayside and I could not generate more interest.

    31. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      08-06-2013 02:01 PM #31
      Is that with the Vinyl coating or bare?

      All wire is sold as thickness no matter if it is coated (vinyl clad) or bare.

      Additionally, is there and reason besides additional flexibility to use high count multi strand wire? Will extremely flexible wire cause any unseating issues in your opinion?

      Allows it to bend at the corners, if it didn't then the top wouldn't seal correctly.
      No flexible wire won't unseat as it is supposed to flex.

      Regarding the springs on the springs on the side cables, do you have an idea as to the maximum load and extended length for those?

      No, but you could take one to a good hardware store and match it up as they have spring selections there.


      Would "Extension Spring Anchor Studs" be more useful than eye bolts?
      No as they wouldn't truly anchor the cable fast and would allow it to "pop" out,


      Sorry for the high jack... my thread went by the wayside and I could not generate more interest.

      Not a problem.
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

      Where are my grounds ?
      I am a Commodian. I tell really Crappy jokes.

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