clutch in and rpms go up 500

[running_corrado]

EDIT Adding pics and possible progress.

So let me start from the beginning.. Some friends and I put drc 268 cams in my vr on sunday. Its all together now and when Im driving and I put the clutch in the rpms raise 500 and hold for a second then slowly go back down. Almost as if the throttle is sticking. No that is not the issue, because it only does it when the clutch is in. And to make things more interesting, It only does it if i shift below 4k. After that it revs normal in between shifts. The motor also idles high and will bounce a bit. If I'm at a light the rpms will be around 1100 then if I rev it a bit they will SLOWLY come back down then MAYBE go around 800 where they should be.







Okay, So I may be onto something. I found this wiring harness and noticed that one of the wires was disconnected on it. Then on the PCV hoses im guessing the baffle had a crack in it somewhere because it just ripped off today when I was messing with all of that stuff. I noticed what looks like a vac hose going to the intake manifold from the pcv hoses, so maybe it is a vac leak from this? and now its completely off and running the same way lol. Maybe someone can tell me what that harness does? maybe that is the reason for my problems? (or maybe my problem is that i have a vw? )

Thanks again

Josh

[GTIVRon]

My guess is that it comes with having a lightened flywheel..

I've also never been in a car where the gas pedal is even with the rest of the pedals.

[Scotty_2.0]

Haven't driven mine in a while, but I'm almost positive mine does the same. It revs just a hair when clutching out at a light. You're effectively taking the trans load off the engine. I would guess this would be more noticeable with a LW FW as the mass of the stock FW keeps the engine RPM a little more stable.

Even though you're not in gear, when the clutch is engaged while stopped the gears inside the trans are spinning. They're just not locked to the input shaft. So there is some loan provided from the trans that is released when depressing the clutch.

[running_corrado]

i do have a lightened flywheel, but this is different. I fixed the gas pedal part, we didnt have the slack taken out of the throttle cable. But my main issue is when i put the clutch in the rpms go up 500 and hold it for a second then go down. when driving, it sounds like i dont know how to "drive", as if im learning how to drive stick and slipping the clutch. I do have a lightened flywheel, but this is different. It is as if the throttle is sticking. But what is interesting, is if I am in gear and I let off the gas and just ride the gear then put the clutch in it is like how it used to be. The rpms do go up a little because of the flywheel but they go right back down. But if i drive normal, even with my foot off the pedal, the rpms go up 500 and hold for a second then slowly go down. That is the only way i can explain it.

I noticed that in first gear if im going really slow that the car would "jerk" so i cleaned the maf hoping that was the problem, and the "jerking" is gone. But that other problem is still there.

After cleaning the maf, now when i pull to a stoplight or just stop the rpms will go to 1100 and bounce around there then go down to 750 800 ish like they should.

I really dont know what is going on..

[Scotty_2.0]

In that case I would look at the ISV. Once the throttle closes, the ISV takes over and is responsible for a smooth idle rpm. I had a similar issue where mine would hunt up and down for a few seconds before evening out everytime I let off the throttle at a stop. Swapped in a spare ISV I had and it was fixed.

[jee60]

sounds like a possible vacuum leak

[GTIVRon]

Yea, I'd say vacuum leak or ISV problem. Does yours have that throttle close damper thing that prevents the throttle body from slamming shut?

[running_corrado]

In that case I would look at the ISV. Once the throttle closes, the ISV takes over and is responsible for a smooth idle rpm. I had a similar issue where mine would hunt up and down for a few seconds before evening out everytime I let off the throttle at a stop. Swapped in a spare ISV I had and it was fixed.

Before I cleaned the maf my idle didnt really fluctuate, but now it does lol im thinking it is possibly the isv. the idle will hold at like 1500 then slowly go to 1100 then if i apply throttle it will MAYBE settle back down at 800 ish.

One thing that i noticed today... I havent "hammered" on my motor yet because the head is fresh and im still breaking it in.. but if i ride the gear longer and shift around 4k it is normal. as if nothing is wrong. It has the normal lightened flywheel sound that it SHOULD have haha.

Also, a friend of mine that has taken apart a few vr6 motors thinks my block is obd1 but my ecu is obd2. When i got the car, i was under the impression that the motor was out of a 97 passat. From what i have researched my ecu IS obd2. here is the number on the ecu 021906259N. If anyone has any input it would be appreciated. ANYWAYS if the car is obd2, the vag port is either not there or hiding in a great spot. so whoever did the swap is a F****** prick, or im wrong and the ecu is obd1.
So i cannot scan my motor to get a definite answer for what is going on.


in the end... you gotta love vw haha

[gti vr6er]

Just to sympathize, I've had the exact same problem for about 3-4 months now. I'm not sure what am ISV is(I'd like to know so I can see if that's the problem) but ive narrowed it down to either a vacuum leak or bad CTS...or ofcourse the MAF. Reason I say this is my car has 115k on it and never replaced the cts(I have a small leak too) and figured my t stat is slightly stuck open from dried up coolant around the o ring. Also, I have a huge vacuum leak from a tear in the vac hose that goes from brake booster to back of mani(the one with the check valve on it). I've ordered that hose which should be here soon so I'll let u know if it fixes my problem. My MAF has never bern replaced either so its prob timd for a new one. This problem is annoying as hell and can clearly see that it's robbing me of tons of gas...let alone looking like a jerk everytime I pull into a driveway(sounds like doing it on purpose and people look). I've subscriber so we can get to the bottom of this once and for all.

[running_corrado]

Just to sympathize, I've had the exact same problem for about 3-4 months now. I'm not sure what am ISV is(I'd like to know so I can see if that's the problem) but ive narrowed it down to either a vacuum leak or bad CTS...or ofcourse the MAF. Reason I say this is my car has 115k on it and never replaced the cts(I have a small leak too) and figured my t stat is slightly stuck open from dried up coolant around the o ring. Also, I have a huge vacuum leak from a tear in the vac hose that goes from brake booster to back of mani(the one with the check valve on it). I've ordered that hose which should be here soon so I'll let u know if it fixes my problem. My MAF has never bern replaced either so its prob timd for a new one. This problem is annoying as hell and can clearly see that it's robbing me of tons of gas...let alone looking like a jerk everytime I pull into a driveway(sounds like doing it on purpose and people look). I've subscriber so we can get to the bottom of this once and for all.

lol not only do we look like jerks, but noobs that cant drive stick lol
I to may be onto something, I edited the first post with pics of what I found. Hopefully someone else has had experience with this!!!

[gti vr6er]

^^i totally agree! Anyhow, hopefully some vr6 gurus will chime in here as I'm sure this is not just an isolated problem with us two.

[running_corrado]

So, I installed the PCV fix kit from 42DD and it has not fixed my problems!!! ugh I already cleaned the MAF (maybe it needs to be cleaned better lol)

If anyone else has any ideas please post them!!!

[GTIVRon]

Have you done anything to check for vacuum leaks yet?

[running_corrado]

Not yet.. I work night so finding time to work on my car can be difficult. Im thinking the coolant temp sensor could have something to do with it as well.

I thought my Corrado was hungry for $$$$ lol boy was I wrong

[vdubzkikazz]

Have you guys tried idle learn?This happen to me about a year ago with my 2.slow but i never got to the end of it since i sold it to get my recent vr.. good luck..

[running_corrado]

What is idle learn?

[vdubzkikazz]

What is idle learn?

Well when you disconnect the battery or your throttle body the ecm looses the idle position, and it needs to learn that again. Try this, disconnect the battery and connect the + & - together this will cause an electricity discharge and reset everything (leave both terminals hooked to each other for at least 15min) hook up everything and turn the key to the on position DO NOT TOUCH the gas or start the car wait until the tps stops clicking and turn key off then turn key back on start car and let idle for at least 10 min do not touch anything then drive on normal roads and highway so the ecm can adapt.. gl..

[gti vr6er]

Well when you disconnect the battery or your throttle body the ecm looses the idle position, and it needs to learn that again. Try this, disconnect the battery and connect the + & - together this will cause an electricity discharge and reset everything (leave both terminals hooked to each other for at least 15min) hook up everything and turn the key to the on position DO NOT TOUCH the gas or start the car wait until the tps stops clicking and turn key off then turn key back on start car and let idle for at least 10 min do not touch anything then drive on normal roads and highway so the ecm can adapt.. gl..

What do u mean by connect the + and - together? U mean have the plus and minus cable ends touch or put the plus cable on the neg side and vice versa? Just need to know so I don't blow up the car:p I'm not too versed on electrical matters so just need to know specifics before I try this. Thx

[dogyouare]

this is obd1 not 2 (no need to re adapt). also the broken wire that plugs into the pcv is a heater element for cold climate (so it does not freezup in the winter). as you can see you dont have prong in the plastic making ur vehicle a hot climate car and you dont need it. i would not worry about that wire...

this might help...

http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...lf/Engine/23/5

[dogyouare]

the isv is idle stabilizer valve. http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...ctrical/278/10

it bypass the throttle body so that ur engine can breath while ur off the throttle. you can clean these out with carb/ throttle body cleaner. just ask mk2 people.( been there done that with my mk2s)

which was only used in obd1. When obd2 96+ came out they stuck a motor on the side of the TB and it would move the throttle plate causing airflow so it can idle) but problem was is you need to adapt them (learn the throttle). Which make car idle weird and run bad (sometime expecally when they got rid of throttle cable (mk4)).

[vdubzkikazz]

Yes connect both cable ends together while disconnected from battery, if they don't reach use a wrench or screw driver to bridge..