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Thread: transfer case prop shaft seal replacement

  1. Member vex004's Avatar
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    05-02-2012 02:15 PM #1
    Has anyone here had to replace their transfer case prop shaft seal? If so, how difficult would this be to replace? For a few months now I noticed it has been slinging some fluid up on the down pipes and other parts in its area. Is this 'normal'? The fluid loss isn't major (no puddles on the garage floor) - I just figured I'd replace it while i have the subframe out of the car for other work that I'm doing.

    #5

    #7





    Any input would be greatly appreciated

    -Jim
    Last edited by vex004; 05-02-2012 at 08:26 PM. Reason: more photos

  2. 05-03-2012 04:02 AM #2
    You need to undo the lower engine mount then the engine can swing forwards when you have undone the three prop shaft bolts from the flange. You can gun the nut off the drive flange then use a puller to pull the flange off the diff...you can then get a sharp screw driver to force the seal out....and then push the new one in and reverse the process....remember you will need to drain the gearbox oil first or you will be wearing it....the worse smelling oil on any part of the car lol. I wouldnt touch the bearing.
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  3. 05-03-2012 04:11 AM #3
    Wow clean looking engine bay transfer casing, wish my car stayed that clean.
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    Build thread http://www.r32oc.com/topic/14007-stage3-turbo/

  4. Member vex004's Avatar
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    05-03-2012 12:57 PM #4
    Thanks for the detailed response

    I learned the hard way before when I separated the transfer case from the bell housing underneath the car - fluid all over the place



    Quote Originally Posted by Slapbladder View Post
    You need to undo the lower engine mount then the engine can swing forwards when you have undone the three prop shaft bolts from the flange. You can gun the nut off the drive flange then use a puller to pull the flange off the diff...you can then get a sharp screw driver to force the seal out....and then push the new one in and reverse the process....remember you will need to drain the gearbox oil first or you will be wearing it....the worse smelling oil on any part of the car lol. I wouldnt touch the bearing.

    $77 for a seal! http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/09a409400/ES288019/

  5. Member vex004's Avatar
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    05-04-2012 10:36 PM #5
    3 prop shaft bolts removed:


    I couldn't fit the impact gun up there so I tried to use a breaker bar to remove the nut holding the flange but this was impossible, so I removed the transfer case from the car.


    After a few seconds with the impact I was able to break it free and the flange was able to pull out by hand.


    The seal should arrive tomorrow at my local dealership in the AM
    Last edited by vex004; 05-04-2012 at 10:43 PM.

  6. Member PingPanzer's Avatar
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    12-27-2012 05:19 PM #6
    Hey, thanks for the pics, and detailed info. How did this work out? Notice anything else since then? I have the exact same leak and looks like I need to do this as well.

    Thanks!!

  7. Member vex004's Avatar
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    12-29-2012 03:23 PM #7
    Seems to be fixed for now

  8. Member Brake_Dust's Avatar
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    12-31-2012 12:13 PM #8
    may need to do this soon too.
    Thanks for the pics.
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  9. Member PingPanzer's Avatar
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    12-31-2012 03:09 PM #9
    One more question- did you replace or reuse the nut too?


  10. Member vex004's Avatar
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    12-31-2012 06:08 PM #10
    I reused all nuts and bolts. However, I did replace the seals that get sandwiched between the bell housing and transfer case (I don't have the part numbers at the moment, if I find them ill post them up.)

  11. Member PingPanzer's Avatar
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    01-02-2013 05:28 PM #11
    Thanks- are you talking about #5 in the 2nd picture above?

    Quote Originally Posted by vex004 View Post
    I reused all nuts and bolts. However, I did replace the seals that get sandwiched between the bell housing and transfer case (I don't have the part numbers at the moment, if I find them ill post them up.)

  12. Member vex004's Avatar
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    01-02-2013 09:00 PM #12
    Chances are you will need to separate the transfer case from the transmission (bell housing side) unless you have a mini impact gun or have the car up on a lift with a very long breaker bar. If you never removed the transfer case before there was a very helpful diy created that shows how to http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-Quick-Version

    Here are the pn's for the seals I replaced
    Last edited by vex004; 01-02-2013 at 09:18 PM.

  13. Member PingPanzer's Avatar
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    03-07-2013 02:31 PM #13
    Thanks for the link and part numbers. I plan on taking this on this weekend. Do you have a guess as to what the transfer case weighs? Im assuming approximately 30lbs?

  14. Member vex004's Avatar
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    03-07-2013 03:36 PM #14
    It's been awhile, I'd say not more than 30lbs

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    03-08-2013 01:54 PM #15
    Just weight my spare transfer box. It was 13.9 kg - 30.6 lb
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  16. Member PingPanzer's Avatar
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    03-09-2013 09:07 AM #17
    Haha, lucky guess! Thanks guys. I am probably going to start this Sunday; my parts are all here now.


  17. Member PingPanzer's Avatar
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    03-10-2013 04:52 PM #18
    For anyone else doing this: I recommend getting 02d 409 339 ahead of time... look at mine!!


    photo(8) by akpingel, on Flickr

    Also as a note, I hacked a 6mm allen wrench then used 1/4 to 1/2 to impact wrench to get the 5th bolt to get the transfer case out.

    Answered my question! 2.6 liters of oil is shared amongst the transmission and transfer case. Explains why the thing continued to leak like crazy hours after having the transfer case off.
    Question: How do you get oil back in the transfer case?? Ive been brainstorming a little but cant come up with a solution that doesnt get more oil on the floor than in the case.

    Thanks,
    Alex
    Last edited by PingPanzer; 03-10-2013 at 11:45 PM.

  18. Member vex004's Avatar
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    03-11-2013 04:48 PM #19
    I normally just fill it up until fluid runs out of the transmission fill plug and hand tighten the fill plug. Then while the car is up in the air (All 4 wheels!) start the car and put it in gear for a few minutes to get the fluid moving around inside of the case, you should see all 4 wheels moving. After turning the car off, top off the fluid and you should be good!

  19. Member PingPanzer's Avatar
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    03-11-2013 05:33 PM #20
    Well, I finished this task. The good news is with the new disk my driveshaft isnt bouncing off the steering rack!! I wish I had done this a long time ago. The bad news is I did not replace that stupid seal. Dealer wanted 107 bucks for it and I cant see why its that important. I guess time will tell.

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