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Thread: intermittent p0341.

  1. 05-03-2012 01:12 AM #1
    Hey all... Ive been searching around for a solution to this problem. I have had about eight sets of eyes on my motor. Been over the time about a dozen times, and I can't seem to get rid of the cam sensor code. How it works is.... I drive 2... maybe 3 days.. then I get the code, accompanied by a huge top end lag. as if the timing isn't advancing. Then... a day or two later, it mysteriously disappears for 2 or 3 more days again. WTH? Anyone have this particular situation before?

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    05-03-2012 01:17 AM #2
    Quote Originally Posted by tjoh311 View Post
    Hey all... Ive been searching around for a solution to this problem. I have had about eight sets of eyes on my motor. Been over the time about a dozen times, and I can't seem to get rid of the cam sensor code. How it works is.... I drive 2... maybe 3 days.. then I get the code, accompanied by a huge top end lag. as if the timing isn't advancing. Then... a day or two later, it mysteriously disappears for 2 or 3 more days again. WTH? Anyone have this particular situation before?
    What have you done to try to cure the problem?

    Replace the distributor with camshaft sensor?

    Reset the timing belt to change the intermediate shaft timing?

  3. 05-03-2012 01:34 AM #3
    Sorry, I forgot to post that... At this point I have focused mainly on the timing of the cam and the intermediate shaft. The marks that I have been using was the "0" on the flywheel and the hash mark at the top of the distributor. The marks on the cam cover are iffy because that shroud is kinda warped but I use it and the one on the back of the cam gear that lines up with the gasket mating surface. I haven't tried replacing the distributor assembly because most of the stuff I have read and heard says that it either works, or your car doesn't run. Not sure how true that is. This car starts up really easy and runs without a sputter however. And it would seem to me that if the timing were out, the CEL wouldn't simply "go away" only to return 2 days later.

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    05-03-2012 03:24 AM #4
    What year is the car, and which engine does it have?

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    05-03-2012 03:29 AM #5
    im kind of having the same problem ive reset / overlooked my timing and it just dosent seem right, and theres now way to advance the timing.. right? its all electronic?
    WOW!
    7200 rpm in 5th is ~ 82mph!
    do you get into 3rd leaving your driveway?

  6. 05-03-2012 05:23 AM #6
    It is a 97 2.0

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    05-03-2012 06:02 AM #7
    Quote Originally Posted by tjoh311 View Post
    It is a 97 2.0
    OBDII cars are very picky. If the distributor is off more than the slightest amount, you will get a CEL. And while the distributors are supposed to be interchangable among all ABA years, I've found that a OBDI engine distributor in a OBDII car, or a OBDII engine distributor in a OBDI car will get you a steady or a intermittent CEL.

    If the car had this problem when you got it, it's possible that the Previous Owner caused the problem by swapping the distributor, OR either you/him/her/them caused the problem by replacing the timing belt and installing/adjusting it off a little bit.
    Last edited by germancarnut51; 05-03-2012 at 06:05 AM.

  8. 05-03-2012 09:16 AM #8
    Ill keep messing with it

  9. 05-03-2012 10:15 AM #9
    I've also heard that the crank posistion sensor could also be faulty. Has anyone had to replace this?

  10. 05-03-2012 11:47 AM #10
    You'd be asking less questions with an A3 Bentley service manual. If you can't replace something with it, then you need help. The cam and crank position sensors are not difficult to change. I suggest changing both at once, for good clean signals. A bad cam sensor will throw a constant, never flashing/intermittent code. You can check the continuity on the cam sensor and wires with a multimeter. Be 200% sure you are on the right settings.

    Speaking of clean signals, you probably just aren't getting one. Disconnect the main harness connector on the top right of motor, and check out the connectors inside. The outside line groove cover screws out only so far, then pulls straight out. If no bad connection in there, bad harness or ground for it elsewhere. Spay any corrosion with electrical cleaner, then carefully go with a toothpick to scrub down each connector. If it's in bad enough shape, no metal will be left and the contact cleaner will dissolve it away. Don't worry if so, the bastard didn't work anyway.
    Last edited by emkaytree; 05-03-2012 at 11:51 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Rutledge View Post
    Did you know that it's not pronounced Em Kay ? ALL OF THE CAR LOUNGE WILL BE HAPPY TO LET YOU KNOW THAT. SERIOUSLY. IT STANDS FOR MARK. DID YOU KNOW THAT? BEFORE THAT A1,A2, A3, ETC WAS USED. LIVE UP TO TCL STANDARDS BEFORE YOU GET ON MY ASS. THAT'S DISGUSTING.
    Example of TCL's standards

  11. 05-10-2012 12:54 PM #11
    So I thought I'd give a quick update....
    I went through my wiring harness last weekend, double checked all of the connections and made sure there was good continuity and they were corrosion free. Checked to make sure the drains under the rain tray were clear and my ecu wasn't swimming. Downloaded Mitchell factory service manual online and measured the resistance on the crankshaft sensor. It read 1k ohm across 1 &3 and open on the rest.... which is perfect. Decided to take a shot and replace the distributor. Got it in and lined up, drove the car around for about a day, and Sunday afternoon the cel shut off. Driving into work this morning...... and it's back. Wtf? Losing my mind here. Anyone near portland with a VAG-COM?

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  12. 05-10-2012 01:15 PM #12
    I really can't see any reason for this. Timing is perfect ... what else could be missing?

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    05-10-2012 01:49 PM #13
    The engine will run without the distributor even being plugged it. But, a faulty camshaft sensor could cause the engine to run poorly when the distributor is plugged.

    Try unplugging the distributor and see how/if the engine runs the same way. If the engine runs the same way whether the distributor is plugged in, OR not, then the problem is not the distributor.

  14. 05-10-2012 02:07 PM #14
    Well the whole distributor assembly is brand new. And the car doesn't run poorly at all. After a while tho, I think it goes to limp in/ limp home mode and loses power up top. Up until the code..... perfect tho. Starts right up idles nice and lots of power. What should I expect when I unplug the distributor?

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  15. 05-10-2012 02:12 PM #15
    When you replaced the distributor did you have everything at DTC prior to removing it and did you install the new one with everything at DTC? If not, then your timing is most likely still off and you need to remove the distributor, time everything, and then install distributor at DTC. You can't just take the distributor out and throw a new one or you'll get the code you're getting. Distributor is out of phase.

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    05-10-2012 02:30 PM #16
    It helps when you're looking for guidance if you give the whole story.

    You never mentioned that you replaced the distributor. You say the replacement is brand new? Brand new as in a brand new from Bosch, never been in a car before, OR brand new as in it's a rebuilt, that you got from a auto parts store?

    When replacing the distributor with a used one (I don't care if you got a "rebuilt" from a store, or a used one from a salvage yard or from someone parting a car, the distributor is USED), you need to make sure that it came from the same engine (OBDI or OBDII) as your engine.

    THE ONLY WAY TO DO THIS IS BY MATCHING UP THE ORIGINAL PART NUMBERS THAT ARE STAMPED ON THE DISTRIBUTOR BODY. The parts books say the replacement distributors are interchangable, BUT from my experience, if you stick a distributor from a OBDI engine on a OBDII engine, OR a distributor from a OBDII engine on a OBDI engine, you are going to get a CEL that you can't get rid of, or a intermittent CEL and the engine may have performance problems.

    If you got a brand new from the factory Bosch distributor, you will get a CEL unless the distributor part number is listed specifically for an OBDI engine (if your engine is OBDI), and not a universal fits any engine (OBDI or OBDII).

    If your engine is OBDII, then a brand new from the factory Bosch distributor universal (fits any year engine distributor) should work, BUT you have to have the timing PERFECT, OR you will get a CEL.

    My guess would be that you have the wrong distributor OR the timing is incorrect.

  17. 05-10-2012 03:41 PM #17
    Ya. I did state that I replaced it.... its about 4 posts up...... but that's not important. It is a Bosch unit and I made sure the part #s were identical.


    @zero.... yes I set everything at top dead center, took it out. Rechecked my marks, then installed the new and made surfeit was in phase

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  18. 05-10-2012 04:10 PM #18
    If it's new and same replacement I think the timing has to be off. A timing light would be more exact or if you have VAG-COM, you should be able to look at the distributor timing. I am not sure what group it is under measuring blocks, but you can just start from 001 and work your way up.

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    05-10-2012 04:42 PM #19
    +1 for timing

  20. 05-10-2012 05:37 PM #20
    But would the code disappear for 3 days with no issues?

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  21. 05-10-2012 06:30 PM #21
    http://www.obd-codes.com/p0341

    1k ohm range? That's way out. I've already read 500-700 ohms for our sensors, and that's it. I don't know what kind of manual that is, but it isn't an A3 Bentley. Trust NOTHING else. I'd feel confident enough to tell you to order a crank sensor after you check your wiring for frays and breaks.
    Quote Originally Posted by Rutledge View Post
    Did you know that it's not pronounced Em Kay ? ALL OF THE CAR LOUNGE WILL BE HAPPY TO LET YOU KNOW THAT. SERIOUSLY. IT STANDS FOR MARK. DID YOU KNOW THAT? BEFORE THAT A1,A2, A3, ETC WAS USED. LIVE UP TO TCL STANDARDS BEFORE YOU GET ON MY ASS. THAT'S DISGUSTING.
    Example of TCL's standards

  22. 05-10-2012 08:54 PM #22
    Really? Crazy! I guess that's next to look at. I could have sworn that was the value they cited. Ill check again. Would my car even be running with that sensor that far out?

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  23. 05-10-2012 10:09 PM #23
    Quote Originally Posted by tjoh311 View Post
    Really? Crazy! I guess that's next to look at. I could have sworn that was the value they cited. Ill check again. Would my car even be running with that sensor that far out?

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    If it's giving a constant 1k signal its very possible car would still run, since our ecu's are pretty nice. If the signal were all over the place, which may happen in time, the car would stop running while warm. See if it just spits 1k constantly or waves around with engine speed change. It's a 2 maner
    Quote Originally Posted by Rutledge View Post
    Did you know that it's not pronounced Em Kay ? ALL OF THE CAR LOUNGE WILL BE HAPPY TO LET YOU KNOW THAT. SERIOUSLY. IT STANDS FOR MARK. DID YOU KNOW THAT? BEFORE THAT A1,A2, A3, ETC WAS USED. LIVE UP TO TCL STANDARDS BEFORE YOU GET ON MY ASS. THAT'S DISGUSTING.
    Example of TCL's standards

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    05-10-2012 11:00 PM #24
    Why did you replace the distributor in the first place?

    Did you buy the car with the CEL on, and that code showing?

    If you bought the car with the CEL on, and the code showing, how can you be sure that someone didn't already replace the distributor with the wrong one?

    Have you owned the car for a while without any problems, and one day the CEL lit up?

  25. 05-10-2012 11:08 PM #25
    Ok I see. Ya I bought the car with no issues. Drove it a week, replaced the timing belt. Drove it about another 6 months, then the codes started flying. Got thru most of them. .... this is all that remains. I replaced the distributor because at this point, I had gone down the list of common fixes. Seriously, I spent the last 3 months on this alone.

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    05-10-2012 11:13 PM #26
    Then the timing is still screwed up or it's the wrong distributor.

  27. 05-11-2012 12:17 AM #27
    I'm gonna tear it all apart again this weekend. This time ill take the pulleys of and inspect the keyways and such. I imagine like most cars that crank bolt is a stretch bolt so ill grab one of those on the way home tomorrow. I will post back.

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