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    Thread: My GTI rusty rebuild progress

    1. Member heerschap's Avatar
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      05-03-2012 04:44 PM #1
      This is my rusty rebuild project for the summer and this thread is about my progress . Its my first time, so go easy. Any advice or constructive criticism is welcome.

















      its a 97 GTI Drivers Edition vr6 with 75,000 km. paid $1500 and probably spent like $3000 on it over the 3 years ive had it now. its mostly been in storage and engine runs great. I just did the timing chains and clutch back in the winter. I now need to fix some important rusty spots ive found and this is going to be much easier with the engine out, plus I need to clean up the block and replace some parts here and there. I also have lots of rusty pictures of areas to be fixed in my sig, but for now one section at a time.




      my progress so far





      pop rivets and construction adhesive
      its actually quite strong though









      next step is sub frame comin out.
      Last edited by heerschap; 05-03-2012 at 05:02 PM.

    2. 05-03-2012 04:44 PM #2
      Looks great
      Quote Originally Posted by Rutledge View Post
      Did you know that it's not pronounced Em Kay ? ALL OF THE CAR LOUNGE WILL BE HAPPY TO LET YOU KNOW THAT. SERIOUSLY. IT STANDS FOR MARK. DID YOU KNOW THAT? BEFORE THAT A1,A2, A3, ETC WAS USED. LIVE UP TO TCL STANDARDS BEFORE YOU GET ON MY ASS. THAT'S DISGUSTING.
      Example of TCL's standards

    3. Member WakusPakus's Avatar
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      05-03-2012 04:46 PM #3
      your car is one giant red X
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    4. Member MYGTI_MA's Avatar
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      05-03-2012 05:44 PM #4
      for a DE car

    5. 05-03-2012 05:55 PM #5
      How is it so rusty with that low of km?? I had to convert it...46,000 miles. Holy cow. I thought mine was bad, but I've got 178,000 mi / 287,000 km.
      Quote Originally Posted by mhjett View Post
      I'm convinced you commuted through a salt mine.
      Quote Originally Posted by Mk3_Addicted View Post
      Bariman82 is the king of rust patching...He is the guy you want to talk to.
      My take on fixing a rotten mk3.

    6. Member heerschap's Avatar
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      05-03-2012 06:03 PM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by Bariman82 View Post
      How is it so rusty with that low of km?? I had to convert it...46,000 miles. Holy cow. I thought mine was bad, but I've got 178,000 mi / 287,000 km.
      all it takes is driving a couple salty winters up north here, then it sits outside and rust?.

    7. Member masdubate's Avatar
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      05-03-2012 06:12 PM #7
      My tower was the same way check my signature it might help

    8. Member heerschap's Avatar
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      05-03-2012 06:24 PM #8
      ya nice work ive been following both your guys threads. it really motivates me too!
      Last edited by heerschap; 05-03-2012 at 06:26 PM.

    9. Member heerschap's Avatar
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      05-07-2012 06:58 PM #9
      update:

      subframe and fenders are off




      now i need a plan of attack for this strut tower

      thinking of just cutting the rot out and welding a patch in???





      top seam of strut tower dont look to bad


      drivers side tower looks to be ok.


    10. Junior Member Shawn Biggs's Avatar
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      05-07-2012 07:13 PM #10
      Exterior looks clean though,a lot more than mine being a Michigan car,of course we all know how much rust is hidden,gl on the progress

    11. Member heerschap's Avatar
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      05-07-2012 07:56 PM #11
      hey thanks for all nice comments guys

      so anyone know if I could use a welder like this for solid weld?

      http://www.tscstores.com/CENTURY-AC1...ER-P15182.aspx

      even if I just do all tac welds for the patch then epoxy type filler the rest in, should be just as strong, if not stronger than a solid weld.?
      Last edited by heerschap; 05-07-2012 at 07:59 PM.

    12. Member heerschap's Avatar
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      05-08-2012 07:15 PM #12
      some anti rust stuff I will be using.





      got some cutting and wire brushing done.






      Im doing half the tower at a time, this way it dont bend or move out of position.

      im thinking of tac welding the patches in, then lay down a bead of JB weld over the seams afterwards.

    13. Member Dan821821's Avatar
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      05-08-2012 07:18 PM #13
      i would stay away from stick welding thin metal. And you will probably have to order ur electrodes online, 1/16 is very small and uncommon. But if you have some experience im sure its duable though ive never ran anything at 15 amps before. Also be sure to follow your duty cycle, that 20% is out of ten minutes, u can tack 2 mins worth in a 10min period or risk burning out ur welder.

      Imo id go with hardwire(mig) and argon75/25Co2 gas(i prefer esab wire).
      I know its about 3x the price but itll work for other projects down the line and do what u want with less fuss.

      http://weldingsupplyusa.com/index.ph...1#.T6mbc1Ks8cU

    14. Member heerschap's Avatar
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      05-08-2012 07:51 PM #14
      I can rent a mig for $40.00/day at the local rental place, but I need to buy the gas myself. not sure if the bottle comes with or not though?. thanks for the advice too. I dont have much experience with stick welding, I use to weld piping for greenhouse boilers like 10 years ago, but thats much thicker.

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      05-08-2012 07:57 PM #15
      From experience MIG welding rusty sheet metal, that's what you want, with the .023 wire, not .030, and gas (MIG) not flux core. And I would tac in place and then run short beads with just enough heat to get a smooth weld then letting the thing cool between or it will warp everything. Not sure if JB Weld will give you the strength you need.

    16. Member heerschap's Avatar
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      05-08-2012 08:23 PM #16
      ya I will go the mig route, although jb weld is apparently stronger than regular welds

      Properties (psi)
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      05-08-2012 09:01 PM #17
      ohh yah im watchin this 1
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    18. Member heerschap's Avatar
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      05-14-2012 07:42 PM #18
      got a little work done


      drilled out spot welds

      removed them with hammer n chizzle

      cleaned it up abit


      the other side which is almost rotted through.


      now for the outside brackets




      cleaned up




      will be cutting and grinding some of the really bad spots out next...
      Last edited by heerschap; 05-14-2012 at 07:44 PM.

    19. 05-15-2012 01:59 AM #19
      I had to do the same with my brackets. I honestly cannot believe how rusty that car is for the km. Given that shock tower, I hope you pull this repair off.
      Quote Originally Posted by mhjett View Post
      I'm convinced you commuted through a salt mine.
      Quote Originally Posted by Mk3_Addicted View Post
      Bariman82 is the king of rust patching...He is the guy you want to talk to.
      My take on fixing a rotten mk3.

    20. Member heerschap's Avatar
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      05-15-2012 10:08 AM #20
      I know right, I was told this car sat in a moist grassy field, plus our humid summers for many years rusting. anyway I hope I can too my brother is a welder by trade and he said he would help me weld it up, providing I get a good mig welder. I am taking my time and make sure its done right and this car will never see another winter anyway.

    21. Member heerschap's Avatar
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      05-16-2012 08:36 PM #21
      more surgery





      bought a used mig welder in the local classifieds for $320 included 3 full bottles of gas, couple spools of wire, helmet and a cart.



      let the games begin

    22. Member heerschap's Avatar
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      05-19-2012 12:03 PM #22
      fabed up some patches






      took care of some hard to get at pitted rust areas



      ready for some welding this weekend
      Last edited by heerschap; 05-19-2012 at 12:05 PM.

    23. 05-19-2012 07:43 PM #23
      Good job saving it **** rust.


      This is the only part I dislike. Looks terrible. Did you seek a donor tower from any junkyards? I'm sure somebody on here can source one for you.

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    24. Member Vdubztar03's Avatar
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      05-19-2012 07:54 PM #24
      Good start are u going to be shaving your bay ??
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    25. Member Teh_Chris's Avatar
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      05-21-2012 04:27 PM #25
      lookin good man ... goodluck with it ... my hatch was pretty rusty so i just bought a new eurohatch @ sowo this weekend
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    26. Member builtvw's Avatar
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      05-21-2012 05:55 PM #26
      damn and i thought my strut tower was bad. im gonna get a donor tower to fix mine from the junkyard. also hows the floor panels and rockers?
      Quote Originally Posted by ZACHER3tuning View Post
      only on vortex, could this turn into a argument.
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      05-21-2012 07:28 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by GTi2OV View Post
      Good job saving it **** rust.


      This is the only part I dislike. Looks terrible. Did you seek a donor tower from any junkyards? I'm sure somebody on here can source one for you.

      X2!!! Source a donor tower my friend. Wont be very costly. And will def be a bit better and safer than that... Ive crept around these forums enough to say that is a better option... Just my 2 cents though.

      GL

    28. Member A3VRSIX's Avatar
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      05-21-2012 08:37 PM #28
      holy crap! am I ever glad I live in California... ( about the only thing we got going for us, no rust)

      Good work brother! Oh! YeaaHH!

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    29. Member VWCATFISH's Avatar
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      05-21-2012 08:41 PM #29
      nice work keep it up

    30. Member heerschap's Avatar
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      05-21-2012 08:58 PM #30
      I though about the donor tower route alot, but the rotten rust went beyond just the tower itself. If i was to do it 100% right I would need to buy the entire inner panel which I hear is like $500 new and I didnt feel like going to the junk yard all day drilling and sawsalling one out either. Plus I would have to deal with getting the correct angle of the tower just right. so far i spent $15.00 on a 16 gauge peice of steel and 5 hours. I belive this is even stronger then it was new.

      thanks for the advice guys







      got some good penetration on these welds too.

      once its painted up and the air box is in, you will never know.
      Last edited by heerschap; 05-21-2012 at 09:37 PM.

    31. Member heerschap's Avatar
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      05-23-2012 06:45 PM #31
      some more cutting, grinding, bending, shaping, fitting, grinding, fitting...



      that seized brake line too I managed to round the corners off the fitting with my wrench too so it looks like I need to cut it and buy a flange kit.











      now for some tacking bending, fitting, tacking, bending....welding

    32. Member heerschap's Avatar
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      05-26-2012 03:39 PM #32
      finished welding up the tower



      started cleaning it up



      found another project



      might as well get a shift rebuild kit and some new cables while im at it.

    33. Member Teh_Chris's Avatar
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      05-26-2012 10:19 PM #33
      What size metal are u using .... Im gona have to do a repair to my drivers side strut tower , floorboards ,and under my passenger side tail light



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    34. Member Teh_Chris's Avatar
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      05-26-2012 10:24 PM #34






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    35. Member heerschap's Avatar
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      05-28-2012 10:57 AM #35
      Quote Originally Posted by Teh_Chris View Post
      What size metal are u using .... Im gona have to do a repair to my drivers side strut tower , floorboards ,and under my passenger side tail light



      Sent From Mah iPhone4 Using Teh Tapatalk B!tches
      I used 16 Gauge or 1/16" thick weldable sheet metal. I wouldnt bother cutting welding under tail light, unless its rotted right through. just clean it up with a wire brush slap some rust converter on it and bondo it. gl

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