Code cut key?

[Glumrug]

Is there any place I can get code cut keys for a Mk3?

I picked up 2 keys with the car, but they are heavily worn, so I would rather not have copies made based on them.

I tried the closest dealer, they basically said not our problem. Is this something the dealer can't do? Or is the local dealer just an ass?

Will any independent locksmiths be able to make a code cut key? I know they can for many unchipped domestic keys.

[cuppie]

Best people (IMHO) to deal with for that:
http://www.watercooledkey.com/

They punch to code (rather than copy-cut) keys.

[Glumrug]

Great! That looks like its just what I'm looking for.

[tolusina]

Pull a lock, trunk lid might be easiest, get the key number.
Take the car, keys, key number and proof of ownership of the car to a locksmith, leave happy.

[Glumrug]

Pull a lock, trunk lid might be easiest, get the key number.
Take the car, keys, key number and proof of ownership of the car to a locksmith, leave happy.

I'll try that too, I want to pull a lock to get the code anyway. The keys I have look bad enough that I wouldn't want anyone guessing off a picture.

It might end up being cheaper as well.

[CajunSpike]

I just had to do this for a 99 cabrio I acquired.
I had no key when I got hold of this car.

Pull the screw holding the drivers door handle on.
GENTLY pull the rear of the handle out the door.
DO NOT have to completely remove the handle, just pull it out enough
to be able to get to to the lock cylinder area.

Scrape off the crud on top the lock cylinder area.
You will see a 4 digit code stamped into the door handle.
DO NOT need to pull the cylinder out.

I was able to take that 4 digit code to a reputable local lock smith. They cut a perfect key
with no problems. Then took that key to walmart and got two more copies made of it for cheap.

Also, you didnt mention the year of your car. 95-99 cabrios don't have chipped keys.
2000 up DO.

Have to take that into account.


Take a minute to put the year/make of your car in your personal profile so you don't have to repeat it with every question.

[Glumrug]

Its a 98, filling out the profile right after this post. Don't need a chipped key, I'm sure if I did the dealer would have been eager to help me out, then they could charge me a small fortune for a key.

Yeah, got the code, but I think I knocked something loose. Must have pulled it out too far. Mine was really nasty. I had to pull it out far enough to sand it clean to see the numbers. The gaskets under the handle are just crumbling.

Now the Drivers door only unlocks itself, but still will work the windows. The passenger door still works normally, and will work all locks and windows.

I'm sure its something simple that I can figure out after work tomorrow. Looks like I'll have to take the panel off to get it back together right. I would appreciate any hints however :p.

*EDIT*

While we are on the subject of door handles, mine look like crap. Are the cylinders permanent or removable from the handle? I would love to just buy new handles and use my old cylinders.

[CajunSpike]

I'm still learning about mk3's. I know on the mk1's, you can simply remove a phillips screw and the entire lock cylinder slides out of the handle. I would assume the mk3's aren't much different.

[Glumrug]

Yeah, got the code, but I think I knocked something loose. Must have pulled it out too far.

Now the Drivers door only unlocks itself, but still will work the windows. The passenger door still works normally, and will work all locks and windows.

It fixed itself by the time I got up this morning. The circuit must be open somewhere. Considering the cars age I suspect its in the door jamb boot. Should be an easy fix is that is the case.

[YJSAABMAN]

MK3 handles are a bit of a PITA with how they engage everything. You have to wiggle them around the latch lever while also getting the lock paddle engaged. I've replaced a bunch and still fight with them sometimes.

And Cajunspike's method works fine, as long as no one has replaced the driver's door and handle on your car!

Why the dealer can't use the VIN and proof of ownership to get the code from VW and cut the key is beyond me. I did what Cajunspike said (per my local dealer) to get a key cut for my MK3 Golf and got a key that worked the driver's door only because of the above issue. I ended up getting a replacement ignition switch assembly for mine form the junkyard and swapping the whole thing in after 2 years of driving it with the lock cylinder and key from my '82 Cabby swapped into the '97 Golf. In the end I pulled all 3 door lock cylinders (driver, passenger, and hatch) and stuck the newly cut key in each one and none of them matched each other.

[Glumrug]

I'm getting really confused, everyone I've called about a key locally says its a special, high security, laser cut key. Its not.

As soon as they hear its a 98, they say that they can't help. Everyone insists (including 2 dealers) that I have a special key.

Its a standard blank that every hardware store around has. I just want one cut by code.

Looking at watercooled keys it looks like its an AH key. Should the car have had the HAA keys? They are listed as starting in 98. Did all 98s get the high security keys?

One place in particular got alot of referrals from the other locksmiths. I'll go there in person and have him look at my key. Maybe he can clear this up better.

[CajunSpike]

The guy who did my key, had a small machine lathe connected to a laptop.

He looked up the 4 digit code to figure out the cuts to make..but was confused because the code I gave him was too short.

He asked another tech why the code was only 4 digits, because they usually cut 8 digits. The other tech said vw just says to duplicate the 4 digits so you get 8 digits to cut the key.

So a key with a 1234 code..would actually be cut as a key with the code 12341234

The key blank they used for my 99 is the typical, edge cut key blank. I had a hard time convincing them I didn't need an immobilizer key.