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    Thread: MKVI Golf R Haldex fluid screw up

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      05-07-2012 01:28 AM #1
      I accidentally added gear oil to my haldex portion of my rear diff today. I'm letting it drain overnight and filling it with haldex fluid tomorrow but my question is do I need to remove the haldex controller to get the remaining gear oil out or can I just open the drain hole and let it flow out?
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    2. 05-07-2012 01:44 AM #2
      idk about the controller, but a good and easy way to clear the Haldex is to run a fill of ATF thru it, then drain. Best fluid would be Dexron VI, or just a good Dex III. Skip the friction-modified ATFs, like ATF+4, Universals, HiMiles, etc. Dex is nice and grippy for the clutchpacks, to compensate for the slick Gear Oil (GL-5) that's in there.

      fwiw, if you were just flushing an overdue Haldex or for some reason needed a replacement fluid in an emergency, a "Universal" or "Multi" ATF has special friction additives which react "properly" to the clutch material they are exposed to.

      Whatever you do, imo that GL-5 has to get out, and ATF is the most cost-effective way to do it.

    3. 05-07-2012 12:25 PM #3
      Let me be more clear, you don't just want to drain the gear oil out of the case, you want to physically scrub the GL-5 friction modifiers OUT of your clutchpacks. The only way to do this is a flush. Good luck buddy.

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      05-08-2012 06:14 PM #4
      Quote Originally Posted by Apexxx View Post
      Let me be more clear, you don't just want to drain the gear oil out of the case, you want to physically scrub the GL-5 friction modifiers OUT of your clutchpacks. The only way to do this is a flush. Good luck buddy.
      Can I fill it back up with haldex and once it has soaked in can I flush it and refill it with the haldex again?
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    5. 05-08-2012 08:41 PM #5
      Sure, if you want to spend a few bucks more and use Haldex fluid twice. I would drive it a good 10mi to warm up and then dump it. I just don't think you should drive more than 100 miles or so on the mixed GL-5 & Haldex fluid.

      You'd def be ok flushing it w/Dexron, using Haldex and then waiting till a reasonable service interval to change it again, say 20-25k.

      Admittedly, this is mostly opinion, but based on a solid knowledge base.

    6. 05-12-2012 12:59 AM #6
      Do you have a specific concern or question?

    7. 05-13-2012 03:02 AM #7
      That's a "no" then.

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      05-13-2012 03:43 PM #8
      I filled it back up with Haldex on Tuesday and let it warm up then did another flush and refill. So far there doesn't seem to be any issues. I've been listeing for whining and binding but haven't heard anything yet. I also filled the correct portion of the differential with royal purple 75-90 gear oil. Yes, the rear portion of the rear differential this time. I have been working with Greg from the shop AutoFirme in New York and he has been a great help.
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      05-13-2012 07:46 PM #9
      How about you stop bickering and getting all butthurt like little ****ing kids on my thread
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    10. Member Jay-Bee's Avatar
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      05-13-2012 08:12 PM #10
      Do you really have enough miles on your R that you need to be messing with diff fluids already???

      Quote Originally Posted by Fritz27 View Post
      I read this in Samuel L. Jackson's voice to make it more interesting. That's all I got.
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    11. 05-14-2012 05:52 PM #11
      As a data point, some OEs spec a single change of MTF at 6k, then no more.

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      05-16-2012 06:10 PM #12
      Quote Originally Posted by Jay-Bee View Post
      Do you really have enough miles on your R that you need to be messing with diff fluids already???

      Do you really have enough space time to be asking questions about what I'm doing to MY car?
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    13. 05-19-2012 11:32 AM #13
      It's a valid question. Most people here are operating on a pretty basic level and cannot participate w/o dead-end questions as a substitute for in-depth analysis.

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      05-19-2012 05:49 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by Apexxx View Post
      It's a valid question. Most people here are operating on a pretty basic level and cannot participate w/o dead-end questions as a substitute for in-depth analysis.
      between your ears. cut and paste the same charts over and over to show your suposed superiority. as i've said before your long strand polymeres are way short and your surface tension is very week.

    15. 05-21-2012 02:13 PM #15
      "Week", indeed.

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      05-22-2012 02:59 AM #16
      I changed the fluid because I wanted to be running a superior fluid compared to what was put in from the factory. That being said when I drained the factory gear oil with under 2k on the odo it already smelled burnt but obviously there was no color change since it was hardly used but just based on the smell of the gear oil you can often tell how hard it is being worked and how well it is holding up to the stress inside the diff itself.
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      05-22-2012 08:02 AM #17
      I don't even come into this forum, but man this thread made it worth it..

      Please, continue...
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    18. Member Dave926's Avatar
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      05-22-2012 11:49 AM #18
      Quote Originally Posted by sicgolfrowner View Post
      I changed the fluid because I wanted to be running a superior fluid compared to what was put in from the factory. That being said when I drained the factory gear oil with under 2k on the odo it already smelled burnt but obviously there was no color change since it was hardly used but just based on the smell of the gear oil you can often tell how hard it is being worked and how well it is holding up to the stress inside the diff itself.

      You really think that an aftermarket company has better fluids than what a huge team of engineers at Vw determined?

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      05-22-2012 12:21 PM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by Dave926 View Post
      You really think that an aftermarket company has better fluids than what a huge team of engineers at Vw determined?
      they have specs for a reason. they warranty the product, can't be any simpler than that. lot's of geniuses here that got passed by in real life.

    20. 05-22-2012 01:18 PM #20
      There's a
      vw branded fluid and there is the retail equivalent. I'd use either.


      Not knowing the specs for Haldex means idk what the OP is referring to, but I don't blame him for changing it early.


      iirc, I changed my Acura MTL at 2500 miles, my wife's Astra at 5000 and mine around 4k.


      I would like to know more about the Haldex fluid and substitutes, if anyone has info.

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      05-22-2012 01:37 PM #21
      Quote Originally Posted by gmikel View Post
      they have specs for a reason. they warranty the product, can't be any simpler than that. lot's of geniuses here that got passed by in real life.
      Have you ever considered that a car company wants to make lots of cash and sometimes skimps on the R&D and the fact that they have a warranty is to cover their shoddy workmanship? Just another angle to think from. I'm pretty sure the guys at royal purple have done their fare share of R&D, independent testing ect. Race teams don't look to VW to engineer fluids brohan, they look to companies like lucas oil and royal purple. Knowledgecate yourself
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    22. Senior Member 87vr6's Avatar
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      05-22-2012 05:17 PM #22
      Quote Originally Posted by sicgolfrowner View Post
      Knowledgecate yourself
      Maybe you should have followed your own advice when it comes to putting the right fluid in the right place.... BAM.
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    23. 05-22-2012 05:25 PM #23
      "Lucas R&D? Seriously?



      Where did that idea come from? From what Ive seen, Lucas is nothing more than greasy slop in an $8 bottle. It actually dilutes good oil. lmk what performance sequences or OE fills they have.

      Royal Purple is the pretty-boy Kool-Aid of automotive fluids.

      No offense, but your assumptions are all wrong.

      OE specs have their place, but oddball products are no substitute. Amsoil and Redline are the exceptions, by far, but they simply don't advertize to 20-somethings.

    24. 05-22-2012 05:30 PM #24
      Wait, don't tell me you were putting RP in a Haldex?!

      Dude, please stop.

      Look this site over...

      http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-680-car-...ification.aspx


      and this one...

      http://sas-origin.onstreammedia.com/.../pc/index.html

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      05-22-2012 07:06 PM #25
      Quote Originally Posted by sicgolfrowner View Post
      Have you ever considered that a car company wants to make lots of cash and sometimes skimps on the R&D and the fact that they have a warranty is to cover their shoddy workmanship? Just another angle to think from. I'm pretty sure the guys at royal purple have done their fare share of R&D, independent testing ect. Race teams don't look to VW to engineer fluids brohan, they look to companies like lucas oil and royal purple. Knowledgecate yourself
      That's why their fluids meet Vw 5xx specs right? What would have been better would be to send a sample out for analysis, retest with that newer **** and go from there.

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