juice gremlin

[userpike]

ok, just got the HEX+CAN dongle. After using VCDS for about 10- 15min (full scan and clear codes out of controllers and looked at a few measuring blocks) I pulled it off my car and then shortly after, I had to jumpstart my car. I didn't have the radio or blower fan or lights on.

I know its recommended that I have a battery charger on the car if the engine isn't running while I'm playing around but damn! 15min??? Is this normal??

If not, any ideas what to check? Weak battery maybe?

[Theresias]

With a weak battery and probably radio playing I am not surprised. What you can do though is shut off non-essential systems while you are working (radio, fans, seat heating, window heating) - but then again there is a reason why we recommend a battery charger for work longer than 10-15 minutes - looks like you were just on that boundary...

[Jack@European Parts]

Just replace the battery, its due.

It should of lasted longer then 15 minutes with just the radio and ignition.

[userpike]

Just replace the battery, its due.

It should of lasted longer then 15 minutes with just the radio and ignition.

weak battery: confirmed.

[Jack@European Parts]

Bang Bang!

Verify the alternator isn't roasting the new one with an overcharge condition, or poor B+ 30 to main Alt connection to fuse box.

Do an extra look over visual.

Warning!
A bad ground can also induce this if the condition is present.

[userpike]

Bang Bang!

Verify the alternator isn't roasting the new one with an overcharge condition, or poor B+ 30 to main Alt connection to fuse box.

Do an extra look over visual.

Warning!
A bad ground can also induce this if the condition is present.

I took the batt back to where I bought it. It turns out it was 3 years old and should have been producing 750 cold amps but testing showed it was only producing 527 cold amps. They prorated so I paid 66 bucks for the new one.

I checked for loose wires and found everything I checked tight and uncorroded except for a lil bit on the +B terminal connector.

As far as the alternator, I replaced it with a 140 amp model years ago. Today I checked the voltage at the battery while the engine was idling and while the engine was revved up past 3000 rpms and the meter never showed anything higher than 13.97 volts and nothing lower then 12.64 volts. No crazy spikes in voltage either. I revved it up to check because I have underdrive pulleys and thought maybe the voltage regulator could be faulty. I'm pretty sure the alternator is OK.

Thanks for the hints. I'mna try to post the vids I have of the ABS doin its stupid thing tonight. Maybe you could check them out. I'm pretty sure replacement is necessary.

[Jack@European Parts]

Check the B+ connection also at the alternator itself.

Log the voltage data during a road test and also look for visual flickers to indicate a flaky regulator.

Just because you replaced it with a larger unit or even a standard 140 AMP doesn't mean anything.