Need help with offsets? See and post here a.k.a the fitment thread

[E CODE]

So, there seem to be a thread a week on what offsets work on our cars.... and instead of answering them all individually, I thought we should put together a thread where all of your questions could be answered. This first post will be split into two parts, the first part, will be a little background on offsets, how they relate to widths and fitment. The second part, is where you come in.

Part 1:

So, you want to get new wheels. The most important thing to know about fitting aftermarket wheels to your Passat, is thier width and Offset (sometimes shown as ET). Wheel diameter doesn't much affect the 'fitment' unless you are going to mount a large diameter, low offset wheel - more on that later).

The easiest way to think of offset is the amount of space between the 'center' of the wheels width, and the mounting pad of the wheel (where it mounts to your axle hub). The higher this number is, the further the mounting surface is, and the lower the number, the closer in. All Passats need POSITIVE offsets. A negative offset will not work - unless you are making some kind of frankenstien car.

Here is a good diagram of the 'offset'



It is very important to know that when you lower and offset, you push your wheels further out from the hub, and when you raise an offset you pull them in. So, by extension, adding a spacer or adapter will lower the offset of the wheel by the thickness of the spacer/adapter. So - an ET50 wheel becomes an ET30 wheel with a 20mm adapter (obviously the width stays the same).

Now, every wheel will have an offset, and a width. Cars generally like a specific offset range and width range. However, cars do not have a specific single offset. This is why, when you ask 'what offset do I need' - you will always be asked 'what width are your wheels?'.

Essentially, you can deviate from the stock width and offset as long as you take a change in offset with a change in width. For example, you can run a lower offset wheel, if you lower the width, and a higher offset wheel with a higher width. This can be done in moderation though, since you will eventually run out of room under a fender if you go to far one way or another.

I won't get into calculations, becasue you can use this tool here: http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp provided by 1010tires to compare the width and offset of one wheel to another. For a more complete set of measurements use this one here: http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php...&Submit=Submit It will tell you where the new inner position and outer position of the wheel will be compared to the wheel you started with.

For Passats, you want to shoot for something in the ET 20-40 range, and 7-9" width (as a guideline, you CAN go bigger if your offsets are perfect). However, before buying ANYTHING. Check below for example fitments, and if you can't find any, find something close, and use those specs as your 'current wheel' in the calculator above, and compare the results. Also - keep an eye out for differences between B5 and B5.5 cars. If you have a B5, use a B5 below to measure off of and if you have a B5.5.... you get the idea.... to account for any differences in fender flare

If you go with a wide wheel, and a high offset, you run the risk of it hitting your suspension compenents. If your wheel clears, you next need to worry about your tire clearing. For example, this is a 9.5 ET 35 wheel on the front of my car:



You can see it clears, only because I have a stretched tire. A standard tire would rub and not work.... I never drove like this though, it's just for example purposes. I can start another thread on stretching tires later...

Stock wheels. Here is a link to all of the stock 5x112 wheels from VW. You can use these specs to compare to your new wheels instead of using specs below:

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/w...base.htm#5x112

Part2:

If you have aftermarket, or even OEM wheel, please post up thier specs (diameter, width, and final offsets - if you are using adapter os spacers let us know that too). And post whether you are lowered and with what. Then, post good pics of your fitment so others can use those specs when looking at options for thier wheels.

Coles Notes: Post up your wheel specs and pictures.

Disclaimer: This is the internet, and I and everyone else in this thread will try our best to provide correct info, but at the end of the day, a test fit is ALWAYS the best option, and we are not responsible if you blow $3000 on wheels that don't fit.

[E CODE]

I'll go first:

Fronts: 19x8.5 ET 25 215/35/19 Kumho Ecsta Tires
Rears: 19x9.5 ET 35 235/35/19 Kumho Ecsta Tires, with a 3mm spacer (to clear coils, final ET 32)
Lowered on ST coilovers.





Personally, this look was absolutly perfect.

[DB_VW]

First, that trunk set up is ****ing wicked.


Second I'm looking at porche wheels here are the specs:

8.5 wide ET 50
10 wide ET 65.

[E CODE]

First, that trunk set up is ****ing wicked.


Second I'm looking at porche wheels here are the specs:

8.5 wide ET 50
10 wide ET 65.

Thanks.

Those can be adapted. 20-25mm adapters for the front, and maybe 35-40mm on the rear.

Those rears are going to be tricky though, depending on your suspension setup... my 9.5 ET35's rubbed on the spring without my little spacer.... so using my 9.5ET 32 (after spacer) if I were to run that wheel I'd need to get it down to ET 26 (means a fat 39mm adapter) and they'd poke 12mm more than my rears in those pics.

I would look for 4 8.5 ET 50's instead of a staggared set.... depends if you like poke.

[911_fan]

Two things...

First, I find this site best for figuring out off-sets and stretch...

http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php...&Submit=Submit

Second, there needs to be something spoken about the difference between the B5 and B5.5 arch widths. And by arch width, Im talking about how much wider the B5.5's are at the arch/flare.

From what I was told, the B5s have a narrower arch and the 'perfect' off-set thought process is different than that of the B5.5.

[DB_VW]

Thanks.

Those can be adapted. 20-25mm adapters for the front, and maybe 35-40mm on the rear.

Those rears are going to be tricky though, depending on your suspension setup... my 9.5 ET35's rubbed on the spring without my little spacer.... so using my 9.5ET 32 (after spacer) if I were to run that wheel I'd need to get it down to ET 26 (means a fat 39mm adapter) and they'd poke 12mm more than my rears in those pics.

I would look for 4 8.5 ET 50's instead of a staggared set.... depends if you like poke.

I def want some big o'l poke in the back. give it a rwd look, like yourself I'm also on ST coils (fwd set).

Thats just one option, I also have another set i just don't know the offset off hand

[DB_VW]

Two things...

First, I find this site best for figuring out off-sets and stretch...

http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php...&Submit=Submit

Second, there needs to be something spoken about the difference between the B5 and B5.5 arch widths. And by arch width, Im talking about how much wider the B5.5's are at the arch/flare.

From what I was told, the B5s have a narrower arch and the 'perfect' off-set thought process is different than that of the B5.5.

I'm also a b5.5.

[que22]

Ok pretty much this is what i have and what i want:
Wellington
Wheel Diameter: 15in
Wheel Lug Pattern: 5x112
Wheel width: 7in
Wheel offset: 37mm
Weight: 20lbs

Interlagos
Wheel Diameter: 17in
Wheel Lug Pattern: 5x112
Wheel Width: 7.5in
Wheel offset: 45mm
Weight: 22lbs

Based off the calculator this is what it told me:
inner clearance: 14mm LESS
outer clearance: RETRACT by 2mm

What do i need to do to make everything work for me???
Also i'm on stock suspension

[E CODE]

Two things...

First, I find this site best for figuring out off-sets and stretch...

http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php...&Submit=Submit

Second, there needs to be something spoken about the difference between the B5 and B5.5 arch widths. And by arch width, Im talking about how much wider the B5.5's are at the arch/flare.

From what I was told, the B5s have a narrower arch and the 'perfect' off-set thought process is different than that of the B5.5.

Absolutly something to add in once we get some more data. I will edit the first post to warn about these differences.

[E CODE]

Ok pretty much this is what i have and what i want:
Wellington
Wheel Diameter: 15in
Wheel Lug Pattern: 5x112
Wheel width: 7in
Wheel offset: 37mm
Weight: 20lbs

Interlagos
Wheel Diameter: 17in
Wheel Lug Pattern: 5x112
Wheel Width: 7.5in
Wheel offset: 45mm
Weight: 22lbs

Based off the calculator this is what it told me:
inner clearance: 14mm LESS
outer clearance: RETRACT by 2mm

What do i need to do to make everything work for me???
Also i'm on stock suspension

You will have plenty of room all around. If they are OEM Audi or VW wheels, you won't need anything as the hub bore will be the same, and they should take ball seat bolts like your stockers - however, I would double check that to be sure. But size/space wise you are perfectly fine.

[que22]

Thanks i appreciate it now i'm more confident in buying them

[smallcombo]

i would like to start by saying awesome thread
i like how the b5.5 loos with the 9.5 rear

im thinking about geting these wheels
http://www.tsw.com/alloy_wheels_zolder_5.php
18x8 front
18x9.5 rear

maining wanting the stag cause the 9.5 have a bigger lip on them
i dont have the info on of set for the rims , but if i base it off the b5.5 on the top post i should be good with a 32 et ? or could i took them in more ? any info would help, i dont want crazy poke .and if thse will fit what tire size would work the best .?

btw b5 fwd sedan 2001

thanks all, p.s. i want the gold ones some tire sites still have them

[E CODE]

I had ZERO room next to the rim on my 4mo - but that was likely due to my aftermarket coilovers. I never fitted my 9.5 ET 32's to my stock setup, but I imagine you don't have a lot of inner clearance. Find someone with a different suspension setup and 10's on the rear to compare to for the best info..

[DB_VW]

ALRIGHT! Here is what I got, fwd 1.8t

I'm rockin 18x8 rims, ET 3/8 (its whats written on the inside of the wheel), so converting that would be ET 10mm Right? I'm not sure.


Anyway, what do I need to run to be hella flush?

Also running ST coilovers.

Thanks!

[DB_VW]

BUMP for help

[fritzmk3]

I'm sorry man but if your ET is really 3/8" (9.5mm) theres absolutely no way you'll be hella flush without widening/pulling your quarter panels. Right now I'm running 7.5 ET35 and in the front I have maybe 10-15mm left to be exactly lined up to the quarter panels (and I'm very much in doubt that it's really that much). The rear might still have 20-25mm left to get there. Now I know the B5.5's don't have exactly the same offsets as the B5's but at that low of an offset with that wide a wheel you'd have at least 30mm more poking than I do which is goin to be very much in the poke territory.

[honda2vw03]

17x7 with an ET 40. they sit inside the well about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. i got 10mm spacers but havent got the studs to get the spacers on yet. the wheels i have only came in ET 40-45 so got them close to stock which is ET37 on an 03 passat. im hoping that with the spacers on they will sit flush and not out. i will post a pic when i can get the right angle and lighting.

[DB_VW]

I'm sorry man but if your ET is really 3/8" (9.5mm) theres absolutely no way you'll be hella flush without widening/pulling your quarter panels. Right now I'm running 7.5 ET35 and in the front I have maybe 10-15mm left to be exactly lined up to the quarter panels (and I'm very much in doubt that it's really that much). The rear might still have 20-25mm left to get there. Now I know the B5.5's don't have exactly the same offsets as the B5's but at that low of an offset with that wide a wheel you'd have at least 30mm more poking than I do which is goin to be very much in the poke territory.

I don't understand how I wouldnt be flush? And i thought b5.5's came pre-rolled in the back anyway?

How would I have 30 mm more poke? Why wouldn't I just run smaller spacers to cancel that out?

I'm not trying to be a dick about this, I truely don't understand. Me and my friend are going to do it the o'l fashioned way and take a plumb bob and messure out the distance between the lip of my rim and the INSIDE of where my fender is. To try and get an accurate measurement.

I would still like someone (hint hint nudge nudge ecode), to calculate it out properly, so I have something to compare our measurements with.

Considering you can get spacers custom made, being hella flush shouldn't be that much of a chore.

[fritzmk3]

DB_VW
I don't understand how I wouldnt be flush? And i thought b5.5's came pre-rolled in the back anyway?

How would I have 30 mm more poke? Why wouldn't I just run smaller spacers to cancel that out?

I'm not trying to be a dick about this, I truely don't understand. Me and my friend are going to do it the o'l fashioned way and take a plumb bob and messure out the distance between the lip of my rim and the INSIDE of where my fender is. To try and get an accurate measurement.

I would still like someone (hint hint nudge nudge ecode), to calculate it out properly, so I have something to compare our measurements with.

Considering you can get spacers custom made, being hella flush shouldn't be that much of a chore.

The thing is my wheels are 7.5" wide with ET35, which means the mounting surface on the inside of the wheel is offset 35mm from the center of the wheel (as pictured above)

-- So we get 7.5" * 25.4mm/1" = 190.5mm (width of my wheels)
-- But since the offset is from the center of the wheel I have 190.5mm/2 = 90.25mm sticking out with an offset of 0mm
-- Now considering my actual offset 90.25mm - 35mm = 60.25mm of wheel space sticking out past the mounting surface

Now for your wheels you have 8" wide with ET10

-- 8" * 25.4mm/1" = 203.2mm (width of your wheels)
-- 203.2mm/2 = 101.6mm sticking out from the mounting surface with offset of 0mm
-- Considering your actual offset 101.6mm - 10mm = 91.6mm which is a little above 30mm further out than my wheels.

Now this doesn't mean you would poke out by 30mm past your fenders because the B5.5 is different and won't have the same stock offset position as the B5 I have but you'll still be poking a bit.

Now if you take ECODE's fitment as reference, even though his wheels are wider than yours up front by 0.5", his offset is higher than yours by 15mm which means overall your wheels will stick out by around 2-3mm futher than his (he isn't running any spacers up front - neither am I) now in the rear his wheels will stick out by 16mm more than yours (assuming you don't put any spacers on)

Actually now that I got this far and took a look at ECODE's fitment compared to yours its pretty much the same except up front you'd be 2-3mm out and youd need 15-17mm spacers out back to be about where he is... so I guess you would end up being pretty much flush... MY BAD (please accept my humble apologies my fellow vortexer and VAGer)

[DB_VW]

The thing is my wheels are 7.5" wide with ET35, which means the mounting surface on the inside of the wheel is offset 35mm from the center of the wheel (as pictured above)

-- So we get 7.5" * 25.4mm/1" = 190.5mm (width of my wheels)
-- But since the offset is from the center of the wheel I have 190.5mm/2 = 90.25mm sticking out with an offset of 0mm
-- Now considering my actual offset 90.25mm - 35mm = 60.25mm of wheel space sticking out past the mounting surface

Now for your wheels you have 8" wide with ET10

-- 8" * 25.4mm/1" = 203.2mm (width of your wheels)
-- 203.2mm/2 = 101.6mm sticking out from the mounting surface with offset of 0mm
-- Considering your actual offset 101.6mm - 10mm = 91.6mm which is a little above 30mm further out than my wheels.

Now this doesn't mean you would poke out by 30mm past your fenders because the B5.5 is different and won't have the same stock offset position as the B5 I have but you'll still be poking a bit.

Now if you take ECODE's fitment as reference, even though his wheels are wider than yours up front by 0.5", his offset is higher than yours by 15mm which means overall your wheels will stick out by around 2-3mm futher than his (he isn't running any spacers up front - neither am I) now in the rear his wheels will stick out by 16mm more than yours (assuming you don't put any spacers on)

Actually now that I got this far and took a look at ECODE's fitment compared to yours its pretty much the same except up front you'd be 2-3mm out and youd need 15-17mm spacers out back to be about where he is... so I guess you would end up being pretty much flush... MY BAD (please accept my humble apologies my fellow vortexer and VAGer)

Hey man, no worries I appreciate the help, it makes much more sense now. But for some reason 2-3mm spacers just seem too small to make a difference up front. I was assuming (yes i know key word "assuming") that i would need roughly 10 in the front, and about 20 in the back.

my tires are currently off the rims, so i'll be doing a test fit with the plumb bob as i mentioned to try and get an accurate measurement. I mean if it works out that i need 17-18mm in the back I'll round up and get 20 mm spacers, as I have a friend with a fender roller (That however is a last resort, I don't want to have to roll my fenders unless absolutely needed).

I'm not expecting to be perfectly flush, as I know that takes quite a bit of work, and a hella stretched tire and some serious low (lower than my ST coils can go in the back). I just don't like wheel cap

[niterider03]

Im purchasing some 18x8 +40mm offset BBS CH reps, the will they fit website is kinda making me question if they will fit.

[E CODE]

17x7 with an ET 40. they sit inside the well about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. i got 10mm spacers but havent got the studs to get the spacers on yet. the wheels i have only came in ET 40-45 so got them close to stock which is ET37 on an 03 passat. im hoping that with the spacers on they will sit flush and not out. i will post a pic when i can get the right angle and lighting.

Sounds good! 8-10mm spacer would put you back to OEM ET, but with a skinny rim like that, a little more would be fine too.

ALRIGHT! Here is what I got, fwd 1.8t

I'm rockin 18x8 rims, ET 3/8 (its whats written on the inside of the wheel), so converting that would be ET 10mm Right? I'm not sure.


Anyway, what do I need to run to be hella flush?

Also running ST coilovers.

Thanks!

You are lucky they are only 8" wide. If the offset is really around 10mm, you'll have 9mm more poke than my car above on the front, and 3mm more in the front. In my opinion, thats too much front poke.

However, you really should get out the old tape measure and actually measure the offset - like shown here: https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html

Im purchasing some 18x8 +40mm offset BBS CH reps, the will they fit website is kinda making me question if they will fit.

Should be perfectly fine.

[DB_VW]

I've been running the 18 by 8's for a while with the 3/8 offset or 9.5mm. They fit fine, no rub anywhere etc without spacers.


I'll be going out and taking exact measurements later.

I'm just looking for a "educated guess" on what spacers I should be running in the front/back to make it "almost" flush (as close as possible) to compare my results so I can get these spacers ordered!!!

[bnortron113]

I was thinking of picking up a set of Miro 111's this summer for my car. Fronts are 18x8.5 with an offset of +35, and 9.5 rears with a choice of either +40 or 45. Would you know what rear offset is better and possibly spacers? Thanks

[E CODE]

I've been running the 18 by 8's for a while with the 3/8 offset or 9.5mm. They fit fine, no rub anywhere etc without spacers.


I'll be going out and taking exact measurements later.

I'm just looking for a "educated guess" on what spacers I should be running in the front/back to make it "almost" flush (as close as possible) to compare my results so I can get these spacers ordered!!!

Without an actual ET, no amount of posting here will help. If it IS ET 10, you are already poking out front, so I highly doubt they are ET 10. Measure and report back.

I was thinking of picking up a set of Miro 111's this summer for my car. Fronts are 18x8.5 with an offset of +35, and 9.5 rears with a choice of either +40 or 45. Would you know what rear offset is better and possibly spacers? Thanks

If you want my fitment above (same width wheels front and rear), a 10mm spacer on the front, and ET 40 with a 5mm spacer, or ET 45 with a 10mm spacer. I'd buy the rear in ET 40, toss them on and space from there - since your suspension choice will influence the amount of spacing you ultimatly need.

[DB_VW]

I read the link you showed me, but still uncertain on to properly measure my offset.

-maybe I'm just having a slow day.

[E CODE]

It's a little funky, due to the bead seat/lip etc.... but basically - lay your wheel face down. Put a large flat ruler or level across the diameter of the wheel. Drop another ruler or tape measure down from that level to the mounting surface of the wheel. Record that measurement.

Then, drop the ruler ot tape measure from the same point, through the mounting hole, to the floor. Record that measurement.

Then subtract the second from the first. Thats basically it. It might be a little off due to the size of the bead seat, but thats a pretty good estimate.

[E CODE]

I've been running the 18 by 8's for a while with the 3/8 offset or 9.5mm. They fit fine, no rub anywhere etc without spacers.

After thinking this over - I'm convinced that your offset isn't 3/8" it's 38mm.

That would make them roughly 20mm away from flush.

Thats my guess at least.

[DB_VW]

That doesn't make sense. I did it from the ruler to the mounting surface it was 6 inches. Then did it from the same spot to the floor it was 9 inches. That leaves 3 inch offset or 76.2 mm

[E CODE]

That doesn't make sense. I did it from the ruler to the mounting surface it was 6 inches. Then did it from the same spot to the floor it was 9 inches. That leaves 3 inch offset or 76.2 mm

You need to measure the offset from center. What you measured was backspacing.... So, you actually take half of the 9 inches from the 6 inches. So 6" - 4.5" = 1.5" = 38mm

So yes, it appears that I am correct.

EDIT:

And also - if you use this chart, look at an 8" wheel, and backspacing of 3.25", that gives you 32mm. Remove another .25", and it would likely give you the extra 6mm...

[E CODE]

I think I figured it out. I'm suppose to divide the 9 by 2. So that leaves me at 4.5 inches minus 3 = 1.5 inches x25.4 = 38.1mm. But wait I divided both the 6 and 9 by 2 to get that. **** idk

See my post above....

[DB_VW]

I found a wicked deal on 23mm spacers that a friend of a friend has, with extended bolts. Could I run these in the rear?


Also still need to know what to do about the fronts (car is in shop and i want to order these asap!)


Thanks for the time an patience

[E CODE]

A total guess, considering I'm still not 100% sure what offset we are working with.... would be 20mm on the front, and 25mm on the front - assuming you want it flush like my wagon was...

[DB_VW]

A total guess, considering I'm still not 100% sure what offset we are working with.... would be 20mm on the front, and 25mm on the front - assuming you want it flush like my wagon was...

I checked your measurements, and what I had and I -believe- you were correct in your assumption that it is indeed 38. Although there is a distinct "/" between the 3 and the 8 on all rims. I think thats just how company wanted it.

I think its a little more then a coinsidence that it would work out to be "38.1"mm.

And 20mm on the front and 25 on the back?

[E CODE]

I checked your measurements, and what I had and I -believe- you were correct in your assumption that it is indeed 38. Although there is a distinct "/" between the 3 and the 8 on all rims. I think thats just how company wanted it.

I think its a little more then a coinsidence that it would work out to be "38.1"mm.

And 20mm on the front and 25 on the back?

Yeah, sorry, 25mm on the back - but thats comparing it to my car. B5 and B5.5, sedan and wagon fenders could all be different from the factory, and could have variation car to car does to age, accidents ect. So I'd still measure just to be safe....

Also, you probably need longer bolts with the right bolt seat - i.e conical. And make sure the spacers are hubcentric, and have a lip so you can put a hubcentric ring on it.