I am going to have to replace the timing belt in my 1989 Golf, but I find that the link to the DIY here is not working. Does anyone have a link to a DIY that I could use?
You might as well renew the idler, timing belt, seals and V-belts while you are doing the job. There are three front seals one for the camshaft, one for the intermediate shaft and one for the crank shaft. IIRC they are all the same PN. If you do the cam you will want to renew the cylinder head cover gasket too. FR
I have a Bentley in the mail right now, so I'll have proper instructions on how to do it.
Is there a particular trick to getting those old seals out?
I'd hate to damage anything trying to remove them.
Of course, with my luck, it'll be a head gasket leaking and I'll be forced to do that job too, LOL!
"i got a haynes/chilton manual, i dont need an expensive bentley!"
open your eyes, a haynes/chilton for a VW is like letting a blind/deaf guy fix your noisy lifters!
most of the time tho, people get PISSED when you tell them to get a bentley.. but, the bentley is the FACTORY service manual. it is the most IN DEPTH manual available for these cars..
it really is worth the money, to have one.. they are PRICELESS if you work on your car much!
The seal for the crank is pressed into a removable carrier. It's possible that the carrier seal (paper cutout) is leaking as well. AutohausAZ sells that as well. You'd need to remove the carrier bolts as well as a few oil pan bolts. Do be extremely careful, since the carrier is aluminum. The ****ing thing strips so easily. I put together a motor just to strip one of the rear carrier threads right before it had to go in the car. Needless to say, it leaks.
Removing the carrier makes changing that seal a lot easier (assuming you don't have a nice tool to pull it otherwise).
I really suck at smog.
I have had 3 beetles, a Karmann Ghia and a1985 golf diesel. Ive had a Bentley for all of them. Its the only useful manual for a VW with he possible exception of Wilson's masterwork on rebuilding aircooled engines and Muir's book for some good quick repairs.
What I fear is that I don't have all the tools I need. Looks like there is some kind of claw tool for doing the timing belt tensioner. I guess there is some kind of hook to get those seals out.
Yes some repairs require special tools. Some say you “should use” special tool # this or that to do the work, but often just a little thinking can get the job done. Special tools are sometimes just an easy way around the task at hand, often requested from mechanics to tool companies and then later sold to the general public. In the case of doing a timing belt, that spanner is nice but you can work around it, like bending and using a common diner fork. A timing belt can be done with what one would call common tools or a general tool box assortment. Seals can be popped out without a seal puller and installed with a soft touch and a hammer.
There is no arguements that the Robert Bentley repair manual is a very good book and maybe worth the price. I have always thought it was priced a little too high. But also lets get something straight while the box has already been opened. You do not have to have a Bentley if you are at least a little mechanically inclined. The Bentley is not a factory manual. Yes some VW dealers are allowed, either by VW or by Robert Bentley Publiching, to sell them, but they are not what the mechanics use to repair VW cars. Quote from the “Bible” itself: “Volkswagen has not reviewed and does not vouch for the accuracy of the technical specifications and procedures described in this manual”. I do suggest to people to buy a “good” repair manual, but it does not have to be a Bentley anymore than you have to purchase a Porsche to own a car that gets you from point A to point B.
the first time i ever did a VW timing belt, was on a diesel, and it was EASY, so i didnt even use a manual when i did my first gasser timing belt..
For what it's worth, I've used bent needle nose pliers to tighten the tensioner, but really, using any tool seems to make the belt too tight. The past few 8v's I've done, I've always just used my hand to pull it tight and tighten it up. Even then, I've had the belt on too tight before.
I really suck at smog.
For what it's worth, I always planned to get a Bentley manual. In fact, it arrived yesterday.
I only asked for the DIY, because I thought that some kind soul had taken the time while doing the procedure to provide detailed pictures of the area. When I was working on my old BMW e28 there were some really good DIYs that they had made for doing important stuff like the timing belt. That's the only reason I asked. Not to be lazy or complain or anything like that. I'm just a bit anal about things as important as the timing belt, and sometimes the pictures in Bentley are a bit technical and don't give you the actual "viewpoint" of the amateur mechanic.
Best case scenario, my oil leak is one of the three "seals" and I don't have to start taking housings and oil pans off....because that is a situation I don't want to be in....wife breathing down my neck to get the car out of the garage, etc.
Last edited by Glegor; 05-16-2012 at 02:49 PM.
I just got through changing my head gasket. Old timing belt back on, old tensioner back on...
Damn she runs good, but with a strange whine, like a pump or something, but new...
30 minutes later she pops the timing belt.
Pulled her home and figured out A) The tensioner was less than stellar. B) The belt will install and the engine will run fine if you tighen the tensioner CCW. However, if you rotate the thing CCW far enough in order to install the shroud (withOUT carving on it with a pocket knife ) you have almost certainly tightened the belt much too much.
I installed a new tensioner (with CW install) and she's a happy car!
Just use some same diameter nails as the holes in the tensioner, use a box 10mm wrench (thumb to fingertip length) to adjust and tighten, all while holding the 15mm (or 17mm) wrench on the almost tight nut to tighten.
Bentley says 33 ft lbs torque on the nut (if memory serves...)
8V belt can be twisted along the long length at most 90 deg, so not so terribly tight.
My baby's running like a dream now.
Now I just have to get my exahust doughut changed, or sealed, or ssssssssomething....
Oh, and he (threecaster) didn't get any advice from anyone as he just jumped in to tell a little story. His car is running fine he states and just shared what happened to him with everyone else. I'll share too I guess. Ever since owning my 88 GTi 16v (back in 87) I have used the little tool for tensioning the timing belt. Yep, you can crank on it too much, just like about everything that has to be tightened, but it does make life just a tiny bit eaiser. If you set the tension too tight you back it off a little until it stops whining, doesn't get much simplier really. I have and use the water pump pulley tool also and a crankshaft stop and piston ring pliers and shifter adjusting gauge and and and. Almost everything can be worked on without these tools if one cares to. The tool is not the problem if you make things too tight, it's the operator.