Exciter wire was split, fixing that now. But no light on dash. Pulled cluster, put good light bulb in. Will check that in a few minutes.
Would a long-term bad exciter wire give the voltage regulator issues?
#1
1998 AFNii German-market 110hp TDi.
Battery is no longer being charged by the car, or the charging is not occurring over a normal 20 minutes drive. Battery takes a charge from the charge-box just fine, car starts great on the charged battery, all is good there. I can get two starts per charge, assuming I don't run the lights at all.
Aside from chasing down an exciter wire issue and getting the alternator tested (FML, how do I do that in Germany?), is there anything else I should look for? I've got decent VW chops, but I'm a MkIII n00b.
A(u). Klasse A, unbeschrankt, ungedrosselt
Compared to a British roadster, all Volkswagens are reliable!
nevAr Lose - DE Minister of Foreign Affairs - IPROfftopikstan
#2
Exciter wire was split, fixing that now. But no light on dash. Pulled cluster, put good light bulb in. Will check that in a few minutes.
Would a long-term bad exciter wire give the voltage regulator issues?
A(u). Klasse A, unbeschrankt, ungedrosselt
Compared to a British roadster, all Volkswagens are reliable!
nevAr Lose - DE Minister of Foreign Affairs - IPROfftopikstan
#3
Ooooh, look at the pretty battery light!!! I can begin alternator diagnostics once I charge the stupid battery now.....![]()
A(u). Klasse A, unbeschrankt, ungedrosselt
Compared to a British roadster, all Volkswagens are reliable!
nevAr Lose - DE Minister of Foreign Affairs - IPROfftopikstan
#4
One way to test the alt, while the car is running, put a meter on the Barry posts (center of the post) and read the voltage. It should be around 13.5 - 14.5 volts.
Then start turning on all your lights and radio, the voltage should not drop.
Pro Patria
Making power, 4 valves at a time.
MkIII 16v Club.