issues after wheel bearing change

[shawnmf]

after i changed the wheel bearings and hubs the caliper bracket was gring a ring in the inside of the rim!!!????......something aint right can anyone give me an idea of ehat it could be i at a complete loss here!!

[germancarnut51]

Is that on both front wheels?

Can you tell if the wheel bearings that you replace were originals?

It sounds like the wheel hubs were pressed deeper onto the wheel bearings, than the wheel bearings that were removed.

Do the steering knuckles use retainer rings to limit how far in the bearings can be pressed, OR did they have a machined shoulder to limit travel? If the steering knuckles were designed for rings, and the rings were not installed before the bearings were installed, then the wheel bearings could have been installed too far in.

There's no way to fix this problem, except for adding spacers, changing wheels, OR removing and replacing the wheel bearings. You can't push the bearings ( even partially) out without damaging or destroying them.

[blaineevans]

Mk3 should have a shoulder.

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[Bryan7100]

It's prob the little metal shield inside the rotor had the same problem when I did my rotors jus look and bend it back if it's not strait

[shawnmf]

no deffinatly not the dust shield its a pretty severe grind it even has a drag on the engine like i had to give it more gas before letting like out the clutch!!! but no wobble in the bearing or nuthing that! i did swap rims and it seemed to help but still feels odd?? like there is excess drag on the bearing then before? idk i guess get new bearing and repress them...again!

[shawnmf]

oh and the bearings were the originals!!as far as i can tell

[Bryan7100]

Yea I didn't mess with my bearings did the back tho cuz their in the rotor and it was simple enough mayb their just too tight though

[emkaytree]

Agree, too tight or the slide pins/caliper seized on reinstall.

[germancarnut51]

oh and the bearings were the originals!!as far as i can tell

Are the backs of the wheel hubs dragging on the front face of the steering knuckles?

That would confirm that the wheel hubs were pressed to far in.

Did you press the bearings and wheel hubs yourself?

Did you support the inner bearing races after you pressed the bearings in, while you were pressing the wheel hubs in?

[shawnmf]

no the hub is not dragging on knuckle...the caliper BRACKET(what the caliper mounts to) not the caliper is dragging on the rotor(no drag from brakes) but the caliper BRACKET literally grooved a ring into my rims which were fine before the new parts!! i am completely baffled...i also changed the tie rods but i cant see that changing anything but the alignment!! anyone ever heard of this??

[Dan J Reed]

Wheel bearing is not pressed or set right.

[shawnmf]

really!!! i suspected that naturally but i couldnt rationalize it in my head how that would change the caliper bracket posistion?

[Dan J Reed]

really!!! i suspected that naturally but i couldnt rationalize it in my head how that would change the caliper bracket posistion?

It won't, but the rotor sits on the hub, which is pressed into the bearing... if its not fully seated, its going to push the rotor outwards into the bracket.

[shawnmf]

hmm...ok but the oddity is the caliper bracket rubbed(actually grooved a ring out of) the inside of my rims? very wierd but i mean its it the hub or the bearing cause thats all that changed

[germancarnut51]

It doesn't take much of a change to make parts rub sometimes. When I changed wheels recently, spacers were required because the new wheels had a offset that was about 3mm different from the old wheels. 3mm spacers would have give the wheel enough to clear, but ultimately I went with 5mm spacers to have some breathing room.

In my first post, I wrote that the wheel hubs were pressed in too far when they were installed on the new wheel bearings. Pressing the wheel hub too far would move the wheel mounting surface inward (away from the fixed position of the brake caliper carrier), resulting in the brake caliper carrier sticking out further (relative) from the mounting faces of the wheels. This is probably the cause of the brake carriers rubbing on the wheels now.

And like I wrote before, there is probably no way to cure this without replacing the wheel bearings again. You could try pushing the wheel bearing AND the wheel hub outward a touch (you would have to support the entire wheel bearing from outer shell to inner race with a plate, and move all of the bearing parts at the same time). This might work, or the wheel bearing might be damaged and require replacement in days or weeks, or months.

And like I wrote before, this was probably caused when the bearing retainer rings were not replaced at the right time, and whoever pressed the bearings in pressed too far.

[shawnmf]

correct me if im wrong but is there 2 differnet size abs tone rings for a 95 vr6??? my originalhubs that were worn down the abs ring is much shorter(closer to hub) and the new hubs that i got the abs ring was noticably further away from the hub!!! please let me know if there is two size hubs so i can order the right parts! ive been at this car for 3 weekends!

[germancarnut51]

correct me if im wrong but is there 2 differnet size abs tone rings for a 95 vr6??? my originalhubs that were worn down the abs ring is much shorter(closer to hub) and the new hubs that i got the abs ring was noticably further away from the hub!!! please let me know if there is two size hubs so i can order the right parts! ive been at this car for 3 weekends!

I don't have ABS on my MKIII, but generally (if you expect the ABS to work), the replacement parts are going to need to be the same as the original parts.

Whoever installed the wheel hubs should have caught the difference between the old parts, and the new parts, and questioned then. A comparison of the height of the new and old wheel hub would answer the question about if the new wheel hubs werer going to cause a problem (not the same height) that you are going to have to destroy the new wheel bearings to answer.

Sounds to me like your parts supplier, and/or parts installer owe you some new wheel bearings to go with the new wheel hubs that the parts supplier owes you.

[shawnmf]

well frankly i can care less about the abs...just want the car to drive again...so there is most likely two different hubs for a 95 vr6? i visually compared them and didnt notice a difference in the hubs but the abs ring was larger so i removed it before pressing now the car drives fine when the axle nut is not fully torqued to 195!! but obviously i cant drive it like that so im screwed lol!!! but back to my question is there two different 5 lug hubs for the mk3 vr6!

[shawnmf]

well i mean i guess there is! cause mine that fit is smaller then new parts...ne one ever hear of this

[germancarnut51]

Your supplier probably sent you the wrong parts. If you check parts catalogs, there is only one listing for each manufacturer for the MKIII VR6's wheel hub.

And driving without the axle nuts being fully torque will make a difference.

#1, it destroys the wheel bearings.

#2 when you fully torque the axle nuts it can change the distance between the wheel mounting surface, and the caliper carrier face. The distance may increase to the point where the caliper carrier again makes contact with the back of the wheel.

[Dan J Reed]

well frankly i can care less about the abs...just want the car to drive again...so there is most likely two different hubs for a 95 vr6? i visually compared them and didnt notice a difference in the hubs but the abs ring was larger so i removed it before pressing now the car drives fine when the axle nut is not fully torqued to 195!! but obviously i cant drive it like that so im screwed lol!!! but back to my question is there two different 5 lug hubs for the mk3 vr6!

?!

Where?

I only see ONE.

http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...ivetrain/242/5

[Dan J Reed]

And make sure you torque it correctly..

[shawnmf]

got it all fixed whent to yard and pulled 2 complete knuckles...the PO used diff. parts then should have been on there!!!