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    Thread: Timing help!...mk2 turbo diesel

    1. Member
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      05-13-2012 03:02 PM #1
      So..my tensioner was rattling around and I bought a replacement. Went in thinking I could easily swap it. Marked my timing belt and injector pump and zip tied it all into place. Went to take off my tensioner and my cam moved as well as my IP...

      Realized I F'ed up and forgot to turn my motor over to TDC and lock it into place. Dummy move...I know...

      I don't have the proper timing tools and am low on funds...so

      I feel as though I have two options...

      1) Turn my crank and cam over to TDC, making sure my marks are lined up while doing so hoping my injector is on mark

      2) Take is to a mechanic to do it properly


      any thoughts/help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

    2. Member Rockerchick's Avatar
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      05-13-2012 05:39 PM #2
      You NEED to lock everything down. You can use other things to lock them down, but everything needs to be locked down. Timing on these engines is critical.

      I know there is a certain sized socket you can use as the IP lock pin, but I can't recall the size. And to lock the cam, just find something the right size.
      Quote Originally Posted by TM87 View Post
      VW-making mechanics out of owners since 1957.
      The project - '84 Jetta 1.6TD, 190k, fully rebuilt, Giles IP and injectors, 2.5" custom exhaust, 51mpg
      Hers - '03 BMP 20thAE GTI, 138k, 3" 42DD turbo back, Unitronic Stage 2
      His - '01 Jetta TDI, 159k. Now has 3 pedals, as it should!

    3. Member jagerauto's Avatar
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      05-13-2012 11:38 PM #3
      yea use a socket that fits in the hole, then find a metal ruler or something. Without a gauge though your in trouble. Unless you hoping its not changed. There should be a timing mark on the backside of the injection pump pully. lines up with the mark on the IP mount.

      Get the crank to TDC, some have a dimple, mine had a "v" If it has a dimple then it might have both. Their right next to each other so if you dont see the dimple use the "v".

      Get the cam to TDC. the end of the cam has a notch on the end, it will be paralell with head. Make sure the first two cam lobes are pointing up (first two from the sprocket)

      Pull the timing belt up from the IP side over the IP first, then over the cam.

      With the IP and cam locked loosen the cam sprocket and turn the sprocket counter clockwise to take the slack out from between the IP and the Cam sprocket.

      Ensure you did not move the crank and tighten the tensioner. (i used something to jam in the flywheel to make the crank not spin because it did keep moving on me.)


      Whatever you do dont unbolt your IP pr you will need to re time that as well. if it does not run and everything is timed correct you need a gauge.
      I'm on here way too much

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      05-14-2012 01:57 AM #4
      Thanks for the info guys! Much appreciated!

      I'm going to give it a whirl and set everything to TDC tomorrow. I got a file that should work as a cam lock.

      Since my belt isn't tensioned, is it recommended that I turn the cam, and crank over simultaneously using socket/wrench?

    5. Member jagerauto's Avatar
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      05-14-2012 02:02 AM #5
      Quote Originally Posted by IfihadaDUBaday View Post
      Thanks for the info guys! Much appreciated!

      I'm going to give it a whirl and set everything to TDC tomorrow. I got a file that should work as a cam lock.

      Since my belt isn't tensioned, is it recommended that I turn the cam, and crank over simultaneously using socket/wrench?
      just do them individually. Figure a way to keep the crank from moving thats the biggest task as I remember..

      I will be doing mine on the engine stand, the whole thing. haha
      I'm on here way too much

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      05-14-2012 04:20 PM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by jagerauto View Post
      just do them individually. Figure a way to keep the crank from moving thats the biggest task as I remember..

      I will be doing mine on the engine stand, the whole thing. haha
      thanks Jager! you've been a huge help. Got another diesel project going? You had the 4dr turbo rabbit on diamond racing boys a while back right?

    7. Member jagerauto's Avatar
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      05-14-2012 10:55 PM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by IfihadaDUBaday View Post
      thanks Jager! you've been a huge help. Got another diesel project going? You had the 4dr turbo rabbit on diamond racing boys a while back right?
      yep, I'm just learning as well.. But I retain a lot. after doing it wrong it usually works that way

      Yea had the 4dr, it got wrecked(hit in a parking lot) while is was parked. Got a new one and doing a complete 1 week build lol. I was hoping for SOWO, but when your one guy and still have 8hrs of work to work around..

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Turbo-Diesel

      Putting the new engine on the stand in a few once I chomp my mcdonalds down. I'm hoping I can lift it out of the trunk into the garage.. I only weigh 140lbs and this thing prolly is about that
      I'm on here way too much

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      05-15-2012 03:08 AM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by jagerauto View Post
      yep, I'm just learning as well.. But I retain a lot. after doing it wrong it usually works that way

      Yea had the 4dr, it got wrecked(hit in a parking lot) while is was parked. Got a new one and doing a complete 1 week build lol. I was hoping for SOWO, but when your one guy and still have 8hrs of work to work around..

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Turbo-Diesel

      Putting the new engine on the stand in a few once I chomp my mcdonalds down. I'm hoping I can lift it out of the trunk into the garage.. I only weigh 140lbs and this thing prolly is about that
      Nice! It's looking good so far! I just had the exact same 4dr beige rabbit as my parts car for my other rabbit. Sold both..really regretting it. This jetta is not the same as my rabbit... The giles pump definitely makes up for it though lol

      So... I got everything to TDC, cept my damn crank won't stay in place. Tried jamming a screw driver, and even put her into gear and had a buddy step on the brakes..but to no avail. Crank kept moving. I'm going to try take a gamble and compensate for the movement..hopefully I'll get lucky...What'd you use to hold your crank in place?

    9. Member jagerauto's Avatar
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      05-15-2012 03:15 AM #9
      Quote Originally Posted by IfihadaDUBaday View Post
      Nice! It's looking good so far! I just had the exact same 4dr beige rabbit as my parts car for my other rabbit. Sold both..really regretting it. This jetta is not the same as my rabbit... The giles pump definitely makes up for it though lol

      So... I got everything to TDC, cept my damn crank won't stay in place. Tried jamming a screw driver, and even put her into gear and had a buddy step on the brakes..but to no avail. Crank kept moving. I'm going to try take a gamble and compensate for the movement..hopefully I'll get lucky...What'd you use to hold your crank in place?
      My buddy held a screw driver on the flywheel I think. while I wrapped the timing belt. Dont guestimate timing is key..

      Hey do you have a shift linkage bracket off a manual steering rack? I really need one.... Apparently they differ from power to manual..
      I'm on here way too much

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      05-16-2012 09:54 PM #10
      long story short if you are just talking about the physical install of the timing belt here is the way i do it now. you can deal with your ip timing later. only other big thing is the timing belt tension. these days i find myself using my left hand and pushing up on the tensioner before tightning. aiming so i can take my thumb and index finger and twist about 45 degrees without a ton of effort. at this point there isn't slack in the teeth, but you could move the belt a tad side to side with your hands. if you go so tight there is no slack i think its going to get tighter as the car heats up and damage parts. you don't want it so loose either that you can bend the belt 90 degrees between cam and ip pulleys as it will probably jump and hit the cover and/or jump a tooth on the belt.


      Now as far as the install you can use official tools or whatever to get the same thing done. Shim cam slot and use feeler gages on each side to fine tune so its stiff. even the official tool on every engine i have done could use them because i could rock the cam just a tad with a wrench at that point. i have used a door hinge before.

      on the ip lock tool its kind of there to line up the initial timing marks but also stops it from jumping around too much before the belt is on. even the official tool has enough slop to get a tooth off so pay attention. it will feel just right when you do it. i always have to rock the tool down to get the belt to move over one position towards back of engine. as long as the belt is one the crank and ip pulley at that time you can even move the lock tool but you can wait until you get the belt on.

      So with ip marks lined up, locked, and cam locked, crank at tdc your last step would be to have tensioner on car and make sure belt is on that and then have the cam pulley off the car. feed that onto the belt and guide it so it starts onto the cam and it will slide on without moving things. then hand snug the bolt so it can move.

      make sure ip lock is out, then tension, tighten tensioner, then move onto tightning cam. use a sprocket holder on pulley side so you don't snap the other end of the cam off and tighten the cam bolt to spec. seems everybody likes to turn the engine over by hand a few times then whack that cam bolt and tighten down just a tad bit more for good measure.

    11. Member Estacaco's Avatar
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      05-23-2012 01:25 AM #11
      Loosen the 19mm nut on the crank pulley and then give the pulley a slight tap from behind. It will not it loose but not off if you leave the nut on. That will let you put the belt on and spin/line everything else up while the cam stays at TDC. DO NOT FORGET TO TIGHTEN THAT 19mm NUT IF YOU LOOSEN IT!

      Or if that's what you're trying to do a large metal file will work, or a door hinge like said previously. You can also use a crescent wrench on your first lobe to help hold it in place while trying to loosen the nut.

      Last edited by Estacaco; 05-23-2012 at 01:30 AM.
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