did timing belt, still will not run

[my83rabbit]

ok, i have a 99 cabrio, 2.0, aba, auto, the car died and i checked the timing belt and it looked like it sliped a few teeth, so i get a new belt, tentioner ( changed out the new style tentioner with the old style). everything lines up perfect and still no start, i did change the distributor with a used one because the hall sensor was broken off. i am at wits end, heeeeeelp, thanks.

[911_fan]

it looked like it sliped a few teeth

Run a compression and a leak down test on all 4 cylinders. The compression test will tell you which cylinder has the valves you bent, and the leak down test is if the compression checks out, it will tell you if there is any pressure loss.

[my83rabbit]

i dont think that any thing got mess up, the belt did not snap, jusy jumped a few teeth. how can i check the ecu?

[911_fan]

Run a compression and a leak down test on all 4 cylinders. The compression test will tell you which cylinder has the valves you bent, and the leak down test is if the compression checks out, it will tell you if there is any pressure loss.

[sanjuanbum]

had a similar problem the crank timing belt sprocket had wallowed out the key way. check it and make sure its not moving.

[sanjuanbum]

and make sure you have spark

[germancarnut51]

You have the timing belt installed 180 degrees off.

You should have told me the timing belt stripped teeth and the belt jumped time when you were PMing me.

The engine turned more than you think it did. You might have bent valves now, and you should do a compression check to see if there was any damage.

The distributor and camshaft rotate at a different rate than the crankshaft. Crankshaft TDC mark points at #1 cylinder two times each complete engine cycle (one complete engine cycle takes two complete rotations of the crankshaft on a four cycle engine, intake, compression, power, exhaust). The flywheel marks points at #1 at the end of the compression cycle/stroke, AND at the end of the exhaust cycle/stroke. The distributor is installed with the rotor pointing at the wrong cylinder. You have the distributor installed so that the rotor is not pointing at #1 cylinder at the beginning of the power stroke.

To correct the timing problem.

Set the crankshaft at TDC on the crankshaft with the distributor rotor pointed opposite the #1 cylinder on the distributor cap. Remove the distributor. Verify that the slot in the shaft below the distributor is parallel to the engine block. Correct shaft slot position if not parallel to the engine block. Reinstall the distributor with the rotor properly indexed to the #1 cylinder mark on the edge of the distributor housing.


I've had to edit my post several times to try to word it corrrectly to make it technically correct, and to make it easier for you to understand.

[my83rabbit]

ok, i did a compression test, all cyl are at about 130lbs, just so i am clear, from the front of the car looking down, with the distributor off, looking at the slot, by parallel with the engine you mean left to right or up and down, thanks mike.

[germancarnut51]

ok, i did a compression test, all cyl are at about 130lbs, just so i am clear, from the front of the car looking down, with the distributor off, looking at the slot, by parallel with the engine you mean left to right or up and down, thanks mike.

Slot in shaft should appear left to right/side to side.

[my83rabbit]

thanks, will let you know how it works out.

[911_fan]

ok, i did a compression test, all cyl are at about 130lbs

Did you mean 130psi? If so, that's way below the lowest spec acceptable. Should be no less than 150psi on all cylinders. A typical 2.0 sits around 180psi.

[my83rabbit]

thanks so much for all the help, with a big thanks to germancarnut51. i had everything lined up correctly, the distributor too. i just did not put it all back together, like maf, and a few other things, the plugs look like crap, got some new plugs and put it all back together and it started up and runs perfect. thanks, mike.