Seems like quite a lot of work to change the oil.
Well, I had a friend who needed an oil change today, so I took some pictures and made a DIY guide for anyone else thinking of doing the same
Tools & Parts Needed
- 3/8, 1/2 ratchet
- 8mm, 10mm, 13mm (3/8 drive), 27mm (1/2 drive)
- flex joint (3/8 drive), various extensions (3/8 + 1/2 drive)
- new oil filter [will edit and drop in part numbers later]
- 4 quarts of 5w30 oil (synthetic or conventional, pick your poison)
- funnel for said oil
- trolley jack, jackstands.
- Open the hood, look down at the fancy engine cover. Pull it off. Just grab the edges and lift up, it pops off.
- We'll be removing the three bolts, circled in red here. Use the 8 mm socket. Note, for the one at the back, I used the flex joint to grab it.
- Undo the hose clamp here, again, 8mm socket. Remove said hose
- Pull out this bolt here. The air intake tube pops out with little force.
- Right beside the front right bolt there is a breather hose. Slide this off.
- The whole unit should be loose now, move it towards the front of the car. There is a heater hose held on the back. Remove it from the holders. Then remove the entire air box assembly.
- Now it's time to jack up the car! Some would have this as step 1, but it's much easier removing all the stuff up top with the car sitting not as high up I slide the trolley jack under the car, and mated it up against a big nut for the lower subframe. Once jacked up, I put jackstands at the appropriate spots as marked with an arrow on the sideskirts.
- OH NOES! A SKIDPLATE! Whip out the 10mm socket, and remove the 6 bolts holding the thin plastic plate off. There are tabs up front, so if you pull the rear 2 bolts off last, you'll get less dust and crap in your face. Put the skidplate aside with the other removed parts.
- Drain that oil! Grab the 13mm socket, and remove the drainplug. Position oil pan accordingly, prior to removal Remove the oil filler cap.
- Using the 27mm socket (1+1/16 works as well), remove the oil filter cap. It's hiding down in the passenger side, up front. It's a bit of a funny angle, so I find seating the socket up first, and then dropping the 1/2 ratchet on works best (you don't want to strip/ break that cap!) ALSO, now you see why we had to pull the entire airbox assembly out of the way ... for room!
- Remove oil filter. Try not to drip too much oil. Grab new filter. Remove oil O-ring. Install new O-ring, and filter. The old filter will pull out of the cap, you just need to tug a bit. New one will snap in and hold in the same way. Try and thread the filter by hand before you drop the socket on and start twisting. Again, this is because it's a bit of a funny angle. Don't want to crossthread cap!
- Reinstall drain plug. I do this after the filter, as more oil will sploosh out when you pull the filter out. Wipe drippage off of crossmember. Reinstall the skidplate at this point. Make the bolts snug, but don't use a whole ton of force ... they're just holding a light plastic plate on!
- Poor the OIL! She should take ~4 litres [will edit and confirm exact quantity]
- Reinstall air box assembly. Reverse of removal. Make the heater hose sit happy. Pop intake hoses on, do up hose clamp and nut. Slip breather hose back on. Tighten down the 3 8mm bolts. Reinstall engine cover. Cover pops on, you can see where the grommets/ mounts are here.
- Remove jackstands, lower her down.
- Fire it up While running, check for leaks from both the filter area and drain plug. If all is good, let it run for ~30 seconds, then turn it off.
- Check the oil level. If need be, top it off a wee bit.
- our female friend is now happy
Comments/ Questions are welcome. I'll try and edit this later and add a bit more useful information. Hopefully someone finds this helpful
Seems like a major PITA for an oil change.
Good work in the DIY and especially with the photos.
Couple constructive comments (purely of the armchair variety) -
1. The oil filter part number is clearly visible in more than one of your photos
2. Torque specs for the filter cap and drain plug would be helpful
3. Oil capacity and grade would be helpful (although the fill cap says what grade it use).
1995 VW Jetta GLX VR6 [07.2003 - 03.2012]
I've permanently removed my air box and engine cover to make room for my RRM intake... So it's easier for me
BUT it's a lease and has 36 months of included maintenance... So I plan to NEVER know what it's like.
2. Will post soon.
3. 4 quarts (3.8L) of 5w30 is what is called for. I found it took just shy of 4L to be right at the top of the dipstick.
Stop acting like this is the most absurd thing ever, I'm sure you can do it without having to take so much apart, or moving different pieces. I've often used swivels and let **** fall just to shove it back up from the underside.