Are you misfiring? Running cheap gas? Running 91+ octane ONLY? Vac leak? Boost leak?
After Ive been accelerating fast and driving it hard, I get this awful smell. Smells like a garbage dump. If I am sitting on my driveway and get the car moving, the same smell happens (the driveway is quite steep. If the fan is on the smell comes through the vents, and if I park in the garage and leave it and go back I can kind of smell it as well. I thought maybe it was the clutch even though its not really remotely close to a clutch smell and its new and I don't ride it or anything, so any input would be appreciated!!
Put your parking brake on and try to take off in first gear. If the clutch is weak it will slip, if it is good it should stall.
Did you replace or resurface the flywheel when you changed the clutch? Is there any possibility the clutch failed due to a main seal leak, which could have been overlooked when replacing the previous clutch?
The garbage smell you describe does sound like some sort of friction material burning up.
CTS gt3071r and more
clutch is brand new...with single mass flywheel. I got it home from the mechanic and the main seal they replaced was bad. So I drove it back and they replaced it. Maybe something got into where the flywheel/clutch ensemble is and isn't burned off yet?
No missfires. Idles pretty steady and there are no leaks as far as I can tell/notice. I only run 91+ octane gas.
I did notice this smell after the clutch was replaced, so Im kind of thinking theres some oil in where the clutch is that hasn't been burnt off...clutch shifts and engages fine.
Recommendation. Stop driving it hard and turn down the boost ( if running high boost ) for at least 1,000 miles.
What type of clutch is it organic or puck type? Different materials make different smells.
Also, garbage smell is kinda vague. Does it smell like rotten eggs? If so, then that would be you Catalytic converter.
Your remark that it smells when going up your steep driveway, does however point to clutch slippage. Could be buggered if disc was contaminated with oil. You might have to argue with your mechanic about why they didn't catch the leaking main seal the first time.
Oil contaminated clutches can some times recover...as long as they don't glaze over. Bottom line.. STOP DRIVING IT HARD for the next 1,000 miles and hope/pray that it beds in.
Last edited by Chickenman35; 05-17-2012 at 10:15 PM.
Worst case scenario. Clutch is glazed over and buggered from oil contamination and insufficient break-in. Mechanic refuses to cover clutch replacement due to a " come back " ( Installation shop error ).
There is a "last ditch" method that sometimes recovers an oil contaminated clutch disc and flywheel.
We used to do to this truck flywheels and brake drums when they got contaminated with oil.
1: Pull the flywheel and clutch. Clean as much of the clutch disc and flywheel as you can with Brake Clean. If the disc is glazed, break the glaze with some 100 -120 grit sand paper or Emery. Don't over do it. Just break up the surface glaze.
2: Now soak the clutch disc and flywheel in Brake Clean again. Set them on fire with a Propane Torch. This will burn off the oil that is soaked into the Flywheel and clutch. DO NOT BREATH IN THE FUMES!!!
This really works quite well, and surprisingly neither the clutch disc nor the flywheel will be damaged. Obviously the flywheel must be off the car, or you run the risk setting the car on fire!!!
3: Usually one burn is sufficient on the clutch disc, The flywheel may require two or three burns. You can tell when the oil is burnt off as the smoke will change color ( Oil smoke is very black ). The oil will also burn for longer than the Brake Cleaner. Lightly sand the clutch disc after the final burn off to remove any charring.
Like I said, last ditch effort...but it really works.
Last edited by Chickenman35; 05-17-2012 at 10:17 PM.
I don't really beat on it much...and the smell isn't very often just every now and then. And I know the clutch is definitely not slipping. I didn't hardly even drive it between the new clutch and new main seal. The smell is less and less noticeable when I do smell it. Maybe its something else. Its not rotten eggs. It honestly smells like burning sewage...I don't know how else to describe it
Look for a split in your CV boot. I had the same smell on my MK3. It smells like a garbage disposal especially if the car isnt moving or right after it moves from a stop after the car is nice and hot and been driven at high speeds/rpms.
Side note: They could have fubared an axle boot when removing your trans...
I'm dumb, but sometimes I accidentally say something smart...
Last edited by Chickenman35; 05-25-2012 at 10:44 AM.
Okay, all the "off topic" posts have been removed, as some people found some of the comments and pictures disturbing. If you can offer up something to help the OP then do so, let's not get his thread off track again, please.
"You guys get out, I've got places to go" - Steve Mahan, Google self driving car user #0001. Watch the video on Youtube, it's awesome!!!
is ur flywheel cover still on ur engine?
Unitronic830cc/Racetronix 846cc flowmatched injectors/HP6262SP-b/ TurboSmart Race Port/PrecisionPW39/TurboSmart MBC/Snow W/M Injection/IE Rods/AEB pistons/ARP Main cap studs/ARP headstuds/3" turboback/ FMIC/Custom fuel surge tank/ Wally 255/AEB head/supertech single keeper valves/ IECVA1 cams/IE valve springs and retainers/034 motor mounts. SPEC Stg 4 6 puck clutch, Vr6 lightweight flywheel. KRM intake manifold/80mm tb