Gt3071r build but need some help please!

[mhefel19]

Ok guys, so I'm planning a gt3071r build and already have an AEB head on the way. I'm wondering what would be the best cams to get for this turbo? I dont know anything about cams that's why I really need some help here!

Also I know that depending on what cams I get I might have to upgrade my springs and lifters for the power. I'm replacing the valve seals in the head alaoctocmake sure it's all good.

Another question I have is what would be a good intake manifold to go with, with a budget in mind though. I don't wanna spend 800$ on an intake mani.

Anyone who can give me some info that would be great! Thankyou!

[screwball]

A Ported smallport cylinder head should not be overlooked, but then you go and mention budget so...

What's your power goals?

[jbutlertelecom]

You are going to have to work over which ever head you choose for this build. I suggest, at a minimum you consider doing it right the first time and do new valves (a quality valve will be required for sustained/frequent 7k and up revs), HD valve springs (to prevent valve float at 6-7k rpms and up) and retainers (less mass, stiffer seat pressures), new valve guides (I'm quoting Interated Engineering here: "Integrated Engineering valve Guides are the performance option for replacing factory guides for new valves. In performance head builds, factory guides are prone to excessive wear resulting in premature valve failures. To combat these issues our valve guides are made from a specialized alloy on our in house CNC lathe with ultra high concentricity for exact valve placement and precise dimensions. Using a proprietary bronze alloy results in faster heat dissipation where thermal conductivity is increased by 10% and extends valve life, guide life, and cylinder head component life. For added performance, these valve guides have been designed with an aerodynamic tip designed to cut down on airflow restrictions in the valve port.") and also consider SAI delete with the AEB head (unless you want to retain SAI for emissions in which case you will need a competent mechanic/machine shop to drill the passage).

Are you planning on doing anything with the bottom end?
I happen to have a set of 20 valve guides from IE that I didn't use on my build as I went with another "built" head that was available to me for cheap (cheaper than having it done myself at the local machine shop).
Here's a link to the ebay listing if you are really interested. Could save a few bucks anyway.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110881157667...84.m1555.l2649

Good luck with your build

FYI: The 3071 would be better suited to a 1.9L or up (most prefer at least punching it out to 2.0L for the extra torque when out of boost)

[87vr6]

head alaoctocmake sure

Do what now??

What's your total budget for this project?

[T-Boy]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110881157667...84.m1555.l2649

Shameless plug...that's twice i've seen you advertise your guides. I almost bid on it, then I saw you raise the price on it. Got them from Pagparts for $140.

[mhefel19]

You are going to have to work over which ever head you choose for this build. I suggest, at a minimum you consider doing it right the first time and do new valves (a quality valve will be required for sustained/frequent 7k and up revs), HD valve springs (to prevent valve float at 6-7k rpms and up) and retainers (less mass, stiffer seat pressures), new valve guides (I'm quoting Interated Engineering here: "Integrated Engineering valve Guides are the performance option for replacing factory guides for new valves. In performance head builds, factory guides are prone to excessive wear resulting in premature valve failures. To combat these issues our valve guides are made from a specialized alloy on our in house CNC lathe with ultra high concentricity for exact valve placement and precise dimensions. Using a proprietary bronze alloy results in faster heat dissipation where thermal conductivity is increased by 10% and extends valve life, guide life, and cylinder head component life. For added performance, these valve guides have been designed with an aerodynamic tip designed to cut down on airflow restrictions in the valve port.") and also consider SAI delete with the AEB head (unless you want to retain SAI for emissions in which case you will need a competent mechanic/machine shop to drill the passage).

Are you planning on doing anything with the bottom end?
I happen to have a set of 20 valve guides from IE that I didn't use on my build as I went with another "built" head that was available to me for cheap (cheaper than having it done myself at the local machine shop).
Here's a link to the ebay listing if you are really interested. Could save a few bucks anyway.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110881157667...84.m1555.l2649

Good luck with your build

FYI: The 3071 would be better suited to a 1.9L or up (most prefer at least punching it out to 2.0L for the extra torque when out of boost)

So if I'm building the head, should I go with a 1mm oversized valve? I dont know what the difference is. And yes I am planning on putting IE rods in and then just new stock pistons and rings.

[T-Boy]

So if I'm building the head, should I go with a 1mm oversized valve? I dont know what the difference is. And yes I am planning on putting IE rods in and then just new stock pistons and rings.

What are your HP goals and how much is your budget set for?

Rough price list for head parts from pagparts

Supertech 1.8T 20v Exhaust Valves
- Valve Groove Options -None-
- Valve Locks -None-
- Valve Material -None-
- Valve Size -None-
$146.32
Supertech 1.8T 20v Intake Valves
- Valve Groove Options -None-
- Valve Locks -None-
- Valve Size -None-
$223.56
Valve Guide VW/Audi 1.8T 20v 98-05
$140.00
Supertech Valve Spring/Retainer Set VW/Audi 1.8T 20v
$433.00
Cam Follower Hydraulic Exhaust VW 1.8T 20v Audi 1.8T 20v/2.8L-3.
$120.00
Cam Follower Hydraulic Intake VW 1.8T 20v Audi 1.8T 20v/2.8L-3.0
$180.00

Sub-Total: $1,242.88

Add valve seals, keepers....ect little stuff add up also.
Add another 600-900 for cams depending on what you get.
These are also stock size valves, and a rough price list to rebuild a head, don't forget adding machine shop labor price.
So.....whats your budget? If you build the bottom end, add about another 1k.

[mhefel19]

Do what now??

What's your total budget for this project?

hahahaha "also to make" And What I mean my budget is I want nice stuff but I don't have money for the NICEST stuff out there. Ex. Like IE rods for $350 compared to SCAT rods

[jbutlertelecom]

Shameless plug...that's twice i've seen you advertise your guides. I almost bid on it, then I saw you raise the price on it. Got them from Pagparts for $140.

Not the same guides, not shameless to try and help someone save some money on some parts that I am sitting on and have no use for...
Shameless trolling much? The SAME EXACT guides will cost over $225.00 from IE, or you can save a little and get them from me. Crazy cheapskates in here, always trying to go budget and then later posting "My engine went boom, why?"...
LOL

[T-Boy]

Not the same guides, not shameless to try and help someone save some money on some parts that I am sitting on and have no use for...
Shameless trolling much? The SAME EXACT guides will cost over $225.00 from IE, or you can save a little and get them from me. Crazy cheapskates in here, always trying to go budget and then later posting "My engine went boom, why?"...
LOL

Not trolling when every engine build you post in has a plug to sell your guides. You claim you're trying to save the person money yet claim "over $225.00 from IE" it's actually $199 + $14 for shipping....don't know how that ends up "over $225". You show me a stock guide that made an engine go boom and I'll call him a cheapskate. LOL
Maybe you should put your ebay add by your VW mech sig....

[mhefel19]

Ok well there's nothing wrong with someone trying to help me out, but this thread isn't for arguing. I just clearly needed some help and info on what to do.

And to answer all your questions my budget is around $5000 and I know it will probably be more but I'm not trying to cheap out in things cause its not worth it down the road. My HP range is 400

And yes I know to add in machining costs for decking and all the other stuff. But if you guys know anything about what cams will be best for my setups that will also help me out cause I know little to none about cams and there duration and what that means.

[T-Boy]

Ok well there's nothing wrong with someone trying to help me out, but this thread isn't for arguing. I just clearly needed some help and info on what to do.

And to answer all your questions my budget is around $5000 and I know it will probably be more but I'm not trying to cheap out in things cause its not worth it down the road. My HP range is 400

And yes I know to add in machining costs for decking and all the other stuff. But if you guys know anything about what cams will be best for my setups that will also help me out cause I know little to none about cams and there duration and what that means.

400whp can be done on stock cams. Is that 5K total turbo kit and engine build, or 5k for just the engine? It makes a difference....also what are you going to use the car for? Drag, track, street race, daily driver? Do you have emmisions? All of the questions asked in this thread helps narrow things down.
As for the intake mani, if you're not willing the drop 800+ for a mani, you can find a AEB intake mani and use the runners and fab up your own for less.

[mhefel19]

It's going to be my daily for a while till I can get a cheap beater
To drive. And so yes I will need emmissions but I rather just get rid of te SAI system and with the AEB head I won't be able to have my combi valve sooo kinda have to get rid
Of emmissions.

Is te AEB head worth it? Or should I just rebuild the stock head? It does have 160k on it.
Is 400hp capable on the stock AWW head if I rebuilt it?

Also I want to stay around $5000 for turbo and rebuild. I have a Frankenturbo f23 I will be selling soon to help find my gt3071r. My Frankenturbo will have about 5k on it when I take it out of the car.

[T-Boy]

It's going to be my daily for a while till I can get a cheap beater
To drive. And so yes I will need emmissions but I rather just get rid of te SAI system and with the AEB head I won't be able to have my combi valve sooo kinda have to get rid
Of emmissions.

Is te AEB head worth it? Or should I just rebuild the stock head? It does have 160k on it.
Is 400hp capable on the stock AWW head if I rebuilt it?

Also I want to stay around $5000 for turbo and rebuild. I have a Frankenturbo f23 I will be selling soon to help find my gt3071r. My Frankenturbo will have about 5k on it when I take it out of the car.

Whatever head you use, you "should" rebuild it. So take the prices I listed above for the head. $3200 for a parparts 3071r kit, and tack on another grand for a bottom end rebuild with rods, bearings, bolts gaskets, timing belt kit, water pump, thermostat..... ect ect.
That's about $5400 ish without labor or machine shop cost. Now throw in software and injectors.....I think you get a good ballpark figure.
You should be able to get 400hp with either head and stock cams, there's speculation on which head is better for what so I won't say do one or the other. Either way you should rebuild the head before droping it on a built bottom.

[mhefel19]

Thanks so much for the input. I will definatly be rebuilding the head. Maybe I will sell the AEB head and make my $300 back and use that for other things.

What are your thoughts on buying and old 3071r and rebuilding it?

[T-Boy]

Thanks so much for the input. I will definatly be rebuilding the head. Maybe I will sell the AEB head and make my $300 back and use that for other things.

What are your thoughts on buying and old 3071r and rebuilding it?

Depends if it's a good turbo or not. If it's good, you can bolt it on and run it, if it has issues, send it to Arnold and have it fixed. If you add the cost of the used turbo and it's bad, it could cost the same if not more then a new turbo, so just be sure the turbo is good (no bent fins, no shaft play...ect).

[jbutlertelecom]

Not trolling when every engine build you post in has a plug to sell your guides. You claim you're trying to save the person money yet claim "over $225.00 from IE" it's actually $199 + $14 for shipping....don't know how that ends up "over $225". You show me a stock guide that made an engine go boom and I'll call him a cheapskate. LOL
Maybe you should put your ebay add by your VW mech sig....

Giving your opinion is fine but calling me shameless is an insult if I ever heard one. I have a receipt that says I payed $225.00 for a set of 20 with shipping (at the time Fed-Ex Home Delivery was the ONLY option). Listing them for 175.00 or best offer is saving money any way you try to spin it. I even offer free shipping.
I don't have to explain myself to anyone, especially you, but I thought I would clear things up for others whom might get the wrong idea from your post's suggested motives. I have a listing up in the classifieds and for a while now, what's your point? So you went with another type of guide and saved a few dollars, comparatively, so what. The fact is, anyone is free to make their own choice as to what they will use but that will not prevent me from offering a good deal to someone and you should not be discouraging fellow vortexers from the opportunity's that present themselves.
Obviously Integrated Engineering is claiming a benefit over other products out there, such as 10% better heat transfer, better wear characteristics, etc. Are you saying that they are imbeciles now? Obviously you do not feel that their product is worth the price they ask, since you went with a cheaper product and hold the belief that OEM is good enough for you, others may disagree. Still, how insulting.

I never made ANY claims that using an OEM or other guide would cause a motor to go boom. I did however suggest that IF SOMEONE WHO"S REBUILDING FOR POWER NEGLECTS TO DO IT RIGHT (meaning completely overhaul the head with ALL necessary parts with consideration for the power goals) THE MOTOR WILL GO BOOM>
Now, if you would, just go stroke your ego somewhere else, I am getting really tired of the E-THUGS that name call and post disparaging remarks toward your fellow dubber.
Its like babysitting a bunch of children in here, for fuc*s sake.

[T-Boy]

Giving your opinion is fine but calling me shameless is an insult if I ever heard one. I have a receipt that says I payed $225.00 for a set of 20 with shipping (at the time Fed-Ex Home Delivery was the ONLY option). Listing them for 175.00 or best offer is saving money any way you try to spin it. I even offer free shipping.
I don't have to explain myself to anyone, especially you, but I thought I would clear things up for others whom might get the wrong idea from your post's suggested motives. I have a listing up in the classifieds and for a while now, what's your point? So you went with another type of guide and saved a few dollars, comparatively, so what. The fact is, anyone is free to make their own choice as to what they will use but that will not prevent me from offering a good deal to someone and you should not be discouraging fellow vortexers from the opportunity's that present themselves.
Obviously Integrated Engineering is claiming a benefit over other products out there, such as 10% better heat transfer, better wear characteristics, etc. Are you saying that they are imbeciles now? Obviously you do not feel that their product is worth the price they ask, since you went with a cheaper product and hold the belief that OEM is good enough for you, others may disagree. Still, how insulting.

I never made ANY claims that using an OEM or other guide would cause a motor to go boom. I did however suggest that IF SOMEONE WHO"S REBUILDING FOR POWER NEGLECTS TO DO IT RIGHT (meaning completely overhaul the head with ALL necessary parts with consideration for the power goals) THE MOTOR WILL GO BOOM>
Now, if you would, just go stroke your ego somewhere else, I am getting really tired of the E-THUGS that name call and post disparaging remarks toward your fellow dubber.
Its like babysitting a bunch of children in here, for fuc*s sake.

Only person acting like a child here is you. You're the one that's butt hurt and defending yourself. If you truely wanted to help the person, it wouldn't have been on a thread but through pm so it doesn't clutter up OP's thread. You implied not using IE's special guides but stock guides are for cheapskates and that's why motor's go boom. Should I quote that again? I've never called you any names either....are you ?
Take a chill pill, change your tampon, and give the guy some sounds advise, not what you have for sale.

[jbutlertelecom]

Only person acting like a child here is you. You're the one that's butt hurt and defending yourself. If you truely wanted to help the person, it wouldn't have been on a thread but through pm so it doesn't clutter up OP's thread. You implied not using IE's special guides but stock guides are for cheapskates and that's why motor's go boom. Should I quote that again? I've never called you any names either....are you ?
Take a chill pill, change your tampon, and give the guy some sounds advise, not what you have for sale.

The only one here that's truly shameless is you, for trying to start schit in someone else's post.

Moving on...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110881157667...84.m1555.l2649

[T-Boy]

The only one here that's truly shameless is you, for trying to start schit in someone else's post.

Moving on...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110881157667...84.m1555.l2649

And another shameless plug to sell his crap. LOL Please do move on and use the classified.

[jbutlertelecom]

And another shameless plug to sell his crap. LOL Please do move on and use the classified.

Wow, you sure do have a hard on for me today...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110881157667...84.m1555.l2649

So, IE valve guides are CRAP, so says T-Boy! Yay!

You sure are opinionated, I'll give you that much, LOL

[T-Boy]

Wow, you sure do have a hard on for me today...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110881157667...84.m1555.l2649

So, IE valve guides are CRAP, so says T-Boy! Yay!

You sure are opinionated, I'll give you that much, LOL

Another childish, shameless post. Keep it up, you're just proving my point.

[jbutlertelecom]

Another childish, shameless post. Keep it up, you're just proving my point.

Why so serious? Seriously, it's not like you mean anything to me and all you are here, other than a source of 1.8T knowledge, is a cry baby who doesn't like it when other people post offers for parts. I really don't care if you have a point to make, I really don't care that posting a link for some valve guides bothers you or not, I don't care if you think it's shameless or not. Your opinion means nothing to me so really, why keep poking at a dead subject? All this is doing is wasting valuable time and space on another persons post. Personally, I did exactly as you said, I posted advice. Period, end of story, end of subject, end of replies to your weak argument(s). I don't care, you have a differing opinion than me (and possibly others, who knows and who cares), good for you.

Just remember, you don't have to like it, but you should learn when to keep your mouth shut.

I set the record straight in the posts above, let the chips fall where they may.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110881157667...84.m1555.l2649

[T-Boy]

Why so serious? Seriously, it's not like you mean anything to me and all you are here, other than a source of 1.8T knowledge, is a cry baby who doesn't like it when other people post offers for parts. I really don't care if you have a point to make, I really don't care that posting a link for some valve guides bothers you or not, I don't care if you think it's shameless or not. Your opinion means nothing to me so really, why keep poking at a dead subject? All this is doing is wasting valuable time and space on another persons post. Personally, I did exactly as you said, I posted advice. Period, end of story, end of subject, end of replies to your weak argument(s). I don't care, you have a differing opinion than me (and possibly others, who knows and who cares), good for you.

Just remember, you don't have to like it, but you should learn when to keep your mouth shut.

I set the record straight in the posts above, let the chips fall where they may.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110881157667...84.m1555.l2649

Like I said...point proven. Keep posting!

[jbutlertelecom]

Like I said...point proven. Keep posting!

Lol

[mhefel19]

ok guys i have another question...

As far as rods go, i am going to be using IE H-beam rods. my question is, is what is the difference between a 19mm wrist pin and 20mm? obviously one is bigger... but what is the benefit? and which one should i go with? i have an AWW engine code.

Also should i do the rifled drilling option? is it worth the extra $100 and does it help that much?

Thanks!

[groggory]

ok guys i have another question...

As far as rods go, i am going to be using IE H-beam rods. my question is, is what is the difference between a 19mm wrist pin and 20mm? obviously one is bigger... but what is the benefit? and which one should i go with? i have an AWW engine code.

Also should i do the rifled drilling option? is it worth the extra $100 and does it help that much?

Thanks!

Match the wrist pin to the piston.

AEB's got the 20mm wrist pin. Pretty much everything else, including the AWW, has 19mm wrist pins. Get 19mm and keep the stock pistons. Bigger wrist pins can handle more load. Same thing tool steel vs. steel. Just get the standard IE drop in 19mm rods. They work great and aren't too bad on the pocketbook.

Rifle drilling is a definite win. Yes it helps that much. And yes, you should get it. And yes, it's worth it.

[mhefel19]

Match the wrist pin to the piston.

AEB's got the 20mm wrist pin. Pretty much everything else, including the AWW, has 19mm wrist pins. Get 19mm and keep the stock pistons. Bigger wrist pins can handle more load. Same thing tool steel vs. steel. Just get the standard IE drop in 19mm rods. They work great and aren't too bad on the pocketbook.

Rifle drilling is a definite win. Yes it helps that much. And yes, you should get it. And yes, it's worth it.

Thanks for the info. Ill def be ordering some IE rods the 19mm drop in kit with the drilling. but does the drilling weaken it at all? im gunna be at 400whp and it will somewhat be a daily driver.

[groggory]

Thanks for the info. Ill def be ordering some IE rods the 19mm drop in kit with the drilling. but does the drilling weaken it at all? im gunna be at 400whp and it will somewhat be a daily driver.

Drilling does not weaken it more than a smidge. Don't worry about it. The increased lubrication more than makes up for it.

[mhefel19]

Drilling does not weaken it more than a smidge. Don't worry about it. The increased lubrication more than makes up for it.

sounds good!

[Mindfault]

Get a KR motorwerks intake manifold thats what i has

[mhefel19]

Get a KR motorwerks intake manifold thats what i has

How much?? And will it work with an AEB head?

[Mindfault]

yeah, pm me ur cell number