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    Thread: VR6 :D

    1. Member claud95's Avatar
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      08-12-2012 03:16 PM #36
      I just dont think it could be the coil pack because it seems like its a fuel issue, like it sputts and Boggs down like its not getting enough fuel. My acceleration is bad and it has like no power. And this only occurs after it sits for about 2-3 hrs in cold or hot weather.

    2. Member max302's Avatar
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      08-13-2012 08:40 PM #37

    3. Member claud95's Avatar
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      08-14-2012 05:15 PM #38
      Update! It is backfiring now when I drive it. Soo.. Not sure. Any ideas on what could be the problem?

    4. Member claud95's Avatar
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      09-20-2012 09:03 AM #39
      soooo, is it possible that when i did my plugs&wires that i may have cracked the coilpack when removing/installing the new wires????
      I'm thinking more and more its a cracked coilpack, any ideas of what i could do to test it before i fork out the $200 for one?

    5. Member izzo's Avatar
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      09-20-2012 12:19 PM #40
      Let's see....

      Quote Originally Posted by claud95 View Post
      I just dont think it could be the coil pack because it seems like its a fuel issue
      vs
      Quote Originally Posted by claud95 View Post
      soooo, is it possible that when i did my plugs&wires that i may have cracked the coilpack when removing/installing the new wires????
      I'm thinking more and more its a cracked coilpack, any ideas of what i could do to test it before i fork out the $200 for one?


      Also:

    6. Member mopedman's Avatar
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      09-20-2012 04:10 PM #41
      If you just use the search you will find all the info you need on vr6 coilpack replacement or cheap DIY fixes (JB Weld). Unless you have paperwork on the motor who knows if it's actually rebuilt, the timing chains are more of a concern(look this up aswell, good to know about for a new VR6 owner). And if it has been rebuilt recently, I wouldn't be beating on it until it's broken in a bit. Personally, i'd find better looking wheels before I did coils, and wouldn't have mis-matched pieces on your car(AKA grille that looks like it came off a black car in a junkyard) And if you're not used to driving low, consider a skid plate, as anyone on this forum will tell you it's pretty easy to smack the pan if you aren't used to being low.

      Not trying to put you down, just experience from my first VR6 and coilovers, and going through 2 oil pans and 1 pickup before I smartened up and learn to pay attention when I drove (it's not a regular hop in and go wherever you want without thinking car anymore once it has coilovers). Also expect for your wheel bearings, strut tops, front end parts and tires (if you don't get it aligned) to have a shorter life span than a stock car would.
      The outlook is Grim

    7. Member claud95's Avatar
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      11-06-2012 08:29 AM #42
      car is running well (for now). replaced the plugs, wires, and coilpack and no more misfiring
      but now onto another task. does anyone know of a diy for replacing a window motor in one of these? ive got the replacement motor and i've taken off the door card to check it out, but i've got no idea where to start. any help?
      thanks!

    8. Member 91B3DUB's Avatar
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      11-25-2012 02:09 PM #43
      hey u may want to also invest in to a bentley repair manual. trust me you are going to need it. also i can get brandnew window regulator and track for about 70 bucks. lmk
      pushindubssince'89
      Quote Originally Posted by mkIIgli View Post
      This still available? Interested in a trade for a matco toolbox?

    9. Member claud95's Avatar
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      02 Audi A4 Quattro
      11-28-2012 09:38 AM #44
      so, not sure what exactly the rpms are it should idle at, but cold start, warm start, doesnt matter which it is, i will start the car then it will go up to about 1500, then settle down to barely over a thousand rpms, and i almost can feel a small missfire once in a while, it just runs so low, im not sure if thats normal, or the beginning of a new problem. also, after sitting for a couple hours, i will shift through first then get it up too about 3000 rpms in 2nd, then push it up to about 4000, and then it will bogg down and will die, then when i try to restart it, i have to give it gas and it cranks hard and takes about 15 seconds to start.. im not sure what these problems could be, maybe an alternator slowly going out for the low rpms? not getting enough power to run the proper rmps? i just did wires, plugs, and coilpack not too long ago, so not sure what the problem could be. any help at all? any ideas?
      thanks!

    10. Member max302's Avatar
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      11-29-2012 01:06 AM #45
      How is 1000 rpm a low idle? VRs with stock cams and chip idle at something like 750 when warm.

      Check your fueling for the bogging issue. Fuel filter might be due.

    11. Member koolkevin43's Avatar
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      11-29-2012 09:47 AM #46
      Quote Originally Posted by max302 View Post
      How is 1000 rpm a low idle? VRs with stock cams and chip idle at something like 750 when warm.

      Check your fueling for the bogging issue. Fuel filter might be due.

      It won't be the filter if it's bogging... bogging means it's getting too much fuel, or not enough air. And a stock VR should idle around ~550 when warm, and 750 on cold start, or when the A/C is on.

    12. Member claud95's Avatar
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      11-29-2012 02:36 PM #47
      lol guys, meant to put just above the 0, not 1000 rmps, haha

      but i just did the fuel filter about 4 months ago so that probably rules that out

    13. Member claud95's Avatar
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      01-01-2013 08:04 PM #48
      So I wrecked my car Saturday night!
      Slid off the ice covered road and hit a telephone pole doing about 45
      Snapped the cv joint off and bent the control arm up & back. That's all the damage I know of, but I am planning on getting it fixed. Not sure if this is a smart move or not. But I don't have any other options right now haha so fixing it it is!!
      [IMG][/IMG]
      [IMG][/IMG]
      [IMG][/IMG]

    14. Member nowake19's Avatar
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      Yeah, I've had a few
      01-07-2013 04:05 AM #49
      That's some tough breaks, man.
      Where do you live in Ohio? I'm up on the lake between cleveland and toledo, if you need some help getting it back together I could probably lend a hand. If anything, you might want to take some measurements of the control arm mount points, compare side to side to see if they moved around from the hit.

      From the looks of it you're going to need new control arm, bushings to go in it, ball joint, CV axle, nut, probably a new tie rod assembly, maybe a steering knuckle & wheel bearing depending if anything snapped off the knuckle. not including the fender you're probably looking at $250-$500 in parts. I put my mk2 jetta over a curb sideways a couple of years ago and bent the s#!t out of the control arm, I regret junking it to this day since looking back, the repairs are relatively easy.
      Last edited by nowake19; 01-07-2013 at 04:13 AM.

    15. Member claud95's Avatar
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      01-07-2013 08:49 AM #50
      Im in Defiance, about 45 mins south west ish of toledo
      I had it towed to my mechanic on friday
      but i'll definitely keep that in mind in the future! im only 18 so i dont really know how to fix many things yet, havent had anyone to teach me. and i dont really have a junk car to learn on because this was my only car, so i dont wanna mess this one up, lol but thanks

    16. Member claud95's Avatar
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      01-16-2013 04:50 PM #51
      So I'm thinking about plasti dipping the whole car when I get it back.
      It's at the mechanics and he said it needs basically a new everything on my drivers side where I hit the pole
      But I'm thinking about plasti dipping it because its cheap and removable. And it's not like I'm doing it do a $100,00 car.
      Any input or ideas?

    17. Member 91B3DUB's Avatar
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      01-16-2013 10:16 PM #52
      So does this mean you are going go fix it? lol sounds like its going to be plasti dipping and sitting?
      pushindubssince'89
      Quote Originally Posted by mkIIgli View Post
      This still available? Interested in a trade for a matco toolbox?

    18. Member claud95's Avatar
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      01-16-2013 10:25 PM #53
      No no no lol
      It's getting fixed right now at the mechanic! & when it warms up, I'll probably dip.

    19. Member koolkevin43's Avatar
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      01-17-2013 03:03 PM #54
      Quote Originally Posted by claud95 View Post
      No no no lol
      It's getting fixed right now at the mechanic! & when it warms up, I'll probably dip.
      I've been thinking about dipping my car white or red, as the classic green clear coat is pretty bad off.

    20. Member claud95's Avatar
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      01-17-2013 03:40 PM #55
      I think it's a cheap and good looking idea!
      For the kit it's $400 to do the whole car and its what? Like 1500-2000$ for a re-spray? No thanks.
      Plus it's removable also, I think it's a win win situation if the cars paint is junked up like mine is

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