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    Thread: VR6 :D

    1. Member
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      06-28-2012 03:23 PM #26
      Quote Originally Posted by claud95 View Post
      Ok so I don't know exactly about the motor, but oh well. I'm facing another problem.
      When I go to lock my doors with my key, I turn it and we all know the noise it makes when the doors and trunk and stuff lock, right?
      Well if you know what sound I'm taking about, you'll know that that sound normally goes away after about 10-15 seconds. Well ever since yesterday morning, mine has stayed making that sound for at least 2 minutes, it eventualy shuts off, But i dont think it can't be good. So any input or any advice at all would be greatly appreciated.
      The sound you hear when you lock the door is a vacuum pump. Sounds like you got a leak somewhere. The pump is in the trunk left side under the carpeting under were the hazard triangle should go. Not were the spare is. It's in a foam casing. Follow you lines if you can't hear were the leak is. From what I read on here common areas are by the doors in the black rubber boot by the hinges. If you can't find it you can always unplug the pump and have manual lock.

    2. Member claud95's Avatar
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      06-28-2012 07:48 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by drive.euro View Post
      The sound you hear when you lock the door is a vacuum pump. Sounds like you got a leak somewhere. The pump is in the trunk left side under the carpeting under were the hazard triangle should go. Not were the spare is. It's in a foam casing. Follow you lines if you can't hear were the leak is. From what I read on here common areas are by the doors in the black rubber boot by the hinges. If you can't find it you can always unplug the pump and have manual lock.
      Okay! Well I can hear it, it's right next to my drivers seat! So what do I do when I've found the leak?

    3. Member koolkevin43's Avatar
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      06-28-2012 09:14 PM #28
      Quote Originally Posted by claud95 View Post
      Okay! Well I can hear it, it's right next to my drivers seat! So what do I do when I've found the leak?
      Replace the line, or buy a barbed connector and cut the split out.

    4. Member
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      06-28-2012 09:22 PM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by koolkevin43 View Post
      Replace the line, or buy a barbed connector and cut the split out.
      Until you can do that try sealing the leak for now with something you have laying around so you don't Burma the pump out. You can also unplug it form now just do something if it is going to take a bit for you to fix it. Unless your just not going to drive it or be locking and unlocking it.

    5. Member claud95's Avatar
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      06-29-2012 08:29 AM #30
      Ok cool thanks
      Anyone have a DIY for this or know of one? I wanna do it right!

    6. Member
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      06-29-2012 10:24 AM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by claud95 View Post
      Ok cool thanks
      Anyone have a DIY for this or know of one? I wanna do it right!
      Yea do it right a temp fix I just that. I know there are some on here. Which one do want? The whole line or the barrel splice. Were the splice will need to be make sure the barrel connection will not cause issues when putting the trim back.

    7. Member claud95's Avatar
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      06-29-2012 12:58 PM #32
      Umm... Both! Lol I'll decide which is easier!

    8. Member claud95's Avatar
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      08-12-2012 01:57 PM #33
      Okay... Got a problem guys! My car is misfiring and sputting really bad. I've replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, and fuel filter. Not sure what could be causing it, but none of the things I've done have fixed it. Any ideas of what it could be?
      I'm thinkin a bad catilaytic converter or a fuel pump.. I don't know though, any ideas???

    9. Member koolkevin43's Avatar
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      08-12-2012 03:04 PM #34
      bad coilpack?

    10. Member claud95's Avatar
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      08-12-2012 03:07 PM #35
      Quote Originally Posted by koolkevin43 View Post
      bad coilpack?
      Umm.. Haven't done that, or even thought of that!
      I'll check into it!

    11. Member claud95's Avatar
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      08-12-2012 03:16 PM #36
      I just dont think it could be the coil pack because it seems like its a fuel issue, like it sputts and Boggs down like its not getting enough fuel. My acceleration is bad and it has like no power. And this only occurs after it sits for about 2-3 hrs in cold or hot weather.

    12. Member max302's Avatar
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      08-13-2012 08:40 PM #37

    13. Member claud95's Avatar
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      08-14-2012 05:15 PM #38
      Update! It is backfiring now when I drive it. Soo.. Not sure. Any ideas on what could be the problem?

    14. Member claud95's Avatar
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      09-20-2012 09:03 AM #39
      soooo, is it possible that when i did my plugs&wires that i may have cracked the coilpack when removing/installing the new wires????
      I'm thinking more and more its a cracked coilpack, any ideas of what i could do to test it before i fork out the $200 for one?

    15. Member izzo's Avatar
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      09-20-2012 12:19 PM #40
      Let's see....

      Quote Originally Posted by claud95 View Post
      I just dont think it could be the coil pack because it seems like its a fuel issue
      vs
      Quote Originally Posted by claud95 View Post
      soooo, is it possible that when i did my plugs&wires that i may have cracked the coilpack when removing/installing the new wires????
      I'm thinking more and more its a cracked coilpack, any ideas of what i could do to test it before i fork out the $200 for one?


      Also:

    16. Member mopedman's Avatar
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      09-20-2012 04:10 PM #41
      If you just use the search you will find all the info you need on vr6 coilpack replacement or cheap DIY fixes (JB Weld). Unless you have paperwork on the motor who knows if it's actually rebuilt, the timing chains are more of a concern(look this up aswell, good to know about for a new VR6 owner). And if it has been rebuilt recently, I wouldn't be beating on it until it's broken in a bit. Personally, i'd find better looking wheels before I did coils, and wouldn't have mis-matched pieces on your car(AKA grille that looks like it came off a black car in a junkyard) And if you're not used to driving low, consider a skid plate, as anyone on this forum will tell you it's pretty easy to smack the pan if you aren't used to being low.

      Not trying to put you down, just experience from my first VR6 and coilovers, and going through 2 oil pans and 1 pickup before I smartened up and learn to pay attention when I drove (it's not a regular hop in and go wherever you want without thinking car anymore once it has coilovers). Also expect for your wheel bearings, strut tops, front end parts and tires (if you don't get it aligned) to have a shorter life span than a stock car would.
      The outlook is Grim

    17. Member claud95's Avatar
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      11-06-2012 08:29 AM #42
      car is running well (for now). replaced the plugs, wires, and coilpack and no more misfiring
      but now onto another task. does anyone know of a diy for replacing a window motor in one of these? ive got the replacement motor and i've taken off the door card to check it out, but i've got no idea where to start. any help?
      thanks!

    18. Member 91B3DUB's Avatar
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      11-25-2012 02:09 PM #43
      hey u may want to also invest in to a bentley repair manual. trust me you are going to need it. also i can get brandnew window regulator and track for about 70 bucks. lmk
      pushindubssince'89
      Quote Originally Posted by mkIIgli View Post
      This still available? Interested in a trade for a matco toolbox?

    19. Member claud95's Avatar
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      11-28-2012 09:38 AM #44
      so, not sure what exactly the rpms are it should idle at, but cold start, warm start, doesnt matter which it is, i will start the car then it will go up to about 1500, then settle down to barely over a thousand rpms, and i almost can feel a small missfire once in a while, it just runs so low, im not sure if thats normal, or the beginning of a new problem. also, after sitting for a couple hours, i will shift through first then get it up too about 3000 rpms in 2nd, then push it up to about 4000, and then it will bogg down and will die, then when i try to restart it, i have to give it gas and it cranks hard and takes about 15 seconds to start.. im not sure what these problems could be, maybe an alternator slowly going out for the low rpms? not getting enough power to run the proper rmps? i just did wires, plugs, and coilpack not too long ago, so not sure what the problem could be. any help at all? any ideas?
      thanks!

    20. Member max302's Avatar
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      11-29-2012 01:06 AM #45
      How is 1000 rpm a low idle? VRs with stock cams and chip idle at something like 750 when warm.

      Check your fueling for the bogging issue. Fuel filter might be due.

    21. Member koolkevin43's Avatar
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      11-29-2012 09:47 AM #46
      Quote Originally Posted by max302 View Post
      How is 1000 rpm a low idle? VRs with stock cams and chip idle at something like 750 when warm.

      Check your fueling for the bogging issue. Fuel filter might be due.

      It won't be the filter if it's bogging... bogging means it's getting too much fuel, or not enough air. And a stock VR should idle around ~550 when warm, and 750 on cold start, or when the A/C is on.

    22. Member claud95's Avatar
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      11-29-2012 02:36 PM #47
      lol guys, meant to put just above the 0, not 1000 rmps, haha

      but i just did the fuel filter about 4 months ago so that probably rules that out

    23. Member claud95's Avatar
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      01-01-2013 08:04 PM #48
      So I wrecked my car Saturday night!
      Slid off the ice covered road and hit a telephone pole doing about 45
      Snapped the cv joint off and bent the control arm up & back. That's all the damage I know of, but I am planning on getting it fixed. Not sure if this is a smart move or not. But I don't have any other options right now haha so fixing it it is!!
      [IMG][/IMG]
      [IMG][/IMG]
      [IMG][/IMG]

    24. Member nowake19's Avatar
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      01-07-2013 04:05 AM #49
      That's some tough breaks, man.
      Where do you live in Ohio? I'm up on the lake between cleveland and toledo, if you need some help getting it back together I could probably lend a hand. If anything, you might want to take some measurements of the control arm mount points, compare side to side to see if they moved around from the hit.

      From the looks of it you're going to need new control arm, bushings to go in it, ball joint, CV axle, nut, probably a new tie rod assembly, maybe a steering knuckle & wheel bearing depending if anything snapped off the knuckle. not including the fender you're probably looking at $250-$500 in parts. I put my mk2 jetta over a curb sideways a couple of years ago and bent the s#!t out of the control arm, I regret junking it to this day since looking back, the repairs are relatively easy.
      Last edited by nowake19; 01-07-2013 at 04:13 AM.

    25. Member claud95's Avatar
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      01-07-2013 08:49 AM #50
      Im in Defiance, about 45 mins south west ish of toledo
      I had it towed to my mechanic on friday
      but i'll definitely keep that in mind in the future! im only 18 so i dont really know how to fix many things yet, havent had anyone to teach me. and i dont really have a junk car to learn on because this was my only car, so i dont wanna mess this one up, lol but thanks

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