Turtledub's Armageddon Build

[turtledub]

So the end of 2012 is approaching. I figure I will need something with style to welcome our alien overlords in. This thread will chronicle my journey to build a "not bad", somewhat fast, somewhat reliable Corrado before Doomsday. I need a getaway car when the looting begins.
I have said however that when I finially get this car finished it would mark the end of the world.
Will this be the build thread of the year? Eh, maybe.
Will it be filled with crappy cell phone pics? You know it.

Will this car be the harbringer of death? Yes. Why? Because 1.8t.

[Tk2g60]

If you are preparing for doomsday, I would imagine you will need to make this thing bulletproof. Covered with steel plates, machine guns, and rocket launchers in every angle. like a Mad Max Corrado I'm in! I too was thinking what I would do with my Corrado come the day the world ends

[ewillard]

[6BangSneezer]

Yeeeeeea if the world is ending ill be using something SLIGHTLY more reliable... Like perhaps something Korean with 300k+ on the odo

[turtledub]

Nice. This means more build time.

So far the plans are as follows.
20v AEB from a 99 Passat. 90k on the clock according to the PO. When the engine was taken out of the car it was unbolted and the harness was hacked off with a pair of bolt cutters. All the hosed were also cut. Luckily all most of the connectors and sensors are in place.
Uncut AEB harness.
T3 from a previous build.
38mm Turbonetics wastegate.
2.0t coil conversion.
Large FMIC.
Snow Performance water meth.
AGU manifold(straight out of Europe)
Manual timing belt tensioner
Forge splitter valve

[turtledub]

Anyone have any thoughts on a manual timing belt tensioner? IE has a nice set up for the 058 block. Bahn Brenner also has one but it is just the tensioner and the stud. I ham hoping to order today or tomorrow.

[sdezego]

The problem with the manual tensioner is not the tensioner itself, it is the corresponding belt due to dimeter diffs. The AEB used two differnt belts. The early with used a horrid tensioner setup that was prone to failure and used a (152T belt). The Revised hydro tensioner similar to later 20vs used a 153T. The IE setup accounts for this belt length difference for the Later 20vs and uses that extra roller bracket.

You can use the 16v manual Tensioner on the 058 block and AEB head. You will need to flip the roller and use a Shim behind it along with the proper Stud due to mounting depth diffs on the head. I am not certain on what tooth belt you would need for this setup, but my guess is that either the 152 or 153T would work. YOU NEED to VERITY THIS though

Another option is using the later AWP Roller, removing teh hydro tensioner bracket and placing a washer between the bolt and roller to make the tensioner fixed when you tighten. THis Roller has a slightly larger diameter than the 9a though and would most definitely require the 153T an would hopefully be long enough. My gut says yes, but you need to verify.

I used both setups on the AEB and other 20v heads for various reasons. All were on the ABA tall block, which is why I disclaim knowing the exact belt lengths. I seem to recall though that 153t was perfect for 20v on G60 Block (same deck height as AEB) using the 9a roller.

Finally, the 9a is MUCH cheaper than the AWP route, but just so you can see what I mean, here is how you would make the AWP work. <- can't seem to find my pic of the AWP...

Going to need to use a modified serp crank pulley too as the AEB will not work (5 rib. etc)

Lots of info that is directly relevant in the G60 20v thread in the G60 Forum

[turtledub]

The problem with the manual tensioner is not the tensioner itself, it is the corresponding belt due to dimeter diffs. The AEB used two differnt belts. The early with used a horrid tensioner setup that was prone to failure and used a (152T belt). The Revised hydro tensioner similar to later 20vs used a 153T. The IE setup accounts for this belt length difference for the Later 20vs and uses that extra roller bracket.

You can use the 16v manual Tensioner on the 058 block and AEB head. You will need to flip the roller and use a Shim behind it along with the proper Stud due to mounting depth diffs on the head. I am not certain on what tooth belt you would need for this setup, but my guess is that either the 152 or 153T would work. YOU NEED to VERITY THIS though

Another option is using the later AWP Roller, removing teh hydro tensioner bracket and placing a washer between the bolt and roller to make the tensioner fixed when you tighten. THis Roller has a slightly larger diameter than the 9a though and would most definitely require the 153T an would hopefully be long enough. My gut says yes, but you need to verify.

I used both setups on the AEB and other 20v heads for various reasons. All were on the ABA tall block, which is why I disclaim knowing the exact belt lengths. I seem to recall though that 153t was perfect for 20v on G60 Block (same deck height as AEB) using the 9a roller.

Finally, the 9a is MUCH cheaper than the AWP route, but just so you can see what I mean, here is how you would make the AWP work. <- can't seem to find my pic of the AWP...

Going to need to use a modified serp crank pulley too as the AEB will not work (5 rib. etc)

Lots of info that is directly relevant in the G60 20v thread in the G60 Forum

This is going to be an AEB 1.8t swap.

[sdezego]

This is going to be an AEB 1.8t swap.

Right, but what I am saying is that the AEB and G60 are both 058 blocks and both have the same Block Deck height and would use the same timing belt lengths when using custom tensioner options as well as the Crank Serp Pulley.

[turtledub]

I think that I am going to go with the Integrated Engineering timing belt set up. It seems to have a bit more crank pulley wrap.

Its also red.

[sdezego]

haha, nice. I don't think you can go wrong either way. Extra wrap is beneficial on the 06a blocks where it is also driving a waterpump. Not needed on the 058 as the 16v and other engines have proved for years.

But... you have a point. Anodized AL sure looks nice

[turtledub]

That and I am also picking up their FSI coil conversion adapter plates so I can use my 2.0t coils. I figure I might as well buy most of the stuff from one place.

Hopefully I can get back in the garage on wednesday. I want to start tearing the AEB down to get some things powder coated or painted. Motor mount brackets, valve cover, AGU manifold, and the occasional coolant line. Idealy I would like to get them all powdercoated but if the cost turns out to be crazy I will go with a high temp paint. I think a wrinkle black would look nice and OEM-ish. I did my previous valve cover in the wrinkle and I really liked it.

[VR6 EDM]

haha! nice... do you have some more publicly noted trolls that can trump this? Im really interested in the videos that have more views so it can be supported and funded by Wikipedia's urban dictionary!, ur arguement is invalid, and I dont have anything to surpass ur knowledge of google searching so there is, and never will be an answer to your technical and scholarly findings!

[2OVT]

funny, I am building an AWP 1.8T Corrado and am aiming to have it done before dooms day

[turtledub]

funny, I am building an AWP 1.8T Corrado and am aiming to have it done before dooms day

It is a race then!
I have been secretly watching your thread like a creeper. You will most likely get done before me though. I still have a rocker to weld up(if you read this and are close and can weld and want to help, by all means) and then paint. The body work and paint are going to take the most time.
On another note. I am probably going to do the 9a manual tensioner. Just from a cost stand point. I just cannot justify the extra coin when I can spend that elsewhere.

[turtledub]

No work was done last night.

[turtledub]

Spent about half an hour in the garage. I pulled the valve cover off the AEB and there was no sludge. This was pretty exciting.

[turtledub]

Valve cover is cleaned up. I am getting ready to paint it. Work on this is much slower than I hoped. I also made an order with IE. While mocking things up I noticed that the AGU manifold is not compatible with the AEB fuel rail. A quick search and I found a transverse rail in the classifieds. Hoping to get all the parts painted by the end of the week.

[sdezego]

Spent about half an hour in the garage. I pulled the valve cover off the AEB and there was no sludge. This was pretty exciting.

While mocking things up I noticed that the AGU manifold is not compatible with the AEB fuel rail. A quick search and I found a transverse rail in the classifieds. Hoping to get all the parts painted by the end of the week.

What injectors are you going to run? The AEB Ev1 style? If so, you are cool with the transverse rail. If you are wanting to run the EV6/12 shorter style, you will need to make modifications to the intake like I did or get creative.

[turtledub]

What injectors are you going to run? The AEB Ev1 style? If so, you are cool with the transverse rail. If you are wanting to run the EV6/12 shorter style, you will need to make modifications to the intake like I did or get creative.

Right now I am keeping the stock AEB ones. This will be running on a stock ecu so I am trying to keep things as close to stock as I can. I want to get it running before I start to add more power by getting the ECU chipped.

[sdezego]

...I want to get it running before I start to add more power by getting the ECU chipped.

Outstanding idea

Did you get the AGU throttle Cable bracket too? I made one, but after I got the mockup set, I am not sure it will clear the hood on the ABA tall block.

[turtledub]

Outstanding idea

Did you get the AGU throttle Cable bracket too? I made one, but after I got the mockup set, I am not sure it will clear the hood on the ABA tall block.

I did get the throttle body cable bracket. I am also a little concerned with the hood clearance because I have a G60 hood.

[turtledub]

Last night I got the intake manifold and the rear motor mount bracket painted. I hope they turned out because I used a wrinkle paint.

[2OVT]

It is a race then!
I have been secretly watching your thread like a creeper. You will most likely get done before me though. I still have a rocker to weld up(if you read this and are close and can weld and want to help, by all means) and then paint. The body work and paint are going to take the most time.
On another note. I am probably going to do the 9a manual tensioner. Just from a cost stand point. I just cannot justify the extra coin when I can spend that elsewhere.

Where are you located? I'd love to help if you're close but odds are you aren't...I'm in Minnesota, where there are hardly any Corrados.

What are you doing for managment, OE or standalone?

oh and just noticed your AEB has 90K on the clock...my AWP has 89,098 exactly

good luck friend, hopefully we can be some use to one another.

ps: take lots of pics

[turtledub]

Where are you located? I'd love to help if you're close but odds are you aren't...I'm in Minnesota, where there are hardly any Corrados.

What are you doing for managment, OE or standalone?

oh and just noticed your AEB has 90K on the clock...my AWP has 89,098 exactly

good luck friend, hopefully we can be some use to one another.

ps: take lots of pics

I am in PA. Last night I did plan to paint the valve cover but it had a crack in it around one of the bolts holes that hold it on. Now I need a new one. Hopefully I can find one soon. Also I hope my Integrated order shows up soon.
Next step is to pull off the oil pan to take a peek. It will be swapped out with a Shrick pan. I am waiting for a new oil pick up tube so I can use the newer pan. I will also pull off the timing belt and check to see if I have a step on or step off head. This will let me know what manual timing belt tensioner to go with.

[turtledub]

Bit of an update. I have the "no step" head. USRT sells the timing kit I will most likely be going with. I also picked up a red powder coated aeb valve cover from a local. It has some weird black charred stuff in two places that I could not clean off with degreaser. Also my IE coil adapters came in the mail since I last updated. I am now getting together a list of gaskets and stuff that I need to order. I recently got wrapped up in the other project so updates may be even slower as if that is possible.

[turtledub]

I checked my email and found that my GAP package has arrived. My order was finalized on Monday morning. What manner of witchcraft do they use to deliver these parts so fast?

[turtledub]

N75 valves arrived arrived.

[turtledub]

Mail man brought me a new crank pulley. Tomorrow is engine assembly day. The goal is to have it running, driving, and down at h2o. The car will not win for best of show though. I will get some pics tomorrow.

[2OVT]

Mail man brought me a new crank pulley. Tomorrow is engine assembly day. The goal is to have it running, driving, and down at h2o. The car will not win for best of show though. I will get some pics tomorrow.

just put my motor in today

[turtledub]

I hope to get that far today.

[turtledub]

Before manifold...


After.


For some reason I had some trouble with the timing.



The insides are clean.

[turtledub]

Anyone chime in about what oil cooler flange to use?

[turtledub]

I found out what flange I need. I also need different turbo exhaust studs. I will have to pick some up on Thursday. Plans for the weekend are to get the engine in the bay and wired. The wiring is what I am not looking forward to. Anyone have a source for good wire connectors for splicing?

[2OVT]

I'm using this-
T6-brown connector
pin 1 -black or black/purple 15 amp fused switched live 15 to ecu T121/3 Y (g1 pin 4, needs fuse)
pin 2 - purple/white ecu T121/65 to fuel pump relay earth Y (g1 pin 3)
pin 4 - red/green 20 amp fused constant positive 30 to ecu T121/62 Y (Y pin 4, needs fuse)
pin 5 - blue/yellow fused 10 amp from fuel pump relay Y (g1 pin 10)

T14a - 14 pin connector near battery
pin 4 -purple coolant temp sensor (214) Y/M (G2 pin 3, requires resistor to read correctly)
pin 5 - red/purple 10 amp fused switched live to injectors (183) Y ( Z1)
pin 6 - yellow/black fused 10 amp from fuel pump relay (fuse shared with T6/6) Y (g2 pin 4)
pin 7 - brown earth (204) (197) Y Earth to chassis or battery -VE (Edit by mat-mk3)
pin 9 - brown/white earth for senders Y (G1 pin 6)

T10W -White connector
pin 4 - white/red ecu T121/39 to clutch pedal switch Y (Clutch pedal switch in car)


10 Orange
pin 1 - grey/white to ecu T121/43 (229) Y ( diagnostics K diag port)
pin 2 - green/red to ecu T121/81 Y (Tach signal from ecu via tach adaptor to G1 pin 12)
pin 6 - blue/white ecu T121/54 to speed signal in dash wiring Y (Hall speed sensor on clocks W pin 1)


T10h Blue
pin 1 - brown/white to brown/blue ecu T121/34 to throttle sender T6b/6 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 2 - green/white to green white ecu T121/72 to throttle sender T6b/1 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 3 - yellow/green to yellow/green ecu T121/73 to throttle sender T6b/2 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 4 - grey/red to grey/red ecu T121/36 to throttle sender T6b/3 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 5 - white/blue to white/blue ecu T121/35 to throttle sender T6b/4 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
pin 6 - grey/blue to grey/blue ecu T121/33 to throttle sender T6b/5 Y (Throttle pedal in car)