You should post that up in this thread...
done, thanks pal, seems like the way to go, I am sure someone will tell me otherwise if we are wrong, hahaha
Sounds like you may be confusing ID and OD
1.8T MAF = 2.75" OD
VR6 MAF = 3" OD
1.8T MAF = 2.5'' ID
VR6 MAF = 2.75'' ID
1.8T MAF with 2.75" OD = 70mm and ID = 60mm.
TT225 MAF housing is 3" or 76mm outside and 70mm inside like the VR6
TT180 MAF is like a regular 1.8T
I have no idea about longitudal motors, I never measured AEB/ATW etc and there is a difference between the sensors for sure.
ahh so the 225 maf and vr maf are the same insinde diameter of 2.75", so really I would need one of those 3" metal maf housings or an S4 housing...the vr and the tt 225 maf are both 2.75...
Last edited by groggory; 05-23-2012 at 05:25 PM.
so are there oem 3" inside diamater MAFs like an s4? I am sure thats not easy to find if so, is my best bet to go with a billet 3" maf housing then? And if the outside diameter is larger then 3" then I will need a reduced coupler like a 3.25"--->3"? or will a straight 3" coupler work still?
What's the ID and OD of your intake plumbing?
There's some confusion going on here.
Currently its 2.75, but sounds like I should run 3 "...
Yea I'm asking him now what he suggests, will let ya know!
Ok, gunna run the vr maf, which is 3" od, coupler and short 3" od pipe to the bpi velocity stack which is also 3"od. Sounds good now?
Last edited by jagt21VR6; 05-23-2012 at 08:48 PM.
Now I have a GT2871 and it has so much torque that it has broken part after part on my car....lol...which is a good thing in my book. Ripped my inner axle hub out while rolling onto an on-ramp hard (thank you LSD for hooking up). Destroyed 2 or 3 engine and transmission mounts (034 street and track density). Destroyed a couple dog bone inserts. Run to the bleeding edge of the APR drop in pump. The car is super crazy fun with this turbo when it's running right.
I can spin the tires in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. I can scare the crap out of any passenger I want. I can pass anyone on the freeway at any time. I can gain too much confidence and lose painfully in races to modded out BMW 6 series (), I can come out of turns with monster speed and rip away.
The 28rs is damn close to the 2871 and the 2871 is super fun.
But yes, it's very torque'y. Don't skip rods, lol. My 2871 loves 28 PSI
Perfect! I have a quaife and bfgoodrich kw2s...but until the rods go in it'll be like 17psi or there abouts...thinking the bpi filter stack is the way to go...
So what kind of motor oil will I want to run now, obviously synthetic, but as this is a daily driver, and is driven in the winter?? Thanks, I know I am going to change the oil and flush the cooling once were done with everything...thinking 5w40 syntheic
Last edited by jagt21VR6; 05-24-2012 at 09:39 AM.
That is what I have been running I just wasnt sure if I should use a different viscocity...mann filter just fine I assume still?
and dude, grog, I just briefly went thru your FAQ, and holy faq theres a lot of info in there! I know what I will be doing throughout the day, thanks for the write ups and all the great info in there!
Last edited by jagt21VR6; 05-24-2012 at 10:03 AM.
I broke my axle on a 30r in 1st gear trying to do a light burnout, didn't even do a 2nd gear burnout. Not the first axle that I broke either, but I am 02J.
Most axles that break on the street happen from wheel hop on lowered vehicles, it's not necessarily power. Spinning tire is your friend until you hop.
I used Castrol 5w40 like they use at the dealer, no ill effects on my motor so far.
I agree. I'm not lowered and my 2871 snapped the passenger side axle somewhere in high 2nd gear. Hard acceleration out the end of a high to low nicely banked, fresh grippy asphalt on-ramp.
ok, so going to make sure of fitment this evening, since my battery is staying, but running vr maf--->3"x5-7"(of course can only by either a 3" coupler or a 1' coupler so I will have to cut the 1' coupler) straight coupler--->velocity stack--->filter
Just ended up getting castrol synthetic 5w40 and a mann filter from ECS...
Also bought that 1' section of 3" silicone, 5 clamps, and a new 6" piece of flex pipe for the exhaust...
Will post pics once it is all in!
Now just gotta order up the bpi stack and filter... I wanna say I am good to go after that, will obviously piece everything together when the time comes and make sure everything works together like it should and is complete
so I decided just to run a normal 3" cone filter off the silicone coming from the maf, doing this initially because I am not moving my battery yet and dont think the bpi velocity stack and hugeee filter will fit...maybe itll rob me of 5-10hp but seeing as how I am not runnign rods yet im not going to be coming close to try and max it out yet so no big deal for me, when the battery goes and the funds are back available maybe then I will go to the velocity stack then just sell this filter...also purchased 2"x50' of thermal heat wrap
now what to do with the intercooler piping...anybody wanna trade me their eurojet or kinetic for my forge setup??
so the 034 hardware all came in, just waiting on the pag and silicone intakes stuff and I am ready to get this biatch started!
well the pag stuff hasnt been shipped yet, waiting on the inline fuel filter I guess,looks like another week and a half of driving a loud broken car...boo
Doing work I believe its pronounced...
Muthafcuk yea, lines will be in early in the week hopefully and getting ecu tuned asap also early this week hopefully
Looking good. Are you tuning with the N75 is that why it's installed?
Also, didn't you buy a DP for this set up? Does it fit with the stock IC piping like that?
What happened to the port on the valve cover for the PCV?
Is this a fuel pressure gauge?
Lastly, do you have a check valve installed between the brake booster and intake manifold?
The downpipe is being modified to fit. It looks like it was only half of the kits original downpipe. When fitting it all up out of the car, it was obvious that making the downpipe that was sent work was going to be just as much work as just fabbing a new one, and doing this way saves from having to make custom intercooler piping.
The VC breather port pulls out of the awp head. It has a collet and secondary 1/4" breather port thats resistance welded to it for the pcv set up. It's currently sitting in my vice waiting to have the collet and breather removed from the actual port, then it will be tapped back in.
Yes, that's an electronic fuel pressure gauge sender.
Of course the brake booster has a check valve. It's right above the brake fluid reservoir.