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    Thread: Crankcase Emission Control Valve Connection to valve cover

    1. Member mtemal's Avatar
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      05-22-2012 04:24 PM #1
      From 90 VW Cabriolet Valve Cover Change



      How is the CECV supposed to stay on the Valve Cover?

      If you look at the picture above, it was jammed into the hole on the valve cover and jbwelded on. Below is why it looks like removed. Is there a proper way to install that thing? I don't want oil spraying all over my engine because of a crap installation job.

      From 90 VW Cabriolet Valve Cover Change

    2. Member CajunSpike's Avatar
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      05-22-2012 04:27 PM #2
      Buy one of these and pop it into the valve cover. The pcv fits into the top of it.

      http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...t/Engine/438/1

    3. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      05-22-2012 04:46 PM #3
      Yes but napa has it locally usually and you don't pay shipping.
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

      Where are my grounds ?
      I am a Commodian. I tell really Crappy jokes.

    4. Member mtemal's Avatar
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      05-22-2012 05:01 PM #4
      Yep, Just called my local napa store and they'll have it first thing in the morning ($6.49).

      http://napaautoparts.com/Catalog/Cat...(P_RecType%3aA)


      I'm doing the valve cover gasket on my girl's 1990 cabriolet and I'm was thinking about changing out the valve cover and just putting a new one on there. I don't see the part on GAP, is there another name for it besides Valve Cover?

    5. Member CajunSpike's Avatar
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      05-22-2012 05:04 PM #5
      check this out.


      http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...t/Engine/102/1

      I like using gap cuz of the pics. Prices ain't bad but sure, get the part where ever you can.

    6. Member mtemal's Avatar
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      05-22-2012 05:19 PM #6
      Thanks cajunspike, but I'm looking for a new Valve Cover. I already have a gasket set, but the current valve cover is rusted and has all those deposits from 20 years of operation caked in it. Im thinking shiny and new is the way to go. Just gotta find it to buy it

    7. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      05-22-2012 05:54 PM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by mtemal View Post
      Thanks cajunspike, but I'm looking for a new Valve Cover. I already have a gasket set, but the current valve cover is rusted and has all those deposits from 20 years of operation caked in it. Im thinking shiny and new is the way to go. Just gotta find it to buy it
      Spray the Valve cover when you have it off with OVEN CLEANER, LET IT WORK OVER NIGHT.
      Then Spray it off with water and brake clean, a quick hit with sandy paper and a coat of paint, good as new.







      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

      Where are my grounds ?
      I am a Commodian. I tell really Crappy jokes.

    8. Member mtemal's Avatar
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      05-23-2012 08:19 PM #8
      I let it sit overnight and washed away whatever sludge was remaining using some dawn. Ran water through the filter until no more oil and dirt was coming through and the water was coming out clear. Dried it off as best as I could with an old shirt then blow dried it before slapping some rustoleaum engine enamel paint on there.. Nice and black, even though thought the color was fire engine red, talk about an unexpected surprise I also picked up the CECV/PCV Grommet from NAPA today.

      Ive got a couple of questions:

      The rustoleaum can says the paint won't fully cure for 7 days. Does that mean that I can't install the valve cover until the 7 days is up?

      When putting it back on, should I put RTV silicone on the head and the valve cover and sandwich the cork gasket in-between the layers of RTV? Below is a link to the RTV that i bought.

      http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=554295_0_0_

      -How do remove the black rail in the picture below to clean all the oil off the throttle body assembly?

      From 90 VW Cabriolet Valve Cover Change


      -Thanks,

      -Mike
      Last edited by mtemal; 05-23-2012 at 08:33 PM.

    9. Member CajunSpike's Avatar
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      05-23-2012 09:00 PM #9
      The black rail is the fuel rail. Its held down by two hex screws along the rail....and its clipped to all 4 injectors and bolted to the fuel pressure regulator.

      Its easy to get off, but very tricky to get back in. If you take it apart, you probably should have an all new set of injector seals and fpr seals to put it back together.

    10. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      05-23-2012 09:05 PM #10
      7 days means that is how long it take to fully dry.... It is usually touch dry in 24.
      No Silly-Cone.
      USe a 1n/lbs wrench to get the nuts at 87 inch pounds and you usually don't have any leaks especially if you get the gasket upgrade from GAP with the new studs.
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

      Where are my grounds ?
      I am a Commodian. I tell really Crappy jokes.

    11. Member mtemal's Avatar
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      05-23-2012 10:23 PM #11
      That sounds like a whole lot of work just to clean some oil off the thing. I think one f those dental suction hoses would work great here with some engine degreaser. I think ill take the easy way out and leave the assembly in. I don't want to create a project that I can't handle.

      Basically you're saying that in order to get that black rail out, ill have to pull the fuel injectors as well?

      Thats all one assembly?

      Is it advisable to pressure wash that area?

      Check out my handy work with the valve cover:

      https://picasaweb.google.com/s/c/tra...background.gif) no-repeat left">
      1990 Cabriolet Painted Valve Cover
      Last edited by mtemal; 05-23-2012 at 10:25 PM.

    12. Member CajunSpike's Avatar
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      05-23-2012 11:27 PM #12
      If you're careful you can pull the rail and leave the injectors. That rail has plastic recesses, one for each injector. Each injector has an o-ring to seal up that recess.

      you would remove the bolts holding the fpr on. remove the fpr.
      remove the bolts holding the rail.
      remove all 4 clips from rail to injectors.
      try, some kind of way, to separate each injector from the rail without pulling the injector from the hole in the head...pssst...its very difficult to do. as you pull the rail back to separate one injector, you're pulling the other 3 out of their head holes. There may be some way to do this, but I don't know it.


      nice clean/paint job..wanna do mine? LOL.....

    13. Member mtemal's Avatar
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      05-24-2012 05:35 PM #13
      Thanks, It took about an hour of prep work before i got her all squeaky clean. I currently need a new timing belt cover (the part that bolts onto the valve cover). Can go ahead and install the gasket and valve cover and when i get the new part, undo the two lots on the valve cover to bolt it on and then tighten things back up? Will this compromise the gasket?

    14. Member CajunSpike's Avatar
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      05-24-2012 06:02 PM #14
      Shouldnt be a problem.

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